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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 10/24/2004
DrOlds
wrote in from
United States
(4.156.nnn.nnn)
hey
while relatively new to skateboarding and old(37) i thought you guys might like to know about a product i have used to build longboards ,it is called superply and is used as underlayment for floors ,not pretty but for the center laminates it works well and is strong, i am 205 and i put an inch and a half of camber and it stays well!just my 2 cents
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On 10/22/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
the bearing pivot trucks just didn't match the board i'm mostly riding right now,35 inches between truck mounts the trucks were only 169's,the ride was ok but just didn't seem to come together , when you just focused on the trucks the action, the adjustment, weight ect ect all seemed cool, but the length to width just seemed a bit long(narrow) ,i took the other set of trucks and cut them a bit(.300 a side) now they're a few millimeters thinner than a 180 randal,very nice.While trimming the axle i bumped and nudged them back to really really straightness,i also didn't cut any new threads, just some .300 spacers that fit nicely between the nice meaty 8mm axle nuts,and my wheels. By the way my sheilds were pretty mangled seemed like inners, i machine in speedrings ,so all i can think of is a very certain size of gravel kicks up an gets in there and rolls around between the sheild and the hanger,roughening things up,what else is there?
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On 10/22/2004
bz
wrote in from
United States
(24.11.nnn.nnn)
Conatcting HERBN.
can someone direct me to contacting Herbn? i am considering designing and prototyping a skateboard with a level of engineering like that of high-end mountain bikes or from what i can tell from the pics like that of Herbn's work.
i do a variety of unusual high-end watches and have worked as an industrial designer in a variety of fields. i am seeking any info that would be helpful for a old skool/ new technology pool board. please email me if you can help on any of these request. thanks in advance.
email: banrg9@yahoo.com
ben.
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On 10/21/2004
roger
wrote in from
United States
(4.29.nnn.nnn)
Anyone ever put a titanium sheet in a skate deck laminate?
I have a Supaflex (French) deck that aluminum on top and bottom with wood lams in the middle that has a nice flex. But I am thinking that titanium on the bottom could make a deck pretty solid and help absorb energy. Perhaps even a thin sheet of polyurethane to absorb (I think John Gilmore did something like that with race snowboards).
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On 10/21/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
put my ballbearing pivot trucks on todaym,previous bearing pivot trucks were my very wacky adjustable geometry trucks,which had the bearings seperated with abit of distance and a spacer,weird roll center,and i had trouble locking in the geometry,they were also taller than i like with ride height varying a bit depending on the geometry. Todays ballbearing pivot trucks are just my regular truck with bearings in the base(two microbearings stacked)and a short cromoly post in the hanger, internal threads hold the bearings on(think early seismic axle) these trucks rock,very smooth gliding action not sketchy or twitchy at all,my adjustable truck were a bit of a handfull. More riding to come,for sure, gotta get em fast.
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On 10/21/2004
apple
wrote in from
Canada
(192.139.nnn.nnn)
i had some good results build boards so far using plywood and a press but i look at VLAM and was woundering if any one had any good info on building one. at first glace it seems simple but their must be some pit falls
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On 10/21/2004 Duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
c'mon man, getting the glass itchies is half the fun ! And ruining your router bits on glass. I was seriously itchy at the farm race having finished my board right before leaving home.
How about making pockets that taper front and back, and have 45 degree taper on the sides, and drape the glass right into them and leave it there ? Lots of extra strength that way. They could be cut with a table saw dado, dropping the board down onto the blade and using stops, then clean up the sides by hand or router.
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On 10/20/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
I did the initial gluing of my latest,i just used yellow titebond for the strips of poplar, i would have liked to glue a bit wetter but the glue i had left didn't coat as thickly as i thought, it seems to have worked well.I used fiber glass to soak up the squeezed out glue,i trimmed the edges with a razorblade so i won't need as much epoxy to soak the glass,less glass. I'm addicted to riding low so i think i need to do truck pockets,i don't want to route the pockets in a fiberglassed area(airbourne glass) so tommorrow i'm gonna trim cut and peal off the tacked down glass in the truck areas; then route the pockets, make plastic plates that fill the pockets for laminating, and glass the pockets at the sametime that i epoxy the fiberglass skins.
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On 10/20/2004 Yan0
wrote in from
United States
(140.233.nnn.nnn)
Fiberglass adds strenght. The stronger the board, the siffer it gets. The farther outside the center of the board you put the fiberglass, the more of an effect it will have.
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On 10/20/2004 Kalin
wrote in from
United States
(162.84.nnn.nnn)
what is the deal with putting fiberglass between the veneers? obviously it adds strength but what about flexibility? also what type of fiberglass should i use?
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On 10/20/2004 rj
wrote in from
United States
(63.173.nnn.nnn)
Buy your wood in 1/8" or 1/4" sheets, buy some really good glue ( i use polyurethane glue), build a mold/press, cut the deck out of your pressed wood. Lather, rinse, repeat.
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On 10/19/2004 kalin
wrote in from
United States
(162.84.nnn.nnn)
i am trying to make a very flexible longboard in the style of sector 9's cosmic 2 series. I have experience wood working but not in making longboards. If anyone could give me a clue as to where to start that would be a huge help.
Thanks
Kalin
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On 10/19/2004
Yan0
wrote in from
United States
(140.233.nnn.nnn)
Svarteld,
the bigger wheels fixed the problem, it hits on the sides too, I should have made that clearer. But anyways... I love it. Its got a really unique feel.. I cant wait to crank another with out all the imperfections.
The board is also noticibly easier to initiate in turns than some other boards. Soem friends and I were trying to figure it out, and this is what we came up with, no idea if it makes sense: The top of the deck is just under the pivot point. That means that when you start a turn, the middle of the deck "swings" out. Basically your contact points are working with centrifical force, rather than on a board with the pivot point below the deck where you need to "pull" the deck inside...
who knows..
Yan0
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On 10/18/2004
frank
wrote in from
United States
(24.153.nnn.nnn)
Check out www.lexjet.com
Depending on what printer your getting, they have a bunch of different medias. I use thier fabrics and films through my printer. I laminate the fabrics to the boards fairly easily.
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On 10/18/2004 Duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
Svarteld, I like the structure. I would be tempted to replace the center "light wood-oak-light wood" portion with a single layer of end grain balsa, it would be light and strong. I love carbon but it is very tough to make look good, molds have to be perfect. Thus the veneer on the outside is a neat solution (that Pocket Pistols uses among others). You may find oak veneer a bit splitty when bent.
The Topsheet thing in snowboards is a pretty good idea, the light materials like the Kodak film (treated polyester around 0.010-0.020") that you can run through a color printer, then laminate right onto the board sorta negates most of the problems with surface finish, and would even hide small bubbles. Formica like the Skaterbuilt is good where weight doesn't matter.
I gotta find a good source of clear rollstock Kodak film, it comes 12" wide by roll length, we've got a color laser printer coming to the office this week, and the film can be fed directly in, printed on the back side (in mirror image), then used as the topsheet directly. Polyester is tough stuff too for abrasion resistance, you'd have to go through it completely before scrubbing off the graphics.
For the couch potato, snack bags are made that way, that's why you can't scratch the ink off, its on the inside of the top layer, printed onto clear film and backed up by white plastic.
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On 10/18/2004
Svarteld
wrote in from
Sweden
(213.64.nnn.nnn)
YanO,
So it scratches it's belly? The first dropped one I made does that too (on the sides), when cornering with small wheels, but it got some other issues wich makes it unusable... Our shop has a "hall of fame" place where the biggest building failures of me and my friends rest in peace - my board will catch a high rank there :-)
Guess Chaput's 97 mm Flys won't save your baby if it's that low. Just to get some use of it, you could try wheels for those kickbike toys, they're like really big inline wheels - think they come in sizes like 130-150 mm or something, and uses standard 608 bearings. No big grip though, since they're narrow like a needle. Check that you get polyurethane though, my friend bought some but got them in plastic - useless.
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On 10/17/2004
Yan0
wrote in from
United States
(140.233.nnn.nnn)
Just took the Dropped CG board out for a spin. This is proof that you really shoud think things through. When I lay it over unflexed, it is about 3/16 above ground. it flexes about 1/4. You figure it out. I put on bigger wheels (76mm --> 83mm) but I dont know if it will make all the difference. As far as the board buildign went, I had some issues working with the uni, which I have found is not as user friendly as normal woven cloth. the first layer I put on (+/- 45) was riddled with air bubbles that I needed to sand out. It got better from there, but still nowhere near perfect. Svarteld, Looks great from what I can tell. I was thinking of doing somethign like that but with maple and foam as opposed to the porus wood and oak. I ended up not doing it because I didnt think that the foam woudl be able to stand up to the forces transfered to it from the maple/carbon and it woudl just shear. Still looking for a foam that will behave better.
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On 10/17/2004
Svarteld
wrote in from
Sweden
(213.64.nnn.nnn)
herbn,
Would be really nice if you could get some footage going, to show us your incredible stuff - sounds like nothing I've seen before!
brad,
Thanks. The carbon is for strength, not show (though I like the look of it). The weave can't even be seen since it's pressed between the two outmost lying oak veeners. I bought the thickest weave I could find :-) The thought about the light wood in the middle is mostly to increase the leverage on the fibres, so they'll load up more quickly under (lateral) stress.
I'm hoping all this would bring the no-rear-steer deck below 2 kg - now it's around 2,3 kg, just like The Big Red X in weight. The damper gives a weight penalty of around 700 g complete with likage and frame, wich are now both built in steel, but if it works out I might try it in alu later.
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On 10/15/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
got the second kingpin/ bracket done today,these trucks at about 169 -175 mm width ,weigh in at 310-315 grams,less than your average flipper truck. By the way with ballbearings on a cromoly pivot , if the 3/8 inch part of the kingpin vaporized, the truck would just get a bit looser, the bushings would still be trapped for a little while.
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On 10/15/2004
brad
wrote in from
United States
(64.136.nnn.nnn)
Svarteld,
I can't see the board, as there's just an "X" there, but it sounds
like you're creating quite the work of art. how does the carbon glue up
with the oak? I imagine it works very well. are you using the carbon
to give the board an advanced look/feel or to reduce weight? the "2.8 mm very light, pretty porous wood" may serve only to thicken the deck without adding
much strength. As I'm not familiar with using carbon, I can't offer much advice, except to keep that torsion down to a minimum. good luck with this deck, I'm looking forward to seeing it.
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On 10/14/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
well, i gota get pics on, this aluminum kingpin should be fine,instead of a nut it threads into a bracket(gullwing,sort of),and the lrg end which is very hollow is clamped by the baseplate,the bracket is solidly interlocked with the baseplate. lastly the cromoly post(8mm) anchored solidly in the hanger spins in two micro bearings mounted solidly in the baseplate, the pivot carries weight and most of the stresses from cracks and bumps,so all the kingpin does, really, is take the stresses of steering tension,i generally set my trucks pretty loose, i do not foresee these kingpins breaking, any time soon. I made the whole thing out of 7075 and there is a nice little radius where the 3/8 section , becomes 3/4.
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On 10/14/2004
Svarteld
wrote in from
Sweden
(213.64.nnn.nnn)
herbn,
That v-lam seems a little too complex for me to pull off, I'll settle for horisontal lamination and bending for some time. But one day I'll try making a v-lam, and I know who to ask for advice... yup, you're the guy.
Brad,
Would have liked to get hold of some hard rock maple, but the veeners they had in maple were all 0,6 mm thin... reckon it'll be too much glueing for a first try. But I got hold of some 1,0 mm oak veeners, and some other 2,8 mm very light, pretty porous wood, so I'm thinking of cooking this up:
It'll be 11,6 mm thick, plus epoxi - the last one I've made ended up 15 mm, all birch ply, and with almost no flex, somewhat like a Big red X. I'll make the new one 5 cm shorter, aiming for about 500 g lighter weight, same flex. Does it figure?
The idea is to use the light stuff mostly in the middle, to keep the hard oak and carbon fibre near the surface. I'll put the carbon between two oak veeners, hopefully to make it easier to not use a lot of epoxi for it. To make the thin veeners get the correct shape in the press, I think I'll use one layer of birch ply on each outer side as support, but not glueing it, just wrapping it up in thin plastic, in case some epoxi would pour out.
Any advices?
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On 10/14/2004 Dave
wrote in from
United States
(67.168.nnn.nnn)
Matt: soft Bahne
1. You could add a full lenght
1/8" Birch ply riser pad. Glue
it on. This could be too stiff?
Rule of thumb:Stiffness=thickness
cubed.
2. Get 1/2" or 12mm Birch ply and
make a flat low flex deck GS deck.
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On 10/14/2004 Duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
I would advise against aluminum kingpins, the long-term stress dynamics of aluminum are not favorable for such parts. The skatecars were once fitted with aluminum spindles, calculations showed no problem, reality showed otherwise.
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On 10/14/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
it's funny ,after that post, i figured out that it wouldn't work exactly like that. The "gullwing style" bracket needs to thread on to the kingpin,you remove the bolts that hold the bracket on the base,and turn the bracket like a wrench,at a full turn it would sort of run into the base so you(i've) gotta loosen the pinch bolt in the baseplate that clamps the kingpin into the base,slide the "kingpin" out a bit and slide it around to realiegn the "gullwing bracket" with the baseplate mounting holes,and retighten everything. I like having a place where i can run through my designs and figure out if things work.
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