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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 5/11/2004 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
for those who don't know, the nova-sid labs belleville washer "brake" is the sh!t !!! For a lousy slalomer such as myself, it has helped me get through courses, then loosen up the brake on susequent runs to improve my time, without changing wheels or f-ing up my bearings. Adjustment time 5 seconds. They have been in place on the rear of my main slalom deck since I got them, and still work great. Just use fresh nylock nuts and you are all set.
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On 5/10/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(216.80.nnn.nnn)
spoke w/cnova about rpm recommendations for bearing tests this evening and he reminded me of the tests we had initiated last year while testing the bellevilles with a wheel about the size of an avalon (i'm pretty sure it was an avalon). anyway 2200 rpm was what he figured at the time but recalculated it tonight jic...
so by using our time honed skills of unmitigated conjecture we were able to guesstimate that anywhere between 1600 to 2500 rpm would be highly advisable.
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On 5/10/2004
joseph
wrote in from
(211.30.nnn.nnn)
i am wondering if anyone knows how to make pivot cups? my deadbolts will not work with indy cups and i lost the old ones. or better yet does anyone know any company that makes pvot cups that will fit deadbolt plates? ie tensor, doh doh...
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On 5/10/2004 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
I worked with an engineer from Fafnir years ago on break-in. Instead of using spacers, we mounted all the bearings on a shaft with no spacers, and dipped the whole thing in an oil bath. These were no-seal bearing so that worked really well. We used direct drive off an electric motor running a standard 1750 rpm, and he thought that was just dandy. In this case we clamped the outer races with end plates and all-thread at all four corners, for even pressure. the axle ran through pillblock bearings at each end. With the outer races tied together it was pretty easy to load, and we could release and spin the end plates to vary the spot we were breaking in. With the outer races "free" to spin, they spin slower than the inners, so all surfaces get worked (the oil drag and inertia keeps it from spinning at the same rpm). I don't think this method would work for sealed bearings, but the rpm should be OK.
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On 5/10/2004 hugh r
wrote in from
(24.48.nnn.nnn)
So lets say that equal loading will be beyond my means... and that I will only load the bearings enough to keep the spinning shaft in place and to keep the inner portions of the bearings from spinning (which won't take much loading) my question then would be:
How long should I spin these dogs for and what would be an acceptable RPM?
I do have a spinning machine that I forgot about... I use it to paint cresting on arrows... it spins at a moderate rate (probably a couple thousand rpm)... I have some shafts that are real close to axel size that could probably be used too... thoughts? HR
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On 5/10/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
centrifugal may be the wrong term...
...gyroscopic might have been more applicable.
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On 5/10/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
duane: i have trouble thinking of properly loading each individual bearing equally when lined up on one axle. keep gettin' a mental picture of the ones furthest out receiving most of the stress while the ones closest to the weighted end being least affected (could be wrong though). can't figure out a simple way to adhere to the outer race w/o affecting the bearings outer race. trying hard to picture washers on one side of each bearing to push the outer race to one side but you'd probably need a cable to each one of these and something to allow you to make sure the pressure is applied equally.
unless i misunderstand the statement hugh, putting equal pressure on either side of the axle doesn't provide the load you are trying to attain. this would actually the be the way one would secure the inner race to commence testing. putting pressure on either side of the outer bearing race doesn't perform this function either (one side equalizes the other). putting pressure on only one side of the outer bearing races will break-in only that point of the bearing...
...but putting each individual bearing into a weighted disk, changing the angle of the axle as you are spinning it would probably be more of what you may be looking for. centrifugal force would turn the outer race each time load is applied so that all sides of both races will get worked out eventually.
loading may be beyond expectations at the moment.
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On 5/10/2004 hugh r
wrote in from
(24.48.nnn.nnn)
So lets say I spin these things at a few thousand RPM... under slight load by equal pressure on both sides of the axel... and I spin them for 8 hours.
Would you guys consider this to be a sufficient "break-in" for the bearings?
HR
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On 5/10/2004
Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
I find that a drill makes a spankin' good gear motor, variable speed and ready to run. Not onnly that, but you can just chuck up one end of a long axle, and let it rip. What I envision is a Randal luge axle, mounted up with bearing / thin spacer / bearing until full, then apply even pressure to the outer races with a clamping mechanism, like two lengths of steel bar with a thin rubber pad on them (for grip). The assembly could then be run flat on a table, for straight-ahead type running, or side loads could be applied at will hanging weight on the axle (or drill end), tilting the entire stack to vertical, and holding onto the outer races. The force would transfer through the inner races and shift the load to one side or the other of all the outer races. the thin spacers would allow oil or grease to be thrown out of the bearing. The 2mm precision spacers that Seismic Dan sold me would be perfect for this. You might want to blow a fan on the drill, to prevent overheating, but a good drill will do hours under light load, they are tested that way in the factory.
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On 5/9/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(216.80.nnn.nnn)
hugh: "Speed 6.3 RPM" is kinda slow... cnova said he'll take a look 'round for something a little faster. i was thinkin' 60-120 rpm would be more desireable.
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On 5/9/2004
hugh r
wrote in from
(69.166.nnn.nnn)
Alan... that's a pretty cool looking little drive motor... I'm not too up on gear ratio's and such, so what rpm would that shaft end up spinning at?
All... what would be the rpm range that you would consider adequate to break in bearings on a machine?
Thanks, HR
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On 5/9/2004 psYch0Lloyd - cnova
wrote in from
(216.80.nnn.nnn)
hugh: here's a link to the Dayton Gearmotor model 3M104 which we have readily available for you (click on the pic). the only concern we had was for the "Gear Ratio:525:1" spec. might be a tad slow for your purposes, on the other hand "Torque (Pounds/Inches):120" could push turn out something crazy!!! hey, you can always motorize those livingroom curtains with it kwim.
its a couple pounds so lmk if this doesn't fit the bill. one word from you and we'll send it to you for the usual fee +10% s/h.
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On 5/9/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(216.80.nnn.nnn)
take two bearings and a spacer and place it onto an axle in the same arrangement as you would if there were inside a wheel. tighten this as you would normally (but sans the urethane tire). spin each bearing and see if the inside race of the bearing spins along w/the outer race. you should be able to tell this by simply observing the spacer. if the spacer/inside race is spinning then you must be either using a truck with an floating axle or you haven't tightened the axle nut properly.
i would think that tightening a string of bearings w/spacers between them on an axle with the only contact being made at the inner race/spacer area from nut to nut would provide the necessary "grip". bearings mounted on wheels with a properly sized spacer act in this manner wouldn't you say?
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On 5/9/2004 herbn
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
oh yeah? on my current trucks i was filing down the cromoly axles to make the bearings slide on, there is a point where the bearings go on just easy but stick just as they hit the hanger,they are gripped, if you try a bit early they are quite stuck. At this point a bit of nice even pressure with 600 grit sandpaper makes the fit nice.
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On 5/9/2004
Yan0
wrote in from
(69.164.nnn.nnn)
hughr,
this could be overkill, but I thought I might as well throw it out there. There isnt really any way for an axle to "grip" the inside of the bearing, but keeping the outsied of the bearing still is no problem. The idea is to have no slip anwhere. What I was thinking is to thread a rubber tube with a smaller axle (which is in turn connected to a power source). Somehow get a valve on the tube, seal it up on both ends well, slip bearings over the tube, then inflate it a bit. The bearings won't go anywhere. Just a thought.
Yan0
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On 5/8/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(216.80.nnn.nnn)
...come to think of it you may be able to get away with just a long axle if you only want to do just eight at a time.
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On 5/8/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(216.80.nnn.nnn)
hmmmmmmm... i'd build this for youo but my fingers are all ravaged from a freak eating accident.
sounds like you may want to secure the bearings in a line and somehow spin them on a common "axle".
i'm envisioning a couple of .5" angle irons or wood trim of similar (see below). you could probably put some double sided foam tape where it would contact the bearings to make sure they don't spin and tie all together w/zip ties. you might be able to use a long solid curtain rod as your axle, place spacers between each bearing or the right size pipe to take up the gap. then you may want to take a variable speed drill or slow motor of some type and let it go to town...
...come to think of it we have access to some low geared motors for just this type of thing. let me see if i can free one up for just this purpose. i'll know by the end of the day.
lmk what you think,
alan
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On 5/8/2004
hugh r
wrote in from
(69.166.nnn.nnn)
Hey all you big brained guys!
If you were going to build a "bearing conditioner" to pre-ride break in your bearings... how would you build it?
Now pretend your ME... you don't have a mill or super fancy equipment... not terribly clever, but usually smart enough not to bite my fingers when I eat... and I wan't to be able to build it in my garage and use less than 40 watts an hour to run it... and it needs to be quiet enough so it doesn't interfer with my already lousy sleeping habits! How would I build it?
I also want to be able to spin these bearings at least 8 at a time... but more is better!
Any ideas?? Thanks!! HR
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On 5/8/2004 hugh r
wrote in from
(69.166.nnn.nnn)
BillF... there have been some discussions on several ways to do this in the past... do a search in the Homemade forum only... use keywords one at a time.... sugar... sand... silica... griptape... ect...
You will find a few real good and a couple of not so good ideas on how to do this... the most interesting one to me are the guys who use sugar.
I've used the sand method for years with decent results... HR
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On 5/7/2004
BillF
wrote in from
(65.141.nnn.nnn)
I've made a new board and want to leave a clear finish on it with a marine varnish. Is there anything that I can mix in with the varnish that will give grip like grip tape?
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On 5/7/2004
BillF
wrote in from
(65.141.nnn.nnn)
David, I have made several boards using your apporach with a good outcome. I used stock 3/4" by 6". To shape the underside I took the center and made lines down the length of the board about 2", wide enough for the trucks, then I carved the wood off between the lines and the top edge that I left about 1/4" thick. Looking directly at the board it was kind of a v shape. This approach lightened the board, and gave room for the wheels. However it is a lot of work. Hope this discription makes sense. My wheel base on the last one I made was about 24"...not a bit of flex. I used oak but maple is just as hard, also a lot prettier when finished. Good luck, Bill
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On 5/7/2004 Dave G
wrote in from
(207.69.nnn.nnn)
David, you're playing a guessing game! When using solid "planks" the cositency is hampered vs ply! I have several Mahogany decks (up to 42" but wouldn't want to use them to really "pump" They won't stress fracture,but just POP!
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On 5/7/2004 david
wrote in from
(192.211.nnn.nnn)
i also plan on sanding some wheelwells in.
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On 5/7/2004
David
wrote in from
(192.211.nnn.nnn)
ok, so i just bought a piece of solid maple thats 45" x 10" x 1.5". i am planning on making a few slalom type boards, no longer than 32". if I cut the wood in half so i have two 3/4" pieces, will this be to thin? i want a board with little to no flex, will 3/4 inch be to thin to be structurally sound, granted i'm gonna plane and sand it down so its going to be a little less than 3/4" thanks
david
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On 5/7/2004 Dave G
wrote in from
(207.69.nnn.nnn)
Musked be luv! I would find it Graphitying to make an impression on a loved one! With out smoothering them in a vacuum (bag)! What Karat Karbon is in store for the Jewel ? This heats gettin' to me!
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