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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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vaccum bag theory
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On 6/12/2005 pg
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
FWIW.. here is a link that explains some theory behind the vacuum bagging process
Click here for link
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layin'o the hands
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On 6/11/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
when adding layers a dry piece of material can be put in place and wetted out after the fact. as long as the subsequent layers are placed before the previous layer's epoxy has cured for too long the bond should be good w/o concern for the haze...
...if you wait too long you better bring it down with fine sanding to get rid of the haze or you risk a poor bond between layers.
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hand layering
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On 6/10/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
the surface tension of wet glass allows it to suck onto the core, i've seen books on making surfboards and the glass is cut oversized and the weight of the overhang(wetted) tensions the surface glass, you trim and sand the extra glass away after the resin dries. According to the book i saw.
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Hand layed vs. Vacuum Baggins
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On 6/10/2005
WT
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
Mr. Harms,
I don't know the answer to your question. But, obviously laying glass by hand around a foam core works. I can't think of a quality surfboard that's made by wrapping and bagging. Of course, I'm out of the loop when it comes to surf boards and maybe there are some out there coming out of a bag, but I don't know of any.
Anyway, getting glass to lay up with resin is an applied art that takes skill and practice. Ask Rick Howell. He still does it the fun way.
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Hand job?
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On 6/10/2005
JBH
wrote in from
United States
(165.134.nnn.nnn)
At the risk of sounding, really, really ignorant, how does the hand-laid process WT mentions differ from vacuum bagging? I understand how vac. bagging, if done properly, works, but in the hand-laid method, how do you ensure that the layers bond properly?
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Flex Appeal
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On 6/9/2005
WT
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
PD,
You might be more familiar with this than I am, but a long, long time ago, Bobby Turner told me this trick and it still works: Bend several boards over your knee. After a little of this, you'll begin to "feel" the differences in flex. Bobby swore to me he could feel the differences in medium flex boards for any weight within five pounds of the rider.
I don't fully understand the process Bobby used to build his boards, but I got the feeling he knee-pulled the boards at various stages of construction. This way he always got the right flex no matter what differences there might be in materials. I guess from what he said five layers of glass this week might be different than five next week. Same goes for the foam: he had to check all along the process or he'd go too far and end up with a custom-ordered board that was too stiff.
So, my conclusion would be to find some foam cores you like, pull them over your knee to get the "feel" for them and lay up a board til it matches. Two things, though: I don't know that you can interrupt the process with a vacuum-bagged board like you can when it's hand-layed and Bobby blew out his knee in 1979 after all that pulling and had to get it scoped.
Hey, it's just a thought.
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bent outa shape...
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On 6/9/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
bending plywood is an unwieldy solution for shaping a skateboard deck. you will not be able to get anything but the simplest bends and the ones you may attain could degrade over time (concave is definitely out of the picture). another reason is that you would have to build a pretty sturdy jig that would be an exaggerated version of the curve you are trying to acheive. good thing is that depending on how you build it you might be able to use the jig for a glueup. you might as well try laminating veneer or 3 ply right from the start. better yet try this kit for a way to get you started. or try to figure out how to do something like that on your own...
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Bending Plywood
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On 6/9/2005
John Samuelson
wrote in from
United States
(67.113.nnn.nnn)
I'm sorry if this is a fairly newbie question, but I was wondering what would be the best setup for steaming plywood to shape a deck?
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it works
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On 6/6/2005
Jason
wrote in from
United States
(207.200.nnn.nnn)
hey if you got an old wakeboard handy those work pretty good. thats what i got right now and there extremely light and if youre into grinding the boardslide like crazy. the only downside is that the tail and nose are pretty easy to screw up and you have to add grip tape. But otherwise wakeboards are great I also heard that waterskis work but those are way too skinny for my foot.
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garbage
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On 6/6/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
listen to duane...
...then then continue to do whatever you were doin' (heheheh). i'm gonna half to try the garbage bags. 'cause what do i huff to loose.
seriously though duane is an old pro at this kinda thing i would gladly yield to his take on the matter. (then again he hasn't seen my stuff lately)
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foam and carbon
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On 6/6/2005 duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
for starters get some of the 5.7 oz twill (its the cheapest), and some of the around 10 oz harness satin. The harness satin is a bit stronger since there is less thread kinking. With these two things you can do anything you want. For a good starting point, if you put one layer of the 10 oz. harness sating on long-ways, and one layer of the 5.7 oz orineted 45 segrees off, on each side of a 3/8" core, you will have a good stiff flex in a 40" board for somewhat less than 200 lb. Best vendor, great prices and service no small order hassles (half the price of some robbers on the web):
http://johnrsweet.com/
3 lb. foam is too light go for something 6-10 lb., it will hold up better and won't crush so easy.
as for vacuum bagging, don't buy into all that expensive crap, some air hose, duct tape, and good quality garbage bags will do nicely, you might have to buy some peel ply if you want to go real light but that's about it
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70+
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On 6/5/2005
david
wrote in from
United States
(68.167.nnn.nnn)
matt, post your question in the speedboarding forum...people have gone over 70 mph standing up on a skateboard..not many i imagine
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speed chills...
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On 6/4/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
yo matt: the fastest i think i evar went on a skateboard must’ve been over 504 mph while cruising at around 6,000 ft. 'cause i was rolling down the center isle of a 747. does that count? what do i win?
hey pg:
1) if you go something like 15 to 20 oz you will likely have less layers to lay up to get the stiffness required for med to long decks and you could always conceal this in a lighter harness weave
2) i'm afraid your suspicions are correct for the most part. i usually try to err in the "too stiff" variety then go down (or up) from there depending on the results. it aint rocket science otherwise everyone would be doing it (heheheh).
3) i use the 18 lbs and stacked it as needed. i tried 3 lbs for some nonstructural areas but it allowed the carbon to distort, it delammed and i wound up ripping the contoured surface that was comprised of this and wound up with an almost pps like construction.
btw, i use wicks on occasion myself though there are other viable sources as well.
hope this helps...
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Speeeeddd....
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On 6/4/2005 Matt
wrote in from
United States
(67.174.nnn.nnn)
Hey does anyone know the fastest anyone has ever gone on a board? Or even just your personal best? I'm not wondering about that "Guinnes book world record" crap, I wanna know the real deal, from anyone who has done 70+ mph
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foam core construction
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On 6/4/2005
pg
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
I have been thinking about dropping into the deep end and trying my hand at making a foamcore board. I have a vacuum pump already I can use for vacuum bagging.
here are a few questions I have:
1. what weight of carbon fiber is best to use?
2. other then trail & error, what can I do to construct a board with the right amount of flex for my weight?
3. what should I look for in picking out the best high density foam?
3lb, 6lb...?
here is a link to a local supplier that I plan to use:
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=1381/index.html
TIA,
Paul
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ah,, air craft spruce
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On 6/3/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
the home builders bible,well at least the old testement. it's a bit pricey and if you can find stuff local or need billit aluminum in large amounts there are better specific sources. Wests epoxy works pretty dandy and a local boat store beat hazmat shipping through ups.POlyepoxy does have a nice exotic ring to it, and you may prefer their fumes, i went for the low liver toxins stuff. What else? i tuned my latest greatest today, mostly truck adjustments, cut a couple extra threads in the 7075 kingpins, checked their straightness in my lathe, and went to having both bushings as med hardcores in the back. Oh yeah, in a definite change of pace ,i dug through my parts bins and found one of those thin cell block wedges to dewedge,flatten the geometry ,of the back truck. If someone makes that kind of thing in urithane,let me know,someone should, perhaps green urithane would be nice.
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truck holes
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On 6/3/2005
sc
wrote in from
United States
(64.60.nnn.nnn)
dimensions to centerlines of holes:
width, new & old school: 1 5/8"
length, new school: 2.1"
length, old school: 2.5"
new and old school match up at the inner holes
(the side toward the middle of the board)
new school pulled the outer hole in 0.4" to get the nuts out of the way of tail & nose slides, at least that's how it was splained to me
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Epoxy
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On 6/3/2005
Geezer-X
wrote in from
United States
(68.239.nnn.nnn)
Get a copy of the catalog from the Aircraft Spruce and Speciality Co.
It's all the stuff the homebuilt aircraft guys need, and these days, a lot of homebuilts are all composite construction.
I've been using PolyEpoxy for composite deck layups. It's a 2 stage cure compound. I mix the 2 parts, wet lay up the deck on a big adjustable camber/concave slab of 1/2" waxed polycarbonate, cover that with my bleeder ply, and tape my bag film over the whole deal. I pull it down to 20 inches vacuum, and leave it for 12 hours. This is the primary room temperature cure.
Once I've trimmed and drilled the deck, it goes into a 3' section of furnace duct with a space heater at one end and an adjustable vent in the other. I have a multimeter with a thermocouple to verify the temp in the box.
I heat soak the deck to 140 degrees F for 3 hrs. This is the secondary elevated temperature cure.
Let it cool, add grip, go, go, go.
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dims and dats
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On 6/3/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
pdf
dxf
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Truck Hole Dim's
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On 6/3/2005 Jeremy
wrote in from
United States
(67.137.nnn.nnn)
I got it.. did a bit more research..
Thanks guys
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Truck Hole Dim's
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On 6/3/2005
Jeremy
wrote in from
United States
(67.137.nnn.nnn)
Hi. i am trying to set up my CNC machine to make some decks... and i cant find the dimensions of "old school" or New school hole pattern dimensions? does anyone have them off the top of thier head? thanks!
Jeremy
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resinous abnormalities
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On 6/3/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
i really have to thank cnova for getting me up to speed on all sorts of techno know-how. if it wasn't for him i wouldn't have realized the dream of converting an existing truck into a copy of the original independent floating axle concept. then we went on to composite decks exploring the impossibilities as i twisted his idea of normality. today all his college engineering courses and years of f1 racing experience has been rendered to a wimpering blob and chained to a corner of the basement. he used to be so methodical and still has moments of hesitation but he now can handle experimental applications on the fly because by the time all of the smoke clears...
...it just means it's time to light up another.
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Takin' the show on the road
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On 6/3/2005
DAve G
wrote in from
United States
(207.69.nnn.nnn)
Hell PD, them boyz even take the shop on the road! I witnessed, said subject(s)finishing off a carbon fibre job in the bath-tub of a hotel room in a suburb of our Nation's Capital!I'm tellin' ya' ..there's no stopping the "Delamenated Duo"
Comming soon to a city near you!
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who needs drugs ?
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On 6/3/2005 duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
we give all new meaning to "scraping resin"
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shop / apartment
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On 6/3/2005
cnova
wrote in from
United States
(69.3.nnn.nnn)
OK, the apartment wasn't in downtown Chicago, but I've made (machined and brazed) numerous offset trucks and made a mold and several carbon fiber decks all while living in a 750ft² 1 bedroom apartment in one of the more well to do North Shore suburbs. Even had a ventilation system set up, a big fan in the bathroom window kept the mess in the "shop".
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