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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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slow kicking resin
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On 10/13/2005 Duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
I have an old stained electric blanket (the kind with wires that give you cancer) for kicking off slow resin cures. It works really well as it gives maybe 100-110F underneath without worries about overheating
My basement shop gets cold and I find it hard to get resin to set at all below 60, so the blanket gets used, cheaper and safer than a space heater (resin fumes + hot nichrome wires = bad)
truthfully I find it easier to work in winter, summer gives kicks that are too fast, 30 min. pot time, unintentionally
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that emptiness within
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On 10/12/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
nice going on that hollow deck svarteld, not sure if you realize it but decks of that stature are seem to be gaining some popularity with the home builders here in the usa. i think they're called mini's.
i use a very different technique for building so i really don't have any idea on the ins and outs of the materials involved with your strategy for attaining the hollow core structure. i suppose that as long as the stringers keep the top and bottom surfaces separated it should do the trick. you may want to consider struts going across the inside of the deck to maintain the structure when minimizing on materials.
one major difference is your deck is two dimensional and flat where as my deck is 3d which provides to the structure but inherent to the design is that my core has to be flexible until the whole assembly cures. in fact all the separate parts before being joined together are wouldn't support .5 kg but when i'm done it is on the stiff side for 68 kg. it may be the simplicity of the design that makes it so difficult to comprehend and execute. the intended outcome provides another real interesting feature: the center of the skins are thicker than it is at the perimeter but not until the core is in place like two leaf springs joined at the ends. i don't have it in front of me right now but i think it is 320 cm at its thickest in the center of the deck and .50 cm all along the perimeter. it is also an s-cambre with a spooned nose going into a concave flowing into "w" concave mid section blended to a convex on through a tri tail (it comes up into a "v"). too bad that all of this is pretty difficult to capture in photographs.
it took several attempts to achieve my final goal. after finalizing the shaphe i first tried one in 100% bamboo but it crushed instantly, second one was 99% carbon and it was waaaay too stiff, the third one was a combination of bamboo and fiberglass and i knew it was just a matter of improving my technique (cut it up to prove it). the fourth one was a success and still rides like a dream. i then attempted another carbon one and it just didn't cut it. parts were too stiff while other sections too flimsy. that journey began in september 2004 and realized success by may 2005.
lately i've been struggling with fiber constructs. my latest is a combination mostly composed of hemp. someday i hope to combine this material in a construct of a hollow structure as well.
in the meantime, keep striving for perfection...
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the mix
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On 10/12/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
well the questionable epoxy mix was firming up quite a bit as of this night ,6 hrs in somewhat low temp, so keeping the fingers crossed, if it's rock hard and glassy tommorrow i'll be quite happy. Svarteld, to late, everything is glued at once.
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herbn's decks
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On 10/12/2005
svarteld
wrote in from
Sweden
(213.64.nnn.nnn)
Would be so interresting to see those decks you're making, herbn, preferably without the lid on. If you don't already have a digital camera, go buy one asap, please! /P
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damn electronic scales
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On 10/12/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
besides the usual interuptions ,during a big mix of glue,today when i wetted my balsa/carbon/birch skin board,on the third mix of glue(needed just a bit more)the scale suddenly starts to react slowly to the increasing weight of resin(i measure hardener first) now accuracy is gone,i'm adding more hardener by color"is the shade of blue right?)aaarrrgggghhhh. I'm just gonna let it sit for a week,and keep checking the mixing pot. I shouldn't have tried to do all the gluing in epoxy all at once. I should have edge glued the the 30 some odd pieces of balsa with tite bond and masking tape,should have should have, well maybe i'll get lucky,long odds though.
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Drop Through
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On 10/12/2005 Vincent
wrote in from
United States
(165.123.nnn.nnn)
Hey I was wondering if any of you guys could give me some pointers in turning my deck into a drop through as in, cutting out the wood. Like what machines should I be using and some pointers on doing it. Thanks!
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Hollow core
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On 10/12/2005
svarteld
wrote in from
Sweden
(213.64.nnn.nnn)
Hey folks,
I'm looking for some advice for hollow cores.
I've just made my first try, it's a simple staraight drop-through thing with some concave. The hollow core is made of pretty soft wood, height 15 mm, each spruce being 7 mm thick, spaced out with about 4 cm between them. The skins are one 3-ply bich of 3 mm with triaxial glass on each side, epoxy under pressure. The deck is pretty small, max stance 55 cm, and weighs 1250 g. Total thickness is about 22 mm. It turned out both completely stiff in all directions. The truck area got solid wood around them. Looks like this:
I'm thinking of using standing grain birch for the next core, each spruce about 15 mm high, 4 mm thick, spaced closer, and supporting each other by running them both along and across, making a 8 mm slots in both where they cross so they can support each ofter, sliding them together. Got it?
Good idea or not? Might 4 mm be too thin? Any other advices?
Herbn, Duane, Shapeshifter - have you made something similar?
Cheers, Peter
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so imperfect yet perfect
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On 10/11/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
my latest completed board,is a beamer based on a sheet of 3/8 multiply, a couple of grooves for stingers that trap a layer of 7 oz carbon under a layer of thinner stingers that fill in between the beams,sort of. There are little gaps, i don't know why,they seemed to fill in nicely before the glue,yet add glue and perhaps they got rearranged,then they leave some gaps.Well on the glassing,bottom of the beams only, i tried successfully for the most part, to fil in the gaps.The glass picked up some wrinkles and bubbles,oh well fix that in the next layer of epoxy. Get the picture?not real heavy but more glue than needed, the beam chipped a bit while routing(next time i mix epoxy)yet through all these problems, this board rides SO NICE,40 x10 schmitt saw blade inspired shape,surprizingly taut snappy flex,i actually redrilled to lengthen the wb just a bit,this got just the right flex and wheel clearence. I'm using one of my older sets of trucks,6.5 between a set of original flashbacks(translucent),this set of HERBN trucks has a cylindrical delrin pivot bushing, shaped sort of like a t nut.
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new board
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On 10/10/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
all the balsa is cut, i ended up with a central ash stinger,with two rows of balsa squares on either side, and rials of ash that will cover only the outer most edges on the sides of the board. One thing that i,ve found is that the carbon on my most recsent complete board is that the carbon between the layers of wood comes out nice and flat,no wrinkles. So my outer skins of 3/32 5ply birch might serve a very cool purpose, they may make the carbon come out better. 5 ply ,3/32! wow you can barely see the plys ,the strength seems very even in all directions, i guess they make this stuff for skins on airplanes, it reminds me of the folded steel in a samuri sword.
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solvents
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On 10/9/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
what is a good solvent for epoxy,i'm using the epoxy from aircraft spruce that does't have the liver toxins/alphapoxy(?) acetone? i guess i'd like to stay away from that toluene stuff eh? Oh yeah re press question, try a search.
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simple presses
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On 10/9/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
I described in detail ,a long time ago, how a press for simple contours can be made,using a construction similar to a small skateboard ramp,i figured skaters could figure that out,hell being a skater is why i figured it out. I made a camber press.
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home made form
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On 10/8/2005
mark
wrote in from
United States
(69.251.nnn.nnn)
does anyone have any ideas/links on how to make a homemade press/form for shaping skateboard decks/really ghetto plywood snowboard decks?
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resin for the "hard" spots
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On 10/7/2005 duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
I've had good luck in the past with thinning down some resin and letting it soak into the balsa if you need it to be a little harder
somehow I doubt you'll need to do that or put it hard blocks, balsa itself is pretty squish proof, and with ply skins it'll be very tough
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new project
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On 10/7/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
i have some 3/32 five ply birch ,that i was gonna use for a hollow board project(i lost interest/complications),now i'm gonna use it for outer skins on a really light balsa /carbon,light as air(hopefully) mid sized carver. I figure around 40 inches. I'd like to go pure light,no beams in the middle,just a few pieces of hardwood in strategic impact points. I think i might use this old v lam clamping frame i have,adjustment screws on the side for side pressure then you just lay the whole thing in the press for pressing the carbon and skins.
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smooth holes
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On 10/6/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
i had a question,about the way i couldn't seem to get a clean hole in birch ply, when a drill would break through it would chip up the wood around the hole. I answered this question my self, i found if i raise the drill press speed, by swapping belt position, the chipping effect minimizes or goes away entirely,the drill should really be buzzing it should lift and disperse the material that is being removed .
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the kitchen sink!
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On 9/28/2005
Munchh
wrote in from
European Union
(86.132.nnn.nnn)
I cant wait to see what comes out the other end, i hope it scares the hell out of everyone.....in a good way of coarse.
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old mold
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On 9/28/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
that one is set up to do either. it would take a core if used as pictured but an insert would allow it to make coreless wheels.
just too busy experimenting with material combinations for making fiber core decks right now to do much of anyting else i'm afraid. i'm using and interesting array of tools on the builds these days. let's see... pots and pans, blenders, sinks, the bathtub... oh yes, and a rather large mortar and pestle.
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wheels
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On 9/28/2005
Munchh
wrote in from
European Union
(86.132.nnn.nnn)
Wow man, that looks abit special, would that make coreless wheels or are you one step ahead?
I've set up a deck and am going to make some gloves.
Your well out there dood!!!!
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ho maid wheels
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On 9/27/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
haven't tried flashbacks for sliding but 92a should do you fine. to be honest i haven't been sliding much lately but memories of stand up 360 slides from the past haunt me from time to time, maybe i should get back into it. here's what i've use for making some wheels in the past...
hey, come to think of it i do ride 92a la costas and they slide conrtolably around corners.
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homemade sliding wheels?
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On 9/25/2005
Munchh
wrote in from
European Union
(86.137.nnn.nnn)
Hey Shifter, do you ride slide?
just routed down some 70's flashbacks 92a, so they are now double conicle side core, but still have a large contact patch, do i need a harder duro, i'm just starting out?
Munchh.
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timber comparison
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On 9/24/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
if information is what you're looking for... here's a nice collection of australian, tropical and common europeans and american commercial timbers.
pretty nice selection from all around the world. if you check out the scope of the project that it's intended for you'll realize the there are larger forces at work here.
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wood and stuff
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On 9/24/2005 Lars
wrote in from
United States
(4.18.nnn.nnn)
Great conversation with loads of info, thanks guys!
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veneers!!!!!!!!!!!!
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On 9/21/2005
Munchh
wrote in from
European Union
(86.132.nnn.nnn)
So you can see the mark up once it gets over here, the comany ihat i spoke to are charging over £5 a sq foot,thats about $9 U.S.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Its no surprise theres not much homegrown anything in England anymore??
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Price of veneers and customs woes
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On 9/21/2005
Ted
wrote in from
Canada
(69.197.nnn.nnn)
I think that import duties suck! When I buy a lot of product from the US. For most of it I pay a duty charge well before they will delivered it to me. Customers I have in the UK also complain when a duty is placed on a product they buy from Canada or the US. Sometimes they get charged and sometimes not.
99.9999% of the kits we sell to the US are sent no problem, duty free. I sold a TAP kit to a woodworker in the States last week and they charged him duty....What’s with that... #**#*!!! hell. ah.....The trials of being in business.
On another topic, because I wanted to know whether our costs are a reasonable price to charge for uncut maple veneer I did a little searching for prices. I looked at 2 companies that I had already had known about that sell 1/16 maple veneer online. One company sells veneer for $2.16 per sq foot. They advertise it as 3 sheets (30 Sq Ft.) for around 65 to 70 bucks. Another company sells the same 1/16 maple veneer for $2.50 per sq foot. I have bought woods from the second company in the past and know they only sell quality material. I compared our prices and found that the veneer we sell is almost 1/3rd the cost, 80 cents a square foot.
We buy veneers locally, an advantage of living in Canada where we have lots of Canadian Hard Maple trees. Because of this, along with the fact that we do not have to pay import duties, heat a large warehouse and stock hundred of exotic species from around the world. We can sell maple for skateboards a lot cheaper than companies like above that sell furniture grade lumber and veneers to woodworkers.
A lot of veneer companies can set you up with a piece of amazing looking Bubinga veneer for the bottom of your deck but you probably won't get a much of a deal on the maple veneer for building a deck.
Ted
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veneers!!!!!!!!!!!!
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On 9/19/2005
Munchh
wrote in from
European Union
(86.132.nnn.nnn)
Well, now i understand why there are few U.K. skate manufacturers, i've just had a quote for 30 sheets of 1.5mm grade A birch, that would make around 50 street decks (just as a comparison) for £455, when i can import 350 finnished decks with my own logo for the same price..................
What the hell is going on over here, it just aint on....
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