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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 4/1/2004 herbn
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
Most of my dh boards have a hole in the tail to make it easier to tow the board while walking. I have a board with a titanium ring in that hole because (accidently) part of the foam core intersected the hole.... Now if you grooved the front of the board than snugly fit piece of hdpe in there,a sleeve running through the tail/nose would lock the plastic in, the sleeve can be made of a bondable material or beveled in a way that a bit of glue would keep the sleeve from sliding out.
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On 4/1/2004 Roboto PDX.
wrote in from
(63.242.nnn.nnn)
Herbn, I like your Idea for core material! Has anyone used Vlam Balsa as a core material? Like a snowboard or wakeboard? I have only seen Vlam oak being used.
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On 4/1/2004 duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
sounds cool herbn. how bout a no-splitty wood like ash at the nose and tail ? oak likes to part company, with itself. I've been trying to devise a way to put HMW pieces on the nose and tail, in the lay-up, but the uselessness of glue makes it mandatory to mechanically fit it in, maybe a plate that slide into undercuts all the way to the truck baseplates ?
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On 3/31/2004 herbn
wrote in from
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
My first new board,i put almost all of my old boards in a new wing of my museum.I'm like 95% rehabed from my crash. My new idea is a very classic pintail,mostly poplar, three layers of v-lam,with a middle crossgrain layer. Like a taperkick/maharajah with carbon and glass on either sides of the middle layer. I'm gonna cut strips of poplar as edges(of the blank)the strips will be the thickness of the board, then cut a groove in the side of the strip.Crossgrain strips will be .125 thick so they fit snugly into the groove,,the edges and the crossgrain will make sort of an I beam,and a channel for the top and bottom sheets to press tightly into. I'm thinking oak, or aluminum crossgrain pieces at the nose and tail,to add durability. I'd like to have just natural wood on the outside, and have all the carbon and glass technology hidden inside.
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On 3/30/2004
george g.
wrote in from
(162.42.nnn.nnn)
Thanks guys. I am still hoping to get the lathe-mill combo. Looks like it it is 110v. No problems with my little Lincoln welder or any other power tools. dryer plug would be reasonably accessable anyway. It comes with a lot of tools. The guy did not use all of it's functions. Grizzly is still in business. Same one new is about $800 + shipping. It is very clean. I just want to screw around with some of my own ideas. Accurize some trucks, mill some new baseplates, wedges out of aluminum and I have an idea for an adjustable wedge. Can't do it without my own machine. oh and shape some wheels and narrow some trucks and and and.......
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On 3/29/2004 Roboto PDX
wrote in from
(63.242.nnn.nnn)
Monghooste, How much does that board weigh?
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On 3/29/2004
Roboto PDX
wrote in from
(63.242.nnn.nnn)
I would not worry too much about power for your tools. I have run alot of different equip out of my home never with much trouble. If you do need 3 phase I would strongly recommend a rotary converter that turns normal 220 to 3 phase 220, I had a HUGE lathe (18" chuck) for a while and the trick to starting it was to have a few other 3 phase motors running at the time. each additional motor adds power to the third phase and also creates a buffer for the rest of your house. There are plans on line for turning a 3 phase motor into a rotary converter but it sounds like this equip will not be more then 220 single phase.
Good luck!
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On 3/29/2004
Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
What you really need to know is the phase of the motor on larger equipment. 220V single phase is a piece of cake to hook up in your house, eveyone has this power available unless your box is full. I hooked up mt table saw in one hour, including the obligatory Home Depot trip. Three phase power (3ph) is another matter, you don't have it in your house at all. Theoretically you can generate three phase but it takes an expensive converter, that sucks all the power out of the house and messes up your TV, I wouldn't do it personally. Professoinal tools like herbn's Unisaw come with your choice of single phase or three plase motors, depending upon whether you have the three phase available (almost all tool shops or production plants would). Ever notice the single phase pro tools on eBay go for more money ? The reason is thay can be used by homeowners, thus more bidders.
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On 3/28/2004
Steve Hopper
wrote in from
(207.202.nnn.nnn)
That's true. A lot of serious tools are available in 110V these days. And a lot of them are available in both. That is... the same tool will run either 110V or 220V (or 120V/240V). Those terms seem to be somewhat interchangeable as it allows for voltage drop over distance due to resistance in the wire. And herbn is absolutely right! Running a tool at 220V is a much more satisfying experience than running it at 110V. Double your power, double your pleasure! :) If you CAN run 220V, you absolutely should.
My main concern was that you have enough TOTAL power available at your house/shop. Most houses in my area (Seattle) have 200 amps total running to the house. This is standard for a 2-story house and will accomodate all the standard household utilities (with everything on). It's only when you start stacking up power tools in the shop that this can become an issue because you're feeding everything from the same main incoming line from the grid.
This may not be an issue for you at all, but it has been for me in the past so I'm just trying to pass on the warning. Power tools require power and the more the better. Don't get caught short! Or short-circuited. Damn... I'm hilarious! ;) I'll be here all weeks, folks. Please remember to tip your waitress. LOL
Steve
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On 3/27/2004 herbn
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
a lot of that smaller (semi)homeshop type of machinery is 110v, a lot of houses have 220,many airconditioners are 220. I've never done it, but my dad ran the 220 line for my 3 hp Delta Unisaw, by the way 3 hp 220 is a very different animal than 110v 3 hp.
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On 3/27/2004
Steve Hopper
wrote in from
(207.202.nnn.nnn)
George G,
$500 sounds like a great deal for that kind of equipment! But before you buy it and move it to your locale, you should make sure you have the necessary power supply to run it all. I'm guessing the lathe/mill will require at least a dedicated 240V line. I can't imagine it would be less than that. It would be terrible to get such a great setup and not be able to use it.
Depending on where you live and what your shop is like, adding more power can either be a no-brainer, or a nightmare. If you have to dig to run wire, run the biggest wire your local jurisdiction will allow.
Just a thought...
Steve
p.s. Nice work "bigalaska"!
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On 3/26/2004 Monghooste
wrote in from
(193.113.nnn.nnn)
Just finished my 6 footer, no ply solid rose wood made outta a wardrobe door, just over an inch thick with some good old trackers and some super G's. I thought I got a big responce on the 48" its nothin like the big gun, took it out round town today and flatland style is a dream with so much room to play with! Boardwalkin an coffin style and a near infinite number of pushing/board walkin combos. Plus check that inertia! I may have to cut out some tyres, tryin to stop the beast is an entirely new ball park.
cheers.
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On 3/24/2004
bigalaska
wrote in from
(4.43.nnn.nnn)
Thanks guys. The flex should be fine. It just gives me an excuse to construct a better one, Right?
My dad's a big chicken butt. I build lowrider bikes and goped also and I think he only rode on of my bikes and thats it. Mabie ill get him up on this board. It should be sturdy as none other, with the 180 mm trucks. I got my little brother hooked. He is a short one though, so I might give him my board, and i'll make a longer flexier board with concave. Thats the next goal. Concave. I also might try to make a jig to set the boards into. And then do custom boards by hand. Sell a few of them to friends and stuff. Im also going to help paint skim boards for my friend. I want to be a custom auto and bike painter. But do other things in the mean time, while im still learning. Griptape is also one of my things where i can't just leave it plain. It has to be just as cool as the underside graphically. So i made a sketch on the back of the griptape and cut it out with an exacto knife. I have some other stuff i have done like that. for my scooters and such.
Actually I lived in Alaska for 8 years and decided to move down to Washington to live with my dad for my Junior year, this year, and my senior year in highschool. There are way better hills here than there were in alaska by far. This place is all up and down hills. So It should be fun. I figured how to sneak it onto the bus this morning and plan to ride it home when ever possible, because its all downhill to my house from my highschool.
Glad you guys like them. I cant wait to hit a hill with my sister.
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On 3/24/2004 Roboto PDX
wrote in from
(63.242.nnn.nnn)
Thats:
I hope that flex works OUT for you...
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On 3/24/2004 Roboto PDX
wrote in from
(63.242.nnn.nnn)
Nice boards, the graphics are great!
I hope that flex works our for you. Post how they ride!
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On 3/23/2004 henry
wrote in from
(172.176.nnn.nnn)
Good work. I think that boards are nicely worked out, cool grip art! And, take your dad to the next downhill, let him get on there, make sure to give him a good shove (you really live up in the north? some BIG hills there, i guess), and if he comes back still alive i'm sure he'll be wanting to buy tons of wood for making himself one...
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On 3/19/2004
Doug K
wrote in from
(64.222.nnn.nnn)
Grrr,
Thank you! I thought my browser was f'ed up. I didn't know it was a post to this site.
Doug
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On 3/19/2004 Grrr
wrote in from
(203.51.nnn.nnn)
Just to finally push that stupid e-mail with all the !'s, that was screwing up the width of the page, off page one once and for all...
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On 3/18/2004
Roboto PDX
wrote in from
(63.242.nnn.nnn)
Having a machine shop is great! It will open you up to so many options that you never had before. $500 sounds like a great deal. I would go for it in a heartbeat!
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On 3/17/2004
george g.
wrote in from
(162.42.nnn.nnn)
Hey, some of you know me and some don't that's ok. I go to see a machinist the other day to see about getting some trucks worked on. Turns out he's got some personal issues and don't want to work. He is selling out, and moving to the city. So he says to me buy the whole darn thing, lathe, milling machine combo and cutting tools/some measuring devices etc for $500. Of course I am going to need two guys and a engine hoist to lift it and that is part of the deal, I move it. What do ya think? it is a Grizzly and it is pretty big. was $1400 in 2000. I kinda remember how to operate it. last time I operated a lathe was like 20 years ago. Just think, making my own base plates, axles-no problem, anybody got any thoughts?
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On 3/16/2004 hugh r
wrote in from
(69.166.nnn.nnn)
The lightning up idea sounds real sound... however, the rail connection still worries me... but that may have to do with my riding style. I tend to put a lot of pressure on my rails! Be careful!! HR
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On 3/16/2004 Roboto PDX
wrote in from
(63.242.nnn.nnn)
Thanks for the advice all! To start with Hugh’s question.
The wood step that
joins with the aluminum is 1/4" thick and 3/4" deep
the screw holes are spaced
every 2" This point is my greatest concern for
breakage I am relying on the
amount of surface contact and the fact
that most of my weight is on the aluminum under
the wood or exposed. As for carving out material,
I have started the process with some
test holes but after talking with some people
I think I am going to mill the surface with a
ball mill so I will have rounded slots
this will keep the underside of the aluminum intact
where the stress is greatest.
I added the tail block and modified the sides this weekend.
(It is looking much better now) As soon as
I add the nose I will post a little pic.
Thanks again everyone!
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On 3/16/2004 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
I'd also look at sliding the baseplates into slots, then tack welding "stops" to keep them from coming out of the slots, then epoxy in place. Look Ma, no bolts, super clean look
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On 3/16/2004 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
I think that board would be much better if the wood were allowed to be continuous across the width. Even with just 3 plies it would keep the cracks at bay, and keep the edges from sagging. I would also epoxy the whole thing together and scrap the screws, although with temperature change you may have problems, as the Al will expand in length much more than the wood.
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