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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 4/30/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
now that's good thinkin' g...
...one of the trucks we're assembling is gonna be from scratch so we can probably get away with trying something like this. cnova always gets twisted up whenever i make changes in design during production. i just get a kick out of it when his arms go up in the air and he tells me that that he'll give me the drawings so that i can do it all myself. heheheh
i still want to imbed a thruster into one of my decks in order to eliminate the need for wheel wells. just got to get my paws on a sealed version w/very low profile. but here's another option that came to mind:
6) lien arrestors (in honor of "urban":)
I can see these outrigger type things that stop the truck's ability to lean at the point where the wheel would start to bite. these appendeges would tuck right into some washers like the ones that came w/the original copers. hmmmmmm.... not another one of those knucklehead idears!
john: i believe that the decks get a camber when they are put into the mold during layup never got loaded but others like indiana seem to be that way. well, i did get loaded but that's another story... ouch!
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On 4/30/2004
george g.
wrote in from
(159.87.nnn.nnn)
Thrust bearing, I been thinking about milling down a truck base and putting one under the bottom bushing, say like instead of a washer. Anybody ever tried that one? My thoughts were the bushing would no longer bind but rotate. who knows i haven't tried it yet.... they use thrust washers/bearings behind enginge cams they should hold up...
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On 4/29/2004 herbn
wrote in from
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i'm not sure about the use of the thrust bearing, for wheelbite?,mount them on the board, at the point of wheelbite so when the wheel hits it spins the bearing, instead of stopping.It would rattle at all other times,i think that was the thread.
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On 4/29/2004
John Stefanic
wrote in from
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I was wondering how some longboard manufacturers (Loaded and Insect) get the camber in their boards... I am very interested in building a board like my Loaded, but a lot longer. How do they flex the wood like that? Are the fiberglass layers what holds the shape? Do they bend the wood the way they want and then cure the fiberglass to hold the shape? Any help would be appreciated.
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On 4/29/2004 silversurfer
wrote in from
(24.62.nnn.nnn)
Alan, would that be something like the Carver truck. It uses a thrust bearing in the truck. Very strange, but very cool.
Have you seen their videos? Check them out at www.carverskateboards.com.
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On 4/29/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
BWAAaaa!!! I'm diein' ova hea...
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On 4/29/2004 DAve G
wrote in from
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Yeah..but the smell of cookin' bacon on those morning runs would keep ya' at it!
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On 4/29/2004 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
Yea, my experiment with mounting blocks of fatback above the wheels, eliminated wheelbite altogether. However, I seemed to experience a sudden loss of traction after a sharp turn...
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On 4/29/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(216.80.nnn.nnn)
Well... My idea sorta worked. Can't say I'd suggest it to anyone at this point and time though.
I found a way to mount a thrust bearing (see picture) on an adjustable riser (slots instead of holes) so that I can accurately position it relative to the wheel but it probably won't get too far...
...because it rattled like a tambourine and could never pass the hangover test (ouch!).
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On 4/28/2004
frank
wrote in from
(24.170.nnn.nnn)
ha oh well!!! Sucks making yourself have more fun. I put on some tracker 215's on the 9.5"er i just made. They fit perfect with the cut outs. If i get around to bigger wheels i'll have to cut more off the nose or move the truck up. HELL YEA!!!!
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On 4/28/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
Okay...
...you guys are in trouble now that ya got me thinkin' about wheel bite.
I'm one of those guys who likes trucks low and loose so mostly just resign myself to a little bit of wheelbite. Some of the current solutions are:
1) make your trucks higher
2) use smaller wheels
3) carve out some wheel wells or cut it out altogether
4) live with it...
5) put something between the wheels and deck that has little or no resistance
What I'm thinking of has to be low profile light and irresistible! Probably helped if it didn't require invasive hardware installation. You guys starting to get the picture. I'll see about putting something together before the Chicago premier of Tent City or sometime tomorrow whenever the hangover dissipates.
Dagnammit! Not another project!!!
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On 4/28/2004
frank
wrote in from
(24.153.nnn.nnn)
Yea your going to wheel bite with those trucks provided you put some decent size wheels on there. You could also put risers and tighten down the trucks so it all depends on how you will be enjoying your new ride.
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On 4/28/2004 James
wrote in from
(152.78.nnn.nnn)
Continuing the previous post, I'm going to mount Indy 166's (9" wide) on 1/2" risers with 65mm wheels; should I be worried about putting cutouts in to avoid wheel bite?
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On 4/28/2004 James
wrote in from
(152.78.nnn.nnn)
Hey, working on my first time board, 44" x 10". just wondering what sort of wheelbase I need for a fairly relaxed carving/cruising board? I've been guessing at around 31"-32", but that looks a little short.
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On 4/28/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
Thanks Duane, I'm gonna have to get some 'o dat stuff for the next time. Right now I'll take your advice on on the 30/0/30 layout with some left over triaxial stevem got a while back and cover that up with some of that other stuff you sent me a while back (technical mumbo jumbo). Wait a minute, guess we've been doing that all along.
Spent most of yesterday evening setting the glassing station/roll-away bar. So nice to be able to have everything out of the way and within reach (the beer that is). I'm gonna help cnova lay this stuff up in a couple of days and we want everything perfect.
Maybe I'll give you a call...
Good stuff btw Yan0, you too frank! Always something to learn from what other people are doin'...
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On 4/28/2004
frank
wrote in from
(24.153.nnn.nnn)
Heres what I just finished. It's 2 layers of glass (weather its anygood or not who knows), 3 layers 1/8" birch. 44"x9.5 26" wb
http://thebiggerpic.com/gallery/view_album.php?page=1
I just wanted a big ass board. Now I need to make the trip to new mexico
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On 4/27/2004
Yan0
wrote in from
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Allright, just finished mounting up the board with fiberglass. As I may have mentioned, there are two layers of glass (REALLY thin (1.45 oz/ sq yrd) glass)alligned 90-0 between a panel of 5 ply, and a panel of 3 ply. After I took it out of the press, I was a little dissapointed, so I skinned it with two more layers, alligned 45+-, one on the top, one on the bottom. I only got to try it quickly, but the board is noticably snappier, and more torsionally sollid than my other boards. Check it out at http://www.geocities.com/runyan0/pages/projects/board7.html .
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On 4/27/2004 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
For contoured cores make sure to use the harness weave carbon, marked 5HS or 8HS most often. It takes the contours much more easily than plain weave, and is a bit stronger. I've seen baseballs wrapped with 8HS, no wrinkles, so I'm sure it will take the contours of your core.
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On 4/27/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(216.80.nnn.nnn)
Just finished shaping a deck that I started about this time last year. The closer I got to finishing the more afraid I got of messing it up. It's the same slalom shape I've been refining for a while now but this time it also has foam along with its laminated wood core. If you want to see a picture of a previous version I've posted it up on the Pumping forum.
Good timing on my part is that this thread now gives me more insight into the next step of skinning the dang thing. I've always appreciated Duane's expertise in this area... if you haven't realized it this guy is the guy big industry goes to when they want to talk polymers of one sort or another.
I'd say that I would have to concur with the experts here in re: to licking the center of a tootsie roll pop. Though I find it profound that people here seem to think that the core of a deck can have only two dimensions...
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On 4/27/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(216.80.nnn.nnn)
Just finished shaping a deck that I started about this time last year. The closer I got to finishing the more afraid I got of messing it up. It's the same slalom shape I've been refining for a while now but this time it also has foam along with its laminated wood core. If you want to see a picture of a previous version I've posted it up on the |
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On 4/27/2004
psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(216.80.nnn.nnn)
Just finished shaping a deck which I started at about this time last year. The closer I got to finishing the more afraid I was of messing it all up. It's the same slalom shape I've been refining for a while now but this time it also has foam along with its laminated wood core. If you want to see a picture of a previous version I've posted it up on the |
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On 4/26/2004 herbn
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
glass in the middle, it's still under tension from the "core" that's on top,and it adds rebound to the core underneath, but somewhat less effectively, i like the three layer design,but when i figured realized thatm, since i make my own coresm, i use a 1/8 inch thick saw blade(standard) and the cores are just a bit thicker than that,i make about a boards worth of saw dust. I think i used maybe 35 dollars worth of poplar on my last board. I bought more wood and with a single core(glass top and bottom) 14 bucks bought more than enough wood for a board.
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On 4/26/2004 Roboto PDX
wrote in from
(63.242.nnn.nnn)
YAN 0
I also doubt that putting the glass in the center will have much effect for stiffness. (unless it is concave) But Hey give it a try. Perhaps the board will have other nice properties. (Flexy yet strong?) anyways let us know how it works out. I understand your desire for glass inside the wood. Anyone who rides a board over curbs and parks would know why glass on the outside is not great.
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On 4/26/2004
Kendel
wrote in from
(69.33.nnn.nnn)
Going way back to basic engineering strength of materials class and what I've managed to retain in the interim, when wood (deck)is placed under a load (rider) between 2 bearing points (trucks) the forces within vary from highest compression on top to highest tension on the bottom. It is generally considered that these forces cancel each other out at exactly the middle of the thickness. So placing a fiberglass layer in the middle will do very little to change the properties of the wood being used (in terms of flexing.) The closer to either the top or bottom the 'glass is placed, the more it will do to alter the properties of the wood.
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On 4/26/2004
Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
Re: glass location. Fibers work by resisting elongation. They do not work by resisting flexure. You can easily flex a glass or carbon fiber, in fact both will easily break when flexed. But, when you pull them, or try to elongate them, that is where the magic is. If you put the glass in the middle, then you add exactly as much stiffness as if you just laid up the glass by itself. Try flexing that. Almost no resistance to flex (as a single layer of glass / resin). It might add 10% to deck stiffness but I doubt even that.When the glass is top and bottom, and you try to flex the board, the bottom skin will try to stretch (it has a larger radius of curvature), such that the fibers running 0 degrees (nose to tail) try to stretch. Glass is mighty tough to stretch, and the full potential of the glass is realized by using its tensile strength properties. The effect is exponential with core thickness, so 1/2" core is about 8 times stiffer than 1/4" core. Carbon has well over double the tensile strength of S-glass, so double the reinforcing potential per weight. BTW, 0/90 glass becomes -45/45 degree glass, just rotate the sheet 45 degrees !!! The angle refers to the relative orientation of the fibers, feel free to rotate it to do your bidding (I think -30/30 degrees is best to limit torsion, but you have to lay up unidirectional to get that, or the rare knit triaxial glass, sometimes available -30/0/30 rather than -45/0/45 for that reason, for snowboards)
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