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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 11/11/1999
aftermath
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
after my poplar hardwood deck cracked, and after i cried for a week, i got a piece of 3/4" 7ply birch. i cut it into a 48"x10" fish-shaped board. what i'm worried about is: around the back truck the board tapers to about 6" around the truck mount. do i need to strengthen this? and if so, how?
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On 11/7/1999
aftermath
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
be careful about poplar...if y'r going to be riding aggressively, like i have, they have a tendency to develop stress cracks along the grain.
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On 11/6/1999
Omar
wrote in from
(63.27.nnn.nnn)
I CAN'T TELL YOU EXACTLY RIGHT NOW BUT I'M TRYING TO MAKE A DEAL WITH A CABINET SHOP TO BEND SOME BOARDS FOR ME AFTER I SHAPE THEM BECAUSE THEY HAVE THE EQUIPMENT. I CAN'T GAURANTEE IT RIGHT NOW BUT MOST LIKELY YES. I'LL POST IT AS SOON AS I KNOW.
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On 11/5/1999
Lonecore
wrote in from
(212.243.nnn.nnn)
Hey guys,
thanks to all the guys (and girls) who wrote me that I forgot to post the adress of my site:
http://beam.to/lonecore
If your interested in building your own longboard, you should visit my page. I decide to share my
experiences I've made while building mine.
Greetings,
Lonecore
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On 11/4/1999
Chris
wrote in from
(167.208.nnn.nnn)
Omar, Can you bend a camber into a board, or bend kicktials?
Chris
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On 11/4/1999
OMAR
wrote in from
(63.27.nnn.nnn)
I MAKE CUSTOM HOMEMADE LONGBOARDS IN SAN DIEGO IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED I CAN MAKE YOU A BOARD TO YOUR SPECIFICATIONS. THEY COME OUT CHEAPER THAN A BIG COMPANY BOARD, BUT THEY ARE STILL GOOD. IF YOUR INTERESTED E-MAIL ME.
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On 11/4/1999 alohaspicoli
wrote in from
(204.244.nnn.nnn)
big companies silk screen their graphics on...
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On 11/3/1999 ENKI
wrote in from
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JST FEW IDEAS FROM FRANCE.
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On 11/2/1999
Mary-Ann
wrote in from
(194.168.nnn.nnn)
And another thing: how do the big companies put the graphics on the bottom of their boards?
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On 11/2/1999
Mary-Ann
wrote in from
(194.168.nnn.nnn)
Hi, I'm in the UK and I'm building a longboard for my final year of high school project.
I've set up a survey at www.gurlpages.com/experiment/skatebird/ about building longboards; there will be more and better questions there soon and the rest of the site might actually have some content but at the moment any responses will be useful!
Also, does anyone have a link to a site where it tells you about the properties of different woods? Aircraft-spruce.com is good but is there any others? Mind you, the british importers for that company are in the next town to me so I should probably go and see them.
And finally, does anyone have any tips for making forms for a deck with a double concave?
Thanks
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On 10/31/1999
aftermath
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
my board aided me terrifically tonight transporting me house-to-house tonight as i was trick-or-treating...as an escaped mentally ill ward of the state. i sure am glad i made it.
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On 10/29/1999
jimi
wrote in from
(203.109.nnn.nnn)
i'm making another longboard and i want to know exactly how to warp the end into a kicktail. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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On 10/29/1999
steve
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
The mysterious non-rectangle parallelogram seems to be a result of REALLY poor machining. I'm still kinda mad, but I just realized that, once I finally collect it, roll it, and organize it, I have enough change in my house to buy a set of trucks. So all is well, unless I get a parking ticket or a jaywalking citation. Then I'll have to go pick a lot more pennies off of the ground.
steve
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On 10/28/1999 Pre School Rider/Steves trucking woes
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
No,the hole patterns for ANY truck (Well,Excepting Chicago and Freeformer 70's vintage stuff) are based on a Rectangle,not a random Quadangle that your Indy baseplates have.The dimensions for the rectanglar hole pattern used now is 1-5/8" wide by 2-1/4" long.If your Indy truck are prior to 1993 model year,they will use a 1-5/8" by 2-1/2" hole pattern.Many trucks are made with both patterns in the baseplates(That's six holes per base)so that interchangability is ensured from board to board.Use the first set of dimensions,as any new truck will mount to it.
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On 10/28/1999
steve
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
My fir board with walnut stringers is now a plank. It doesn't sag/flex at all, unlike what all the naysayers said. Of course, I couldn't actual try it with trucks and wheels because I am poor. I just put little blocks where the trucks would go. I really really wish I could just buy the stupid trucks so that I could put them on. I can wait a few months to save up for wheels and bearings. I can borrow wheels and bearings that are the same size as the ones I want. BUT I CAN'T DRILL THE TRUCK HOLES AND FINISH MY BOARD BECAUSE I, AND NOBODY I KNOW, HAS RANDAL TRUCKS WITH WHICH I CAN DRILL THE HOLES!!! My independents that I ride right now are useless because the holes for the screws aren't aligned. Are the holes supposed to be crooked? (by crooked, I mean that on the left side they are all farther back than on the right, not that the front to back lines of holes aren't straight. Those are.) Are the holes for the randals crooked as well??? Grrr... I wish I could borrow a set...
steve
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On 10/28/1999 Big Lebowski
wrote in from
(207.194.nnn.nnn)
Herbn...Damn straight it doesn't bottom out. I can stand right on the middle and there's no flex...ah...
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On 10/28/1999 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
7 ply maple with 230 lbs standing on it, 46" long and it doesn't flex?may you mean it doesnt bottom out.
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On 10/27/1999
PsychoAnimal
wrote in from
(209.53.nnn.nnn)
just some questions...I'm 230 lbs., and want to build a racing longboard. I ride a skull longboard (good old canadian co.), which is 7/16" thick, 9.5" wide and 46" long. It's stiff as hell with no flex (any flexing and the bitch will snap). So, what kind of wood do you recommend, measurements, and how do I concave the deck etc... Where can I get hooked up with a template? Should I fiberglass or not...thx dudes
Great White North.
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On 10/26/1999
Lonecore
wrote in from
(195.186.nnn.nnn)
Hey guys,
If your interested in building your own longboard, you should visit my page. I decide to share my experiences I've made while building mine.
Greetings,
Lonecore
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On 10/26/1999 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
I've seen two part polyurithane casting kits,They're generally available in one hardness (85a seems around standred) but I've read interveiws with people in the skateboard/rollerblade industry and the talk about dozens of precisely mixed components but then again its definitely in their best interest for people to think what they do is really high-tech and don't even think of tring it in your basement,but I think thats probabely not to far from the truth some things are better left to mass production.
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On 10/25/1999
aftermath
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
does anyone know anything about casting wheels? i've looked into 2-part urethanes and the like and was wondering if anyone out there has had experience in this field. thanx in advance.
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On 10/25/1999 Pre School Rider
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
Being in the N.New England area,I am kinda limited in what's available from retail shops(Cutting Edge excluded,Thanks to Nick and Craig),so it's up to me and my Bros to create what we can't find.Luckily,Snowboards of various vintages abound at all kinds of sporting goods stores.We have found that slicing off the edges,and then shaping the nose/tail to a stylish curve,creates a pretty decent cruiser skate.I'd recommend finding older race/carve snowboards to create longboard styled rides(Burton M8's Rule!)as the length is there,plus the flex is solid enough to hold up under high G slides and turns.Some of the early 90's freeride boards make good mid length(34" or so)street carve tools(Air 6's,Damien's,K-2 AC+HC's,etc.),just be careful that you cut around the existing inserts.Look for boards that are woodcore,as they hold up better,and don't worry about the base or edge conditions.This means you can score a board CHEAP that will work just fine.Cosmetically,you might have to suck up some pride,but think of it this way,you've just recycled an old junked-out snowboard,and put it back to good use.This is also a really effective way to get that pre-winter cross training in.P.S. My current ex-snowboard is a Joyride BullWinkle,setup with steep Angled risers,Seismics,and big old Kryto 70MM wheels,and measures 33"x8-1/2" with wheelbases of 20" to 28" drilled into it.
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On 10/23/1999
Brodie
wrote in from
(205.240.nnn.nnn)
My friend Alex and I are sitting here waiting for the stain to dry on our first attempts at homemade longboard history. Well we basically took your advice, got some 3/4" 11 ply appleply maple. The guy at the hardwood store here in Eugene, OR said it was the American version of Baltic Birch. We made up some 48" pintails somewhat similar to the sector 9 downhill boards. We're going to finish it with a thin coat of varathane(liquid plastic). HOpefully everything will turn out great and we'll be riding tomorrow morning. If anyone wants to check out these beauties, pictures will be posted on my site: http://www.geocities.com/Blarge_151/Blarge.html
Let me know what you think and suggestions for improvement on our next models are always appreciated. Pics posted soon. Thanks.
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On 10/23/1999 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
Wheelwells, on a production board I think they use a sanding drum set up, but on a homemade ,or home-modified put the trucks on and steer them manually ,mark the spots where the wheels rub, then take the trucks off and sand or grind in that area. A belt sander works great (the front part where the roller is) a dremel will work but will probabely look sloppy, routing takes to much wood out creating sharp seams(stress spots)a disk sander,like a car buffer but with sand paper,beg borrow but never steal anybodies tools,tell them you'll put a fresh piece of sandpaper on for the use of their sander,this will make life easier for you and makes your work come out better.If you have no friends ,a round or half round file (course) will work but it's gonna take a long time. For marking the holes ,drill them while the wood is square ,I would take two strips of wood 1" x1/2inch x long enough for your wheelbase and drill a 5/16 hole through both,near the end, then put an axle through the holes and tighten an axle nut on both. drill a hole through both pieces at the wheelbase length(46 might be easier) ,this makes both strips the same ;now take them apart ,and reassemble the trucks with a strip of wood connecting the axles,use bearings or whatever spacers you can find so you can put the axle nuts on, the trucks will be connected solidly by the strips of wood ,they'll will be spaced exactly like you'll want them to be once you've made the board, on Indies you'll be able to drill through the holes in the baseplates more easily if you use the old school pattern (a small drill or long drill bits make this even easier, use the right size,sharp drill bit),don't try to drill all of them at once ,drill one,put a bolt through and tighten, realiegn then drill another hole(opposite corner) put a bolt through and tighten,this guarantees good results. Once the trucks are bolted down,remove all bolts ,mark an x using the bolt holes and trace your poster board half template(flip it for the other half) lining up on the x's
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On 10/23/1999
steve
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
Thanks Herb. How do I make those wheel roundout things? They're in the place of cutouts and do the same job, but aren't cut all the way through, they're just dug out shallowly. Yeah, my boards going to be saggier than dolly parton's grandma, or at least I think it'll be. Do randals and indy 215s have the same hole pattern? Right now, I own a set of 215s and can't afford the Randal 2s I plan to put on my board. Can I use them as a drill template?
steve
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