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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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re think
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On 12/3/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
not gonna drill skins before gluingm, and need to keep beams clear of bolt holes,if the drill grazes beams they'll vere off course. I think i'm gonna fill some lengthwise chambers with a carbon wraped beam of balsa. I could make the board kind of thin (.500) and if it's to flexy i can always groove it and add carbon wrapped stingers, a nice high tech old school look.
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That..
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On 12/3/2004 Duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
Diagram no worky
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Core thickness
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On 12/3/2004 Duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
I think 3/8" gives me the most versatility, but I'd really like to have some 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2". We made a lot of beamers out of birch in the late '70's, and always liked that design. Longboards in particular with 4" of beam in the center looks and works very well. The trucks can sit on top if not cut away, or be buried in between.
Thicker cores for totally non-flexy applications like speedboards, and thinner for snap. The closer the skins to each other the better the snap back, solid carbon unidirectional with no core is an incredibly efficient spring, I might have mentioned it before but some idiots at my college made a pogo stick with carbon bow springs and went 50" vertical.
Now what I really want to try is a board with integrated carbon trucks, the skins converge at the front and back (no core), and fold down 45 degrees on both ends, to which an axle is mounted. Properly designed it would be an incredible pumping machine, no bushings, no pivots, no baseplates, no bolts nada except carbon spring properties, looking something like this from the side sans wheels:
__________
\ /
I'm bored with conventional design, the other thing I'd like to do is build a BMW-like board but well under 10 pounds with return to center, possibly supplied by carbon springs, and also possibly sporting two in-line rear wheels to cut weight and complexity (if these are fixed perpendicular to the board, then all wheels will be parallel in a turn)
Ok back to your regularly scheduled reality...
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wing board
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On 12/3/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
i like to make it simple to line up. Cut the skins identical, hold them togetherm,may drop of titebond in two corners.Now drill the truck mounting holes,paying more than usual amount of attention to centering the holes. Trace the shape with the partical board template on both sides. Now cut all the grooves/dados(1/8),on top and on bottom of the skins,remember only a few tiny drops in the corners hold them together, but the grooves on top skin will line up perfectly with the grooves on the bottom skin,just flip the skins correctly after cutting the corners off. If i use 1/8 beams in 1/8 inch grooves it'll all squeeze together,with 3/32 beams and a layer of carbon things might get a bit sloppy and hard to manage though on a dry run i'll check that. Notching the beams for the cross grains,can be done along the same lines, hold every thing together ,temporarily cut all the notches while things are togetherm,seperate the pieces and reassemble into the grooves in the skins. Once the beams are in the grooves pieces can be made to fill the hollow areas where they intersect the template lines(remember they're traced on the skins),if the beams are equally spaced these pieces should be easy to make also. With my low trucks and ambivalent feelings towards concave my board only needs to be flat, but like an airplane wing, anyshape is possible,rockers,concave(both) all the pieces just have to be templated to fit together and a press, or a number of clamps made for the skins,hey vacuum bagging is perfect for this.
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Winged HerbN
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On 12/3/2004
yan0
wrote in from
United States
(140.233.nnn.nnn)
Herbn,
I completely follow you as far as the design.. I think. You are planning on making a grid out of 1/8" birch, and nesting it inbetween two layers of carbon, which lay on top of peices of 3/32 birch with dadoed grooves to accomodate the carbon/birch. Your thinking as to the size of the longitudinal/latitudinal crossmembers is right on; a circle has the most area per unit of circumference, a square is the right foursided shape most similar to a circle. ... highschool geometry is coming back to haunt me. I was thinking of making a similar board, but with 1/4" and just runnin the strips lenghtwise, I ended up not doing it because i realize that the board would have no shear strength laterally, it would just fold, your solution sounds pretty comprehensive. Lots of cutting though!! and it could be tricky to line up everything when you are pressing.. good luck, let us know. As far as the distances go, it seems like a similar question to the one I was asking about how big the holes in a cutout core (skinned with wood) could be before the wood started buckling.. I bet you could go pretty big.. 3-4" maybe?
yan0
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Herbngineering
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On 12/2/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
I got my ac spruce supplies today, the 5 ply 1/8, and 5 ply 3/32 are wicked,i don't know if anybodys' following my thoughts on this board, i'm gonna make it kind of like a wing. .125 skins top and bottomm,grooved with a table saw,lengthwise and crossways, grooves about halfway though the skin. Then cut 1/8 inch into strips and make interlocking strips. The skins are clamped together and mounting holes drilled,and the shape is traced on both sides of the skins. With the beams in place i'll be able to see where the hollow board will need to be filled(for durability),probabely with ash. at points of impact and poplar or even that balsa(that came in this order)in places where impact is gonna be unlikely or not to severe(edges). Now,how far apart do the beams need to be? It occured to me that for optimum strength that the crossection of the hollow section should be about square. For example if the skins are .750 apart the grooves(beams) should also be .750 apart. By the way to confuse you more(as if that were possible) the 3/32 ply leaves a bit of room in the grooves for some carbonfiber.Todays duane question ,is 3/8 vertical grain balsa thee core thickness for all boards? sure beams and stuff are possible but for some reason i'm thinking a nice flat even core for a balsa board, i figure with the balsa from ac spruce i can fine tune core thickness, a bit more work,but if i were mass producing boards for everybody,i look into sheets of balsa milled made to my specs.
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r2 weight
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On 12/2/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
oddly at the moment,i only have the butt board r2's at the shop, with the long kingpins and thick locknut they weigh about as much as those DH's don't look at the beefy castingsm, think steel. Those mags you got are only 60 grams lighter than my 9 inch axle versions, with 7075 billet metal bases that don't flex or crack.See ,even though the base material is feathery and the magnesium is also real light ,they still have alot of steel. I've wondered about a one piece aluminum hanger ,with those reflex 10mm id bearings,maybe a carbon rod reinforcing the axle,scary. If there was a dh wheel/bearing combo ,with a bearing that had a 12mm id and a 24mm od i'd do a billet hanger machined to 12 mm in a sec. Now, real scary, some sort of hanger molded out of carbon ,that supports the axle on the outside too,think of little wheel tubs,8 or hollow 10 mm billet axles ......
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herb's truck
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On 12/2/2004
Svarteld
wrote in from
Sweden
(213.64.nnn.nnn)
That's one wicked truck! Smart looking kingpin support, and the tiny height must be great. I'm stoked. A little curious about the pivot also. Did you make the distance between kingpin bushing and pivot point that short to allow the base to be really low?
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dem trux
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On 12/2/2004 Duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
very nice, very beefy looking, which I suppose is also very necessary when the axle is split. I think Randal downhills come in around 475g, the 35 degree baseplates are real pigs compared to the RII plates. Using RII hangers shaves off a bit of weight but not too much. Spin axle Comps 170 come in at a piggy 600g.
If I had capital I'd make a mint banging out 200g flipper trucks by injection molding thixotropic magnesium, very accurate and fairly cheap if the quantity is right. With clever inserts in the mold you could make any width you wanted.
My magnesium sixtracks come in at 265g with the rare very light carbon fiber-nylon plates that UR13 sold me. I can't bear to skate these much as I'm sure some dope on eBay would pay big $$$ for them. I'd like to pair them up with a superlight version of the lanyachtz mummy, a nice city carry-board for carving, capable of seeing a slightly scary 40mph. I still like 76mm kryps for light, big wheels, they weigh way less than the alternatives.
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Herbn deck
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On 12/2/2004
rj
wrote in from
United States
(63.173.nnn.nnn)
I make a deck that has 11" of surface area and pretty much no wheelbite.Has a pintail ish shape. I have yet to drop one through but i could hook you up with a blank that you can use for a template for pretty cheap. I designed and cut them in CAD with a CNC router. you can see a pic of the blank at sinemaskateboards.com under products its called "The beach cruiser" email me if interested
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my trucks
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On 12/2/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
i think the geometry looks shallow because their so low, they're actually 45 degrees, those are the latest hangers, The hex part at the end is actually the head of a shouldered m12x1 aluminum bolt,that i make out of hex stock. That threads into the pressed in extensions on the center "crown". After the bolts are threaded in i drill for the axles,5/16 (slightly)hollow cromoly tubing that is actually a bit oversized(8mm) it actually needes to be shaved down a bit to make the bearings fit. This was to make the axles easier to replace should i goof up and bend them. Also , on my next hangersm, i'll make the hanger extensions short thread straight into the "crown" then different boltheads can vary the width of the truck. They look beefy ,but alot of the hanger is cored out for the bushings, the axle is split (less steel) and mostly that bracket for the kingpin is fully solidly attached, so the kingpin is alloy ,less steel again, 390 grams,my 180mm hangers were lighter, 315 grams. At the moment i'm not sure what randals weigh,that's really what i should be comparing to. Though ,with the low ride height, you gotta drop through randals AND have a rockered(lowered platform) boardm,or put lowering blocks between the dropped through baseplates and the deck.OR I just make really low trucks and straight boards.
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HerbN's trucks
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On 12/2/2004
Brad
wrote in from
United States
(206.165.nnn.nnn)
wow...those are nice. they look like they're about 200mm...
and the angle...about 35/40 degrees? Downhill?
super beefy, too. Have you tried them yet?
were these CNC'd?
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my trucks
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On 12/1/2004 HerbN
wrote in from
United States
(138.89.nnn.nnn)
well,here we go pic atttempt at last,pardon if it doesn't workright away.my Home Made Trucks
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balsa
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On 11/30/2004 Duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
end grain by Probalsa
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those sheets of balsa
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On 11/29/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
those are long grain?
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backwards blades
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On 11/29/2004
Dave G
wrote in from
United States
(207.69.nnn.nnn)
herbn, there's no chance of kick back!! The blade spins the same direction(obviously) This has been a common practice for cutting plexiglas etc...Metal roofing, anything that you want burless and non sharp!! Try it, you'll like it!
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New store
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On 11/29/2004 Duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
last time I checked on these guys the catalog was not complete...very fair pricing and very complete product line, US and Canada sales and pricing
http://www.noahsmarine.com/United_States/2002_catalog_retail.pdf
...and balsa by the sheet $16 for 2' by 4' for 3/8"
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180!
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On 11/28/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
that's kind of scary,but what the hell a slow feed and keep the fingers out of the waym, doesn't sound like a kick back situationm,would not have thought of that. Actually i was gonna chat on designing shapesm, i want to have full clearence wheel wells on my next shape and absolutely as much deck surface as possible,i'll make a particle board template firstm, start square and put the holes exactly where they need to be, then make a functional pintailish shape over thatm, blend the two just a bitm,yehaa.
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blaydz
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On 11/28/2004 Dave G
wrote in from
United States
(207.69.nnn.nnn)
Try turning the 80 tooth 180 and slowly feed it!!
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blade for balsa
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On 11/28/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
i'm was gonna try, my plain ol triple chip 80 tooth table saw blade on my big ass delta 220 volt 3hp table saw, with out to many cuts on it, i should find out on the first slice if i get a clean chip free cutm, i don't see why not, i have a band saw too,it might save some material with it's thinner blade width.It's funny , my contractor saw at my store shop is rated at 3 hp too, delta full size tablesaws use totally different horses. I have these little 1/16 kerf makita blades that work real good,the cut real smooth, because of the quality of the tooth grind and they cut through less material,mcutting depth is limited cause they're kind of small,7.25.
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balsa slices
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On 11/28/2004 Duane
wrote in from
United States
(165.121.nnn.nnn)
it should work fine, it would be sensible to titebond them together into a sheet. I hope your blade is incredibly sharp, I would rather use a bandsaw to resaw it, with a very new fine blade and a good crosscut box and fence set up to keep things square and consistent.
the blocks would be cool to use to profile, cut thicker ones down the center for a beamer, ream some out to accept baseplates, etc. some thin sheets could be used to build up ribs real easy. fun stuff.
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balsa
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On 11/28/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
balsa from ac spruce, a 2x3 x36 inch beamm, i'm guessing long grain. Now if i cut it into .500 slices with a .125 blade m,i get 57 pieces(so i figured) a 12 x 5 layout is 36x10, a nice compact parking lot cruiser, i ordered two pieces at about 12 bucks eachm, plenty of balsa for a full size or whatever,with left over,not as easy as a premade v-grain sheet, but a lot less money up front than a case of those sheets,howz that sound,duane.
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winter supplies
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On 11/26/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
purchased all kinds fo cool stuff, a gal of epoxy with no liver toxinsm, balsa,1/8 and 3/32 finnish birch lots of 5/16 cromoly tube oother tubing, winter project supplies. 300 bucks or so,fun fun.
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banned
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On 11/26/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
i just got a "banned message" ,i have no idea why
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new projects
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On 11/26/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
oh boy! i ordered stuff from my favorite hobby supply today 100 bucks worth of a slow curing epoxy that's spec'd as being with out the liver damaging chems that most epoxys apperntly have,it is however aircraft grade(read wings shouldn't falloff), i got various cromoly for axles, mostly 5/16(8mm), other stuff i can machine down or use with 10 mm bearings ,balsa. Duane ,they sell 2 inch by 3 inch long grain pieces 3 feet long, if you cut(with a 1/8 inch kerf blade) them into 1/2 inch slices you get 57 that's 3 short of what you need to lay out a 10 x 36 sheet of vertical grain, that piece of lumber costs 12 bucks, i got two. i got 3/32 and 1/8 baltic bich 3 ply 48 x 48 i'm gonna make some hollow boards,with notched interlocked beams,like a wing. 300 bucks in supplies, my winter projects have started.
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