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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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re jeff
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On 6/2/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
look up boating supplies in your area,if you're way way in land try aircraft supplies,both usually have quality slow curing epoxys in much larger than one ounce containers.Internet search on "aircraft spruce" they have everything you need to make longboards
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titebond 3
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On 6/2/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.137.nnn.nnn)
Hey Jeff,
it sounds like you did not use enough and when i use it i never leave it, once the glue is on its in the press, there should be a thick enough layer that you cannot see the wood through it?
Hope you have some better luck!
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GLUE problems
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On 6/2/2006
Jeff
wrote in from
United States
(66.189.nnn.nnn)
I've been trying to make a really nice longboard for about a month now. I've made two moulds that work great if I could get the right glue. I've used three glues that i thought might work great but have just not worked out right. I've used Devcon 2-part epoxy (the only one that work pretty good except for the fact that it is costly and i can only find it in one ounce tubes). The second one i used was titebond 3 wood glue that people said worked well, but did a poor job because it was absorbed so quickly into the wood, by the time i pressed it there were some air pockets. The third glue I tried was the Bondo home solutions 2 part epoxy resin for fiberglassing. I thought this would be the answer to all my problems but i just took it out of the mould and it's cracking and is probably the worst out of all 3 glues i've used so far. So my question is, what is the best epoxy/glue to use in longboard construction. I could really use some help with some brand names and where to buy them.
thanks, Jeff
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more staining
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On 6/2/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.137.nnn.nnn)
I agree, its not a great way to do it, but my brother came up with a great idea, he bought an automotive coachline, (u know go faster stips?) They come like tape and are sticky, he used it to outline the staining, he had the usual run under the tape, but you can minimise this by painting the stain from the tape onto the wood, try not to move the brush toward the edge of the tape.
Anyway, this deck has never gone publick before, i shaped it from a Lush boards 'Bahari' blank, they dont often have them so we were lucky and my brother did all the finishing work, the logo says 'Bean surfing' remember him, he makes surfboards.
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Deck Staining
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On 6/2/2006
Fatboy
wrote in from
United States
(67.94.nnn.nnn)
Crisp staining lines are pretty near impossible. There is usually always some form of seepage under the tape. You can reduce it a little if you put some finish on each color as you do your pattern.
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duane d....
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On 6/1/2006 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
let me know if your coming to the npe this year... tried your cell but not sure if it's still current.
nice first try there btw, david baker!
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First Attempt...
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On 5/31/2006 David Baker
wrote in from
United States
(209.40.nnn.nnn)
Well... it is harder than it looks. And I think I put WAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYY to much glass in it. But heres the first board of the mould.
These are after I shaped the blank. I didn't get all of the air pockets out from under it. And my peel ply had major wrinkles. I may try mylar next time.
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First attempt...
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On 5/31/2006 David Baker
wrote in from
United States
(209.40.nnn.nnn)
Lets try this again
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Deck Staining
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On 5/30/2006 Xenos
wrote in from
United States
(64.142.nnn.nnn)
Does anyone have any tips for staining a deck? What kind of stain should be used? Any tips on masking so the stain doesn't bleed under where you have masked?
Thanks
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next generation trucks
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On 5/29/2006
ninefeet
wrote in from
France
(212.234.nnn.nnn)
yes, pictures !!!!!!!
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Herbn?
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On 5/28/2006
Geezer-X
wrote in from
United States
(151.200.nnn.nnn)
Pics?
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Home Made Boards
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On 5/28/2006 purplekhanabooze
wrote in from
United States
(71.198.nnn.nnn)
Would it hurt the structure of my board at all if I drilled a hole near the front trucks to mount a headlight on the bottom?
The screw would go down through to board into a light bike flashlight
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next generation trucks(again)
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On 5/27/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
my latest creation, a single complete truck and the base for the second are done. They have two pivots,not like those gullwings, but on both sides of the bushings. The new ones have a 3/8 diameter main pivot in the base, it's extra deep, and a smaller pivot bushing ,now in the hanger,and a bracket that interlocks and bolts to the baseplate the end of one of these bolts inter locks with a hollow floating steel kingpin to keep it from spinning while it's being tightened or loosened, the king pin it 5/8 diameter in the base and steps down in diameter a few times before ending in a minimum of 8mm threads,axle nuts and kingpin nut are the same. The hanger is now a sort of "gullwing" that tucks in the bracket for the secondary pivot,putting the pin on the bracket slims it down,this adds ground clearence. Things are slimmed and lightend,bushing clearence for steering is minimal but enough to allow for full steering. weight is 235 grams for a 170mmish truck it's still a half inch or so lower than a venture featherlight shortboard truck.
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molding questions
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On 5/23/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
well i'm glad to see my sarcasism is not entirely wasted, by the screen name "popwar guy" and the "being tired of the price high of boards", i'm thinking short board guy,just gonna buy a few c clamps and a jig saw and make cheap popsickle sticks and take over the industry. "all i need to do is get these longboarders to help me, and i can rule zee world" ha ha ha ahh ahh ahh hee hee hee...
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blahh
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On 5/23/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.139.nnn.nnn)
Right there with ya SS,
the best way to find out is to have a go,
your right about the 'scrap',
mistakes only make the next deck a better one.
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more... molding blankity blank blank... uh, huh
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On 5/23/2006 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
munchh my good man, what i mean is that even when a mold (foam or otherwise) is employed the features (or bends) in it should be slightly exaggerated in order to take into account for deflection or spring back. when a "finished" product such as a blank deck is used as the mold. polystyrene foam may have some deformation but it would be minimal as the load is spread out over a large area in any case even this should be taken into account when forming the mold.
you can use a blank as your mold roger but you will wind up with mellower features. herbn was being sarcastic about using four c-clamps because you should have done a search on your question before posting it. if you had you might have found out that you will not be happy with the outcome.
You will find out that the proper way to set up a one sided mold (which essentially is what you are doing) is to pull things down from the top as it is easier than to push things down in the middle. in order to push in from the middle you would be using greater force on a double side mold. the problem is that when you pull down onto an existing blank you are making the inside of your concave (top) from the outside (bottom) of the old blank or if you could find a way to push it in from the middle you are now making the bottom of your deck from the top of the other (that might correct the deflection come to think about it) with great difficulty. sorry two similar blanks don't cut it either, one would have to be "smaller" than the other or the pressure would be uneven.
that being said, there is an easy way to "correct" the blank in order to make it mold-worthy. a bit of modeling clay strategically placed will add to the concave and the kicks. how much of additional bend you should add all depends on your layup schedule (laminates). if you're using fiber composites... not much, may be an rch (don't ask), for veneer, you'll need a tad bit more, or if you are laying up plywood, even more so. too many variables to give specifics but there you have it. now hit the search in the links above and type in different combinations of mold, plywood, clamps, etc. and read a lot or you'll be spending some money producing (s)crap before you get it right.
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huh
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On 5/22/2006 roger
wrote in from
United States
(69.123.nnn.nnn)
im getting alot of mixed things about my plan
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.....more
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On 5/22/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(81.158.nnn.nnn)
SS,
Its no different than the foam mold in an air press, in theory?
Although 'GOOD' clamps are essential.
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blank as mold
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On 5/22/2006 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
it wont work roger. you loose some of the bends whenever you laminate and those c-clamps just don't cut it. save up to build or buy a proper press of some sort.
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....more
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On 5/21/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.132.nnn.nnn)
....a clamped strip of wood along the centre, the same width as the bolt holes might be an idea, to keep the centre of the deck flat for the trucks, as you might find the centre will be concave aswell, just from the wood bending over the deck?
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7ply maple
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On 5/21/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.132.nnn.nnn)
Hey Roger,
when you say 'veneer' how thick is it? I would understand veneer to mean very thin 0.6mm? For the actual deck you need constuctional venner, this should be around 1.2mm, anyway thats how i see it, the 7 layers of maple in the roarockit kits is mabie a bit stiff, you will find that it will turn out a little thicker than the deck you are using to press it onto, as it would have been pressed under alot more pressure, but this in turn will make your new deck stronger than the comercial deck, as the grain in the maple will not be stressed under all that pressure.
As long as you clamp along the edges, mabie using a stiff strip of wood on top of of the plys, with 2 or 3 spring clamps along each edge, the same with the nose and tail. I use titebond III in a vacuum bag and leave each pressing to dry for 24 hours before releasing the bag, do 3 plys, let them dry then the others if you have the time.
The only other things are to cut your plys to shape, but bigger than you want, this will let the wood bend easier and take the shape better and realise that the concave and kicks will be at a slightly less angle than the original deck.
Have fun man.
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Homemade deck
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On 5/21/2006 Roger
wrote in from
United States
(69.123.nnn.nnn)
Hey i posted before and didnt really get what i was looking for. I am planning on making my own deck. I am going to get 7 layers or maple veneer and glue them all together with tightbond III. I am going to use a blank deck as a mold and put it under the 7 layers of maple veneer. Then i am going to use two c clamps and 4 2inch spring hand clamps all around. Now any suggestions on how to cut the nose and tail? Will the glue keep the nose and tail after i take the clapms off? how long should i leave the clamps on? will the board be concave on the sides? should i put somting on top of the maple veneer layers when i have the clamps on? Will maple veneer be strong enough for the abuse a skateboard takes? thanks alot you guys rock.
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Mould
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On 5/18/2006 David Baker
wrote in from
United States
(4.242.nnn.nnn)
If you look closely at the first pictures you'll see ridges in the mould. There is about a 3/32" difference on each piece. I shifted the router template on them using a adjustable square to set the depth. Screw the template to each board with about 4 screws and rout with a flush cut bit. Glue, clamp and sand/finish-shape with a random orbit sander. About a pepsi later its done. Ta-Dah!
Soon to give birth to a high camber, concave, cut-away beast. B. P. would be so proud...
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MDF Mould
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On 5/17/2006
Yan0
wrote in from
United States
(140.233.nnn.nnn)
David,
that thing looks beefy and sweet... correct me if I'm wrong here, but the pictures you sent of it in the lamination stage were concaveless, and the most recent one has a bit.. How'd you do that? Just careful sanding or some sort of jig with a router... or templating when you did the original routing?
Thanks
yan0
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sounds perfect
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On 5/16/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
use at least 4 c clamps and it should work out perfect.
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