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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 12/7/2003
Doug K
wrote in from
(66.31.nnn.nnn)
By the way, I am using an epoxy called AeroMarine Epoxy #300/11 from John Greer & Associates. It is cheap and works well for laminating plywood together. 45 min work time 24 hour cure. this stuff has a little haze when cured. It doesn't seem to matter when laminating but I wouldnt use it for finishing.
check jgreer.com
Doug K
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On 12/7/2003
Doug K
wrote in from
(66.31.nnn.nnn)
Brad,
Good to hear from you. Nor'easter ...ha
It is Sunday morning and they predicted ground zero here multiple networks said 15-30+. I got about 4" and counting. My brother gave me an old Toro. It is a supertaker to use herbn's words. Thats why we got ripped here.
Yes I just pressed another deck this morning. I am making a 56" deck with large cut-outs. I will keep you updated.
Keep me informed of the Rye trip. and next spring we should plan a powow up in the lakes region. Tons of long runs with light traffic. - After they sweep and all the salt melts into the ground.
Doug K
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On 12/6/2003 herbn
wrote in from
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i have a couple projects sitting in limbo,unfinnished. But i got a request for a extra long cruiser. It took a while but my local "truevalue hardware"was able to order longrain 4x8 sheets of birch multiply ,clean too, no plugs.At 56 inches my boards don't exactly set records but with only 3 inches of nose and only 6 inches of tail ,the wheelbase is quite a bit longer than your run oh the mill supertanker. I use 3/4 inch birch ply but i'm going to inlay some stingers/beams ,that are strips of 3/4 birch cut from the edges of the blanks, i can vary the strength of the boards by changing the thickness of the stingers/beams. Here are the problems with making real long boards;the table on my band saw is tiny, for cutting out huge templates ,i have two types of blades for my jig saw, the fine tooth one doesn't cut very well or very straight the rough one splinters the hell out of the wood. I made a template holding ,sanding stand and relatively quickly blended all the waves in template into one nice smooth pretty arch,i opted for a classic pintail shape instead of a full clearence new school shape. My drilling jig adapted nicely to the extra wheelbase and long pieces of aluminum billet are readily available , so when i make some really long boards that won't be a problem. For the final cut ,i think i'm gonna roughcut on my table saw, with just a bunch of close tangental straight cuts and trim with my router of shaper. I main problem is cutting the initial template.
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On 12/6/2003
repairman Cam
wrote in from
(68.45.nnn.nnn)
I just made 2 longboards from a pair of funky old water skis I found in the trash. Unlike most water skis, these were about 44" long and about 8 1/2 inches wide. They are made of some really stiff stuff, maybe fiberglass or a real strong composite, coated with what appears to be white vinyl. With my considerable weight (245 lbs...)there is no sag, but they are very stiff, to the point of almost being too harsh to ride. But hey, free is free!
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On 12/5/2003 Danno
wrote in from
(12.228.nnn.nnn)
What's the sickest deck out there so far.Does any one have picts?It seems that all of us have found the ultimate hobby..........Next to riding them.
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On 12/5/2003
Brad
wrote in from
(66.217.nnn.nnn)
Doug!
hmmmmmmmmmm Nor'easter this weekend!!!!!!!!!!!
(like you wouldn't know)
we're supposed to get 12 - 15 or 10 - 20
or 18 - 24 or something like that...
we better not get ripped off...at least 12" is cool...
...got the snowblower hummin'
any new designs floating around in that head?
Rye in Jan....
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On 12/4/2003
joseph
wrote in from
(211.30.nnn.nnn)
go find dex's email in the asia pacific forum big ears and ask him. weighing that much i doubt you would need the added carbon fibre sheet he uses.
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On 12/4/2003
BigEars teamNS
wrote in from
(210.49.nnn.nnn)
Has anyone tried buying a good shortboard and mounting trucks on the kicks?????? Did it work?? How was the flex???
NOTE: i only weigh 130 pounds
Big Ears teamNS
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On 12/4/2003
Doug K
wrote in from
(66.31.nnn.nnn)
Danno,
Yes. I have one I am working on right now. It is a slalom ski that my father had back in the 60's. Im not sure
what type of wood it is. It is some sort of laminated wood.
Jim, who owns nu wave sports in Laconia NH has a waterski longboard in his shop for show. If you can get the cheap skis which are around I would go for it.
Doug K
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On 12/4/2003
Hamm
wrote in from
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Danno, you just described some of the 1st longboards
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On 12/4/2003 Danno
wrote in from
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Has anyone tried using wood waterskis for decks?
Some of them were made out of white ash.
you can still get them at thrift stores for 20 bones.
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On 12/4/2003
Steve in AZ
wrote in from
(192.175.nnn.nnn)
...or why do that when I have a carve deck that I'm no longer using.
Drop me an email if you like pix (not hosted).
-=S=-
...or to answer your question, yes you can, but BE SURE to cut/sand/router for enough clearance.
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On 12/2/2003 Mc
wrote in from
(80.58.nnn.nnn)
Has anybody tried to make a carveboard "stik" copy? www.stik.com
I was thinking of mounting torsion trucks on the kick nose and tail of a 36 deck i have.The stik seems to have a very short turn radius and a lot of deck tilt travel (45 degrees?).I'm sure this has been tried before.Any ideas?.Thanks.
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On 11/30/2003 John
wrote in from
(66.207.nnn.nnn)
Hey
I am 13 and have great woodworking skills. I have made and used many of yaws ideas. I mostly make longboards and slolom decks. Im starting a new project and I plan to laminate a peice of flamed mapple vaneer while i press the rest of my deck. I want to inlay a a simple stringer like thing down the center and later on move on to complicated inlays of purpleheart. I also want to bind the edges like a guitar with abalone or pearl. How would I do this?
Any suggestions for my progect would be healpful.
Oh, where is also the best place for me tyo buy exotic venners?
Thanks, John
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On 11/29/2003 Bryan
wrote in from
(66.80.nnn.nnn)
Thanks Steve
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On 11/26/2003
Steve
wrote in from
(207.202.nnn.nnn)
Bryan,
I use epoxy resin. The only problem with epoxy is it's expensive unless you buy it in 5-gallon buckets. Even then it ain't cheap. You probably wouldn't need more than a pint but at low volumes like that, it's going to cost. You can probably find a 1-quart kit for 20-30 bucks. It won't break the bank, but it's a lot if you're just doing 1 board. It's great stuff though. I recommend SystemThree, but any brand should work.
You can probaby use polyester or vinylester resin too. It's cheaper, but has very "powerful" fumes. Warn the neighbors, wear a respirator, rubber gloves, and do it in a place with plenty of ventilation. It's actually not THAT bad, but it's pretty bad. The stench will linger for several hours.
Steve
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On 11/26/2003 Bryan
wrote in from
(66.80.nnn.nnn)
Hey Steve, one last question.. I think I may give the acrylic dust a try. What resin do you recommend? Thank -B
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On 11/26/2003 Bryan
wrote in from
(66.80.nnn.nnn)
Hey guys, thanks for the response.. I have seen several boards with a transparent grip (Ed Economy, Soulcarver, etc...) which is what got me interested. I think your right though, I might as well stick (no pun intended) with what I know. thanks -B
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On 11/25/2003 PSR
wrote in from
(24.52.nnn.nnn)
FlexDeck for 0$,try using a simple 'beam' approach.Go get a piece of 'select' hardwood from your local hobby/craft store,preferably something stiff and springy like Walnut(Oak,Maple,Rosewood work too).I look for pieces that're at least 24" long and 2" wide,but will play with the thickness a bit,from 3/16" down to 3/32".I put the wood under the cut-down snowboard as a center spar.If it matches my wheelbase,I'll mount it first by using the truck-mounting holes.If it ends up being too short to fit right under the trucks,then I'll T-Nut it in.If it does adjust the flex to where I want it,then I get out the glue.Make sure the glue you use flexes and sticks to both wood and p-tex plastic(there are some nice ski-shop repair epoxies out there that work great).Price so far on the flex adjusting beam I list here;About $6,including glue.As for boards,look for wood-core Freeriders,Boardercross decks,or Freecarve types.Race boards work too,but tend towards being too skinny once the edges are cut away.Rental shops,Ski-swaps,and Play-It-again Sports shops are great places to scoop up boards cheap.I know it's kinda cheating,taking something already pressed into shape and merely cutting a new outline to it,as it's not 'truly' handmade by You.However I look at it this way also;I'm recycling!
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On 11/25/2003 FL
wrote in from
(65.119.nnn.nnn)
Re : Heat blankets...The most common source for these are Material Handling companies .The blankets are commonly used to heat up 55 gal. drums of material to be processed ...FL
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On 11/24/2003 Retro grip
wrote in from
(64.136.nnn.nnn)
Back in the 70's they had this stuff called "grip it"
it was a sylica sand with glue type of thing...I never saw it...except for the ads in Skateboarder...I wonder if it worked?
YO "How do you get that glass finish so fine? DOUG"...WHAT'S UP?
The guys are talking Rye in mid Jan...
the Nor'easter site is now enabled for the multi ply/bearing type ordering thing.
it's kinda cool....
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On 11/23/2003
Steve
wrote in from
(207.202.nnn.nnn)
The problem with most clear grip tapes is that you can't really see through them all that well. I'm assuming that's what you're trying to accomplish. The other thing is that they get dirty very quickly and start to look kinda crappy. Black tape gets just as dirty of course. You just can't see it as much.
One thing you can use is acrylic dust, which is ground up optical-grade plastic (though I'm not sure how you can tell once it's ground). Spread a thin coat of resin on top of the board and let it get a little tacky. Then sprinkle the acrylic dust over it in a nice even coat. Let it cure then brush off whatever didn't stick. You can also use ground glass for this, but I personally wouldn't recommend it unless you want the sharpest grip you ever saw. It'll hold you feet in place, no problem. But it will also shred your skin when you pick it up. Trust me on that one. Also, if you use ground glass, wear a respirator. There will be lots of airborne particles. That stuff is very bad news to inhale. Goes into lungs... does not come back out.
Acrylic dust is available at www.fiberglasssupply.com. It's commonly used on sailboards for grip.
Steve
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On 11/22/2003
Bryan
wrote in from
(66.80.nnn.nnn)
Hey all, does anyone know where to find good quality clear grip. Not neccesarily a tape, maybe a mixture. The only decent one I have been able to find is Negative One Clear Grip and it had several bad reviews. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks B
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On 11/21/2003 Got wood
wrote in from
(24.185.nnn.nnn)
Wood.
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On 11/20/2003 mak
wrote in from
(64.173.nnn.nnn)
hello?
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