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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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graphics
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On 3/2/2005
Frank
wrote in from
United States
(24.170.nnn.nnn)
I've had good results with a rice paper. Print it in reverse and wet it out with some resin.
Heres a detail shot. The grain comes through nice.
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Wave Graphics
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On 3/2/2005
Jack in Aurora
wrote in from
United States
(208.20.nnn.nnn)
Herbn,
Keep in mind, way back when, I was a fine arts major before I got into computers... here goes...
I find or take a good photo, or draw from memory (or a picture) a big wave. Scan it or save it, if I'm lucky enough to find it on the web, as a jpeg and then run it through Adobe Photoshop. I work computer voodoo on the image to turn it into a reverse (negative)image. Run that through Visio and insert it on the soft template of my deck. Print it out and then depending on how I want it to look I either cutout the stencil(s) or I break out the frisket paper and transfer the print to the deck and then cut it out. Next stage is to crack a beer, has to be Foster's, break out my airbrush or spray paints and get busy. 6 coats of clear polyacrylate and several beers later its done. That's the jist of it. Works well for me.
Cheers,
Jack in Aurora
God rides a longboard.
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Glen
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On 3/2/2005 apwill44
wrote in from
United States
(24.52.nnn.nnn)
Hey Glen
do a search on this forum of roarrockit. There is a link to their site that has 10.5" X 48" (unshaped) blanks of hard maple.
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websites for makeing boards
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On 3/2/2005
glenn
wrote in from
United States
(68.0.nnn.nnn)
i found about the roar rocket kit but i rather make my own deck shape and my own concave and mold so does any one know any good companys and websites where i can learn what i need to make amy own board
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wave graphics?
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On 3/1/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
how did you come up with that:?
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Starting the Poplar board tonight.
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On 3/1/2005
Jack in Aurora
wrote in from
United States
(208.20.nnn.nnn)
I finished my retro project last night, touchup here and there now I have it in the light, for all purposes its ready to ride. I'll post pics of before and after touchup. This board was bought as an unfinished blank from innovative plastics in Huntington Beach. Its 13ply Baltic Birch plywood. 3/4" x 10" x 46". Generous wheelwells. 5" Independent trucks, Lotus #3's (thx to Rob in NH), ABEC 7 bearings, countersunk angled risers and custom paint. The board sits ~4" tall. Good center of balance. Looks like it came out of a timewarp from ~1980. I brought it to work this morning to show it to my bud and I've already rec'd an offer to buy it.
I printed out the template last night for the poplar/glass project board. Graphics will be big wave themed. I'll probably have some questions for you to ponder. Thanks for the great feedback. I'll post pics of the retro later.
Cheers,
Jack in Aurora
God rides a longboard.
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poplar
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On 3/1/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
i made a board with poplar,it's a vertical laminate. I forgot exactly how thick it is and i have a bit of glass on the bottom, i cut some channels and did a lot of beveling because the board was to stiff. I have a feeling about poplar,if i thin the board even more i feel like it's gonna snap. It has strength in thickness but if you flex it more than a certain amout ,snap.
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Poplar and Fibreglass
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On 3/1/2005
OldNick
wrote in from
Australia
(203.59.nnn.nnn)
Replying to Jack in Aurora.
According to me, (and I now realise, Greg Olsen) 'glass is a tension material. So if you want the board to be stiff (less bend down) and springy back up, you need the glass on the bottom, not more on the top. The glass on the top will mainly provide dingle protection, unless you somehow manage to try to make the board bend _upwards_.
Also, use epoxy to laminate it onto wood.
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solid Poplar
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On 2/28/2005
wilder
wrote in from
United States
(198.104.nnn.nnn)
ive been having this discussion about the disadvateges of using solid Poplar wood for a dropthrough speed board as apposed to maple or birch. i was just curious as to what people had to say on this site.
its super cheap here. like 12 bucks for a 42" X 8 1/2" board. as apposed to my maple board of the same specs that cost about 40 bucks. poplar is also lighter than almost any hardwood ive found that is suitable for a longboard.
any suggestions/experience's?
thanks
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gorilla glue
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On 2/28/2005
Paul
wrote in from
United States
(132.175.nnn.nnn)
I'm certainly no expert like some of you all, but I have made really nice boards using this stuff. Just simple baltic birch boards with concave using three ply, that is two 1/4" and one 1/8" pieces of ply all glued up and pressed. I made a simple variation of rib type press (ribs 4" oc) like shown on one of the board building web sites. I rip the birch to width, usually 9 or 10", find the center at both ends and drill a hole for a screw which I use to prevent slippage once the glue's been applied. I mist the plywood with a spray bottle, and apply the glue to both sides of the contact surfaces and spread it with a sqeegee, align the boards and screw the screws. Drop it all the press and clamp the living crap out of it and wait 24 - 36 hours. Always use latex gloves with this stuff, cover your working surfaces with a plastic garbage bag so the glue won't stick, and you should be fine.
None of my boards show any separation due to glue expansion.
I use Elmers polyurethane glue which I think is the same as Gorilla but less than half the cost.
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gorilla stuff
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On 2/28/2005 Duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
as I posted a while ago, this stuff is a disaster when you try to use it between tight-fitting pieces of wood, it expands into a foam and things start sliding around. It will expand regardless of the counterforce you try to apply, chemical expansion almost cannot be resisted, the exception being vacuum whereby you would deflate the bubbles. If you can use some screws outside the perimeter you care about at least it won't slide.
If your plies are tight, or your solid pieced of wood well-milled, you will be way better off with Titebond II, or one of the variations of melamine-formaldehyde glue. The gorilla glue will blow the plies apart slightly and you will be noticeably thicker than you thought, plus that crap starts drying too fast once it gets going, and it self-catalyzes with heat and moisture which means it gets faster as you go, which also drives you crazy
that glue is great for gluing Granny's old rocker but for precision wood work, not.
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RE: Galss on the bottom
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On 2/28/2005
Jack in Aurora
wrote in from
United States
(208.20.nnn.nnn)
Glass on the bottom. Got it. I am molding the board prior to glassing. Kind of like what they do in boat building and surfboard layups. Applying the glass to the finished shape. What I was thinking of was putting the whole thing back in the mold/press and applying pressure to the glass while it cures. I read or heard somewhere that this helps prevent de-lamination.
Cheers,
Jack in Aurora
God rides a longboard.
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Galss on the bottom
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On 2/28/2005
greg olsen
wrote in from
Canada
(209.205.nnn.nnn)
Jack,
Glass works best under tension so glass on the bottom(which is lengthening)is most effective. Other materials work better in compression and you see them on the top skins of snowboards for instance. Laminate(formica et al) is better under compressiona and that is why it isseen on top skins of snowboards. I am doing a long board with glass on the bottom, top and between all three layers of 3mm Baltic birch awith formica on the top. I cannot get a concave with laminate but that is okay. I think post-forming grade might give you the ability to do concave but I am not sure.
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Alan's answers
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On 2/28/2005 Dave G
wrote in from
United States
(207.69.nnn.nnn)
I knew that!!!!! LOL
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answers
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On 2/28/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
glass on the bottom
ah... huh?
maharaja
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Poplar and fiberglass
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On 2/28/2005
Jack in Aurora
wrote in from
United States
(208.20.nnn.nnn)
Okay you laminators out there... you know who you are. I need some advise. In the Keep It Simple Stupid (KISS) school of thought, I'm laying up a longboard in solid 5/8" Poplar with fiberglass cloth top and bottom for strength (and just because I've never made a board using these two materials and I wanted to), like I said earlier I'm mostly an ash and oak type, 3/4" solid wood. I digress. I know back in the day G&S had a fibreflex w/ a poplar core, the one I owned was one of these I believe and it had sweet flex. Basically I need a sanity check. If I remember shop class right, to keep the board from flexing down too much and give it quicker return I would want to layup more glass on top than on the bottom right? I'm also going to put a little camber in the board. When I lay up the wood and the glass should I press it again so that the glass has been laminated under pressure? Does this make a difference in the way the fiberglass cures? Enough questions for now. Any feedback will be appreciated.
Cheers,
Jack in Aurora
God rides a longboard
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the herbn search engine
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On 2/28/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
i was looking through my ol skate mags for a minute or two when i thought of profire.It's strange a friend of mine sent me an e mail with a old wheel set for sale on e bay," what are these wheels" 68mm no graphics left, the pic has been floating around, i visualize it every now and then when there's a spare second, they're Excellerators ,i'm pretty sure.
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Mahjah??
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On 2/28/2005 DAve G
wrote in from
United States
(207.69.nnn.nnn)
Mahjah?? or sumpin' like that sold serious walnutted v lams (I think)
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more on walnut
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On 2/28/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
there was a board way back when,i can picture the ads, they had these deep bevel cut wheelwells,the name escapes me at the moment,,,profire boards were available in walnut as an option.
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Black Walnut
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On 2/27/2005
Jack in Aurora
wrote in from
United States
(207.69.nnn.nnn)
The plank that I have is sort of a gift. I have a friend who has Parkinson's and can no longer work in wood. He knows I'm into skateboarding and asked if I could use it. I gave him an affirmative. That's why I'm going to have it milled. I've used oak and ash in my decks, but never walnut. Its known for resilience and its ability to hold its shape. That's why its used for stocks. I asked because I had never seen it used in a deck before. I'll get three or plys milled off of it and see what happens. Thanks for the feedback.
Cheers,
Jack in Aurora
God rides a longboard.
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Walnut,
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On 2/27/2005 Dave G
wrote in from
United States
(207.69.nnn.nnn)
Jack,
I've got paddles and decks that use walnut in the mix! It's a very beautiful contrast wood/ with elasticity to boot! It is a fairly strong wood if it's of good grain (most of it is) If the hunk you have is 4" thick x 12" wide and 8' long...I'd find a better use, or sell it! That single slab is worth several hundred and can serve better purposes than to be veneered up or worse! My favorite cutting board sounds like a chip off of that block! I'm going to be cutting some variable degree wedges out of a hunk I have!! Beauty!
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black walnut
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On 2/27/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
i bought a piece of that stuff, a couple slices reside as stingers in a couple of my early v lams,sims used them as the dark wood in taperkick multilams,i think the middle ply is b.w. I feel as though it's kind of middle of the road, not that strong, not that heavy, not light either, though not very weak;mostly appealing due to the dark color adding some contrast to your board ,cutting into plys, is kind of a waste,maybe one or two plys in a maple or ash or birch stack.
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Black Walnut
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On 2/27/2005
Jack in Aurora
wrote in from
United States
(207.69.nnn.nnn)
Has anybody ever used black walnut in building a board? I have a 4"x12"x8' piece I'm going to have milled down to 3/16 veneers. I thought combined with a flexy poplar core it might make an interesting deck.
Cheers,
Jack in Aurora
God rides a longboard.
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Gorilla snot
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On 2/27/2005 apwill44
wrote in from
United States
(24.52.nnn.nnn)
Ill give it a shot. My veneer should show up Mon or Tues, ill let you know how it goes
Thanks for the info
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expanding glue
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On 2/27/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
it may expand, but i don't think you're supposed to reley on that(to much) you probabely make a close tolerence mold and the glue expansion provides pressure.
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