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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 2/3/2004 Dave
wrote in from
(67.67.nnn.nnn)
Hello. I got some good advice here about a year ago regarding a narrow freestyle deck I wanted to build. Jack at Bahne was great and made me a Bahne rocker that's 6.5" wide. It worked out fine as a mini-longboard but I finally figured out why I couldn't turn it fast enough to do Bertlemans. The wheelbase was way too long (it was originally a 8.75" pool deck).
Can anyone tell me what a reasonable wheelbase for a 6.5" early to mid-70s bank surfing and freestyle board would be? I'm trying to get a board similar to what Jay Adams and co. used for their low, loose, surfy skating with lots of Bertlemans. (I'm using Tracker midtracks and 64mm--Bulldog Dubcons, not exactly period, but close enough for me).
Thanks a lot.
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On 2/3/2004
Meerdink
wrote in from
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Does anyone know anything about where to buy cheap pig shaped, longboard, and spoon nosed uncut blanks for cheap? Also does anyone know anything about making a concrete skateboard mold?
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On 2/3/2004 Cory P (PDX)
wrote in from
(63.242.nnn.nnn)
Thanks for all the feedback on aluminium board construction!!
I did some calculations and I am going to pocket out 2/3rds of the aluminium plate to lighten it up. I plan on mounting the trucks in recessed pockets like Hugh's example I also have some 1/2" Baltic Bertch ply for deck extentions (I want a wood edge all the way around) I will be sure to post the results!
Thanks again -CP
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On 2/2/2004
Steve Hopper
wrote in from
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Eric M,
Any single epoxy will work for both applications. System Three makes great stuff, but there are lots of others. For a completely clear finish coat, you could use System Three's "SB-112". It's for glassing surfboards (hence the SB). It's completely clear when cured and has the added benefit of having UV protection.
Steve
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On 2/2/2004
Eric M
wrote in from
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I've got a couple of epoxy questions that I haven't quite been able to find the answers to by searching this forum.
First, is there a single epoxy that will will work for laminating layers of birch ply, and for laying up fiberglass? Or is it necessary to get specific epoxies for these two purposes? If anybody can recommend specific brands of epoxy, it would be a big help.
Also, can anyone recommend a good clear-drying epoxy that can be used for a finish coat?
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On 1/31/2004 hugh r
wrote in from
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Here's the third option we tried for droping the deck... aluminum plates flush mounted to the top... trucks are mounted directly to the plates... HR
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On 1/31/2004 hugh r
wrote in from
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Here's a different set up that used the same building technique... better wood... worked well... HR
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On 1/31/2004 hugh r
wrote in from
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This one has an aprox 1/8" aluminum insert along the top of the deck... trucks are mounted directly to the aluminum.
The wood wasn't suitable for the girth of the riders... but the aluminum worked on this one and has worked very well on oak decks... HR
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On 1/30/2004 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
Aluminum will be a big loser on strength to weight ratio. Plywood has modulus about 1.2 MMpsi, aluminum 10 MMpsi, but aluminum weighs 3 times as much. So if we assume that a 16mm piece of plywood is adequate for a longboard (and it usually is), at the same weight you only get 5.3mm of aluminum. Then calculate stiffness based upon the 2.7 power of thickness, times the modulus, and we have 2139 for wood, and 902 for aluminum, the wood will be over twice as stiff !!!
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On 1/30/2004 Cory P (PDX)
wrote in from
(63.242.nnn.nnn)
Thanks hugh r!
I have seen that board on your site before but there was not much info on it's construction are the trucks mounted directly to the metal spine? I want to only leave around .075" thickness for mounting the trucks. I hope that this will lower the deck as much as possible without going the drop thru route. Also a big difference in the one that I am building is that there will be no wood bridge. The wooden sides, front and back will attach directly to the metal. This will make the aluminium take the full load for the span, do you still think it will be stiff. I plan on milling the Aluminium tonight.
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On 1/30/2004
iturtle5
wrote in from
(68.51.nnn.nnn)
Hello. I am a design student and a longboarder. I have built a few boards for
myself and enjoy it a lot. I am working on a design for longboard builders and was wondering if any one could answer a few questions for me to help me out with my user research. If anyone would be interested in helping further through direct emails or phone calls it would be appreciated and extremely helpful.
Questions
1. Why do you build boards?
2. How may boards have you built/bought? Future plans?
3. What tools do you have?
4. What else do you build if anything?
5. What do you hope to achieve when you build a board?
6. Have you heard of or tried Roarockit?
If so any likes, dislikes, thoughts?
Thanks for Your Help
iturtle5@yahoo.com
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On 1/30/2004 hugh r
wrote in from
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Cory... I have done several... copy and paste the link below:
http://www.hugh308.homestead.com/skate_speedboard.html
Your aluminum piece is probably way too big! It only needs to be slightly wider than your trucks baseplates and you'd be surprized at how much stiffer the board becomes with a piece that is only 0.125" thick... I wouldn't go with anything thicker than 0.20 myself (I weigh 235 lbs) HR
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On 1/30/2004 Cory P (PDX)
wrote in from
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I am building an aluminum spine deck for downhill boarding. I commute every day on my skateboard and half the commute is uphill. So weight is a major factor for me. Has anyone had any experience with this setup to maximize strength to weight? I’m using a 4” x .5” x 42” for my spine.
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On 1/30/2004
Duncan Watson
wrote in from
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Sure this has been asked a million times - I have searched and found the same question but can't find the associated replies.
Basically: how do I calculate the amount of camber to give a board for a given rider weight and ply thickness?
Are there any websites that give a good method or even some tried and tested setups?
Cheers in advance,
dunc
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On 1/30/2004 Mike
wrote in from
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Hey guys, just wanted to say that using that acrylic dust (meant for windsurfing boards) in place of grip tape worked great. My only two recommendations would be to allow the epoxy to get fully tacky first (like masking tape tacky) and to sprinkle a ton of it on there. In the middle of my concave board, where the epoxy slowly ran to, the epoxy soaked up most of the grit, but on the edges, it looks beautiful. And you can always brush off what dust doesn't stick to the epoxy once the epoxy is dry. Really grippy, and almost transparent. I'd recommend it.
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On 1/29/2004
Doug K
wrote in from
(64.222.nnn.nnn)
Duane,
Thanks for the info, that thing is big but simple.
Hopefully I can find one for that cheap. I planned on
setting it up with a vacuum control, guage and limit switch
and adjusting it to cycle between some reasonable vacuum
pressures depending on what it can do.
Thanks again,
Doug
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On 1/29/2004 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
cut & pastehttp://www.asset-exchange.biz/vpump/Welch%201373.jpg welch pump. overkill ? certainly but maybe later you'll move on to bigger thing, like, say, skatecars
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On 1/29/2004 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
Re: vacuum pumps. Go big would be my advice. The little ones are OK but some have trouble running continuously. You can use valves and gauges if you wish so the pump can cut off and rest, but I never do this. Get a continuous-duty rated pump and crush that sucker. Dual-stage with 1/4 hp motor or so. these retail new for up to $2000 but I got one off eBay for $75. It didn't work right at first but then I realized the factory caps were still on the exhaust ports, it had never been used !!! Welch Duo-Seal will be half of all such pumps. Some of these can be very old so watch out, parts are very expensive. The oil-filled vane-type pumps I'm talking about can also survive some resin if it gets sucked in, which if you do infusion will probably happen sooner or later. Just crack it open, clean it up and change the oil. Diaphragm pumps are toast if resin gets in. Vane pumps only have a few replacement parts, a seal kit will renew them to full working order for around $35-50. Go for belt drive, that way you can use an old wash machine motor if yours burns, direct drive you must buy the exact frame size, $$$
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On 1/28/2004
Doug K
wrote in from
(24.128.nnn.nnn)
Regarding vacuum bagging,
can anyone recommend a decent brand and model of pump to search for on ebay and relative price ranges to expect? I have seen several used 115v models that say to pull 27"hg which is more than enough...any info appreciated.
Doug K
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On 1/28/2004 Gareth
wrote in from
(216.210.nnn.nnn)
Resin infusion - works great! We have been using that process for over a year now on our foam cores and have seen a number of positive results; stronger boards, lighter boards, and using about 15% less resin! It's the only way to go! If you are set up for vacuum bagging, then you are almost there!
G-
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On 1/28/2004 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
The best free online resource is right here... cut & pastehttp://www.fibreglast.com/contentpages-Learning-Center-286.html
otherwise buying a book might help. Note the section in the above website on resin infusion...it is the wave of the future. no waste-y no stink-y
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On 1/26/2004 Mr. Curious
wrote in from
(24.185.nnn.nnn)
Duane, I'll bet that's it.
I am using a fast hardener (west system 205), and it does get hot.
Damn, I wish I had known that 4 boards ago.
I think it would be very helpful if someone such as yourself would post up all the do's, dont's and helpful tips to glassing, all in one post.
I have searched "fiberglass", "glass", and "epoxy" and came up with a few helpful things but never found what I wanted to find. A post that tells you how to do it properly.
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On 1/26/2004 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
Re: Mr. curious bubbles: is your epoxy batch too hot, i.e. to much heat generated on cure ? I dislike fast cure epoxy because it gives little working time, sets too hot, and not to mention is not as strong. The heat could expand air in pores in the wood. I would bet if you do two things, switch to slow cure hardener, and pre-seal the wood with a thin coat of epoxy (no glass) and scuff, then your problem will go away. I also like to work at 60 degrees or so, then move the work to a warmer space when its done, doubles your working time.
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On 1/26/2004
Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
I find that a wheel works extremely well as a make-shift large drum for sanding. I just glue in bearings (glue the bearings internally as well), use a piece of 5/16" all-thread as a mandrel, then glue on sandpaper. When it wears out glue more on over top. Spray glue like 3M 7-7 sticks like mad to a used wheel, not so good to a new one (mold release) but its not like you'd use a new wheel anyways.
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On 1/26/2004
Doug K
wrote in from
(64.222.nnn.nnn)
Wheel wells
I use a 2" drum sander attachement on my cordless drill and have excellent results. I would prefer a larger drum but I've been able to get the results I want that function and look good.
Doug
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