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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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art...
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On 4/1/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
...is always rethinking technology.
sorry to set you off balance herbn, just swimming in my previous mindstream, the search for the perfect board. guess i do my best thinking out loud.
the scenario depicted is actually quite simple once conceptualized. what i didn't realize was how difficult it actually is to execute. the closest parallel would be like cooking. when making bread you have eggs, water, flour, yeast, salt, etc. assemble that and you have a blob of floppy dough. but once you're both baked... well, then you'll have something to much on.
at the moment i think i'm looking at a bunch of... doh!
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beano boards
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On 4/1/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
cool,it just pains me a bnit when some one buy that hartdwood vineered stuff and glues it up and expects it to actually work like real hardwood. The thinner your layers in a layup the closer to the mold shape you'll get. Is shape shifter for real? sounds excessively tech,techmystical making thing sound more complicated than necessary for the purpose of impressing the rest of us. I mean that post came out of nowhere,for no other apparent reason.whew!
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ShiftyShaper
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On 4/1/2005 DAve G
wrote in from
United States
(207.69.nnn.nnn)
You took the words right outta my mouph!
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slalom
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On 4/1/2005 bean-a-reano
wrote in from
United States
(216.89.nnn.nnn)
Dave - I already built a solid plank 10 plies 19 and 20" adjustable wheelbase. I like it, but I like a cambered flexy board even better i.e. a roe foam core, and PP foam core. I just don't have the money or experience to get one.
Herbn - I meant to say 1/8" 3 ply. It is the good stuff. I also have the 1/4" 5 ply. Which combo should I use?
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finishing your deck
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On 3/31/2005
Julien
wrote in from
United States
(129.133.nnn.nnn)
Hey, I would say spray paint some graphics on the bottom (make nice stencils and do them over a base color)
Then you can seal the whole thing with Polyurethane spray. You should ideally use a few layers and sand a little in between but you can cheat that a bit.
Make sure to be in a well ventilated area too cuz those fumes are nasty
Julien
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unfinished deck
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On 3/31/2005
eddie
wrote in from
United States
(64.132.nnn.nnn)
allright. i bought a home made unfinished deck. any good ideas on how a beginner should finish it?
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...but then again
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On 3/31/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
synetic structures would apply (more so than a tensegral approach) because a strong, lightweight structural system wherein curved structural elements are tangentially joined makes more sense in the real world. where compressive forces are distributed in a near continuous manner throughout the matrix. the tensile forces in the system are present primarily to brace, support and pre-stress the compression net.
tensegrity's spar and tendon just doesn't figure the same.
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phi
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On 3/31/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
creating structures which employ minimal amounts of material requires an intimate understanding of the principals of tensegrity.
the best way to approach such a structure is through the synergistic relationships between the top skin the bottom skin and the core. the integrity of such a structure is defined through the interaction between these three basic elements. if any one of these elements are compromised failure is inevitable. examples of these relationships are reflected in natural design.
if one would consider a board of such golden proportions it could be postulated that such a deck would negate the need for wheel wells or cutaway as this would be inherent in the design.
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re beano rean o
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On 3/31/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
3 ply ,quarter inch, doesn't sound like top grade stuff, sounds like a low grade core with surface vineers(sp?).1/4 inch baltic is usually 5 ply.
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Slalom
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On 3/31/2005 dave
wrote in from
United States
(67.168.nnn.nnn)
I would start with 12mm flat 19"-20".
Camber is overated.
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duane
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On 3/31/2005 bean-a-reano
wrote in from
United States
(216.89.nnn.nnn)
The 3 ply sheet is 1/4 inch. What you are saying is if I double it I will be alright. I want it to be pretty flexy. I have not worked with glass before, and don't want to with this project.
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Aesthetic Glassing
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On 3/30/2005 Tim
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(138.251.nnn.nnn)
Hi. I want to add an aesthetic layer to my deck, under clear grip tape. I'm going to add a layer of thin cotton material which i then want to glass on - because it's only for looks I wasn't thinking I would add an extra layer of fiber. A few questions: 1) do you think this will work (it is thin cotton sheeting)? 3) should I add fibre? 4) what sort of resin should I use? 5) should i use some other sort of glue maybe?
thanks guys.
tim
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dude
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On 3/30/2005 eddie
wrote in from
United States
(70.112.nnn.nnn)
the deck comes un-finished. should i finish it with something or leave it alone?
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birch
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On 3/30/2005 duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
if you do not glass it, you will want around 1/2" total thickness if you want some flex. 5/8" total will be stiff at 21" wb.
if you want it more flexy, then go thinner with some glass. that's harder to predict, but you can always add, not subtract. something around 3/8" thick with a single layer of 5.8 oz glass on each side may work OK. thinner boards will be more responsive but will take more glass, better to leave those until your glass skills are better, or you may have failures.
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slalom
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On 3/30/2005 bean-a-reano
wrote in from
United States
(216.89.nnn.nnn)
I have 3 and 5 ply baltic birch sheets. I want to build a ts/hybrid slalom board. I want camber and roughly a 21" wheelbase. I weighed myself today 146 lbs with gear. What combo of wood am I going to need to make this? Will I need to glass it?
thanks
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dood
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On 3/29/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
pick one up even if it's too long or too wide.
if you wind up not liking its shape...
...you can always change it.
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dude
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On 3/29/2005 nic
wrote in from
United States
(204.108.nnn.nnn)
dude go with the home made board youll feel alot better telling people its home made and nice choice for wood my home made board is baltic birch
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need help with buying a home made deck
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On 3/29/2005
eddie
wrote in from
United States
(70.112.nnn.nnn)
im really new. dont really know what im looking for. i like to carve downhill.
the deck i am looking at is 46 inches long by 10 inches, and 3/4 inch thick 13 ply Baltic Birch plywood. $30. or should i just go buy a name brand deck?
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typo
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On 3/28/2005 duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
that's 5/16" core
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at 5/16"...
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On 3/28/2005 duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
two layers of 5.8 oz carbon top and bottom would have been my guess. At that point probably half your pre-load would spring back. My last board is about 5/6" core and I put one 5.8 oz at 45/-45 and one 9 ounce at 0/90 on each side and its too stiff. But its also short. I'm using concave cores so no spring back in that direction. I may rout off some of the carbon in strips => racing stripes
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Vlammed Ash
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On 3/27/2005
Yan0
wrote in from
United States
(140.233.nnn.nnn)
Just got done a vlammed ash board. The ash is 5/16" and I laminated one layer of 5.8oz carbon on the bottom and some heavy doubble bias glass on top. I pressed it in the same jig I usually press my birch boards in (about 1" of camber and some concave). When I took it out it retained allmost no camber and just a bit of concave. Is this because vlams "bounce back" much more than a regularally lamiated board? or is it because there simply isnt enough cloth on the board to hold it in place. The board is pretty soft for my 165lbs.. real soft. Next time I will either add more cloth or make the core thicker.. perhaps both.. but the thicker I make the core the less it will retain the shape I press it in.. suggestions?
danke
yan0
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End grain balsa
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On 3/27/2005 Dave
wrote in from
United States
(67.168.nnn.nnn)
http://fiberglasssupply.com/Product_Catalog/Core_Materials/core_materials.html
I have never tried it but it seems like a good idea.
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the price of foam...
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On 3/26/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
can also be cost prohibitive. the most expensive aspect of shaping seems to to be the...
...beer.
the staggering expense of maintaining liquid libations during a weeks worth of shaping is well worth price.
thoughts of bringing a honeycomb core into shape crossed our minds over the past month. by freezing it in water we can grind it to our specifications. this way we can bring the edges down to a dealable deapth to bury it in the composite. with winter waning this concept will have to wait another year.
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foam's downfall
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On 3/25/2005 duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
foam is a nice material that does best in composites that are meant to be totally rigid. Its weak point is shear strength (similar but not identical to tensile strength). When the skins on a board are loaded, one wants to go one way, and the other, the other way so the foam is put under shear. Eventually the foam layer right next to the skin weakens and breaks down, allowing separation and folding.
Shear strength can be approximated by trying to tear a chunk out of the surface of something with your fingernails. Foam, easy to rip. Regular balsa, harder but not impossible to dislogde splinters. End grain balsa, you get nada, very tough to rip since the fibers are bundled straight up and down, and you have to tear through them to rip out a hunk. Honecombs also do very well here but I think the problems with how to knit up the edges, and the expense, outweigh the benefits.
End grain balsa is the man among lightweight cores for delam resistance.
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Jestah
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On 3/25/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
good to see you posting again.
to be honest all of my composite decks were a combination of wood/carbon or wood/foam and carbon/glass.
decks which i've ridden in the past have been constructed of foam and glass, turners, icks, and the hitchcocks were the specific models. you're correct in the assumption that the foam disintegrates with time. depending on the design they either slowly get mushy though i've had some snap at speed and under high stress.
i truly believe that a very light yet substantial deck can be assembled with only bamboo and glue. how is this possible?
...well that's the secret.
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