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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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vacuum
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On 3/16/2005 apwill44
wrote in from
United States
(24.52.nnn.nnn)
I plan on stepping up to a vacuum pump system when I figure this out. Ive never laminated anything before so im learning this one step at a time. I have planned on building a vacuum pump system that I can use with the mold that Ive pressed with. Soon I will graduate to vacuum, after that epoxy, and then some light weight materials with foam core.
Thank you for all your input.
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m m e e t t a a l l s s
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On 3/16/2005
sc
wrote in from
United States
(64.60.nnn.nnn)
Hey herbn - thanks for your metals input (thanks to the other guy too). I think I'm getting it dialed now. Still, that 7075 is really expensive. Are you sure it's really that much better (for what we do) than 6061?
Another thing - didja ever sell your speed trucks/board on Ebay? If not, I am still interested in the trucks. Let me know.
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spell check
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On 3/16/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
oops... i misspelled highdroolick
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de press
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On 3/16/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
dave: wouldn't it actually depend on the mould? i realize that the structure of apwill44's press comprised the surface of the mould but it also acted as the mould in any case.
i could be wrong but from what i know, presses exist in many forms: mechanical, pneumatic, hydrolic, and vacuum are a few that come to mind.
as you can see i'm no expert so let me attempt to express it from a neophyte's point of view. from past experience with vacuum presses i've come to believe that the mould one uses to form the material (wood in this case) can have a huge effect on the plys (causing or preventing voids). if the transitions on the mould are too sharp or illogically placed the plys may fold or bridge (also true in the case of mechanical presses).
the precision of the mould dictates the form the final product will take and ultimately it's the knowlege of the materials you use (to make the press/mould/deck etc.) that can only be gained through experience. and remember sometimes it's those mistakes which can open new doors.
...anything you care to add duane (he's the mould expert and probably disagrees w/my spelling). igottaroll
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Gorilla Alternative
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On 3/16/2005
Paul
wrote in from
United States
(132.175.nnn.nnn)
This is the stuff that's just like Gorilla glue but for much cheaper. The local Home Depot carries it here in Albuquerque. One bottle is enough for at least 3 10" x 48" boards.
http://www.elmers.com/product/product_page.asp?pCode=P9402
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Press
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On 3/16/2005 Dave
wrote in from
United States
(67.168.nnn.nnn)
The danger with a press is that
it may not give even pressure and
you get voids. Vacuum bagging with
epoxy solves this but is more work.
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sticky icky icky
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On 3/15/2005 apwill44
wrote in from
United States
(24.52.nnn.nnn)
Ive already taken care of the beam with 3 cross braces that will help distribute the pressure evenly. Plus I got rid of those Harbor Freight piece of crap claps and replaced them with real clamps. I will give the Titebond another shot, but this time its staying in the press for a week.
As for the board, R.I.P, I cut it so I could see what was going on inside, a little bit of CSI work.
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getting glued
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On 3/15/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
that titebondII you got should do the trick if you take the advice posted previously (ie: put your layup in a warm place, keep the clamps on longer, etc.)
one thing cnova (the engineer who works w/me) did notice is that you didn't have any support off that center beam. they're too long to be left as is and deflection would cause your plys to splay out towards the center. you may aleviate this by setting up a few beams perpendicular to that center beam, top and bottom and clamp them against each other.
now cut out a shape from that botched up one and see how the bubble feels underfoot. it can open your mind to other possibilities. not to worry, you'll understand when you see what i've been working on for the last six months.
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protection
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On 3/15/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
copywrights offer much when it comes to protecting product ideas. it is more applicable to documents. trademarks are for logos company and product names. patents come in three flavors design, utility and plant. for the most part design patents would cover what you have in mind but a minor change could easily subvert the process. utility patents apply to original concepts that...
...ah screw it, here ya go, read this.
Oh yeah, once you do get a patent/copywright/trademark if you want to enforce it you have to be ready to shell out a minimum of $20,000 (legal fees etc.) Now you gotta ask yourself... is it worth it?
for me it is.
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glueber
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On 3/15/2005 apwill44
wrote in from
United States
(24.52.nnn.nnn)
Im going to lay up my next board tomorrow. I guess I should just sack up and spend the 40 bucks its going to cost for Gorilla glue. Any other cost effective suggestions?
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Copyrights, anyone?
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On 3/15/2005 Newport Beach board maker
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
Lookin' for some help
Does anyone know how a newbie shaper might get the law to work for him? I'm thinking copyrights, trademarks, and all that other stuff the big guys get. I'm looking to start selling some of these things and I am trying to watch my back from those that mean me harm.
Massive thanks to the knowledgable masses
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I want my royalties
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On 3/15/2005 duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
I checked the date on my photos of drop plates of my own construction, april 13 2002, I guess I shoulda paid my $30 for a trademark. Mine are even black just like the Pogos, and drop into 1" routed slots just like the Pogos. Concurrent design ?
Oh to think what I could have done with $5.23 cents worth of royalties...
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grades of aluminum
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On 3/15/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
you want a "considered opinion" well you asked for it:) I am totally a believer in using 7075 t6, a356 is a sand casting,or probabely a general casting alloy, some parts are forged or die cast ,then cleaned off reshaped or detailed with a milling machine,usually the best alloy this is done with is 7005 ,i have a bike stem made like that,it's pretty cool. The 7000 series is 50 percent stronger than 6061 and 33 percent stonger than 2024,2024 has quite a bit of a heavyish alloying material,"cadnium i think",parts made from 2024 are a bit heavy but real durable. 7075 t6 has a tight springy feel that just isn't matched by that other stuff,threads in 7075 are really hard to strip,you can make the threaded areas shorter.
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ally trux
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On 3/14/2005
Fitz
wrote in from
Australia
(203.164.nnn.nnn)
Hey SC, I'm not sure what grade a357 aluminium is. maybe just a different name for same alloys we have here in australia. Must check it out. I've made a proto baseplate from 5083 aluminium alloy and it seems to work well. Ive also got precision baseplates to suit randal hangars nearly finished. Pogo beat me to it!
6061 is actually even better cause it has better corrosion resistance with much the same strength.
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aluminum alloy for trucks
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On 3/14/2005
sc
wrote in from
United States
(68.4.nnn.nnn)
heyall
who's got the most considered opinion on using machined a357 aluminum for trucks? ... i mean, does anyone think that going up to a357 is necessary or worth it vs. plain aluminum? what other alloys are people using successfully?
thankee
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Hotwire..again
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On 3/14/2005 Yan0
wrote in from
United States
(140.233.nnn.nnn)
I have a dransformer AC-->DC which I think negates the need for a battery. The Transformer is wired to a Rheostat (the amp/voltage control thingy). I am sure I have it wired up right... the bow is pretty short though.. like 11". Ill make a longer one and try the nichrome wire, thanks for the help.
Yan0
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hotwire
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On 3/14/2005 Roboto PDX
wrote in from
United States
(67.166.nnn.nnn)
You can get nichrome wire from a number of supply companies. www.sciplus.com comes to mind also www.mcmaster.com
if you want to rip somting out of old junk I would recommend an old toster or many old waffle irons that I have taken apart have good nichrome.
Build a good tall bow and use a heavy duty clip leads to adjust the temp.
You can attach the wire to the bow with simple bolts. as long as the wire touching the wood is not charged it will not burn.
the shorter the charged wire the hotter it gets.
always use a battery rather then the wall.
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Titebond
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On 3/14/2005 Gluer
wrote in from
Canada
(24.108.nnn.nnn)
Well it looks like your board was delaming....i have found that when using Titebond, you gota have your board gluing up in a warm room. You cant have it outside in cold temps, it just wont set proplerly.
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yeah, what duane said..
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On 3/14/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
in other words it would massage these old flat feet...
...been making boards that since early y2k.
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coincidence?
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On 3/14/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
my first thought was ,"what's the problem?,looks like a bulldog"
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Bubble trouble
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On 3/14/2005 Duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
Maybe shapeshifter would want that bubbled laminate...that bubble would fit right between the phalanges and metatarsals, leading to increased engagement upon plantar flexion creating an additional sinusiodal force vector in the transverse direction, thus increasing forward momentum.
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titbond 2
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On 3/13/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
i guess since it's a one part glue,it's got to be air drying,otherwise it would dry in the bottle(it sort of does that,to a degree).so when gluing plys the solvent from the middle of the board has to migrait through the glue on the edges,keeping it wet) and evaporate out into the air.Or it has to seep throught he plys,hmmm,hardly ideal or plys.I only do vlams and titebond is good for that, biggest problem is drying to fast,during complicated lay ups. I started a 5 footer,i'm have two grooved strips as edges and a couple of different crossply materials;eight inch 5 ply long ply in the middle of the board,1/8 inch ply crossply towards where the trucks are gonna be,1/8 inch poplar strips as full cross grain out under the trucks and a new idear(as the rednecks say on occ)1/8 aluminum at the very tips.i'm gonna sanwich in some carbon and glass, the cross grai is a bit low in the board, so the fiber layers will be a bit more in tension than in compression,i may or may not have glass/carbon on the outside of the board,i'd rather not,mostly to keep the board looking traditional. I might weave the carbon sheet around the bottom of one or two of th base strips to make a carbon stinger.
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Hotwire
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On 3/12/2005 Dave
wrote in from
United States
(67.168.nnn.nnn)
I have used stainless steel fishing leader.
Try using your car battery. Don't use AC!
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hotwire
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On 3/12/2005
frank
wrote in from
United States
(24.170.nnn.nnn)
Try an appliance repair shop. Ask for the wire that goes in ice makers. I hooked mine up to a car battery charger with different amp settings.
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apwill's delima
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On 3/12/2005 Dave G
wrote in from
United States
(207.69.nnn.nnn)
Yup... Just as I thought.While studying the evidence, it appears that a young "delamammoth" took a dump on your work before it was cured! Gorilla's gripe tends to ward off these nasty animals' foul tendencies to leave their "calling turds" be"hind" (site)
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