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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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randal dropthrough template
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On 5/22/2005
hack
wrote in from
(70.93.nnn.nnn)
anyone know where I can download a template for dropping through randal 180s?
I coulda sworn chaput had one on his website... or maybe hughr? but I couldn't find it
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homemade buttboard
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On 5/21/2005 ben
wrote in from
United States
(66.190.nnn.nnn)
A friend of mine hit over 60 on a homemade buttboard that I constructed on the same scenic highway dave g mentions below. He had white kryptonics (70mm) and one melted (puked the wheel).
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Wrong Forum BARRY.
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On 5/21/2005
Greg Olsen
wrote in from
Canada
(206.172.nnn.nnn)
Barry Dude,
This is a discussion group about homemade skate equipment. Try another forum like the longboarding forum on this same site or the Silverfish longboasding site etc. You won't get an answer here cause you are knocking on the wrong door and just looking a bit dim.
Move on or discuss homemade trucks, decks or whatever. Good luck.
Grego
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Hey JAKE! Clear Grip Tape
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On 5/20/2005 Todd
wrote in from
Canada
(199.60.nnn.nnn)
Jake,
I use clear grip tape on my longboard, and you can see the woodgrain through it, but its really just 50% translucent.
You do get a build-up of road grime where you stand on it, but a scrub brush does a good job of sweeping most of it off.
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here's a trick for you...
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On 5/18/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
...make one!
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tricks
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On 5/16/2005 yan0
wrote in from
United States
(69.164.nnn.nnn)
Try one of the riding forums. Freeriding, soulriding, whatever. Also try specifics as to what you want to do, slide? or just look really cool. Unless I totally misusnderstood you.. you want to do tricks riding your board, not making it.
Best of luck
Yan0
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still waiting
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On 5/16/2005
barry
wrote in from
United States
(67.164.nnn.nnn)
im still trying to do tricks with my longboard its hard and bloody but hay who the hel;l cares about blood anyway?
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my gravity longboard
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On 5/15/2005
barry
wrote in from
United States
(158.80.nnn.nnn)
ok i have been riding my long board for about 2 months now and i can barly do a trick, what can i do to learn new tricks? also i wondered if there is a group or something i can join to be a part of a longboard comm.
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big wheels
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On 5/14/2005 duane
wrote in from
United States
(165.121.nnn.nnn)
mostly they are faster because they don't fall into small holes, and climb easier over small bumps. On incredibly smooth surfaces, the advantage disappears. But on most roads the difference is significant.
The difference in inertia is smaller than you think, the energy of your body going 35 mph is around 5000 joules, the rotational energy of a 180mm wheel weighing a pound, same speed, under 30 joules. Times four, still less than 3% of total.
The compound is crucial, it has to be good urethane, and urethane needs to be around 20mm deep minimum, or it will be slower on bad roads
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@ YanO....BIG WHEELS
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On 5/14/2005
Tod
wrote in from
United States
(12.148.nnn.nnn)
Another factor is the shallower angle of attack to the road suface...
Ahhh, the physical world...comprehend, then exploit!!! happy speeding!!!
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ShapeFa'Nova
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On 5/13/2005
Dave G ..aka..winged
wrote in from
United States
(207.69.nnn.nnn)
I'll Huff, and PUFF ...and BLOOOWWW your ...cough cough
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hmmmm, shoulda set the timer
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On 5/13/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
wow! had to check my timeline by going back a few posts and though i've been working on this particular deck design since september. the three decks i mentioned in the previous post only came about within the last month and a half. seems a whole lot longer...
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cooked up or eaten alive...
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On 5/13/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
when you're making things in such a way as none other has been able to do it before; there comes a point when you just gotta sacrifice a few in order to find out if in fact you're doing something right. the decks we're working on these days have a pretty plain look about them on the outside while all the real magic happens within. so after a few weeks worth of work to do the latest build (figuring out the processes and getting over the fear etc.) it only took an hour's worth of riding before we took a saw to the deck to see how the guts came out.
no, it wasn't quite perfect, but we're sure getting close.
three boards chowed in the last four months. the first one was too weak (crushable), the second one too solid (no flex), and then the third was right there (it did have one fixable flaw)... almost like little red riding hood or was that the three little pigs. either way i guess there was a wolf involved but it only seems to have a hunger for money!
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Big Wheels
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On 5/13/2005
Dave G
wrote in from
United States
(207.69.nnn.nnn)
YanO,
I've had a few sets of 4" Road Riders and Park Riders and UFO the biggest impact (pardon the expression) is length of the hill! I've never got 1 set to max out...they just kept hummin' higher and higher and higher...ooops ahhh..., I'm better now. But the speed is slow comming and the outcome is outrageous! My wife drove behind me on a 9 mi. section og the scenic hghwy here in WV 15 years ago and I got 62 mph and was still getting faster when the hill flattened(several don't believe..but I was there w/ a few friends) So, my point being is ..in a (fairly.. straight, ) long line bigger is faster! But I can't imagine the needed hill to max the speed out of monster wheels! They just hummmm higher and higher and ohhh... ,I did it again.
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Physics of big wheels
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On 5/13/2005 Yan0
wrote in from
United States
(69.164.nnn.nnn)
just wondering....
I KNOW that big wheels are faster, I am just curious as to why. They have a much larger moment of inertia, meaning that they maintain more rotational momentum, but it takes more torque to get them rolling. Also, because they are bigger they require fewer rpms for any given speed than another wheel. This equates to less energy lost to friction in the bearings. Those are the two factors I can think of... are there more? if not/so which factors make the largest difference.
Getting back to the moment of inertia deal.. if you have a wheel of a given size, would a lighter wheel, lets say with a fairly hollow core and the PU on the outside. Or would a more massive wheel like the Turner aliva that is PU all the way through be faster because it has a larger rotational momentum??
Yan0
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somethin' cookin'
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On 5/13/2005 Duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
something is coming from a long way away, with modifications to be made when it gets here. 180mm wheels will be fit up. How fast are these wheels ? Go speedboard with 50mm wheels, against someone with 80mm wheels, that's about the difference between 80mm and 180mm. More so on rough roads of course.
I'll be testing this beast on some of my favorite hills, to see how much faster it is, than my best speedboard. If the difference is as large as I think it will be, then I may have to race it. Not many races have no limits on board size, weight, and wheel size, but at least one race does not. Is there hope through technology, for fat, non-athletic chair jockeys ? we'll see. When they ban you, that's when you know you were right.
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1/4 inch 3 ply
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On 5/11/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
usually good 1/4 is 5ply and glass in the bmiddle usually is not as efective as glass on the bottom top glass kind of balences the rebound a bit. I kind of like three layers of wood lets say a core and woden skins, put the glass or carbon betwwen the core and the skins. For simplicity 5/8 or 3/4 multiply is the best,multiply will be 11 or 13 ply all the same wood ,a 48 x24 piece shouldn't cost to much more than thirty bucks much cheaper than that and you should start suspiciously eyeing the middle plys thick soft layers mean its not multiply. If a friend of yours has a board your loking to copy just borrow it and drill carefully(don't oval them out) through the holes,and line the board up with mounting holes and trace,make your friend a copy for the use of his board as a template.
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clear grip
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On 5/11/2005
jake
wrote in from
(65.190.nnn.nnn)
I made a hardwood longboard and was wondering if anybody had suggestions about clear grip that you would still be able to see the grain of the wood.
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core idea
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On 5/10/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
nice work there sir...
...once took a couple of old rocco (rockered) fs decks and had a (car) painter do a number on them. he painted one gold flaked with a painted in "wood grain" stringer. the other one in a blue murano w/haunting moonscape shadows. sure miss those suckers.
about ready to cut into my new one now that it's emerged from the hot box. a term which may amply describe that i'm making would seem to be something with a structured core.
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Homemade decks
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On 5/10/2005 GlenD
wrote in from
United States
(216.102.nnn.nnn)
Here are a couple of decks I made.
Well one I made, a rockered deck and one I just did the artwork on.
http://www.creative-license.com/skate/decks/
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frito bendito
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On 5/10/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
i used to know a gurl named hobie bender. she was named for hobie alter because her dad was great friends with the surfboard shaper back in their day...
...been on a couple of benders w/that woman on many occasion too.
i've been able to pull off a pretty rigid structure w/o the use foam or wood in the core (actually it has no core). i instead created several i-beams using fibre and epoxy which function as stand offs for the structure which is provided by the outer skin. set one off last night and it should be ready for a bit post cure cooking when i get home from work. hopin' this one will bend a bit for my 190 lbs. some people out there already know what i'm talkin' about.
lining up everything was almost like a ship-in-the bottle technique and you know that we all huff to breathe a little.
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bender's bender
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On 5/10/2005 Duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
Bender that will be a flex-o-matic. Skip the glass in the center entirely. If you need to glur up 2 cores, just use titebond. Use all the glass on the skins. I would think a 1/2" core with 2 layers of 6 oz glass on each side (one at a 45 degree angle to give good torsional strength) will yeild the rock you desire.
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!
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On 5/10/2005 DAve G
wrote in from
United States
(207.69.nnn.nnn)
DOCTOR!!!!!! I said "DOCTOR!!!!!"
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blender...
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On 5/10/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
...put the lime in the coconut and mix it all up.
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bender's board(? bending?)
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On 5/10/2005
yan0
wrote in from
United States
(140.233.nnn.nnn)
Bender,
As to the epoxy, I use West system epoxy with a fast (205) hardener. I would reccomend it, but I know there are plenty of other deserving systems out there as well.
If you like no flex I would think you would want to beef up the board a bit more than that... I just made an ash board with a 1/2" core split down the middle (so two 1/4"planks) with a similar setup. biax Glass/vlammed ash/uni glass/uni glass/vlammed ash/biax glass. The board was 50" long, and pretty flexy. You could have allready tried the setup and allready proven me wrong.. but it just seems like it would be a better construction for a cruising board than an I-beam like speed board. Even the speed boards I cut out of 3/4"BB flex a bit and need to be reinforced with carbon/glass. ... just my two cents.
yan0
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