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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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shapeshifter
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On 3/9/2005
Fatty
wrote in from
United States
(67.94.nnn.nnn)
Wow! That was some explanation! I didn't understand it, but it was well written and quite above my head.
As far as Airin's 'boo dilemma, yeah it can be heavy - depending on thickness and density. One thing I did get out of shapeshifter's piece was that bamboo is dense, very true. It also has a better strength to thickness ratio - what I mean is: a horizontally laminated bamboo deck, such as Airin's, is thinner than a similar strength maple laminate of the same length. That being said, we just made a bamboo slalom deck that is very similar in weight to something like a maple ply deck, with plenty of flex too. It's vertically laminated, about 9/16" in the center, with edges beveled down to about 1/4".
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Matrix
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On 3/8/2005 Dave G
wrote in from
United States
(207.69.nnn.nnn)
Heads I win, tails you lose!!!
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First attempt at home made deck
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On 3/8/2005
AdamH
wrote in from
United States
(66.177.nnn.nnn)
I recently made an attempt to make my own deck. I went to the HughR site and pretty much did what he said. Instead of a longboard I made a Pig Deck about 10" x 30". The shape turned out better than I expected- The wood was 1/2" birch ply. I soaked it for 17 hours in the bath tub and the next day, clamped it down on a jig made to keep the nose flat and give it a kicktail- similar to Bulldog's Flat Pig. Well the wood had a bad spot right where the transition for the kicktail is and it cracked. I decided to try and sand it out in attempt to make some wheel wells. I haven't done that yet.It also seems like the inner peice of ply is getting hairline cracks in different places. Is this deck going to explode when I put trucks on it ? I realized too late that HughR uses marine grade plywood. Where can I get that? Or, can anyone reccomend a way and a type of wood for me to make this shape deck. The shaping and warping part is something I pretty much have under control but I think I either soaked it too long or just picked the wrong type of wood. I thought the Birch would work great(Hell. it was about $14 for a 2'x4'x1/2". Any suggestions would be helpful. Also if you could recommend a site that explains using veneers and gluing and shaping them that would be cool. Thanks!!!
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was also thinkin' bout...
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On 3/8/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
...imbeddng a pair o' dimes in a gell matrix to act as a vibration dampers....
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simplicity at it's finest
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On 3/8/2005 Dave G
wrote in from
United States
(207.69.nnn.nnn)
Kan Yu Sai Chopstiks??
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big words little mind
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On 3/8/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
herbn: you're right about over complexity being the bane of the inventive mind.
showed cnova my latest concept yesterday and as the realization dawned upon him that glazed look of excitement took hold (and the smoke cleared the air). he had just came back from a trip out east arriving around 11:30 PM and walked into the shop because the light was on. he handed me a beer and got a look at something else i found a solution to over the weekend. i was reworking a core that was just about to finish when word came in from the chef who was racing a similar deck at the pump station (said it was stuttering on the turns). you ever tried to add material? add material to a compound contour? in foam? think about it... i'm fixing that bamboo/foam/carbon because a lot of work already went into it. we're on track to simplifying the formula.
generally people have no problem coming up w/things that are very difficult to do. it is that simple solution wich can prove to be the daunting task.
cheers!
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great new paradigm
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On 3/8/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
just cause stacy peralta has "vocabulary builder" toilet paper everybody gotta figure out a way to throw in that word,cool! Mosy of my really cool ideas that "someone might steal and make a mint" are so extravigant,labor intensive, that even if they were totally mass produced would be so expensive ,like my trucks,if radikals cost 175 or 300 or whatever,mine are three times as complicated,the latest ones are even more ridiculous,from a production standpoint.I doubt very much that a truely radicly different bamboo design could be produced as a cost effective product,ehh maybe ,keep the dream alive.
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CLAMPS
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On 3/7/2005
Greg Olsen
wrote in from
Canada
(206.172.nnn.nnn)
Everyone in North America must have got those clamps flooding their stores. We had them at the Canadian Tire chain here awhile ago. Musta been a good month for that Chinese factory. We are cutting our own economic throats by buying all that s#@! but I do it too....:( The tags are still on mine too heh heh heh
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Press
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On 3/7/2005 apwill44
wrote in from
United States
(24.52.nnn.nnn)
Got my veneer in the press today, I plan on removing it tomorrow.
very mild concave, I would have liked a little more, but I can always do it again.
After talking to some cabinet makers I decided to go with regular wood glue (titebond III). I was woried that I could not finish the layup in the 15 min gorilla glue allows. Plus that stuff is real expensive.
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bamboo is just tall grass
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On 3/7/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
the problem w/bamboo is that you can't apply the present paradigm and expect to get anything but the dismal results. as with using any material it is important to understand its parameters...
...then be ready to break the rules.
i've got a 42" pintail on the drawingboard but it's got a long way to go. creating new designs and developing new processes and then designing and building the tools to make it possible is what this one's going to take.
we had some good weather this weekend for testing our most recent concoction. it had turned out on the stiff side (interestingly) so cnova wound up w/ownership rights. didn't stop me from taking it through a riggorous set of trials. processed bamboo is a dense wood so it's bound to be heavy if its application were within the confines of accepted practices. my solution involves an unusual deck design (so sorry, can't help you there).
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bamboo pintail?
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On 3/7/2005
airin
wrote in from
Canada
(142.22.nnn.nnn)
I am researching the idea of a bamboo pintail longboard. Currently I have a fatboy bamboo flowboard which works well for the flow but the deck is stiff and heavy. The pin would be sleeker and could be trimmed down to make it lighter but I don't know if it would ever have much flex.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
thanks
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the voice of insanity ;-)
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On 3/7/2005
peters
wrote in from
United States
(64.236.nnn.nnn)
You're welcome Tom! btw hope that deck's comin' together for ya. Our next one is foam core and in the works, tricky making adjustments with foam. The basic formula: Loose trucks, stiffer deck. Tight performance trucks, flexier deck. - peters
> From: Tom T
> To: Peters
> Sent: Monday, February 28, 2005 6:24 PM
> Subject: Re: homemade deck...hill carving
> > James,
> >
> > Thankyou for all the terrific information! Wish I could skate...its 10
> > below and wet snow everywhere...this whole Canada thing... Anyway, about
> > those truck choices...very interesting. I notice no mention of
> > randalls...not so good on pumping? I've seen elsewhere recently a
> > preference for the Gullwing Cruisers... sounds like the 60 degree geometry
> > pumps and cruises even sweeter than the RII 180s, would you agree? You also
> > mention the idea of front-foot over the truck. That's
> > a great method for speed, eh? I'm trying to acheive those same results, but
> > with a "twist and carve" method...sort of hard to keep it going though...
> >
> > Talk soon,
> > Tom T
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already used
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On 3/7/2005
greg Olsen
wrote in from
Canada
(206.172.nnn.nnn)
I had tried it out and therefore it was grip taped. I wanted to add the glass to stiffen it as well as smooth out the bottom side visually. It rides nice but I will hve to inject some resin under areas that did not stick and complete it aesthetically.
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pics
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On 3/7/2005 greg Olsen
wrote in from
Canada
(206.172.nnn.nnn)
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I'm not groovy enough
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On 3/7/2005
greg Olsen
wrote in from
Canada
(206.172.nnn.nnn)
Tom T,
Struck a nerve? I'm fine. I am just not groovy enough to get the irony(perhaps or self-depracating faux stupidity) of the groovy guys on the other forum. No matter. Let them have their fun.
I did use what I think is 20 oz boat cloth just cause I liked the coarse weave pattern on the bottom of the WeFunk decks. But my deck was made of a top deck of 6mm piece of Baltic Birch the lower layer was made of a wierd plastic corrugated material with aluminum bonded to both sides. It was cut smaller and with wheel cutouts. I wanted to lay the glass over to make it look homogenous and like the underside of a foam deck like the WeFunk or similar. The transitions were too tight from one layer to the next. Vacuum would have held the cloth down though.I will get a picture up asap.
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vacu.... um
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On 3/4/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
...but that would just be overkill.
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knewmatic
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On 3/4/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
We're playing around with idea of some vacu-pneumatics using firehose for bladders.
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hydrolic,vacuum hybreed
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On 3/4/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
I would like to make a balsa and carbon pintail,or full cut type board,with the endgrain balsa core a wrap of carbon and then an ash strip as an edge, sort of like a cracked steel edge on a snowboard only full thickness,sliced to make it flex around the core,perhaps in a groove that's cut with a router, a vacumm bag to to hold the edges inplace and squeeze out extra glue, then a solid plate mechanical press for the surfaces,just because i trust it,just seems stronger.
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Greg O
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On 3/4/2005 tom t
wrote in from
Canada
(64.228.nnn.nnn)
Greg, guess I really touched a nerve (no pun intended).
About the Vac system...I use a very powerful 25"Hg vac at my job making orthopedic braces and I don't think anything less would put enough pressure. I never tried but seems a simple press would work every bit as well without the hassle, mess and expense(?)
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waves of epoxy
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On 3/4/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
if you carefully read into duane's post you may be able to deduce a technique we've been using to send waves of epoxy through whatever composite matterial you choose.
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wetting glass
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On 3/4/2005 Duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
I find it hard to believe that properly wetted glass will not lay down. I also don't use anything over the usual 6-8 oz/yd, but much heavier will still lay down if it is wet with resin.
I like to wet the glass first, I think this is essential, by brushing and squeegeeing on a dark-colored formica surface, that way when it becomes clear you know its fully wet, let soak for a minute or two, then sqeegee off extra and apply. There is no need to add any resin after that, just smooth with brush and roller and squeegee some more if you want. Even without a vacuum bag, you can use a piece of film I also tape the edges with narrow duct tape strips so you can pick the edges up without fraying, but don't do this on big contours because the glass will not be able to conform as well.
Harness satins conform more easily to contours as compared to plain weaves, but we're talking about curvatures very tight like around a softball or hardball diameter, any less than that should be easy unless you are using 20oz boat cloth.
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heavy glass
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On 3/4/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
how heavy? i think i would limit myself to about 8 oz i have mostly 5.5 i think my carbon is 7 or 8 ish but carbon is a dream as far as soaking with epoxy is concerned.Most of my current plans are for birch ply boards with hollow sections and endgrain balsa fillers,using glass or carbon in ways that it doesn't need to be sanded,routed or cut.Except with a scissor before gluing,of course. I have been thinking about vacuum bagging as well.JUst got an idea,if i close off my pressing frame ,with tarps,run a duct over to my insufficient(for the room)exhaust fan,install a heater. then i think i could vacuum bag and press at the same timeusing the vacuum bag to do the edges and pockets but press the outer flat surfaces with solid plates and hydrolics,some how i think that's better for strength than vacuum.
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I hear ya mate
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On 3/3/2005
Greg Olsen
wrote in from
Canada
(206.172.nnn.nnn)
Just butchered a project by thinking really heavy weave glass would lay down and stick on the bottom of a contoured deck underside. Just could not get the resin to flash in the unheated garage and the fabric to stay down. Need a vacuum bagging system.
TomT
Birds of a feather.... Just like I said before: Often your heroes are zeros.
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Greg O
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On 3/3/2005 tom t
wrote in from
Canada
(64.228.nnn.nnn)
Greg O,
Dude, glad I found a sane voice in that wilderness over there. Chee-zuss! Them fellas is , uh...wack.
Jack in Aurora,
About the boards...Glass on bottom, and if you like flex, use G2 epoxy (used in ski and snowboard manufacturing). For less flex, polyurethane glue is stiffer but may crack with age.
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Ricepaper
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On 3/2/2005
Jack in Aurora
wrote in from
United States
(207.69.nnn.nnn)
Ricepaper sounds interesting. I'll try it.
Cheers,
Jack in Aurora
God rides a longboard.
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