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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 2/11/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
Got the concave sanded, did rail grabs most cause they look cool,most of my riding is done in skid gloves(my new name for them) especially on this board, road it briefly,unfinnished,"bad herb", and it has the expected hugh turning radius this is gonna be one haulin ass board,just noticed the anonymous addresses was never a problem but it's probabely a good idea,gotta call damikey and get those pics up.laita
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On 2/9/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
Just did a preliminary bolt together,to check flex. Wow!a little routing (large wheelwells and concave)and that 14ply birch got pretty springy.Not gonna channel the bottom as much as I thought, and fiberglassing is in the near future its gonna be cool. Just got some digital pic loaded on my computer,my computer expert friend will load them on my website so they can be linked to a post,got pics of the homemade board(s)the rest of my quiver,slider gloves, should look cool.
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On 2/9/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
Routed the concave,still needs sanding but it looks cool.Found a flaw in the drilling process,a slight shift in the machine I used to drill the holes ,fixed it with epoxy,may explain that later,but it did bring up a easy way to check straightness of holes. Measure diagonnally rt. frt. axle to back left and viseversa slight imperfection will be magnified,I measured my sector and its perfect,I still gotta hand it to them they make excellent stuff,work towards that standard with your homecuts
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On 2/8/2000 Glen
wrote in from
(216.101.nnn.nnn)
I use West Systems Epoxy. It is expensive but they have pre-measured pump system that makes mixing the proper amount very easy. Be prepared to spend a lot on epoxy, it works great but your wallet may not like you much. I find that epoxy seems to go a lot further than polyester resin, it may be that because of the West Systems measuring pumps, I use less but it may be that because it's so expensive, I'm a lot more careful with how I measure it. Don't use their finish coat stuff, I've never found that it drys correctly. I always end up with gluey patches that screw up my finish. Just use the laminating type and sand, sand, sand, sand, buff.
P.S. try to find someone who works at a boat store that sells it, my friend used to work at West Marine and bought the stuff for me with his employee discount. $120.00 worth of resin and pumps cost me $65.00 with his discount.
Now that he doesn't work there anymore, I'm trying to talk other friends into getting a job there....it's not working.
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On 2/7/2000 Mars
wrote in from
(194.78.nnn.nnn)
I think I beat Herbn at the cheapboard project.
At a local DIY shop I found a 48"x96" 11-ply birch board which they sold for half the price because it had been the top board of a stack and there were some dusty footprints on it (it didn't take me 5 minutes to sand them off) As I didn't need so much they agreed to sell me only a quarter (24"x48"), just perfect for 2 boards. I got this for 200 Belgian francs, which is now, with the Dollar higher as it's ever been, about 5 $. This makes just 2.5$ per board!!!
Add about 7$ for griptape, used the polyurethane varnish I still had as a leftover from my parquet. So now i have a deck that cost me about 10$. I'm thinking of getting the other piece of the board, but I don't need 8 decks. I don't know any other longboarders out here. If there's someone interested in Belgium, I'd be happy to give them the blanks, or even make a complete deck for the cost of the materials.(in return for any good spots/hills) Just let me know!
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On 2/6/2000 matt
wrote in from
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what kind of fiberglass/epoxy is best to use?
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On 2/5/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
Re Paul d. I have a CAD program ,I use it a little for some projects, but I thought I'd keep it simple so others could follow if they want to. They sell elliptical curve drawing ruler that has a large range of curves,but I like drawing by hand and blending out bumps,flatspots,and corners, also your shape is only gonna be as perfect as your cutting skills,you could cut it on CAM bedmill but by then you're in the skateboard business and its no longer a home project. Well project homegrown is drilled,traced, cut and routed ,it took 1.5 hours so far and it came out pretty damn nice if I say so myself,I used the Randle2's with race truck bases, with just under 34 inches between these trucks this board should be super stable(I'm visualizing going real fast on one of my favorite hills aaaahhh) ,especially with this real thick wood (.735). I have to put a new sanding drum on my sander to do the wheelwells, I'm thinking I might roughout the wheelwells with my router ,by routing in concentric ovals,each shallower than the last then just blending with the sander. The board is so strong and thick,I want to lighten it a little,,,, hey that was a break from typing this ,just bolted the board together with a possible set up (reason I like owning a skateshop no 37) r2's ,X skates turbo glows and speeddemon clear sheilds(anybody used these yet?lets hear) the board has a firm flex and a real solid feel ,a little beveling couldn't hurt,just gotta figure out a way to do it without using my sander to much, maybe just really long flowing wheelwells.Slight variences have come up with the truck hole pattern,one hole seems out of place on each truck,it could be from the randle 1 bases that were used to mark the board,I left those trucks at home so I can't check, but its not a big deal, the holes in the board are drilled exactly to the size of mounting hardware so the slightest varience makes a problem, I'll just drill them out a size or two if the R1 bases don't slide on easy and straight. Later
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On 2/5/2000
longdwarf
wrote in from
(212.83.nnn.nnn)
to raph
you can have a good ride rue caillencourt next to montmartre at the end of rue lepic. the road goes over the cimetiere de montmartre. you can also go at Etoile a wide avenue( mac-mahon); it's a good sloap
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On 2/4/2000 paul d.
wrote in from
(205.151.nnn.nnn)
herbn, if your trying to get a nice flowing line
fine someone with Autocad (cad drafting).
You can set-up a centre line and the boltholes
and the use a Pline to make your shape,
then Spline it (smooth it out).
I think it's the best way to shape a board. When
you've got the shape you want plot it out
full size. then adjust, if need be, by hand. Then
trace it down on you cardboard or masonite template.
For best results get the CAD draftsman to
do the work, just tell him what you want to see.
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On 2/4/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
You mark the holes on the sheet of uncut wood,then draw an x across the marks to establish center,then drill holes before the marks smudge ,I use short sharp drills with a fancy releif grinded tip that doesn't wander while its starting,center punching the marks for good measure.Then you use your half-template ,don't even attempt to draw a full template,line it up with the center of the x and tape it down, trace it ,and flip it on the tape like a hinge fine tune the ends of the tracing, and retape the fliped template,now trace it again. cut on a band saw or sharp jigsaw.The holes are straight the halves of the board are traced off the same template so you should be fine exept for your wandering cutting technique ,that will improve with practice,I'll probabely use the first board to trace the second then rough cut,close to the line and use a laminate trimmer bit in my router to finnish off the shaping of deck number two,by bolting the two boards together,If this works really well,I can keep the first board ,with the edges unrounded as a template for a batch of boards ,make them and sell them. The real art is drawing the shape ,no lumps ,bumps or sharp corners,patience ,patience,it only took me two attempts on a slim nice 46.75 inch race/carve board 9.7 wide,the first one was fat at at the ends and would have given much wheel bite problems. When you think you have a posterboard half template,trace it the way I described ,to make a posterboard full template,a shape that might look cool as a half might be butt as a full template its cheaper and less work to make a mistake in posterboard than to make it in 14ply birch.I,ve probabely hand shaped a couple hundred shortboards a few years ago and a smooth flowing shape is really the hardest part.
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On 2/4/2000
Jeff
wrote in from
(192.135.nnn.nnn)
Hey Herbn, I assume you are going to mount the strips to your axles. If the strips are thin you could mount a washers/bearings/spacer assemply on after the strips to help get the strips perpendicular to the axles. Now that your wheels are aligned with respect to one another, what's your idea for aligning your wheels with respect to your board?
I'm going to start a board project of my own, and here's the idea I had. Draw 2 lines across the width of the board to mark where the axles will be. For accuracy, the endpoints of this line should be marked on your template folded it in half, then transfer them to the board when you draw the shape. Attatch something (how about strips) to the sides of each axle to hang down and touch the board. Line up the hanging strips with the drawn lines (assuming you have a flat board on a flat surface), get out your ruler to get everything centered, and there you go. It would probably help to draw an accurate center line when you draw the other lines. Use your idea with mine, and it might work out well.
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On 2/4/2000 bryan
wrote in from
(209.222.nnn.nnn)
i started making my board on april 1 of last year, and finished two months later! if you have any quetsions write me.
see ya and keep skating
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On 2/4/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
I'm starting a project,"project cheapboard",I saw 13 ply birch at local hardware store,Benjamin Bros Cresskill if you happen to be from northern N.J area. It cost 25 bucks and it big enough to make two boards (48x24). I had to buy a new bandsaw blade ,10 bucks but thats about it. I'll spray them with polyurithane or laquer maybe 5 bucks at Homedepot, 40 bucks for two boards not bad, I'll be testing an idea I had for drilling really precise holes, even compensating for any varience in the trucks, it goes like this:get two strips (metal or wood) clamp them together and drill the wheelbase you want, then bolt them on to your trucks and use that to mark your holes,even if the holes are off a little on the deck the wheels will be perfectly lined up and straight.
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On 2/3/2000 Glen
wrote in from
(216.102.nnn.nnn)
You can use regular yellow carpenters glue, Titebond II works well. It's pretty waterproof and bonds well. Epoxy can also be used but it's a lot more money, harder to work with, and can be brittle.
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On 2/3/2000
aftermath
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
if i'm laminating my own ply, what kind of glue should i use? will regular old wood glue work? or do i need some hi-tech epoxy?
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On 2/1/2000 brian
wrote in from
(206.105.nnn.nnn)
i personally prefer a solid board, but maybe when i can shape the ply myself i'll start liking it more
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On 2/1/2000 Pre-School Rider
wrote in from
(209.198.nnn.nnn)
Jens,I have seen some beautiful boards done with solid (not laminated) select cuts of hardwood.I'd use a router or shaver to round off the sides,then sand it smooth. Either sand or plane the ends to a slight taper to even out the flex,and maybe add a layer or two of fiberglass to stiffen it.
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On 2/1/2000
jens
wrote in from
(195.204.nnn.nnn)
ps: Do I have to use plywood? Are there boards who are not made out of plywood? What should I use?
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On 2/1/2000
jens
wrote in from
(195.204.nnn.nnn)
Listen to this! This is how i wan`t to build my board!
1. I buy a piece of wood.
2. i draw the board.
3. i cut it out.
4. i drill the holes.
5. I put on some griptape.
OK?
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On 2/1/2000
toddo
wrote in from
(206.17.nnn.nnn)
if i'm making a downhill board (around 4-5 foot) would i be better off using one piece of six or eight ply or better pressing seperate sheets together ... if pressing them together is the go then what glues should i use and what kinds of woods work good in both cases ...thanks
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On 2/1/2000 Mars
wrote in from
(194.78.nnn.nnn)
Lono, I don't know anything about shellack, but I had a leftover from varnishing my wooden floor (clear poly-urethane lacquer) which I used for my board. It comes in either gloss or semi-gloss and it's SUPER resistant. Just apply thin layers (I did 5 layers but the more, the better), sand them lightly in between with #330 or #400 grid wet-and-dry (except for the last layer). If you want a real nice shine, buff the last layer with a fine abrasive compound you can find in auto-shops.
If you want it to be even more resistant, go to the same auto-shop and buy a can of that 3M matt black undercoating.
The wood won't show anymore, but it won't dent either...
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On 1/18/2000 Lono
wrote in from
(170.1.nnn.nnn)
What kind of shelack (sp?) is good for sealing a maple deck?
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On 1/18/2000
Ali
wrote in from
(146.50.nnn.nnn)
On mounting the trucks upside down...
I think you should be really careful with that, because trucks aren't build to be used like that.
When you use a truck in the normal way, the baseplate rests on the hanger and the kingpin is just
holding everything in place and keeping it together.
When you turn them upside down, the baseplates are hanging from the hangers, suspended by the kingpin.
So, all your weight is on the kingpin. This may lead to breaking of the kingpin, the kingpin being
pulled trough the hanger, the pivot slipping out of the baseplate, or the breaking of the hanger.
Of course, failure is most likely to occur when there is an extra amount of tension on the kingpin,
so it may not happen when you're just cruising down a smooth hill, but it might just happen when
you land a big air on a steep and rough hill.
Maybe Jones or Seismics can be used upside down, because of their different geometry, but you'd have
to check with the people who make those.
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On 1/17/2000 mirek
wrote in from
(195.136.nnn.nnn)
I am from Poland. Iwould like to build at home Longboard. My questions:
1. Is there any connection beetween my Size ( weight, how toll I am ), and the size of deck.
2. How wide should be the truks, is 180mm ok?
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On 1/17/2000
Mark
wrote in from
(194.78.nnn.nnn)
Hi all,
I'm thinking of making a kind of slalomboard with a fair amount of camber. To make this I want to use 3 or 4 slices of 3.6mm plywood, laminate them with neoprene glue and press it all together between two hardwood camber shaped boards.
Is there someone who has already tried this?
Would it be enough to use only the wood or do I also have to use fibers?
Mind you that I want the board to flex, for building up speed when turning.
If no one answers, I'll try it anyway.(I think it wont cost that much, only the time)And I'll post my experiences.
Keep on building!!!
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