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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 12/20/1999
juan fungi
wrote in from
(131.183.nnn.nnn)
To: LBC re: griptape
The file works great but isn't critical to successful trimmage. I generally apply the tape then use the shaft of the business end of a screwdriver to go around the edge. Crank it up at an angle when you bring it around and trim w/ a utility knife.
A side note: if you have tape that is smaller than the board, you can cut it into four sections then use the factory cut corners on the inside to give both decent coverage and a more professional look.
____________________________________
/_______II___________________________\
/________ ____________________________\
( II )
\ /
\_______ ___________________________/
(the i's represent the factory corners)
Sorry about the crappy ascii but hopefully it made sense.
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On 12/20/1999
Evo
wrote in from
(216.128.nnn.nnn)
I have been making custom boards for myself for a while and I want to delve into wood/fiberglass mixes. Questions are:
Anybody hook me up on the old post below! Some has to have some glass experience. Thanks
What resin to use for good flex without cracking?
What oz fiberglass cloth is most common for boards?
"Precurred" fiberglass sheets, availability? Where?
Polishing of cured resin?
Pigment?
Peace
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On 12/18/1999 Adam
wrote in from
(63.192.nnn.nnn)
Every shop I've seen uses a metal file about 12" long to score the grip tape along the corner of the deck. It doesn't take a lot of back and forth sawing-- just running the file around the edge of the deck one time does the trick. Once the file has passed over the grip tape, the tape is weakened (and well stuck on) that you can use a knife to cut along the weak line made by the file path.
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On 12/18/1999 LBC
wrote in from
(209.179.nnn.nnn)
I was wondering if anyone could suggest a good method of cutting grip tape to the shape of their boards. It seems pretty hard to do nicely (getting the edges to match and perfectly smooth). Is there a special knife the shops use that "guide" the blade along the contour of the boards?
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On 12/17/1999
Lonecore
wrote in from
(194.230.nnn.nnn)
Oh, and the adress is:
http://beam.to/lonecore
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On 12/13/1999
Lonecore
wrote in from
(194.230.nnn.nnn)
Hi,
After a long time, I'm back with a new update of Lonecore. You are now able to download Adobe Acrobat (.pdf) files on my site. For example articles of LONECORE WEBZINE, the new "International Longboarder Magazine" and more. Be sure to visit it
(and download the ultimate guide to building your own board)!
Greetings,
Lonecore
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On 12/12/1999
Ben
wrote in from
(203.96.nnn.nnn)
Im making a hardwood deck out of a leftover piece of cedar i found in our garage and i need some tips on what kind of wheels i should use. I want them to be quite soft for slow, easy, long, carves but need to be able to kick them loose for sharp, quick slides. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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On 12/11/1999
dwillce
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
i want to make my own board that is 50-60 inches long. i was told that ash would be good wood to use. is it ? or are there any ther suggestions?
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On 12/11/1999
pete7227
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
just started making my own decks and I am curious about bending wood (plywood) for kicktails, any suggestions?
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On 12/10/1999
Juan Fungi
wrote in from
(131.183.nnn.nnn)
>>what is a towne and country board?<<
This is an 80's era old school board about 32" long (I think made in Hawaii) that had a fishtail shape, good concave on both axis, and a nifty griptape job on the top that I'd describe as flagstoned - random pieces fitted so you can still see the wood.
>>wouldn't that make three layers on his board? why?<<
Sorry, I inserted a paragraph that looks like I attached the T&C Board ... It should have said :
Gullwing Trucks & OJ wheels salvaged from an old school Towne & Country board - (Garage Sale - $7.00"
Since all I used were the trucks and wheels.
I used the ski as a stringer since I wanted to keep the board thickness / weight down and it seemed like an easy way to put in a concave.
One thing came as a surprise though ... I had assumed that the ski was fiberglass all the way through. Come to find out, they are wood encased in a plastic box. Who'd a thunk it? The ski I used was a Rossignol (sp?) I'm sure there are other types of construction out there.
Juan
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On 12/10/1999
superfrog
wrote in from
(163.187.nnn.nnn)
hello fellows..
i am making an other board, a 60" long with a simple plywood, einforced by a beam of the same wood..
tried it in my room, it looks like being heaven..
french coleman zliding THE concrete waves..like lindsay would say..
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On 12/9/1999 brian
wrote in from
(206.105.nnn.nnn)
sorry, i didn't make that clear enough. juan states in the materials used to make his board:
"1 cross country ski - (found by side of road)
1 18" by 5' piece of 3/8" birch 7 ply (~ $8.00)
Gullwing Trucks & OJ wheels salvaged from an old school
Towne & Country board - (Garage Sale - $7.00"
wouldn't that make three layers on his board? why?
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On 12/9/1999 Lindsay
wrote in from
(202.37.nnn.nnn)
Town & Country make nice surf boards...
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On 12/9/1999 brian
wrote in from
(167.21.nnn.nnn)
what is a towne and country board?
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On 12/6/1999
Juan (Boy is my face red) Fungi
wrote in from
(131.183.nnn.nnn)
%&$*#!!
I swear, my browser said it puked on the first submission.
Many apologies for bandwidth waste.
Juan
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On 12/6/1999
Juan Fungi
wrote in from
(131.183.nnn.nnn)
Warning! Long story w/ much (unwarranted) pride exhibited
I finally finished round one of my first board building
effort!
Materials included :
1 cross country ski - (found by side of road)
1 18" by 5' piece of 3/8" birch 7 ply (~ $8.00)
Gullwing Trucks & OJ wheels salvaged from an old school
Towne & Country board - (Garage Sale - $7.00)
I drew out half a longboard template on a piece of folded
greenbar computer paper, cut it and transferred to the wood.
The final is about 10" at the widest and 52" long. I then
cut the ski to length and drilled it for the trucks (might
be a problem here - pretty close to the edge of ski for my
comfort) After centering the ski on the bottom of the board
and transferring truck mount holes, I pre-drilled holes down
the length of the board and shot drywall screws down the
length. The wheelbase works out to around 42" and the board
followed the convex (concave?) of the top of the ski
beautifully! At 175 lbs. it has about 1 1/2" of flex when
I stand on the middle. I haven't risked much bouncing yet,
as I want to ride it some before I hear that snap!
Performance: Well, I don't know. I own a couple of Sector 9
boards (Cosmic and Cosmic II) that have much flex and I've
never ridden a true longboard ... that said ... It feels
like a Cadillac to me! Course November in Ohio is hardly
peak longboarding season!
Here's my question: Any of you seasoned board-building vets
have any suggestions? (I know - Randalls or
X-skates [$$!!]) The only thing other a stained finish and
minimal gripage is epoxying the ski to the board and
possibly one layer of fiberglass to stiffen / strengthen.
Anything else?
Thanks
Juan Fungi
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On 12/6/1999
Juan Fungi
wrote in from
(131.183.nnn.nnn)
Warning! Long story w/ much (unwarranted) pride exhibited
I finally finished round one of my first board building
effort!
Materials included :
1 cross country ski - (found by side of road)
1 18" by 5' piece of 3/8" birch 7 ply (~ $8.00)
Gullwing Trucks & OJ wheels salvaged from an old school
Towne & Country board - (Garage Sale - $7.00)
I drew out half a longboard template on a piece of folded
greenbar computer paper, cut it and transferred to the wood.
The final is about 10" at the widest and 52" long. I then
cut the ski to length and drilled it for the trucks (might
be a problem here - pretty close to the edge of ski for my
comfort) After centering the ski on the bottom of the board
and transferring truck mount holes, I pre-drilled holes down
the length of the board and shot drywall screws down the
length. The wheelbase works out to around 42" and the board
followed the convex (concave?) of the top of the ski
beautifully! At 175 lbs. it has about 1 1/2" of flex when
I stand on the middle. I haven't risked much bouncing yet,
as I want to ride it some before I hear that snap!
Performance: Well, I don't know. I own a couple of Sector 9
boards (Cosmic and Cosmic II) that have much flex and I've
never ridden a true longboard ... that said ... It feels
like a Cadillac to me! Course November in Ohio is hardly
peak longboarding season!
Here's my question: Any of you seasoned board-building vets
have any suggestions? (I know - Randalls or
X-skates [$$!!]) The only thing other a stained finish and
minimal gripage is epoxying the ski to the board and
possibly one layer of fiberglass to stiffen / strengthen.
Anything else?
Thanks
Juan Fungi
fiberglass to help
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On 12/4/1999 brian
wrote in from
(206.105.nnn.nnn)
wheels: the only softies i have tried are krypto classic k's (70mm, blue) they make you go loads faster and are really quiet. Bearings: I like Black Panthers (by quickies). I have the abec 3's whick i used in a shortboard for a long time, rode through water and let them sit, and they're still hella fast.
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On 12/3/1999
Ustwest
wrote in from
(161.38.nnn.nnn)
I found this old wooden water ski that was about 5'6"by 8". I took it home and sanded it down and drilled holes for the trucks. Then I used food coloring diluted with water to stain a design in it. I used polycrylic varnish to seal it up again. It turned out looking pretty cool. I put my old set of G&S trucks on it. It's really flexy and its got a 55" wheel base so it rides really mellow. All I need now is better wheels and bearings. I would appreciate suggestions.
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On 12/2/1999
Evo
wrote in from
(216.128.nnn.nnn)
I have been making custom boards for myself for a while and I want to delve into wood/fiberglass mixes. Questions are:
What resin to use for good flex without cracking?
What oz fiberglass cloth is most common for boards?
"Precurred" fiberglass sheets, availability? Where?
Polishing of cured resin?
Pigment?
Peace
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On 12/1/1999 honky
wrote in from
(63.25.nnn.nnn)
i found plywood to be rather crappy. ive made boards out of everything. Maple plywood, oak blah blah...9 plys. they flex pretty well but they finish off rather badly. If its the flex your looking for then 8 ply or higher is the way to go. Try making some hardwood boards. They really dont flex but i found the ride to be soooo much smoother and faster than plywood. They're a lot prettier too.
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On 12/1/1999
lorena
wrote in from
(163.187.nnn.nnn)
I wouuld like ro do a longboard with plywood and 2 added lays of metal stuck to the wood.But i don`t know how
to cut the board when it`s stuck.Can i do that with a jig saw?
Can i reduce the wood thickness doing that; what i hope is to have a perfect flex and a higher resistance.Am i dreaming?
Does anybody here did that before and can help me.thank you dudes...
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On 11/26/1999
superfrog
wrote in from
(163.187.nnn.nnn)
thank you jacko for you precious help and in the way to have our discussion more clear..
life `s a ride , hang ten to the way you`ve chosen...
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On 11/24/1999
joe
wrote in from
(203.42.nnn.nnn)
i was wondering if anyone out there knew how much aliminium skateboard decks cost.
please help me.
JOE
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On 11/23/1999
Pete Hawkins
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
I was wondering if anyone could tell me how to get in touch with some companies that manufacture bearings. If you have any suggetions they would be appreciated
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