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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 11/28/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
Balsa wood is speced at 10 lbs per cubic ft,Aircraft spruce has "last a foam",which is a brand of polyurithane foam listed as dense as 18 lbs per cubic ft,(still pretty light)second densest is a 8lb foam, or Divinycell PVC,very expensive and only 25x28 x1/4=129.00, if you could splice it,a questionable practice,it would still be major bucks. Does anybody know what density "clark foam" is? Last-a- foam is yellow,the divinycell is blue.
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On 11/27/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
its been said, that the greatest increase in strength is from the first layer of glass, after that it's a case of deminishing returns,well not exactly,thats just the case for sheer strength.Thicken the core,one or two glass layers,and you have a stronger,efficient structure,especially if the core is a light material. Then again there are other reasons to add glass,impact resistance for one.A thick core glassed over may just make a board that has rigidity and weight,especially if you use a not all that light(compared to foam) birch core, a thinner core with more layers of glass could produce a tougher flexible board.
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On 11/25/2000 Pre-School Rider
wrote in from
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Nick,choose the wood(both type and thickness)you use more carefully,and little mishaps like snapping a board won't occur as much.One way to think of the problem is to realize that a longer board has more leverage(and more weight) when you ollie it,so it requires more deck strength(which is more material/weight) to handle the loads you'll impose on it.Birch flexes smoothly,but doesn't have the fiber strength that Hickory or Maple has.In glass/wood laminates,you want the deck to be 'over-rated' in relation to your weight(that is-You weigh 150lbs,the board can 'handle' 170lbs.)if you want it to survive ollies.Make your board stronger than you think it needs to be,then figure out how to lighten it.
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On 11/25/2000 dwake
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
ya I tried that kinda of stuff on my poplar boards and they cracked. bonelesses and ollies I guess are reserved for maple
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On 11/24/2000 Nick
wrote in from
(203.96.nnn.nnn)
Snapped my latest homemade,a 3/4 inch maple 42 inch board today doing a backside bonless. It was a nice looker too that I,d promiced to this girl, but just couldn,t resist taking it for a ride. Man, if only I hadn,t gripped it. Lately I,ve become a bit obsessed with going for flight on my longboards. I,m beginning to think it might be best to leave the longer boards on the ground, but I do like to do as much as I can on the one board. Does anyone regularly leave the ground on there homemades over the 40 inch range? The problem seems to be that on a short board you can land with your feet centered over the trucks, but once your up to about 38inch this becomes tricky. I,ve heard of guys even snapping sector9 & gravity boards so maybey longer boards are best left for speed and carving? If I make them any thicker than 3/4 inch they,ll way a bloody ton and won,t fly anyway.
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On 11/23/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Paul D,
A carbon fiber spline would be very interesting to experiment with. Hard to say how well it would end up working, but it would be worth the time to find out. If you ever end up with an "extra" one just lying around... give me a holler! HR
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On 11/22/2000 Paul d.
wrote in from
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Speaking of splines and cambers.My brother (who has never skated more then 300 yards his hole life can push off and carve like no nonskater I've ever seen) told me about the leaf springs on his GM van which he thinks are carbon fiber.If this is so they could have some use to board builders. Does anyone have any input on this idea. I think the carbon spings might be used here (Dorval) because of the winter rusting.
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On 11/22/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
In need,
I am not sure what "bog" plywood is. But if it is standard plywood, it's probably not your best choice. Not really that strong in my experience.
But if you MUST use it, then I would suggest multiple layers of fiberglass for some added strength.
Truck placement should be decided by several factors...
Personal prefrence... required wheelbase... type of riding to be done... amount of flex you want from the deck.
Hope that helps some... HR
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On 11/22/2000
in need of something to ride
wrote in from
(195.92.nnn.nnn)
Ok, no joke, I am way out of touch, but have to ask, as it seems you lot are definately schooled up on making boards.
I have some 3/8-1/2 ply (bog standard) knocking about. How good is this for making a long board? I take it some type of hardwood ply like Birch is the way to go, but as it is just sitting there so seems a shame to just chuck it...
Are the trucks better way up on the nose/tail, or is it better to just scale up a shortboard, in terms of truck placement?
any thoughts?
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On 11/21/2000
Gregor
wrote in from
(203.97.nnn.nnn)
Hey
I have been constructing longboards for some time
and I have finally began to make them pretty professionally
I prefer the traditional longboard style
with a wide nose for hangin 5 and and nise width until tail.
Full length grip in various styles with my signature
of CHOO CROOZA somewhere incorporated.
And this is just with 17.5mm cross marine ply.
These have a length of 1300 mm.
GO HARDS LONGBOADERS >>CHOOOEEEE
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On 11/20/2000
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
EvanS, Try a 15mm 11 ply Baltic Birch or optionally an 18mm version if you want to go longer or have a stiffer deck. You might be able to get a 60" x 60" sheet (6 decks) for a reasonable price fom the following company. Good Luck.
http://www.northamply.com/about.htm
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On 11/20/2000
EvanS
wrote in from
(4.48.nnn.nnn)
Hey I'm looking to talk to Herbn. Herbn, I was reading about bearings, and I had seen that you mentioned Harriman State Park. I was wondering if it was the same park that I went to to go longboarding in NY. It is near the Jersey boarder in the Bear Mountain area. Is that the same place you longboard? If it is I have some good stories and questions...
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On 11/20/2000
EvanS
wrote in from
(4.48.nnn.nnn)
Sorry, I forgot one important thing on my previous statment... I do not want the board to have any kind of spline or torsion bar, or any kind of reinforcing bar down the middle... thanks again...
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On 11/20/2000
EvanS
wrote in from
(4.48.nnn.nnn)
Alright, I looking for advice on making my own longboard decks. My friend, DanG has written some previous statements on his boards of 5 ply birch that all cracked and now he is determined to make this moster of a board that has a spline or torsion bar down it. It highly disagree with this. What I'm looking to mke is a longboard, preferably in the high 40's (inches) that has lots of flex but won't crack or break. What I was thinking about doing was going to the cabinet makers store and getting some type of wood (maple?, birch?, oak?) with many plys (11 to 14). I know that the more plys I have the more flex I have, but it is probobaly not practicle to make a 48" longboard of thin cabinet wood. If I glass the board how much stifffer will it become and how many layers a glass should i but on it. I know this is a broad question, but could someone just give me an example. So to top it off again.... I'm lloking how to make high 40's (inches) board, medium thickness many plyed wood that is glassed. Any suggestoions would be appreciated. Thanks...
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On 11/19/2000 Pre-School Rider
wrote in from
(209.198.nnn.nnn)
Nev,you can remove 3/8" of riser and get pretty close to the same wheel clearance out of the R-2 as compared to the Indy.Randals are taller,but lean more.Got wheel wells?If so,lower 'em even more.Wedged pads are a matter of preference,but the R-2 does out turn the Indy,so try going without any.Going with an angle steeper than the standard Tracker Wedge is likely going to be overkill.Ride 'em,then figure it out for yourself,ride what works for you.
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On 11/19/2000 nev
wrote in from
(12.72.nnn.nnn)
well ive just got some R-II's and as ive allways run indy trux am wondering if the angled riser pads can be done away with?
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On 11/18/2000 Glen
wrote in from
(216.102.nnn.nnn)
Herbn,
go to a boating store like West Marine and get some West System Epoxy. It works really well. Don't get their special finishing hardner though, it kinda sucks. I use the 105 Resin and 205 Fast Hardener. You'll also want the pumps that geive you a measured amount. It's really easy to work with.
You'll also find that you use 1/4 the amount of this epoxy as you would for Poly.
It's also very safe and may not require HAZ/MAT handling.
http://www.shopmaninc.com/
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On 11/18/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
Well i'm buying materials,ran out of glass on the board with external(as opposed to inlaid) carbon rod. I'm gonna lay over a sheet of S2 unidirectional glass over the carbon rods ,then a regular woven glass layer.I'm not sure if i should buy aeroepoxy mailorder again the "hazardous material shipping surcharge killed it last time ,if i could find a store in Jersey that has that kind of stuff,hell if they got the glue they may have all the supplies. If i buy the gallon kit maybe the surcharge will still be the same,so it won't be so bad,by the way next up a foam/glass, or chambered v-lam.
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On 11/17/2000 shnitzel
wrote in from
(24.65.nnn.nnn)
if your looking for info on building long boards you've probably come to the right place! start scrolling through the archives and you'll find plenty of what you're looking for!
cheers!
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On 11/17/2000
johan
wrote in from
(213.116.nnn.nnn)
I like to know where to start when i want to build a long board. which wood .thickness. flex.etc.
what kind of gleu. i am from holland where we dont have a rich culture of longboarders or boards.
many thanks for whatever information.
johan
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On 11/16/2000
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
DanG, Many manufacturers are having a difficult time finding single maple plys for their molded decks and so they are gluing up three or four sheets of thin birch laminates instead. I don't know how thick your 5-ply sheets are but I think it may be your best bet if it ends up 3/4" or less. Good luck!
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On 11/16/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
Multiply,If you had 3/4 inch wood,entirely birch,and it was 3 ply, two thirds of the wood runs lengthwise.If you had 5 plys then there would be 2 crossplys 3/5 of the wood runs lengthwise,this may be to subtle of a fraction difference for those of you who have forgotten about cross multipling fractions,so lets jump to 15 ply,8 lengthwise 7 cross the ratio is almost even (1:1)this makes it flexier lengthwise,as you use the wood in a skateboard,the plus side, mostly for planes is that the wood is equally strong in all directions,remember this is "aircraft plywood",not skateboard plywood.Since "glue is stronger than wood" (reference to previous post which no one does,like with wedgepads)thinnerplys may be a little less likely to chip,if glue were really stronger than wood,v-lam would be weaker than plywood construction.
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On 11/15/2000 Pre-School Rider
wrote in from
(209.198.nnn.nnn)
DanG,if you want to use the #10-24 hardware,try threading a T-nut up the bolt to the head,thus creating a wider 'head' on the bolt.Stainless steel counter-sink washers might also work.As for board spines,try aluminum box(not angle)pieces,but don't go too big in size.3/4" square x 24" would tighten up a flexy piece of wood nicely,although Herbn would still consider that a cobbed-together approach.Pick your wood carefully to get what you want out of it.
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On 11/15/2000
DanG
wrote in from
(151.198.nnn.nnn)
Thanks hugh, I was going to go the spline route on my second board but my dad said it wouldn't work. Well he said two pieces of 3/4" angle iron would flex plenty for a longboard and they didn't. So I'm ready to listen to some one who has made boards before. I'll probably go with the 3/4 oak, not glassed, and if I need less flex I'll just put in a spline. That way I don't have to deal with reglssing the board when I crash.
One last question. I drilled out mounting holes on my trucks so I could use them on my street luge (grade 8 bolts)and now I can't use normal 10 24 bolts. I countersunk the grade 8 bolts and washers into the decks of my first two boards which cracked where the bolt holes were. Any ideas on mounting hardware? I'm thinking about using elevator bolts.
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On 11/15/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
rE dang, "5ply birch" is hardly a good enough discription of the wood you're using.You may not have enough information ,it may not be totally birch internal plys they might be partical board or poplar,low grade pine,do you know for sure?The number of plys should not make that big of a strength difference 5 1/8 inch layers of hard rock maple or top grade birch should make a pretty strong board.
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