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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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baseplates
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On 11/22/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
started my new trucks/baseplates, will use smaller bolts in a 1.5 x 1.5 pattern, the bases will be in a groove in a board .I made the mods to my drill jig i need that only for the patterns drilling the board can be done by putting the bases in the groove,they gotta have the right wheelbase spacing and nose and tail length,a correct nose will give a correct tail.The bases have 26 mounting holes sized for m4 or american 8-32 hardware. I'd like to make the bases flipable for 43-47 degree turning angles,something like that.
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Munchh, loki440, svarteld
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On 11/22/2005 tom t
wrote in from
Canada
(209.183.nnn.nnn)
You boys all have a real knack for making nice boards. Great stuff!
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low carver
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On 11/22/2005
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.140.nnn.nnn)
Tom t,
I've just made my second one for my nephew, my 1st one is great, but as i made it as a speed board its abit stiff, Click here for link so this new one will be great i hope, being low gives you loads more confidence. My other decks seem to be getting smaller and smaller!
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NUMBER OF PLY'S
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On 11/21/2005
GEOFF JOHNSTON
wrote in from
Canada
(204.225.nnn.nnn)
i was wondering if there is a website that would show or even compare the strenghts and weakness of boards with different numbers of ply's
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short longboards
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On 11/21/2005 tom t
wrote in from
Canada
(209.183.nnn.nnn)
Anyone ever try mounting RII 180s on the tail and nose of a popsicle deck to make a low carver? How was it? Any problems?
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reply
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On 11/21/2005 Loki440
wrote in from
Canada
(199.126.nnn.nnn)
a couple of the boards were made with 1/16" maple, but due to price and availability, i have moved to 1/8" baltic birch, i cant do radical curves with it but i can always get some maple if i want to go crazy, and i typically been using figured makore and anigre venner for the bottom, but also have used eucalyptus, karelian birch, Paua shell, and various other paints and metal flake, im also venturing into the dyeing and oe use of translucent paints over the veneer( as that last board shows with the black dyed figured angire.
As for the clear basically almost every board has a different type of clear as im looking for the best for my application, but i have used the acrylic poly urethane(didnt like the solids content, so in other terms board per can)and have done normal poly, outdoor poly (spar, last couple of boards have been with that), and automotive urethane(way expensive but i use less and my clearcoating/wetsanding is cut but about 8 times) so im in the hunt for some post catalized poly urethane at a reasonable price(two part clear coat that dries very very quickly once mixed and need to be sprayed)
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nice work
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On 11/20/2005
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.137.nnn.nnn)
Loki, i need to step it up, looking good man, check me out if you get a minute?
Click here for link
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Loki's boards
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On 11/20/2005 yan0
wrote in from
United States
(140.233.nnn.nnn)
wish I could say my boards looked like that after 6 months....
Looks like you are using hardrock maple ply with maple/cherry/ebony etc etc veneer on the bottom.. I might just need to order myself up some. Just curiously what are you coating the bottom with? Spar varnish? Some kind of oil and then.....
yan0
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sorry
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On 11/20/2005 Loki440
wrote in from
Canada
(199.126.nnn.nnn)
sorry for the excess junk use to other message board
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HELP:looking for starter CAD file
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On 11/18/2005 Rob
wrote in from
United States
(164.156.nnn.nnn)
I am looking for a CAD file of a long board as start... can anybody help me?
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longer birch boards
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On 11/14/2005 duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
once you get up over 40" where the 5/8 nominal stuff becomes too flexy, it makes a lot of sense to start looking at glassing, or using ribs / beams / spars whatever you want to call them. A 5/8" board with a 4" wide, 5/8" beam on the bottom running all the way down will make a real nice 60" board without being terribly heavy. For that type of board I like to run 70mm wheels with no cut-outs, surf style, so the beam acts as built-in risers to allow loose turny trucks without rubbing out. However such a board will snap right in half if your girlfriend's dad runs over it with his car
these methods were developed by poor children in the late 70's who only had one thickness of wood. I agree with herbn's length / thickness info 100%, that info should be in a compendium / FAQ somewhere it is asked all the time.
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My alternate hole pattern
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On 11/13/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
I have a couple pieces of billet stock, a bar of 2.0 x 1.0. The long one is 6 feet long, i think i bought it to make bike stems, and other stuff. It's not big enough to make baseplates with a 1.625 width hole pattern but 1.5 would fit nicely, but id have to make a drill jig for making boards to fit my new hole pattern and then a shaping jig ,to hold patterns and rough cut boards for final trimming. My idea for bases is really interesting though,imagine a baseplate, there's the middle part where the pivot is and the kingpin, then there are the mounting areas,on the sides. I'd like to have lots of positions to choose from, for flexes and wheel cleareces. Holes every .250, that's close ,but, make the sides of the base thick enough so strength is not an issue, so my hole pattern could be 1.5 x 1.5(snowboardy isn't it) perhaps a little unstable but i could have a channel that snuggly fits the baseplates, i already route pockets in all my boards so my really low trucks ride even lower, if i make them accurate all the hardware has to do is hold the trucks against the board.I would honey comb the mounting areas of the bases, just so all that thickness (i figure 5/16-3/8)doesn't add all that much weight. My trucks weighed in at under 300 grams, with two bearings as pivots,micro bearings.
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toft snowskate
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On 11/13/2005 ben
wrote in from
United States
(68.119.nnn.nnn)
I have one, We call them the yellow boards. I have a later model made by skiboard. They called it the incredible flying banana. It came with a plastic blue riding surface and nylon straps, neither of wich worked worth a carp, or even what a carp eats. I love it for backyard powder. All my friends sold theirs when the value skyrocketed. I have mine set up with a 33 X 9 Powell board with golf spikes epoxied in for traction and a rubber strap. It is the shiznit for backhill powder. Light, pops off you feet when you slam. I may cut the sims switchblade into a swallow tails for backhill use, I just cant imagine it working better than a yellowboard unless the hills and the powder gets real big, then I won't want to hike up them in it. That swllow tail does look sweet though. Thanks for all your help.
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way ahead of its time
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On 11/12/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
yeah it floats and carves real nice in the fluffy stuff but it's really hating it on hardpack and ice... quite a difference from the old sims toft snowskate of back in the day or thos weak snowblades that took the place of the wheels. i broke a friend's board the very first burton that was nothing but a more flexible snurfer. dimitrije milovich is a hero of mine, haven't spoken to him in a while. i remember riding the decks he made way back then fibreglass/wood/ptex. i'm happy to see that the swallowtail is back in production again albeit with standard binding mounts.
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shifters board
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On 11/12/2005
svarteld
wrote in from
Sweden
(213.64.nnn.nnn)
Shifter,
Wow, you must have been one of the very first. Nice.
I got one week of ridiculous amounts of powder last season in France, Val Thorens. It was so good I bought that powder board after the first day of not feeling anything but plush softness everywhere, even in the pistes... Heaven. Have never ridden a swallow though, what's it like?
/P
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that's my board...
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On 11/12/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
hey svarteld, i've been riding winterstick swallowtails since way back around 1977 before that we used to make our own. my current one has metal edges which i think came out in 1985. both came with the killer tensigral binding but only the earlier one had the flex-metal/polymer skeg.
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Bens board
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On 11/12/2005
svarteld
wrote in from
Sweden
(213.64.nnn.nnn)
Ben,
Is it a really, really big snowboard? If so, ever thought of turning it into a powder gun? I ride a Burton Fish (the one with a big nose, small tail, big setback), perfect in pow, if you can resist landing jumps switch. I've been playing with the thought of getting a huge oridinary snowboard, and just reshaping the tail, making it shorter and (automatically) narrower, so you can throw around the rear quickly in tight backcountry, like in the trees. You automatically get the setback, if you cut the rear shorter. You could even cut it like a classic swallow tail, classic! You'll loose the rear nose though. Will be important to seal up the cut to not letting moisture entering the core.
Swallowtail powder gun:
Just a thought /Peter
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snow to skate conversion
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On 11/12/2005 ben
wrote in from
United States
(68.119.nnn.nnn)
thanks shapeshifter. I tried and it looked like a mixed bag with some havig success and others saying it was too flexy. I am still perplexed. I go 200lbs so flexy won't get it. I also noticed one of the posters said it needed to be real wide. I will have to do more study. Anyone have a picture of one they can post?
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search...
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On 11/11/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
...using the key word: snowboard
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snowboard conversion
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On 11/11/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
ben: do a search of the entire archive on this forum and you will find a few references that might be of help to you. below is something i pulled from the search i did... you'll find more where this came from.
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On 8/19/2004 PSR wrote in from 68.69.xxx.xxx:
Bugs,you have three choices with narrow,race-type snowboards being used to beget new carveable Sk8Boards... 1st] IF you have access to a Bandsaw that will cut at 45*,then just cut a little,just enough to scribe the edges off the board.That's a tilt of 45*,and going inboard about 3/16".The hard part here is in the guiding of the feed thru the saw.I suggest you mark 'guide posts' along the sidewall or base,and be ready to have communication issues with whomever is helping you guide these thru.Do a test cut run with scrap ply first,see where you might have accuracy problems...Breathe deep,slow,and then run a Deck thru. 2nd] You can cut at 90*,but then you need to go past the entire edge/sidewall.That's a loss of 8mm a side minimum(edges have a set of 'teeth' that protrude inwards towards the core-those teeth have to be shaved past while cutting,or your board's base area wll later become a buzz-saw for ankles)in width,and with an already small deck area,you don't really want a 17cm Sk8board,do ya? It's possible,and the board will flex o.k. still,you'll just have to deal with being on a skinnier "Skinny". 3rd] Whew,now there's the 'leave the edges' possibility.It'll work,too,BUT,you MUST ROUND the edges,not just flat-file them to a 45* angle.Here,a curved-faced grinder bit from Dremel is your best bet.Buy three,or four,as a board has a bit of length to it.Another option is to 'flat-file' at 45*,then smooth the edges further with smooth grit emery. I'd add a strip of Electrician's Tape or something similar put some padding onto what metal is left(I value my Achilles...) 4th] Look for BOARDERCROSS boards!! They're Stiff,and Wide,plus they're often CHEAP at Play-it-Again stores. Oh,and Chief,I've done something like 15 'snowboard conversions' so far.I also have been snowboarding since,um,like '78. Snurfin before that...
********************************* ****************
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thickness : length
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On 11/10/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
.625 is fairly soft for a 48 inch ok for 44 ,firm for 40. .500 move things shorter, i would say 36 is fairly soft already with a .500, this is for a 160 lb rider and soft and firm are relative terms
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snowboard longboard conversion
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On 11/10/2005 Ben
wrote in from
United States
(68.119.nnn.nnn)
I have a p-tex bottom wooden core plastic top snowboard form the 1980's. It still could be a crude backhill buster but I am thinking of cutting a longboard from it. Has anyone tried this with any success? Did you cut off the metal edges? Is it too flexy? How long did you make it? Any help would be appreciated. Without any direction, I will not ruin the board. With direction, I'll gladly ruin it.
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Longboard Ply's Baltic Birch
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On 11/10/2005 Scott
wrote in from
United States
(64.174.nnn.nnn)
I've been experimenting with longboard construction and recently built out of two sheets of baltic birch 1/4 inch laminated together to make a concave board. However the board had wayyyy too much flex so I added a couple layers of fiberglass and it turned out great. However, are there any other sugestions on what type of wood to use to create a concaved board with more ridgity to it?
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d beams
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On 11/7/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
re svarteld, they were made for a short while in the seventies , they were a truck with no moving parts, they were sort of an arc of black plastic, that started as a baseplate and looped around off the deck and flowed into a hanger. It flexed at a fairly flat angle(as far as i can remember) they added a support post for heavier riders(over 100 lbs!) Now to make d beams out of a more modern material and make it part of the deck,you would have to bend(mold) the nose and tail into a downward loop,but a sudden little rocker near the ends would do the same thing,imagine mounting an axle midway up the curved tip of a ski(curved up at both ends,modern bi directional.Can anyone post up a pic of a d beam?
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