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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 4/13/2004 herbn
wrote in from
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
Finnished assembly today, 3/4 inch risers made from scraps of birch ply, all i do is make beveled risers,like i did for world industries(they wanted them to be called "bedpans")a nice even 45 deg bevel on all sides i took some weight out of them with some fairly large forstner bits,i don't drill through. These risers really bring out the low ride height of my trucks(38mm axle to base) 1.75 bolts come up a bit short,i'll end up with 2.0's and i'll probabely pin the risers to the board with carbon rod.
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On 4/12/2004 herbn
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
Beee utiful!! this board came out great,flex is spot on,sort of stiff but springy.Perhaps 3/8 inch sag under my paltry 165 lbs.A bit more epoxy coating, a bit of a rub down of the edges and wheelwells( when i make them) With my trucks on there i'd have to notch the flowing outline for wheel clearence,with .5 to .75 riser i'll still be lower than randals,right at indy ride height, i'll play around with a higher more leveraged turn, on a super low geometry truck, i can always drop it and notch it later.
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On 4/12/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(216.80.nnn.nnn)
If you've ever skated a classic surf shape like Doug Yartz used to carve out of plain ol' pine would understand how rolling the edges added surface area and opened up the grip.
I've always wondered if the first concave deck was just one that got left out in the rain...
...that is exactly how I came to own my bro's deck, which warped, it actually twisted. Twist one way and it sorta works for goffy footers like me. Twist the other way and it kinda works for reglar footed people like my brothers (their loss). Aint nature just grand?
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On 4/12/2004
koo
wrote in from
(24.126.nnn.nnn)
soak your board! it makes it flexy and shapable(you could make it concave or have a warp tail
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On 4/12/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
"urban":) for some reason i knew you'd understand...
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On 4/11/2004 herbn
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
I liked the idea of the ollie ridges and was sanding them into my homemades of the time, i used to even put one just a bit up the tail(past the obvious break point. I even sanded a bevel into the sides of the tail at the base, it seemed to make standing slides cooler/ more controlable. I used z blanks at the time,or "naked boards" blanks, i was always trying to get them made as 6 ply with glass.
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On 4/11/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(216.80.nnn.nnn)
I remember seeing the crescent shaped sander gouges Skip Engbloom put into some old SMA decks back around '87 (or whoever made the decks for him anyway). Seeing that deck top feature made me realize that there must have been a kindred spirit out there somewhere. Realizing that these were simply meant to act as "ollie ridges" still meant that the concept of a contoured deck feature was not on their minds. To be honest I really didn't appreciate this feature at the time because it weakened a deck when applied this way. Now I see this happening one some of my designs (a feature I just can't seem to avoid) so now I'm wondering if this deck is gonna be good for ollies. Heck if you can't beat 'em might as well join 'em...
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On 4/10/2004 herbn
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
err very,,white piece of poplar.I'm liking internal carbon/glass more and more. You use less of that expensive carbon stuff, you put it right where it's needed and you're not exposed to fibers/carbon dust when finnishing. I'm pressing with flat plates so the fiber laminates get a bit more pressure, the thickness also create very slightly thicker glue seams at the edges,mightr be good for durability. Lets see my core is three parts with an eighth inch cross grain in the middle and slightly thicker(around .160-.180)surface cores. Normally ,when you stand on a board the bottom glass is mostly stressed,the top gets some stress if you have a tail,and you put weight on it ,this stresses the top sheet across the back truck. I have both layers of carbon/glass under tension, the upper is under the top sheet and the lower glass is under the cross grains. I think i'm really gonna like this board, i'll round off the edges then trim(to avoid trimmers tendency to chip the surface, then reround the board. Test for flex,i think the board could use just a bit more flex so i'll try to bevel the edges of the bottom. I'm trying to avoid the super low rides i've had in the past, i think i like the low roll center of a very compact truck(the ones i make) but i'll throw some risers in there so i'll have a bit more leverage over the truck. The board i made is a 42x10 shape that's best described as a some what symetric pintail ("double sided pinnose") 2.3 nose 3.8 tail, 31.5 w.b. Right now i feel like i should make the same shape i the same construction in 38 46 and 50 inch lengths with little adjustments in core thickness to get nice amounts of flex. All with my trucks. so many boards to make , so little time.
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On 4/10/2004 herbn
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
My board is almost done.!!!I have several posts worth of questions,hypothesii,and just plain ol observations. First off, poplar..is it strong? this board certainly seems to be very strong, quite stiff,,,i'm thinking it might be stiff but have a low tolerence for being flexed,,that's ok,i'm not jumping on it/off of any thing,and probabely won't even let anybody else ride it. It's love at first sight,smooth as mylar epoxy on wood finnish with a red a yellow and a green strips of wood,dyed before gluing,many strips of poplar,i picked a greenish piece and a very pail piece... ehh gotta go
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On 4/8/2004
long board rich
wrote in from
(198.81.nnn.nnn)
I am interested in making my own gas powered skateboard. Anyone out there done that? Got any tips or suggestions. I know I could buy one complete off the net but I want to make my own. Any help is appreciated.
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On 4/8/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
Been taking my sweet time shaping the latest version of the slalom deck, as I heal up. It's gonna be carbon wrapped foam with a wood core. Started it some time in March (last year) and have been carefully working it to perfection. If you've seen my wicked shapes you'd understand.
Lately though I've commenced shaping another deck that I've been dreaming of since 1974. The contour's shape has changed only slightly since then but the rudimentary aspects of this design remains intact. Skitch Hitchcock's work is the inspiration for this design. The material I have to work with was laid up into blanks 25 - 30 years ago so no chance of you getting your hands on this kind of quality.
Sure wish I could help you guys out w/some suggestions but the shapes in my head just need a way out...
piece
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On 4/8/2004 Dave
wrote in from
(67.164.nnn.nnn)
12mm Baltic birch. How long of a deck WB inside holes can
I make with 12mm? I would like to go 48-60" deck with 38-50"
WB. I could double the 12mm for 24mm or add 3mm for 15mm
Thanks
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On 4/7/2004 Hugh
wrote in from
(211.28.nnn.nnn)
hello everyone
I live in australia and i have been reading posts on this forum for a while. I am about to start building a mountainboard using 2mm birch ply, i was thinking of using 5 ply all up (10mm) with a fibre glass outer shell. i am using a two part epoxy system called 'bote cote' to glue the ply together, its a standard 1:1 mix. i have a mould ready to clamp it all together into shape, toe to heel concave and a nose to tail convex with a very small kick at each end. all the materials cost me an arm and a leg so i dont want to stuff it up! could you provide my with any suggestions?
Has anyone had any experiences with using these materials? Do they have good flex? Should i add a layer of fibre mesh in between the ply to add strength ? do i need to soak the ply first? whats the best way to make sure my board wont snap?
kind regards !
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On 4/7/2004 RoverT
wrote in from
(69.144.nnn.nnn)
do you all soak they wood? How thick of layers would it be.
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On 4/7/2004
Jestah
wrote in from
(219.88.nnn.nnn)
now i get ya...
i was fully thinking endgrain which is a real bugger as supplyers want to sell a full box rather than single sheets...
to make a big plank do you suggest taping deck side just in case it sticks (dont want big tape strips under the graphics)then using glue (what about epoxy?) and then all in a vac press (since im just making core setting in a cambered mold would be a waist of time?)
even balsa is rather expensive compared to poly. but as you said is feel a hell of a lot stronger and would is nice :)
thanks
Jestah
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On 4/7/2004 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
I don't know what your situation is there, but here balsa is pretty inexpensive. For the filler usage, I don't think end grain is needed, the flat sheets suplied at hobby stores will do nicely, and in many thicknesses. Length shouldn't matter, it isn't common to find it over 36" but the seams don't really matter. You pay much more when it gets wide, so it is better to just use a standard cheap width like 3" and seam it. You can tape it together with packing tape on the back side before cutting and fitting, and pull the tape off after it is glued down. A vacuum pump is handy for these glue tasks, for clamping, but use lower pressure, just a couple psi. Titebond II is what I use. Forget Gorilla glue (urethane), it will make you a very angry person.
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On 4/6/2004 RoverT
wrote in from
(172.195.nnn.nnn)
some more questions.
1) How thin should each layer I use be?
2) What should I ask for when I go to shop for wood?
3) How many plys should a desent carving board be?
4) How would a board ride made out of a solid piece of 3/4 inch hard wood ride about 4 feet long?
Thanks for the help
Trevor
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On 4/6/2004 RoverT
wrote in from
(172.195.nnn.nnn)
What kind of glue does one use to glue their board?
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On 4/6/2004
jestah
wrote in from
(210.54.nnn.nnn)
thanks for the feedback Duane. I was thinking balsa for a long time but the cost is the down side for me. I also am not the gratest fan of foam but after using a low densty poly. as a mold i was pritty happy with it. It will need to be coated with a epoxy and microbaloon mix then layed up or it will be just as resin hungry as any endgrain. Shearing is the gratest concern with ploy. but hay learn and live and learn. (have you seen the new tufflight surfboard they are makeing? epoxy and ploy board that are pritty dent resistant)
more feed back would be wicked as already im thinking i could try balsa if i can get it in 5-6mm sheets (with out having to buy 500sheets) i also wanted the ploy for its white colour but i gess i could just paint the balsa with a white epoxy.
thanks
Jestah
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On 4/6/2004 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
I'd have a tendency to grab balsa wood for the filler, not polystyrene. Balsa glues to the other woods securely, won't be chemically attacked, shapes easier, and gives far better strength at the core / fiber interface. It also does not shrink, not now, or later (as I've been burned by foams, both ways). Try ripping a small chunk out of styrene with your fingernail, easy. Now try the balsa, not so easy. the fingernail test is a good indication of shear strength at the interface, foams fare poorly compared to wood. If weight is a concern, dust the balsa lightly with a spray of resin, to seal before lamination, an old airplane builder's trick. Don't worry about using multiple pieces, just fit tightly and it does not matter. I don't like foam, if you've noticed. A neat way to make an ultra-light board would be to rout out an existing deck or blank from below, leave a ply or 2 and full rails, fill with balsa, and cap with the exotic fiber of your choice. Truck pockets, box sections, etc. Finish with plastic slide rails for protection.
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On 4/5/2004
Jestah
wrote in from
(219.88.nnn.nnn)
Gidday all
For all the old times: giddy good to read what you have been up to
everyone else ... wow. Iv got a bit of catching up to do.
After a good skate the other day I met up with some local kids who did the "whooo that’s huge what can you do on that" and so on. After a quick few slide they asked wont it snap? so I did the jump on it till it hits the ground... well most time this works.... this time I didn’t spring back... oh well "It just gives me an excuse to construct a better one, Right?" nice way of seeing things and also a wicked deck bigalaska and don’t worry about the underflex IMHO they make sweet decks to soulride on. don’t worry too much about the grain either ( I did the same thing and it should hold up until you get another deck out of the press just don’t show anyone how your deck will never snap like I did)
Herbn, wow is all I can say! if you ever want to escape the Us and come live in Nz ill put you up and feel free to use my shop... its strange that we don’t get more downhill skaters here as we have NICE hills and not too many cars, admittedly a lot of sheep but not that many cars
My new deck is going to be odd. I’m thinking wood, polystyrene and glass mix. As much as I loved my last carbon decks which where very much about function this deck will be more about form.
My plan so far is to lay up a simple ply deck (cambered pintail), cut the shape out
then cut inside the rail to give me a 1-2cm border then ill fill the middle with the poly and use the glass to skin it. triaxil would work but it doesn’t finish that well and has coloured lines so I might use uni and cloth cut on the bias. I still hope to keep it light (900g-1.5kgs) and quite flexy as I want a new carving deck.
any feedback wanted as its all very much an idea
good luck to everyone out there
Jestah
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On 4/4/2004 herbn
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
it came out great, one little flaw, a side strip didn't seat 100%, when i put in the top and bottom strips(length wise) ,I'll have to wedge in some slivers of wood in the sides to close up all the glue seams tight, not a big deal at all. The mylar worked great, it should be reusable, and it's gonna make the final surface finnish of this board excellent. This should be one of my smoothest decks yet.
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On 4/3/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(216.80.nnn.nnn)
...and you gotta be careful with those fumes.
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On 4/3/2004 herbn
wrote in from
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
murphys law, what can go wrong? batterys in your scale die,spill glue on scale,container to small to hold correct ratio, spill glue,gloves come in two pair packs so you of course bring two lefts down to the shop,breather mask seems to be a bit clogged,parts to be glued don't go together that well,mix to much glue, decide to do some carbon right away with the extra glue,can't find the big roll of carbon cloth,to much glue,leaks out and will glue press parts together,get ratio wrong and glue doesn't set,to little glue cloth soaks it up and things fall apart.N,N,N,N,Y,Y,Y,N,Y,N,N,i always have doubts on the ratio and mix, i think it's the cool temp in my basement that stretchs out the drying time and raises doubts. I'll try to take pics and send them to hugh, tommorrow or monday. I love making boards.
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On 4/3/2004 herbn
wrote in from
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
ok ash, ash it is, put some ash i the nose, and some ash in the tail, i'll strategically place the oak cross grains under my feet. I still like the idea of putting the fiber stuff inside, both carbon and glass. I don't think the maximum springboard is the best thing for riding, so my surface fibers will be wood. Hell if it comes out a bit soft i can always sand down and glass the surfaces of the board with some 2 oz.My crossgrain is setup and ready for glue, i've bought some fresh particle board,as press plates,and wrapped them in mylar. Mylar is a bit of a hassle at first but by the second plate it's fine,the resulting finnish should be nice. On UHMw inlays, uhmw will flair on impact so if you havewood above and bellow,it'll start a delamination. Snowboard companies use abs, which seems like a harder version of pvc,both pvc and abs can be bought from plastic distributors, look up plastic wholesalers/retailers in your yellow pages or any other search engine.
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