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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 10/31/2000
roger
wrote in from
(198.206.nnn.nnn)
Chris,
Nice! Just need to add the drop throughs pattern (truck ways) to the template ;)
Roger
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On 10/31/2000 nick
wrote in from
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awesome cutting/cleaning up edges method Chris, how would you adapt it to cambered and kicked boards, and how did you get the first one(the template) perfect?
Cheers.
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On 10/31/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
Started another one .400 all maple v-lam,single sheet of wood.I was thinking of drilling across the strips of wood to slide in pieces of carbonfibre rod,can only drill through 3 strips of wood at a time,but if i number the strips and trace the shape on the unlaminated wood,so i can put the carbon in where it will do the most good,offsetting the carbon cross links,a couple of surface stingers,and a final fiberglassing(s glass)shouldn't take that long now that i've got things set up.
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On 10/31/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
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Nice job Chris... HR
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On 10/30/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
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Herbn's V-lam:
I have some pix of this new laminated (make that vertically laminated) beauty on the "Herbn's stuff" page on my site...
Also a pretty good lookin older deck too... Off the NCDSA links page... HR
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On 10/30/2000 Phil
wrote in from
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I've been experimenting with some new compisites. I had some kevlar left over from a surfboard I glassed, and I wanted to try it on a skateboard. I c-clamped two plys of birch to a pre-made mold to set my kicktale and concave. I then laminated two layers of 5.6 ounce kevlar between the plys, and put 4 ounce fiberglass over the entire board. The kevlar has very little compression and expansion, so it stiffened the board up perfectly. The board came out incredibly light, thin, with the perfect amount of flex, and is extremely durable. It's one of the sickest board I've ever ridden, am I'm now making some for my friends. Kevlar and Carbon fiber are both incredible materials if you get a chance to work with them. Both my surfboards and skateboards have come out excellent when I've used these composites.
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On 10/30/2000 nick
wrote in from
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I,ve been doing a bit of research into wood. While not much use to me down here, I reckon some of you guys in the U.S should look into using hickory. Its properties are better than maple and it grows in Canada. They make ply and veneer from it. I know at least one company use it. Worth some thought.
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On 10/30/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
My friend Art paced me down a fairly good hill in vernon at 48mph ,so he says.I've been clocked there,just over 40 by someone else,but that was on Aluminators with Speedemons,the fast ride was on cherry Cherrybombs and my Ceramic Swiss,another difference was ,the fast run was on Randal Speedtrucks, the first time was on R2's that were sketchy loose for that kind of speed.Oh yeah this was on my triple fiber,four wood composite homemade with extra straight truck placement.Most of the stability at speed comes out of the trucks,on Randal Speeds,pay attention to staying steady during the push off,they don't steer that quick,and if you loose your balence you could end up running next to then behind your board as it does the hill scrubbing the curb, without you!!:)
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On 10/29/2000
Chris
wrote in from
(195.92.nnn.nnn)
Longboarders in the UK check out www.lushlongboards.com.
Best Reef Girl page on the net!
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On 10/27/2000 Adam
wrote in from
(63.192.nnn.nnn)
Here's an image of the 48"x12" Wide Load decks I produced in very limited numbers a couple of years back. I've been promising to post a pic for too long now, so here one is. This deck is 3/4" 12-ply baltic birch. It currently has eXkate red trucks but it also runs well with Seismics.
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On 10/27/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
My V-lam composite ,Well i redrilled the front truck,the nose dragged while walking it up,i drill a towing hole in the tail,that extra 3/4 inch of wheelbase did something else,just a little bit more flex,it doesn't feel tall anymore,all the springy aspects of the board are a little bit more noticable,its still a stiffly sprung speed board.It adds a bit more clearence for turning,but i'm still gonna have to carve deeper for good Cherry Bomb clearence,i reset the trucks,and bored out to use M6 hardware M6!!! thats real bolts,the locknuts are 10mm which is only a hair bigger than normal,i may shave in clearence notches for a socket wrench,but for now only wheelwells and refinnishing in that area.The first pics came out dark,i'll take new ones soon.
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On 10/26/2000
Kaylee
wrote in from
(65.0.nnn.nnn)
REMOVE THEM FROM THE PLANET: sounds like that inline board has a slogan now. Remember when Thrasher did a joke article on futuristic boards ten years ago? They had a hover board and an inline board, among others. The hover board was on the cover. So, it has been thought of, and I've seen those egg shape ones. Looks like a high speed death trap to me.
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On 10/26/2000 Nick
wrote in from
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Remove them from the planet alright. Anything using the word "phat" is pretty suss, but why oh why must they always say "just like riding a surf or snowboard". No matter what sort of wheels these people put on their toys, it will remain impossible to bury a rail into solid concrete.
Well I,ve met a guy with a veneer sliceing machine, so at last I should be able to get hold of some decent materials.
Well a guy who is generally interested in helping anyway, the first guys with a machine didn,t want to know me once I mentioned that I wanted to make some skateboards because they are making boards for a local shop, so don,t want to help anyone else. Oh well, the jokes on them ,cause their using poplar and pva and actually believe their boards have better pop than maple ones. Had they have wanted to help me I would have given them some advice on materials etc.
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On 10/26/2000 Mitch T
wrote in from
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Remove them from the planet? Seeing that the skateboard came from putting some quad wheels on a board, dont you think it would could possibly evolve to inline skateboarding? This really looks like something futuristic, I wonder why it was never done before or if it was why it didn't work? Maybe you could take one of these skooter setups and mount it on a board and carve a hill with it? You could even do a low center of gravity thing with it a la chaput. I saw some other setup online, and chaput was all over the site endorsing this truck add on, that let you put a bunch of inline wheels on a regular skateboard truck. Does this thing work?
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On 10/26/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
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Remove them,from the planet.
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On 10/26/2000 Mitch T
wrote in from
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Has anyone tried the PHAT board http://www.phatagent.com/index.html. It looks like two inline frames with wheels, mounted one behind the other straight down the middle of a regular deck. I just ordered a new blank board and I'm tempted to try this, although inline frames are probaly expensive, I wonder if I could remove the ones on my Rollerblades.
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On 10/25/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
Just assembled the nicest board i've made so far. Scary to take measurements,what if i screwed up?me mr know it all:)well cross measuring is the most accurate, on a board with Aluminators you can hook the tape measurer under the lip of the wheel and measure over to the opposite wheel on the other end of the board,any error in truck angle will be magnified,one measurement will get longer while the other gets shorter so that doubles the error and i think there's some other geometric functions that magnify the inaccuracy even more,Well 33 and 9/32 both sides Yeah!,thats half way to the next 1/16 after 33 1/4.Martin at Motherlode was right, that i should just ride my own "creations",but he was probabely just negativly refering to my terminator/robot like Stroker board(i guess) which might be considered ugly by a pretty board purist,but this new board ,while not quite as glossy as a M.L. has two layers of vertcal lamination, three forms of fiber;S-glass top and bottom Kevlar in the middle,and 1/16 carbon rod stingers on both sides of the V-lam sheets with one set of carbon rods going cross grain,and the holes are straight.
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On 10/25/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
V-lam,short for vertical lamination,interupts the wood with glue seams,which if done correctly usually are stronger than the wood,this reduces the possibility of a corner of a board breaking off or the board splitting in two. Vertical laminations are livier than horizontal plys,because even though the glue seams in a horizontal lamination are also stronger than the wood they sag more."stronger than wood"may be kind of misleading,it usually refers to the fact that the wood will break before the glue,what this could mean in reality is that the glue doesn't let go ,it just flexes more than the wood so the wood spliters/breaks before the glue,interesting twist in language. There is another twist here,wood itself can be vertical grained,i was re-reading the discription of sitka spruce,in my" aircraft spruce"supply catalog,and sitka spruce is already vertical grained with minimal runout(when the grain goes off the side of the piece of wood)this point of runout is a weak spot,a crack can start there more easily.How is some wood vertical grained and most isn't?Well i'll guess that when a tree is cut into lumber the top and bottom planks are horizontal grain while the middle is vertical,imagine looking at the log,like you where counting the rings the planks in the middle/widest part of the log,have the rings running through them vertically.One nice advantage to V-lam maybe in fine tuning the wood thickness,horizontal ply construction is quite adjustable,but if you're thinking ,just use solid lumber and glass it,you'll find that solid lumber may only be available in quarter inch incriments,while i could cut strips to .458 thickness ,shim out my clamp to that thickness and glue the strips into a sheet of wood .458 thick.
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On 10/24/2000
Evo
wrote in from
(63.206.nnn.nnn)
Hugh,
I'm still around. I am very pleased that you liked the deck. I should be at the West LA event on Sun (wife permitting). Look forward to meeting you if you can make it. I'll bring some other setups as well. Although, they are not as nice as the K-Alva.
Evo
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On 10/24/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
This weekend I was able to check out one of the finest "homemade" decks I have seen to date. It was an "Alva Tribute"... aprox 31" x 10" and just perfect. It was built by Roger K.
So Roger, if your still out there, shoot me an e-mail... I've got to have one!!! HR
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On 10/23/2000 just curious
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
what is v-lam and why is it so good? when would you want to use it? any drawbacks?
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On 10/22/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
Wow!! my v-lam is now a skatedeck.Very nice,awesome (pat pat, my own back:)I'll be sending Hugh some pics soon.All those different woods,black carbon stingers, yellow kevlar middle,glossy epoxy,wow!A light recoat along with the carbon spikes i'm planning,should fill a couple of slight blemishes,but i'm totally liking the feeling of making something this tech in a new medium,i usually do machining,and while its cool stuff,i'm used to it working,this board was a new type of production,a few more, and a concave mold may be next.Though i like flat boards(i have a concave pintail)maybe just a little cambermold for my flexier boards.
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On 10/21/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
Well the v-lam went in the press today 320 grams of epoxy 250 grams resin:68 grams hardener,just right for 2 surface layers of S glass ,a Kevlar middle and a little glass filler for a sandin error(also in the middle)i'm psyched!It should be interesting,S glass,Kevlar, and Carbon rod in one two layer vertical lamination.After cleaning and trimming and sanding ,i've figured out a bit of a assurace feature,i'm gonna drill .072 holes through the edges of the board and radially into the edges,and "nail" the board together with little spikes of carbon fiber,epoxied in place. A thin final coat and its done finally.
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On 10/20/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
I have posted some pics of a deck made by a very young man from Switzerland, Patrick D. on my site. Off of the NCDSA links page... HR
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