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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 11/15/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
DanG, 5 ply birch is probably not your best choice for a deck. Birch really isn't that strong (unless you use lots of plys) If you must use birch, try to find some 9 or 13 ply stuff.
Oak will work well for longboards as long as it's thick enough. I would suggest using 3/4" if you can find it.
There are several ways you can reinforce the board using splines. The VMG boards use a below deck spline. I have made and experimental oak board with an above the deck spline that handles the heavy weight big guys very well (250+ lbs) You can see it on my site off of the NCDSA links page... Rooney's exp board...
Hope this helps... HR
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On 11/15/2000
DanG
wrote in from
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Hi, I’ve been trying to build decks out of a sheet of 5 ply birch and now after the third one broke I need some help. The first deck wasn’t reinforced at all and cracked in half. The second one had a piece of ½” X 2” oak on the bottom and still cracked. The third had two pieces of ¾” angle iron running the whole length with the trucks sitting on the flat parts of the angle iron. When I had to carry it up hill it felt like it weighed near 20 pounds by the time I got to the top. I don’t wan to to put another 10 hours into a deck only to have it break. So, getting that out of the way here are my questions: I read on a web site (Australian?) that you could make 50+ inch boards using just oak. Is it possible to do this and not have them crack? Can you put fiberglass over a deck that was SparUrathaned if you use epoxy? Are there any other ways I can keep a 48” deck from cracking other than glassing it? Thanks any answers would be very helpful cause I wanna get back out and longboard.
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On 11/14/2000 shnitzel
wrote in from
(24.65.nnn.nnn)
hey kevin,
is the bottom plane on the hand painted skateboard the Spruce Goose? saw the wonderfull water plane on a trip to the sunny lands many years ago......
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On 11/14/2000
Kevin
wrote in from
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My friend actually recently bought a Powell MiniLogo and I helped her sand the bottom slick off. However she painted a design with acrylics and put a layer of shellac over it. I have pics in the gallery at http://bigskateboards.tripod.com . Thought you might be interested as this is a viable option for the artistically inclined.. as long as you don't have to do more than one. Hehe.
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On 11/14/2000
Mitch T
wrote in from
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There is a picture on the abcboards site of how they do their screen printing. http://www.abcboards.com/. I just purchased a powell blank mini logo and was thinking of screen printing my own design on it. The board comes with some special slippery coating underneath so I decided to leave it as is.
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On 11/13/2000 shnitzel
wrote in from
(24.65.nnn.nnn)
screen the bottom ply before you press it. this way it's flat and easily screened!
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On 11/13/2000
ketil selnes
wrote in from
(193.61.nnn.nnn)
I'm a 26 year old Norwegian guy studying illustration in Falmouth, England, and I've been trying for quite some time to figure out how to screenprint graphics onto skateboards. I did some basic screenprinting last year, but can't find information anywhere on how to screenprint the board, as it is curved. If someone knows what the screen looks like, how it is built and what kind of paint to use, I'd be extremely grateful as this has been wreckin' my head for the last few months. Thanks.
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On 11/13/2000
tropicalian
wrote in from
(150.131.nnn.nnn)
k2000...heres a board like you described. looks sorta weird though, i think the board angles might cancel out the truck angles so you wouldn't be able to turn worth beans.
http://www.latterdayskates.com/sunbeam.html
anyone have any ideas here?
this board kind of makes me laugh
*jays
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On 11/11/2000
k2000
wrote in from
(208.30.nnn.nnn)
has anyone taken a new school blank and mounted the trucks on the nose and tail (giving a somewhat lowered cg deck)?
enkwiring minds want to know
k
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On 11/10/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
If you mold the beams in,bevel them and cover them with glass ,handles,whatever,i routed/sanded grabs into a board,that i vacuum bagged a while ago.All thats cool,i was look'in at my Aircraft Spruce cataloge,i'm gonna try some S2 unidirectional glass on my new external carbon rod deck.I was day dreaming,a V-lam topsheet,with a foam lower sheet thats cut away for trucks,low c.g. and no possible softening,and bevel the foam on the edges(no impact)and vacuum bag carbon and glass over that.ahhhzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
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On 11/9/2000 Pre-School Rider
wrote in from
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Herbn,how about doing an internally set 'beam',ala Zephyr boards?I always liked the look and having a grab rail for down-low moves was cool too.Since you're playing with vertical lams,I would think that varying the depth of the stringers wouldn't be too hard,then just wrap 'em in glass.
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On 11/9/2000
roger
wrote in from
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Hey Herbn,
Would really like to see some pict of the rest of your creations (Stroker board, trucks, etc). They sound very cool.
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On 11/9/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Tnaylor,
Check my site off of the links page... look at "Rooney's exp board" It has a top deck aluminium spline and drop thru R-II's... HR
also look at the VMG decks... they use an under deck aluminum spline with good results.
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On 11/9/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
I find beamers kind of ugly,sort of patched together,my Stroker board has sort of a beamer arrangement,milled 7000 series aluminum that are actually shaped to lower the ride,i have interlocking crossbeams, kind of like a airplane wing. Most of the strength is in the frame,1/4 inch birch covers the middle of the frame just for standing surface.
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On 11/8/2000 Pre-School Rider
wrote in from
(209.198.nnn.nnn)
I helped my friend Mac (He's 12,but rips!Stylish Colemans!) out with this old K-2 Dart snowboard re-shaping project.The thing flexed Way Too much,so down to the local hardware store we go. We picked up these door trim pieces,about 1-1/4" wide by 1/2" deep and some forty inches long.Bolted right on,stiffened it up enough for his 90 lbs.,and gave him Rails to hang onto while pulling slides.The board(even tho I can't ride it)came out pretty sweet,kinda looking like a wider late 70's Ick Stick Swallow tail.
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On 11/8/2000 Tnaylor
wrote in from
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Anyone experimenting with running beams down the middle of their boards like old Powell beamers? I tried this years back with a birch ply and glass freestyle deck I made. Ran a 1/4" ply beam down the middle of a 5/16" birch and glass deck. Held up like a trooper until it got ran over. This could work well for long boards and perhaps add torsional rigidity.
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On 11/6/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
I'm gonna try to use a rubber mat in my mold to laminate a second layer of glass over some carbon rods i just taped and crazy glued on my new too flexy all maple v-lam(removing tape before epoxying)If you use a laminating box, solid sides,you should be able to use anything airtight,it doesn't really matter if you inflate more air,or reduce the size of the container,theoretically a balloon or inflatable clown punching bag:) should work as long as the "bladder" isn't pinched and well supported during the compression,those are big ifs,and you should think things out real careful and definitely over build because it's only gonna blow up in your own face if you screw up.
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On 11/6/2000
jon
wrote in from
(203.97.nnn.nnn)
Gidday ,Ive been putting boards together for awhile now and have now developed the perfect press for the lamination process. I have welded up two boxes using angle iron. The boxes are about 400mm by 1200mm. into these boxes i can insert the mould of my choice . I have been using pine in much the same way as Chis c has in his design sketches. Using the male and female moulds inside the two boxes i can cut rectangular bits of ply that fit exactly inside without having to worry about alignment. Once the layers have been glued up and are inside i clamp the two boxes together. I have welded twelve rods ( threaded M12 )around the bottom box and guides on the top half.Using nuts on the rods I can then really crank the top and bottom moulds together giving primo join with no gaps. I then apply layers of glass. The good thing about the box setup is the solid join and the fact that i can change moulds depending on the design needed. The only problem is getting the wood maple is near impossible to come by in New Zealand and importing it just makes it to expensive for broke enginerring student like myself. i would be stoked to hear any comment or improvements.
soulcarving kiwi
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On 11/5/2000 Nick
wrote in from
(203.96.nnn.nnn)
Awhile back, I think it was Rodger or Tony talked about using a sandbag for the top half of the mould, and using a concrete block to push it all down. I,ve been giving the idea some thought lately, perhaps using a thin layer of 3ply between the bag and the blank. I,d be interested in hearing some other peoples opinions on this method. Do you think it would work for laminating veneer, or adding composite layers, or both?
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On 11/3/2000
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
Roger, That's a good point. Since one end of the hole is round, I was going to drill it with a conventional bit, but I don't want to spend time changing bits now. I've been trying to avoid buying a third router but it's probably going to be the cleanest and fastest way once the template and collar are set up. So much of woodworking is a 5 minute setup for a 5 second cut that I want to keep all these little time wasters to a minimum. In the long run, time is the most precious resource and my wife and daughter deserve as much as I can give them.
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On 11/2/2000 roger
wrote in from
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Chris,
Round is stronger than square, so I am not sure of any advantages removing extra material by using a mortising bit for the drop through truck ways. The square corners created by mortising will focus strain and provide a starting point for cracks - like a notch used to open up a ketchup packet.
just my $.02
Roger
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On 11/2/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
I've been layin the board,sections at a time ,on a little space heater and it's cured up nicely.Another layer of glass and it'll rule,as a flexboard.
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On 11/2/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
Well it's cut and glassed,and it's i think it's to flexy,sanding off the surface glue took more wood off than i thought it would,the core went down to .370-.380 from .400, i think it's colder in my basement than it was for the last board the resin doesn't seem to set as well,i got the mix perfectfor sure.I think i'm gonna put another layer of glass on but i'm out of glass so it may takea while, this board is real light,i thought maple would be heavier,anybody know what's involved in lamiating aluminum skins?
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On 11/2/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
I just did the final gluing of the core ,on my no frills V-lam;all hard maple,fiberglass top and bottom ,no carbon.Interesting, gluing tip,i put the strips in with glue(tite bond 2) and tightened them up,a couple hours later they were dry but the clamps were loose(shrinkage),a few seams were rather poorly bonded and popped easy enough,easy enough ,reglue fewer seams=less shrinkage,it may be a good idea to hangout for a while and snug the bolts as the glue contracts or soaks in,whatever may be the case.
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On 11/1/2000
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
I got the "first one" (the template) done by making a "half template" out of 1/8" masonite and tracing it on each side of a centerline that was made on a rectangular piece that had perfectly aligned mounting holes. I cut the rough shape out with a bandsaw and then use an oscillating spindle/belt sander to shape down to the pencil line. I place the half template back on the centerline and "feel" for any deviations that may need a touch more sanding.
When you have a concave deck you use a double-thick concave template and raise the bit so that the bearing has a edge to ride on while holding the deck flat on the table. I haven't done camber yet but I think the same principle would work as long as it's not a Super Bow.
The drop through cutout can be done with a router, Roto-Zip, drill and sabre saw but I'm going see if there is a mortising bit that is the right width. That way I could use a fence on my drill press when the stock is still square. Several ways to skin a cat.
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