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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 12/28/2003
BillF
wrote in from
(65.141.nnn.nnn)
Any thoughts on using Gorilla glue for laminating baltic birch ply? I know it is good glue. Any down side to it? Thanks.
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On 12/28/2003
Steve Hopper
wrote in from
(207.202.nnn.nnn)
John,
I think there are a lot of people out here who can help you with this foam thing, but you'll need to explain in much greater detail what you're trying to do.
If you're going to make a board out of foam you are absolutely going to have to fiberglass it. I don't know of any foam strong enough to be ridden on its own. The point of foam core boards is their extremely light weight, but foam isn't stiff enough on its own. It needs to be wrapped in fiberglass to become stiff. You'll need fairly heavy glass or multiple layers of lighter glass on both sides. Basically it's a modified version of surfboard construction. Check www.swaylocks.com for the ulimate surfboard building resource. Lots of good info there that can be applied to skateboard building.
Also, the best way to do this is to vacuum bag it. What you would do is buy rigid, closed-cell foam (available at some plastics suppliers), cut it to the shape you want, then layup and wet out the glass with resin, put the foam core on it, layup and wet out the other side of glass and put that on top. Then you need to lay bleeder material (to let out the air) around the edges, cover it with bagging film, secure the bagging film to the mold, then put in a valve and hook it up to a vacuum pump. This should be a pump that will continuously cycle to maintain the vacuum pressure until the resin is cured. There's plenty more to it than this, but that's the basic idea. Of course you would do this layup on some sort of form/mold that has the finished camber/concave you want. The vacuum will suck everything down to the mold and hold it there until it's done.
As you can see... this is no afternoon project and doing it this way requires a fairly significant amount of materials (i.e. a lot of money). Anyway... hope this has been useful information.
Steve
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On 12/28/2003 henry
wrote in from
(172.179.nnn.nnn)
john, i don't know about making decks out of pure foam- or are you speaking about a foam core to be glassed afterwards?
i'm just into making flat plywood decks, very low-tech...
doug k, are you going to post some pictures of your tanker on your website? would be really appreciated...
thx, henry
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On 12/28/2003 John
wrote in from
(66.207.nnn.nnn)
oh, i forgot 2 ask,
what is the best material to make a cast of my z-woody?? Shold i coat my board so it dont stick to the material?? I want to pour pour foam in the cast, so should i coat the cast with somthing when it is finished? Thanks, John
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On 12/26/2003 John
wrote in from
(66.207.nnn.nnn)
Hey,
can some one please tell me what is the best pour foam to pour in a mold and make a deck out of it. I am prefeably wanting a flexy one but a stiff one is ok. Please get back to me on this i am realy eger to start this project. Thanks, John
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On 12/24/2003 Brad
wrote in from
(66.217.nnn.nnn)
Hey Doug,
yeah, we're heading out tomorrow morning...probably until Sat or Sun
we may hit some parks down there, since there isn't any snow..
got to try my new set of Van's,and those Biltins...
If you can't make it fri, maybe sat or sun? fri is the best
as if my snivic has problems, garages are open...it is getting old..
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On 12/23/2003 Doug K
wrote in from
(66.31.nnn.nnn)
Brad,
Regarding Rye, I need to check with my family (wife) to see what she has planned, I will get back to you before too late. Are you heading to the Cape?
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On 12/23/2003
Doug K
wrote in from
(66.31.nnn.nnn)
Thanks for the responses.
I have already shaped the deck - camber and concave - so anything I add will not be flush or inlaid, but will be on
top. It is only 1/2" thick but not as floppy as you might think for my 160 lb. 3/8 sounds about right. I was thinking of oak or maple for price and availabilty.
Thanks again,
Doug
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On 12/23/2003 hugh r
wrote in from
(24.48.nnn.nnn)
Doug... you can always do an aluminum stringer... top of deck, or bottom... HR
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On 12/23/2003
Brad
wrote in from
(64.136.nnn.nnn)
Doug,
depends on what kind of wood you choose, and the width of that wood. Will the stringer be flush with the rest of the deck? or will it be higher?....I'm assuming higher...Not being an expert on this, it seems 3/8" rings a bell....mohogany? (sp?) there are sites on the web you can order it from...ebay also...not as expensive as you may think....
I'm thinking Jan 2 (friday) for Rye...although it's not etched in stone, it sounds like a good day.....you game?
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On 12/23/2003
Doug K
wrote in from
(66.31.nnn.nnn)
My 56" tanker is coming out very well. However, the 42" wheelbase -/+ is a little too flexible for what I want. I want to add a stringer for stiffness. I think I am going to epoxy a strip of hardwood of some type to the bottom running full length down the center of the deck. I plan to leave "cut outs" in it for the trucks. any advice on how thick of a stringer I should add? I know that the change in flexibility is a bit of a crap shoot, but what size stringer will work well without getting in the way (width by depth)
any info?
Doug
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On 12/21/2003
dustin
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
ok i cut a speedboard design out of 4ply, snowboard and plexiglass....mounted randal 2's through snowboard cut out area for the baseplate in the ply and topped it off w/ plexi. the snowboard and ply are glued and the plexi is mounted through the binding holes of the snowboard...so the trucks are inside the board and visible through the plexiglass on top. its a very stable and sick carving board...email me if anyone wants pics...im also working on one of chaputs prototype/idea boards if anyone knows what that is...ill be done as soon as all the parts come in>
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On 12/15/2003 SpeedRacer
wrote in from
(69.63.nnn.nnn)
Troy
I have some scrap 11 ply birch, I'll give that a try and post my results.
Thank You for the idea!
SpeedRacer
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On 12/15/2003 Troy
wrote in from
(24.185.nnn.nnn)
Using a dado blade is a pretty easy and fast way to make a piece of plywood look like a really nice board.
I've been doing that lately on a bunch of decks.
I usually buy some 3/4" hardwood that I cut into 1/4" strips. Put a couple of 3/4" datos down the middle of the board (maybe 2" apart), inset the hardwood and voila.
From hunk of plywood to sweet looking deck in minutes.
Saves time later too.
No painting or putting cloth on the bottom to try and make it look nice. Just sand well, put some glossy finish on it and it looks like a million bucks.
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On 12/15/2003
Doug K
wrote in from
(64.222.nnn.nnn)
Brad,
Its a tanker alright. 56" x 9-1/2" cambered and concave. 2 layers of 1/4" baltic epoxied together. Full cutouts for wheels and I stepped the tail in about 1/2" each side as it tapers to the back. I dont have any pics yet but its looking good. I am hoping to keep it as is for simplicity and not add any stringers for stiffness. my wheel base is going to end up at 40 - 41", and initial tests indicate that this isn't too flexible. I am not going for a speed board, just a big carving cruiser.
You were right we went to freezing rain after the foot of snow. Its a mess but I picked up my snowboard on Saturday and plan to get out there during my xmas break.
tally ho and happy holidays to all!
Doug K
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On 12/14/2003 herbn
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
with the slush falling from the sky , i went into my shop and worked on a few different things. One of which was finnishing off the ends of the rails on my second cruiser and putting up the last of my three cruisers my press. Pressing the stingers in with about two inch blocks under the truck holes puts about .75 inches of camber into the board. On a cruiser i think i like to compensate for the sag with camber, this worked out nice. Maybe some of the camber will go away with time, there's no glass or carbon, just wood,should be ok though. I figure , if i put flush stingers in the top of the deck and stick with raised stinger/ beams on the bottom,maybe go with more stingers ,the camber will stay closer to the pressed height, and be more durable. If i make alot of these i'll need to get a dado cutting saw blade,any of you guys ever use a dado blade for anything?Pics soon.
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On 12/14/2003
Brad
wrote in from
(66.217.nnn.nnn)
Herbn,
I wouldn't worry about graphics...we don't have them either,
just Formica and a sticker. There are plenty of boards
with graphics out there, and although people tend to buy
up decks with a snazzy paint/graphics job, the obvious
truth is that pictures have no
effect on the deck's function. If you've ever tried screening your
own boards, this is a godsend. Screenprinting is messy,nasty,
and because it is a craft in itself, has a bit of a learning
curve.
It sounds like you are making some pretty nice
speed decks. Do you have pics of them posted anywhere?
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On 12/13/2003 herbn
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
My cruiser; 55.5 inches long, 43 inch wheelbase x 10 inches wide.3/4 inch 13 ply birch with stingers of vertical ply birch inlaid in the bottom. I got a big hole in the tail for towing up the hills when walking the one with the handles came out a bit flexy, not excessively ,but i feel like to much flex is coming from that middle part of the board, i'm gonna epoxy a couple progressively longer layers of carbon between the handles, and try to get the flex pattern a bit more even. Every cut is rounded off with a rather large 3/8 radius round over bit and a router. Wheel wells are correct for randals and indy's with some riser, and anything from 65mm to 83 mm wheels , actually the back ons are more of a long bevel. With the beams and the wheelwells and the well rounded edges i don't think there's room for graphics.
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On 12/13/2003 herbn
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
minor misunderstanding ,i cut the template out using the bandsaw. I don't worry to much about perfection, i just go after it with my beltsander,the template is for half the board,square and straight on three sides. I prop it up in a little stand that holds it vertical and use my best judgement when sanding. The template gets flipped about perfectly drilled truck holes, so it's symetrical. When making a board a straight wheelbase is priority onem, then symetry in the areas where your feet are (is nice) everyting else can be off, and the board will still function well. Naturally starting with a straigth piece of ply may or may not be something you can control. Holes are job one.
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On 12/13/2003
Brad
wrote in from
(66.217.nnn.nnn)
Herbn,
You're using a bandsaw w/a template? hmm that's
interesting...
how do you not cut the template?
I much prefer bandsaws over routers....routers are so
unforgiving..
Doug! you ready for this next round (nor'easter)?
you guys might go to rain..
we're gonna get nailed....(again!)
send me a pic of that new board you got going...
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On 12/11/2003 herbn
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
I ment to post on the bandsaw subject, it was actually pretty cool for the template, i thought it wouldn't be steady but it worked out ok, For a 56 inch template .When i do a 6 footer i may have to extend the table like you suggest ,thanks.
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On 12/11/2003
FL
wrote in from
(65.119.nnn.nnn)
Herbn...A bandsaw table can be extended by using 1 inch plywood cut to the size you need ,then clamped or bolted to the table . At least , thats what I had to do ..FL
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On 12/8/2003
Doug K
wrote in from
(64.222.nnn.nnn)
Skating on a cruise ship deck!
I have never been on a cruise - its never appealed to me as a way to vacation. But I think you may have something here that could change all that....Aren't there bars all over cruise ships too? I see a new olypic event coming!
Does anyone have opinions/ experience on epoxy haze affecting performance when used for laminating? I have not had any problems but want to learn more.
Thanks
Doug
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On 12/8/2003 repairman Cam
wrote in from
(68.45.nnn.nnn)
Ah yes....snow, one of my least favorite 4 letter words! Any one now if they let longboards on a cruise ship?
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On 12/7/2003
Brad
wrote in from
(66.217.nnn.nnn)
HA! 4"? we've got about 15"...it's all done now..
you guys should be getting more...the thing is still
churning out there...
56"?? wow! I gotta see that! a super-tanker-mellow
-cruiser hey?
-Too bad you can't skate in the salt...
Yeah, now that snow has wrecked the skate season
those skate rats in Conn. Will be getting antsy.
anytime is Rye time now....will let you know.
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