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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 5/7/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
...an julie wonders why she gets all itchy around me.
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On 5/7/2004 DAve G
wrote in from
(207.69.nnn.nnn)
Re; Duanes fibre coat chaos...Hmmm.. Claude said He thought the room they had at the Gathering was the same one from last time... Wonder if anyone complained about the bath tub, and breaking out in a fierce rash shortly after bathing?? Just a thought
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On 5/7/2004 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
watch them carbon splinters...and itchies. I had to throw away a coat once due to carbon dust, from a Dremel cut-off wheel. It simply wouldn't wash out. My boss at the old furniture shop drank a cup of paint thinner once, and then the poison control center wouldn't believe him when he said he drank 4 ounces (he chugged first and asked questions later, it was 98 degrees)my stack of blanks is going to turn into compost soon if I don't get moving...time for some bargain eBay carbon. I'd like to try some resin infusion experiments, not sure how it would get through the wood layer, the core stuff made for infusion has little holes in it. There is no reason resin can't be infused from both sides at once, with two feed lines, or, just do one side at a time might be easier, the "bottom" could be sealed off with tacky tape to stop the resin from going under (I think). or maybe infuse it from one end, that way there is no flaw from the resin line entry point. yeah, that's probably the way to go, just distrubute the resin down one side first with a punctured tube inside the bag. if they can get resin to infuse 30 feet in a boat, a foot across a board should be cake. Experiments like this are best served up with straight glass first, ruining carbon gets expensive, learn to lay up with glass and get good at that, at $1 a pound instead of $17. And, you can see the resin in glass, with carbon you are blind, you can't see when it is properly wetted out.
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On 5/7/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
the tail fairing on my '97 900se is all chewed up from where it keeps hitting the fin of my 9' jack's... it sure could use some 'o dat detail an' attention.
our shop's set up a roll-away glassing station/wet bar converted from an industrial quality bread rack on wheels (metro brand in stainless). put a 2'x 4' sheet of hdpe on top of something like the picture below but w/o the handles schweeeeet! pump plugs into outlet strip secured on the cart.
slappin' some glass on top just to seal off the 30/30 and twill on the bottom. glass just ties it all together not really providing much more than skin over the contoured foam features on the top of the deck. the wooden center of 6 plys (3+3 birch) forms the structure in conjunction with the two layers of carbon over foam on the belly. totally clued in just goin by duane's posts of late not realizing that i had all the stuff he was talking about all along.
laying up carbon, grinding carbon, sanding carbon, wondering if that cup you drank from was used to mix (oops!). just got a shop cat... good thing it's all black!
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On 5/7/2004 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
Its been too long since I've smelled the resin. Now I've got my own shop again for the first time in years, and now that the plumbing works, its on to bigger and better things. I did the most exquisite fiberglass work yesterday, perfect cutting and fitting, highly contoured work. I suspect no Saab has ever recieved so fine a floorboard patch.
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On 5/6/2004 hugh r
wrote in from
(69.166.nnn.nnn)
http://www.longboard_skating.homestead.com/herbns_stuff11.html
herbn's newest thing! Second pic on the page... hey dude, check your email! HR
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On 5/6/2004 hugh r
wrote in from
(24.48.nnn.nnn)
Hey Herbn,
The pic came through... I plan on doing some web updating tonight, so I should be able to have that up this evening! HR
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On 5/5/2004
joseph
wrote in from
(211.30.nnn.nnn)
i have found my solution! i have sourced a sheet of birch ply. 20 plys and only 10mm thick! bloody expensive but oh well. and as for the extra pounds i myself weigh about 200 pounds.
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On 5/5/2004 Dave
wrote in from
(67.164.nnn.nnn)
Joseph/Wood slalom
I used 12mm baltic bitch for a TS 17"-18"
WB deck. If 12mm flexes too much on your GS
deck add a 3mm birch riser spine down the
center. Make wheel wells with round sure-form
blade (it looks like a cheese grater.)
Don't worry about deck weight. It is a
down hill sport. Many very fast racers
are packing more than a few extra pounds.
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On 5/5/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
i can't express how lucky i am to be able to concentrate on the design specifics, whilst leaving the technical aspects of gluing and composite work to cnova. this allows me to live in my little dream world devoid of facts and details yet still able to provide input to the proceedings.
last night we bagged (for the third time) the latest version of the wicked dubbed "le baracuda" by cfavero. this is the deck i started assembling and shaping last may when skatevalencia was in town. bagged once for carbon tow in the complex edges then once per layer for the 30/30 then the twill and still one more session under the pump left for the top glass then we should be done all that would be left is to build the trucks but that's mostly cnova's headache. no time for practice, no time for working out, probably be testing this at the races as usual. this is what it's all about. freak brothers' racing!!!
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On 5/4/2004
Jeff M
wrote in from
(206.127.nnn.nnn)
I made a deck out of one single piece of wood. its workin ok but i am now making one out of 2 sheets of three ply maple. i am also goin to press it so i need to know what kind of glue i can use effectively. thanks
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On 5/4/2004 herbn
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
well ,my e-mail didn't come back so hugh must have a pic of my newest latest and greatest,well kind of.
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On 5/4/2004
brad
wrote in from
(64.136.nnn.nnn)
Herbn,
you're right....like I said .0314...not 003....anyway, yeah, the amount of glue needed is enough for 1/16th inch plies, let alone what would probably be a 15 ply half glue deck with .03 plies. I would like to see someone cut 12" X 48" pieces of that!
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On 5/4/2004
joseph
wrote in from
(211.29.nnn.nnn)
forgot with this type of construction am i going to have problems with torsional flexing?
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On 5/4/2004
joseph
wrote in from
(211.29.nnn.nnn)
i am wanting to make a slalom board for bigger g/s and super g/s courses along with some freecarving. i've made the template and it is 80 centimetres long (32 inches) by 24 centimetres wide (9.6 inches). It is simalar to an ick retro flattie in appearance but still a bit original.
i am making this board out of wood with no composite materials. how can i build it really stiff while still keeping it light?
if i used a spine how thin could the top plies that make the overall shape be? ie 4 maple plies sufficient with a 5 ply spine? also what width should i make the spine? i am going to have the spine run between the trucks so when i use wedged risers it does not end up too high. would it be stronger if i had the spine run all the way to the end but i chisseled out some plies at the end of the spine and mounted it like that (ie at the end of the spine where the trucks would be mounted take away 2 plys from the 5 ply spine)? would a hardwood spine be more rigid whilst not being to heavy?
basically i'm just looking for ideas to keep an all wooden slalom board as light and rigid as possible. and if i went with the above spine idea how wide the spine should be and made out of what etc...
sorry about the leingthy and confusing question...
joseph
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On 5/3/2004 herbn
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
1 mm=approx .040 so 4/5(=.8) of a millimeter would be .032(about) thin but not .003(that's thin paper), ican see it for an easy vacuum bend, complex and sudden contours, but thats a lot of glue and will make a heavy dead deck.
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On 5/2/2004
Brad
wrote in from
(64.136.nnn.nnn)
Al,
.8 millimeter thick? hmmm a little math here...25.4 millimeters to the inch...
1/25.4 * .8 = .0314 of an inch. 3/100 of an inch thick? why so thin? I don't know if anyone can cut it that thin. We get 1/16" (.0625")...with splices on the crossband...it's not a problem really..You got a hydraulic press? distribute that weight now....the mold is about 500 - 700 lbs in concrete...you got some work ahead of you...mold...weight distribution...humidity levels...e-mail me.
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On 5/1/2004
george g.
wrote in from
(162.42.nnn.nnn)
A yeah, maybe this is the home-made site board site, but uh when I am sitting here looking at some brass and aluminum stock, it is homemade (trucks) to me. The hardest thing is finding axles that I can use, and trying to remember how to make threads (settings-lathe speeds etc...)I got a friend who will cyrogenic a few axles for me if I want. Heat treating well, got a send them out to do that or crudely heat treat them myself according to some old but probably still good formulas from the Machinist's handbook. I used to think it was b/s and for the most part it is, but when I am working for .5 seconds it does matter. every stock truck I have chucked is crooked, of course a couple wacks with a mallet has saved 1 or 2 hohoho...
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On 5/1/2004 Dave
wrote in from
(67.164.nnn.nnn)
Plank Slalom
Bushing Twist: I made a plank slalom
deck from 12mm BB. It has very slight
flex. Cheap,simple and rides good.
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On 4/30/2004 herbn
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
wouldn't having misaliegned truck eliminate any sort of "sympathetic harmonics" or that sort of feedback effect that speedwobbles have,they do seem to have sort of a resonance feel, like one truck starts the wobble and the other picks it up amplifies it, wouldn't poorly aliegned truck feed back at a lower efficiency,i think stability is in the ankles of the rider,the best rider won't make the shtiest trucks work but they'll be better than when a less stabile skater is riding them. Any play, any pivot slop,can start a wobble, the ankles fail to stabilize/compensate, and it does seem to take over both trucks, because they are connected by a piece of wood with torsional rigidity,if a board has less torsional rigidity ,that doesn't mean you won't get wobbles they'll just be more in the "bad" truck (the one that's a lttle sloppier)and i think torsional rigidity lets the ankle do a better job at steadying things. I havn't gotten a defeating case of wobbles since maybe 82,that's 1982 with stamped steel "california" trucks, sort of a bahne truck knock off,they had very sloppy steel on steel pivots, a few 20 foot steps across a damp green lawn.
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On 4/30/2004
AL
wrote in from
(206.131.nnn.nnn)
HELP!!! I NEED TO KNOW WHERE I CAN BUY OR ORDER 0.8 Milimeter(thick) maple veneer at least 9" wide with no splices. I have studied how to make a concrete mold WITH CONCAVE and press the deck and I know what glue to use and EVERYTHING! all I need is the friggin' maple veneer so I can make a great quality and high performance deck. Please dont suggest other materials, I am dead set on using maple(sugar maple, canadian maple, hard rock maple, whatever you want to call it) please email me if you know. als_irrigation@msn.com
Thank you, and keep bombing those hills! I will too.
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On 4/30/2004 george g.
wrote in from
(159.87.nnn.nnn)
The more I measure trucks the more I get confused. It is truly a wonder some of them work at all. I mean the axles are all out of cahilter (did I spell that?)they are drilled wrong, bushings need alterations yet they do a pretty good job until we push them to the limits. As for speed wobbles, all I can tell you is 3 years ago I got scared to death, now I will get on a 30" board with even looser narrow trucks and hit 30+ easy. there are guys that do 50+ with Indy's. and i know there are people that can hit 40+ on 100mm+/- width trucks. I think that there is a lot more room for modification. Sure there are axle relacements and offsets. Radikal is probably the most precision machined "bushing type" truck. Seismics are different. PVD's are super engineered and so complicated I don't understand em but work real well for some guys. I guess Randall's are the most accepted for downhill. I have seen Roger Hickey's speed deck and those trucks were all handmade. I do know that it takes time to make/replace bushings- adjustments, both trucks should have something different to them so that harmonics thing doesn't get in the way. I like some riser that can absorb vibration. Then how much do wheels and bearing effect the darn trucks? There are so many variables I feel like we are still in skateboarding infancy and just beginning to explore where we can go. It is a bunch of fun. sometimes things that work don't make sense. Then try to figure in how much the board effects it all too. I had this one board, I though it was junk, 2 years later with a truck change and some radical adjustments, it is killer, go figure.
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On 4/30/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
the randals i've seen seem to have a skewed drill pattern. like after they're molded the tooling finish jigs had come out of alignment. this led me to explore the possibility of mounting the trucks off kilter (asymetric) because we unless we ride a "planker" the deck twists due to the riders weight. by drilling your deck so that the trucks do not align propperly like you would otherwise intend it to, you might be able to "offset" this to some degree. on another note if your deck steers a little crab-like when you ride, like my randals do now before alteratiion, it might prevent the speed wobbles caused by sympathetic harmonics... yada, yada, yada...
so basically i guess you can say that i'm a proponent for warped and twisted, misdrilled decks that don't ride straight.
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On 4/30/2004 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
that would be 9 ply's of MAPLE. Oh shut up
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On 4/30/2004 Bushing twist
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
I think that's one of the reasons that Randal-type geometry works so much better. Better in the sense of a pure turn. the bushings don't get twisted much, and the pivot bushing does a pure job, instead of getting severely tweaked like in a conventional truck. The things I don't like about Randals are the height, and the way the axles are so far inboard of the mounting holes. This last thing forces you to mount the baseplates farther fore and aft, and with wheel cut-outs, the narrow part of the cut-out tends to twist. I think that is a big part of wobbles, my 5/8" ply boards would always wobble at 40 mph, twist of the deck in the back, I think. 9 plys of male is better to resist this. Future boards with 6 ply of maple and box sections around the truck mounts (sort of a double beamer, with baseplate width in between), carbon skinned, should have about 0 twist. I'll let the center damp a bit, by having very little or no carbon running 0 degrees.I'm cutting some Randals down to 3.75" wide for slalom, I've been running a 4.25" Randal rear for a year, I like it. I figure It'll be damn close to Radikals, and a non-Radikal price. I'm going to make a "plank" slalom board out of the same 6-ply, and a lot of glass and carbon, full bodied and stiff as hell. I'll sand in serious wheelwells, before skinning. Good deals on the 'bay lately for carbon, 20 oz. at $20 is a real bargain, 1 layer and done. Also some nice harness 10 oz, two layers and out.
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