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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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seismics on the ends
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On 12/13/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
i think to get a somewhat normal steering responce it might be considered to use the flat turning geometry 30 degree seismics. Notching the ends would make things very flexy indeed,both torsionally(twist) and lengthwise just from the maximum wheelbase . Perhaps a semi long board popsicle stick would be best for this type of board,a 34 - 36inch double kick,don't mount the trucks at the very ends.
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Dropped through Seismics
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On 12/13/2005
svarteld
wrote in from
Sweden
(83.250.nnn.nnn)
Hey Paul,
I have a dropped-through kick-flip deck with Seismics 180 mm, sitting at the very ends of the kicks, with the dropped-thru shape like a cut into the ends of the deck, instead of a hole - easier to do, gets them longer out, and works fine. This deck is a little too flexy for this, but it's all fun.
You have to be a little more precise when dropping Seismics, cause you can't leave as much meat as with Randals. These trucks gets even more direct when dropping, so the response is amusing :-) Try it. My commuter board (Rolls Rolls) also have a very low mounted Seismic in front, making it really direct and sharp steering. Love it - I'll build at least one foam deck this winter shaped around a really low Seismic front.
Good luck /P
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Don't get a blog!
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On 12/12/2005
Roboto PDX
wrote in from
United States
(67.166.nnn.nnn)
Don't get a blog Herbn! I always enjoy reading your posts and I would not likely get around to visiting yet another website on my daily web tour. So Please keep posting!
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seismic drop thru
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On 12/11/2005
Paul Steuri
wrote in from
United States
(207.200.nnn.nnn)
Has anyone ever tried or even thought about making a drop thru deck with seimic trucks?
I think I might give it a try!
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get a blog
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On 12/11/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
just about to enter another post and i thought that since i seem to use this page almost like a diary sort of like posting to help design my projects i should just get a blog,that's sort of like a diary ain't it? anyway,i'm getting a bit concerned about the 7075 kingpin,sure the truck design takes impact stresses off it but how much stress is there from just bushing tension will it fatigue? how long will it take,and it will of course do the murphy snap, worse possible time,maybe...feels like i have a long winter to figure it out.
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axle nuts
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On 12/11/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
all right,i have some top notch ti for my axles,it's 3/8 od i have access to a real solid lathe for a smooth cut down to 8mm for fitting bearings. I'm gonna drill most of the inside part of the axle hollow,except the high stress area where it leaves the hanger an area about an inch long really should be solid. I know i can drill ti pretty easy, just flood the area with cutting oil and use a tnal coated cobalt drill (not all that expensive really) and i can get taps in that coating to, so i'm liening towards internal threads in the axle instead of axle nuts,cause dies burn out super quick on ti and that's the way i cut outside thread , thread cutting on a lathe is something i really don't like and metric thread,if i'm gonna use axle nuts i really prefer the big 8mmx1.25 metric axle nuts,metric thread cut on an american lathe,i gotta see what the specifics are on the lathe i can use. I can do internal threaded axles that work,i just use longer bolts than seismic used to, and i cut just enough threads,so the bolt kind of wedges into the end of the threads, my internal threads work really well. I like axle nuts though,for some reason that little bit of adjustability always comes in handy, internal bolts are lighter though.
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my homemade trucks
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On 12/9/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
are progressing nicely,made the support bracket yesterday,man what a pain in the az ,i flipped the atachment bolt around so the head is inside the base in the kingpin hole(this allows for more threads of attachment)my design has a floating kingpin that is clamped in the baseplate,so the head of the bolt had to be countersunk to let the kingpin float,turned out the countersink needed to be a lot deeper than i thought, i tried a few other things, it was a bit of a problem but it's done and things look real good.
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search
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On 12/8/2005
Adam
wrote in from
United States
(64.81.nnn.nnn)
You can also use Google to search Ncdsa.com's pages now that we have searchable URLs. Just add this
site:ncdsa.com
in Google's search box along with the term(s) you're searching for. It has the effect of narrowing Google's scope to just our domain.
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search: here, google
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On 12/8/2005 yan0
wrote in from
United States
(140.233.nnn.nnn)
NCL, Use the search function on this page to search for specifics. For a general overview, try google, its dang powerful. Also try www.toothless.be.tf, www.hugh3308.com, www.geocities.com/runyan0/pages/projects.... and myriad others out there dedicated to showing people how to build boards.
luck
yan0
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board building
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On 12/8/2005
NCL
wrote in from
United States
(12.72.nnn.nnn)
hey im just beginning my search to build up my first authentic longboard. I have a short flexy sector 9 right now, but i need to feed my hunger for downhill speed. I'm thinking something around 5'' or so but any recommendations for: type of wood, shape, building techniques, trucks, wheels, and bearings that would be suitible for this type of application would be much appreciated.
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popsicle deck surf stik
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On 12/8/2005
peters
wrote in from
United States
(64.236.nnn.nnn)
svart, herbn, here's a link to the tail-drilled popsicle setup that works perfectly for me. have converted a couple decks this way, love shreddin' up sets of the soft cambrias ;-)
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Making Deck Grip
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On 12/8/2005 scottbomb
wrote in from
United States
(64.174.nnn.nnn)
Hey All-
I've noticed some boards use a glue like substance with sprinkles of fine sand shaked on top in place of grip tape. Can anyone recommend the type of glue and/or process used in doing this method??? Thanks
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Straight holes
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On 12/7/2005
svarteld
wrote in from
Sweden
(83.250.nnn.nnn)
The previous post seems like a good way.
When I drill holes on decks with strong curves - landy-evo-type, my no-rear-steer, etc - I usually use a long piece of paper, as wide as the truck holes, and as long as the deck. I tape together sheets with the guide of a one metre steel ruler, so it's straight. I then tape it to the deck. The centre of the deck should not be warped for this to work. But, it works with very small curvatures. I've just bought a laser + prism, so I figure I'll use this instead from now on.
I've noticed it helps using a scalpel when marking the holes (cross), and using a wood drill with a needle-like tip, to keep it in the cross/hole, not slipping around.
herbn, would be nice to look at those trucks - email me /P
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popsicle conv drill holes
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On 12/6/2005 peters
wrote in from
United States
(24.18.nnn.nnn)
herbn - I've tied string to bolts in the original holes and pull them taut to the end of the flippy board for the vertical lines, then hold down a riser to the deck and mark the 4 drill holes dead-center -jp
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popcicle conversions
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On 12/6/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
when someone redrills a short board withtruck holes on the kicks,how do you line the holes up ? i don't really have any plans to do this ,but i know (sort of) how i'd do it and it's beyond what most people are capable of and more trouble than it's worth. I guess bending a straight edge might work,aaaarghhh, not for me.
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trucks/homemade parts
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On 12/6/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
i gotta get click'n,pics that is i'd e mail them to people who leave addresses;svarteld, duane ect ect. I just measured the degrees on my newest/ultimate 40 degrees,pretty much dead on. I'm making these with a bracket, sort of like a gullwing bracket, but on the lapper side of a randal geometry the bracket will have a delrin pivot bushing just like the one in the baseplate, perhaps a bit smaller. I'm thinking of having a pressed on bushing on the hanger too,so the slide would be delrin on delrin. My trucks are like a fully self(and rider) supporting hinge that could be run without kingpin or bushings.
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shape more than size
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On 12/6/2005 duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
I do like the way the Stimulators cradle the standard hangers to keep them from shifting. They fit magnificently into the recess on compII hangers. I do not like a bearing on the hanger pivot, too much stress applied to the kingpin and lord knows I don't need more stress applied than what my current bulk applies. I simply never use a hard bushing, I have dozens sitting unused, I should throw them by the handful to poor street skaters like necklaces at Mardi Gras.
A little taller and a little wider seems to be real good, over 1.5" is way too big and would have to be real soft, the leverage equation changes quickly. I would agree that resilience should be bad but the medium stims on the bottom, with a red fat barrel doh-doh top works awful good even on 205mm hangers, its fairly loose and stable. Resilience seems to help self-centering, rather than staying dead and compressed and having to be turned straight again. I've never noticed a spring-wobble effect a-la-seismic
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big bushings,
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On 12/5/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
yeah, or nay. I used to be fairly sure big bushings were good and necessary,lately,i'm not so sure. I always(since getting totally into dh longboarding) thought that the original wide speed spring trucks were really really ahead of their time. They had a really big yellow inner bushing and a perpendicular bushing aliegnment,and split axles. I think for really really max speed dh large bushings are the way to go, but i'm talking way way faster than 98% of longboarders will ever go. Advanced dh trucks seem to be shallower turning angles ,low profiles, and stable/no slop pivot points. They don't need to be cranked down tight to go very fast and they allow quick turns at high speeds,so why increase bushings? I've heard the logic that bushing size hasn't changed and trucks and boards and wheels have all gotten much larger. The stable geometrys are a single aspect that refutes the need to enlarge bushings, they don't need to be tight. Also ,in a maximum speed scenario are resilient urithanes really what you want as the tensioning component in your steering system? If chaput makes bushings they'll be to fit the standard truck , if he makes his own trucks(production, not few ofs)he may go with big bushings just to be different but they won't be all that much of an improvement ,well for the way most people really use their trucks,but it won't make them worse.
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Well samebody make a group yahoo for the show made on mtv...
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herbn hole pattern
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On 12/4/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
is 1.5 wide by 2.25 long.small m4 or maybe 8-32 bolts,a channel in the board will fit the baseplates precisely and take stresses off the mounting hardware.
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off topic
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On 12/4/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
deck building club, sounds cool,ifyou said new jersey area i would be really psyched,especially the experimental /advanced nature of your direction. But for now i 'd just like to do a update on my new truck /deck project. The bases came out great, a slight miscalulation on the first one will make me helicoil the pinch bolt for my floating king pin. I veered off the square hole pattern because with continuous mounting plate areas the pinch bolt wouldn't clamp on the kingpin, the bases still have 4 wheel base positions . I've started the hangers(just cut and machine finnished the square billit block, i have gone through the thinking through process many times and i think i've finalized "the prints" I'm gonna make hollow over sized ti axles(the ends will still be 8mm) i'll use internal threads to hold the wheels on,i've done these successfully many times i have ways to make them very reliable and safe(not like seismic)and these new trucks are going for minimized weight. Some epoxy carbon rods may be involved inside the billit structure. I have access to a good solid lathe,for the ti,my old small lathe makes working with ti a bit rough. I am definitely going with a support bracket that will take the most of the stresses off the kingpin, i'll go with an aluminum grind king style kingpin.The truck will be really low i'm hoping to drag the board on turns(at first) and work to eliminate the drag or use it for braking, since that much of a turn will probabely result in a slide at any speed above late night supermarket cruising.
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Experimental Deck Building Club
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On 12/4/2005
Ted Hunter
wrote in from
Canada
(69.197.nnn.nnn)
Ok here goes. I have decided there is enough interest in the Toronto area to form a deckbuilding club (don't really like the word club). I had first thought of offering clinics where people would pay for a weekend session but decided it was too much of a hassle and not the direction I wanted to go with this.
Here is the idea. Every 3 weeks have a 1 day drop in session. This may be at OCAD where I teach...or I have a great work area in our basement that may be ok.
We would, like here on Silverfish share our ideas with one another. The main focus of the group would be experimental deckbuilding. As we all have specialized talents we may even build boards that are group built. If we did something like this, we could afford to use industrial processes that are normally out of reach for individuals. I would love to do some cast parts for longboard decks where the trucks and decks become more a single unit than separate or experiment with laser cutters or.....well the list is long.
Anyone interested in doing this in the area let me know.
Ted
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15 ply
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On 12/2/2005
jaybyrd
wrote in from
Mexico
(207.17.nnn.nnn)
I just finnished the first of six 60" 15 ply Baltic Birtch Tankers. I left it at a 46" wheelbase,6" nose and 8" tail (strictly for aesthetics). It has some graceful wheel cutouts to allow the RII 180's plenty of turning room for those sweet slow turns. I plan on taking it on it's virgin run tommorrow in the hill country of Texas (Austin area). As far as flex, I weigh in at 220lbs and it seams to be fine (did'nt hit the ground).
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resin's all right
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On 12/2/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
go with epoxy,i've got some solid finnishes with it, maybe the epoxy should be thinned a bit, i get some ripples sometimes,i'm not obsessed on perfect glossy guitarlike finnishes. Duanes' 4 inch beam sounds ok, simple but a bit bulky,then again what is the essence of a 6 foot longboard? If you can buy a 6 foot by one foot ,13 ply piece of baltic multiply, and if you make the board just hair under 10 inches, you have two inches of beam material, split it into two and inlay them on either side of the trucks. I flip them on their side and use them as vertical,if you make the grooves for them beams a bit loose you can tuck some carbon or glass,under the beams. To get a natural flex out of the board and loose a bit of unnecessary weight,sand the ends of the beams down after they're glued in,creating a progression in the strength of the board.
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oh yeah..
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On 12/1/2005
john fatty
wrote in from
United States
(66.141.nnn.nnn)
oh yeah- all wheelbase was what I was thinking too, so its nice to hear that it works well for a smooth riding experience.
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