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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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Hotwire
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On 3/12/2005
Yan0
wrote in from
United States
(140.233.nnn.nnn)
Allright...
So I built a hotwire frame a while back, got the converter and "ajuster??" (yes.. am and idiot, its a light knob that adjusts voltage or amperage...not sure which) and wired it all up. I heard that you could use musical wire, so I strang up my bow and started to go knuts. About 15 seconds into the cutting the string broke.. same with the next.. and the next. I had my little knob barely on.. and the wire kept on breaking. could that be because I was pulling the string too tightly with two springs? or does the fault lay in the wire? I am going to try to cook up some foam molds and or foam cored boards next week.. and a functional hotwire would be awesome...
thanks
yan0
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the hump is fine...
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On 3/12/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
...it's just in the wrong place.
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I blew it
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On 3/12/2005 apwill44
wrote in from
United States
(24.52.nnn.nnn)
Alright guys, go ahead and tell me "I told you so"
I didnt use gorilla glue, I used titebondII. I pulled it out of the press to soon. The directions said cure time is 24 hours, I let it set for about 35. After talking to a Rep at Titebond I found out with that many plys the set time triples. The next board will be in the press Monday and wont come out for a week.
Its live and learn, thats for sure.
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bounce and weight
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On 3/10/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
I made a few real long boards ,rind of in that range,i used 3/4 i guess 17mm(?) but i grooved the wood on my table saw,maybe 3/16 deep x 3/4 wide on either side of the trucks and glued in a beam of 3/4 cut from the side of the 12 inch wide piece i started with. I could vary the thickness of the beam for overall thickness and on my current favorite board(not an extra long but still made with beams) i sanded down the ends of the beams to blend into the radius i put into the edge of the board,, it's a real cool look and functional as well.
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Drop though
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On 3/10/2005 Dave
wrote in from
United States
(67.168.nnn.nnn)
Thanks the chrischaput.com site helped.
yes 24mm is very thick but I don't want
flex. My wheelbase will be about 34" or
36" axle to axle. Chris made a shorter deck
but used DH trucks. I want more of a carve
board for up to 40 mph. I was in the upper
30's on a 60"X18mm flexy deck and did not
like the bouncy flex at speed.
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sf
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On 3/10/2005
frank
wrote in from
United States
(24.170.nnn.nnn)
Kinda like every other forum. If you dont constantly keep up you dont know who to yell at
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axle steel
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On 3/10/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
i've used neutral hard cromoly tubing for years and years, with no troubles. I do remember bending an axle once and straightening ,riding it for a while before getting paranoid and replacing it. I've thought about heat treating the stuff, you need a torch and high carbon cutting oil,they probabely make oils specificlly for heat treating, but you CANNOT use motoroil or three n one or most of the crap most people have laying around.You get the metal glowing red and dip it the oil,quenching. You wire brush it clean,it'll blacken with carbon. Then you carefully reheat it with your torch and watch for a yellowish "straw" color , you don't let it get to yellow and just let it cool. I wonder about warping and i don't have the the necessary tools for centerless grinding machine,and i don't want to spend the money or the time to send them out for that. I wouldn't mind buying geezer axles, those 10mm/8mm axles.
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silverfish
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On 3/10/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
i know it's the competition to this page and mentioning them might be taboo, although the link sort of survived but this is sort of negative (about silverfish),is it me or is silverfish impossible to follow? i read someone dis someone about not knowing ther sht and i can for the life of me find the post they were refering to, the posts seem very random.
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Dammit!!
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On 3/9/2005 Dave G
wrote in from
United States
(4.249.nnn.nnn)
I had a long response re: shifty's and fatty's (please no more references to " "we go both ways" from Fatty to Shifty!!! The neighbors will talk!!! Shifty has a concept that will "blow your socks plumb off...butt that's another fetish all-two-gether
Kan U sai Skroll?
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bamboopalooza
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On 3/9/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
in due time your big hugeness. getting away from all that techno schtuff. gonna go analog.
guarantee you're gonna freak...
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A2 tool steel, annealed, for axles
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On 3/9/2005
sc
wrote in from
United States
(68.4.nnn.nnn)
{{{technical question here fer me GH friends}}}
Regarding the properties of certain steel, in particular A2 Air-True Tool Steel that's been annealed for machining. I've got an 8mm x 36" rod of it. If I cut it and die the ends for 5/16-24, will it be suitable for axles? The question has to do with the properties of it in it's "annealed & machined but not hardened" state. Would it be better left unhardened since the hardening would make it more brittle and the annealing has already made it tougher/less likely to break? Or would it be better to harden it at least somewhat since the annealing has made the steel softer and more likely to bend? Who knows about this shiite?
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more 'boo talk
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On 3/9/2005
airin
wrote in from
Canada
(154.20.nnn.nnn)
ha, ha, ha..... Fatty I laughed my head off at your 'sandwich' comment - good one!
Now you stop tempting me with all those bamboo board ideas....LOL
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native
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On 3/9/2005 Fatty
wrote in from
United States
(67.85.nnn.nnn)
Ha! I knew it!
Aloha Lloyd, how goes it?
NOW I'm intrigued, what are you working on? The decks that I saw at the Farm seemed real high tech, although it was really just a glimpse that I had. Looked like there was some carbon involved. That's something we've been kicking around as well. Maybe you could pass along some advice from that wealth of knowledge you have.................
Airin, beveling would help, but thinning would help as well in adding flex and overall lightening of the deck. I have indeed had SANDWICHES heavier than 125lbs!! Engineering a deck for your size and weight is something that we take great pride in at LBF Inc. The Flowlab deck that you have is made to their specs, that's how they designed it. We (meaning you AND LBF) can design your pintail virtually any way you want it - firm, flexy, long, short, purple, yellow.
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drop through birch
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On 3/9/2005 Duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
I've made several in 15mm birch which seems stiff enough, but they do wobble more at speed than concave maple decks like the Kebbeks or big red x. It seems like the tail wags more which I've chalked up to torsional stiffness. birch gives a better cruising ride than maple, though, great for pintails.
I hope its still there but www.chrischaput.com had great drop-through templates, including the clearance needed for wheel cut-outs, that work with wheels up to 90mm without hitting.
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i like workin with shapeshifter
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On 3/9/2005
cfav
wrote in from
United States
(69.3.nnn.nnn)
sometimes i feel like the chimp in the space capsule.cf
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euthanasia
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On 3/9/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
airin weighs as much as fatboy's big toe. no doubt there's a way to come up w/something in that range.
dat wus me, the native... as in i spent a lot of my childhood as a youth in asia. bamboo is in my blood (probably from all those slivers).
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'boo board
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On 3/9/2005
airin
wrote in from
Canada
(142.22.nnn.nnn)
So Fatty, beveling the edges of the 'boo board may be the ticket to lightening up the deck am gaining some flex? The bamboo is stronger than a similar board, in say, maple, of the same size however, at 125 lbs, I don't really needs truckloads of strength in a deck. As well, at my weight it is tough to get flex in even a regular board.
Maybe I'm barking up the wrong tree, as it were, in thinking that I can get a bamboo board that is relatively light with some flex given the quality of bamboo currently available for boardbuilding.
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my doucheyness
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On 3/9/2005
Fatty
wrote in from
United States
(67.94.nnn.nnn)
hmmmmmm.............
I DO remember a guy right next to us with some decks that he had made, real high tech lookin' stuff...............
Native as in from Connecticut?
Native as in Indian?
Nativity as in that little setup under the tree?
Nativity in Black as in Black Sabbath?
Native as in gimme a hint!
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Birch drop Through
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On 3/9/2005
Yan0
wrote in from
United States
(140.233.nnn.nnn)
Dave,
if my offhand calculations are right (unlikely) that wood you are using is just over 1"thick.. I am guessing 17 or 19 ply... but like I said thats a stab in the dark. I have made several dropthrough decks using birch, two using 15ply bb (approx 3/4) and one using a with laminated 15 ply (3 boards of 5ply) to get some concave in there. Never done it with Randall II-180's (or 150's for that matter), allways used the R-DH trucks. I am far from an expert, but what I do is draw up a template of the baseplate, not the outer dimensions, but the inner ones. You want to cut a hole so that the flange (the real base) on the baseplate sits on the top of the deck, and the kingpin and pivot drop through. Trace your template onto the board, drill holes in the corners, and go knuts wit a jigsaw. After that, take a dremel and chamfer the edges a bit so that the baseplate will be flat on the deck.. use the dremel to make space where you need it..... you will catch on quick. If you feel like you need a visual reference, check out speed board 2 and board 13 on my site. www.geocities.com/runyan0/pages/projects.html
I have another week before I can get dusty again.... counting the days.
Yan0
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douchebag...
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On 3/9/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
you might know me by some other names but i was that native guy hangin' out near you guys at the pharm...
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'boo
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On 3/9/2005
Fatty
wrote in from
United States
(67.94.nnn.nnn)
"not to worry, i'll let you know how the experiment turns out and probably see you out at the races again this year."
again? ah, we've met before?
Then you're fully aware of my douchebag status!
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extra-vert
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On 3/9/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
I'm w/you on the vertical preference. but not so quick to write off the horizontal for the way it ties it altogether. we mix it up a bit and tend to put the horizontal on the outside mainly for aesthetic reasons.
also taking a close look into the lathed vineers which essencially turns out to resemble the horizontal in performance but visually has the knuckle line running all the way accross the sheet as if all the individual slats were perfectly aligned. might have to take a little trip to the islands to source this stuff out though.
really like the way the stuff can take a bashing too. seems to crumple down absorbing the hit instead of delamming or splintering like one would expect.
not to worry, i'll let you know how the experiment turns out and probably see you out at the races again this year.
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Drop deck.
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On 3/9/2005 Dave
wrote in from
United States
(67.168.nnn.nnn)
I have some 24mm baltic birch that I want to
make a drop deck out of. Using randal 180's and
32-36" wheel base. Is this a good idea and any tips.
By drop deck I mean to mount the trucks though the deck
from the top. Thanks Dave
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'boo
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On 3/9/2005
Fatty
wrote in from
United States
(67.94.nnn.nnn)
No worries Shifty! We go both ways - horizontal as well as vertical lamination. Horizontal looks more like bamboo flooring, which is what folks are used to seeing. Vert looks like: //////////, personally I like the vert for it's weight/flex/strength, but it doesn't look as dramatic as the horizontal.
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boo!
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On 3/9/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
hey there big guy... didn't really know how you were assembling your lams and that fact that you tapered the deck at the edges too. looks like you're building on sound construction principals, those decks are gonna be rock solid.
we're putting together a press to execute the next phase of deck development. vacuum just doesn't cut it with the shapes we are trying to pull out of this stuff. not sure if my concept will prove any lighter but can guarantee that it will be quite different from anything anyone's ever encountered. of course none of this would be visible to the naked eye so it will all come down to performance.
when most people handle raw bamboo they have the impression that it is light because it's basically a hollow tube. processing bamboo alters its dimensions and ultimately its behavior. it's only when one finds ways to manipulate this particular material and control its boundaries of performance that will make it possible to tap into its inherent potential.
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