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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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hole fix
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On 7/2/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
if you got a expensive foam core board or something balsa homade with lots of time invested already,extravicant fixes might be the way to go.
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plugs
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On 7/2/2006
HB Hammer
wrote in from
United States
(209.219.nnn.nnn)
That reminds me of an airplane fix.I used to work at Boeing and if a fastener
hole was too big per spec the hole would have to be drilled out larger per engineering, then the machine shop would make a plug, then the installer would shrink it with dry-ice, then swedge it with a rivet gun creating heat swelling the plug in the hole....lot of time and trouble for a messed up hole.
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repairing loose holes
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On 7/2/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
thought of a novel way that this could be fixed. I'd fix one at a time. Perhaps using a forstner drill bit, lets say a .500 drill half way through the board,a drill press comes in real handy here. Then drill all the way through with a .312 (5/16), then if you have a old board, you could use a hole saw to make a plug, then a lathe to cut the step into the plug and make it fit, you glue the plug in and remount the baseplate,use the baseplate to guide a drill to drill the final hole in the plug. Simpler non stepped plugs would probabely work. For glue i always use a slow curing aircraft or marine epoxy, i don't like that polyester stuff.
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Tai's Loosey Goosey Holes
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On 7/2/2006 mike p
wrote in from
United States
(69.107.nnn.nnn)
Hey man.
In addition to skating, I run a small surfboard repair business and think I can help you out. I did this on a skateboard I made that was faulty and had the hardware rip out of the deck (due to a design flaw that would take a while to explain, and would flat-out emberass me.)
Go to a decent surf shop or a tap plastic (http://www.tapplastics.com/) and get a simple polyester resin and a small bottle of MEKP catalyst. Take a small file and make the holes on your board a little bigger and have them agled so they get bigger at the top. Mix the resin according to the instructions and pour it into the holes (tape the bottom so it doesn't just pour through. Then take a drill (press if you have it) and drill new holes. Simple as that. Just make sure you drill them in the right locations!
If you want a simpler fix (since your hardware holes aren't quite as shot as mine were)... Go to a hardware store, and find their precision-cut metal pieces (washers spacers etc). Look for a spacer that barely fits around your hardware, try to find one as wide as your board. Get eight. Stick em on your hardware and jam the hardware with the spacers into your loose holes. That should work too.
By the way, the cause of these loose holes is probably riding hardware that is too loose. This causes unnecisary tension on the inside of the board (as opposed to just the top of the deck) and is probably the original cause of the problem. This would be especially problematic if you had risers on too.
Oh, and if you do the resin/catalyst way, make sure you hang on to the excess materials for the nect time you neet them. It's handy stuff. Don't put it in the can/drain. I surf in that stuff!
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Bamboo
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On 6/30/2006
Nimblybimbly
wrote in from
United States
(66.220.nnn.nnn)
any tips on building a board with bamboo, like where the hell do you get planks of bamboo, or what finish works best. help a hillbilly longboarder fron the north!
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hittin' two boards with one mold...
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On 6/28/2006 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
set: thanks for providing an solution to the dylan/hsfyc dilemma and to answer your question...
the vacuum lamination kits at http://www.roarockit.com are da bomb!
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WOW!!
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On 6/28/2006
set
wrote in from
United States
(24.178.nnn.nnn)
wow!!! just rode the board i built for the first real hill bombing/carving....i just gotta say wow....it was incredible!!! longboarding is where its at!! now i just want to build a deck with flex for better carving. anyone ever try out the roarockit?
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in need of a mold
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On 6/27/2006
dylan/hsfyc
wrote in from
United States
(66.69.nnn.nnn)
where can molds be found. i am in search of finding a mold for making decks in the 8x31 range. does anyone know where a mold for that size can be found
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Very first longboard...
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On 6/26/2006
set
wrote in from
United States
(24.178.nnn.nnn)
so here is the first longboard i have ever built.....no only that, it (will be) is the first longboard i have ever ridden. i have been skating for about 28 years off and on, i started back in 1977 or 1978 with my dad in the parks, however i have never ridden a longboard. well, after finding this site and many others my interest in longboards has been peaked, especially by the idea of designing and building my own decks. this deck is built on a serious budget....hardly anything.... the wood is "select" pine from lowes (i know pine, even nice, is a poor choice but *budget*) with a cherry stain. i admit the craftsmanship is a bit sloppy on close inspection, this is due to me putting on the trucks right after i cut the deck and riding a longboard for the first time ever!! now i wanna carve so bad i can hardly wait....so it is a bit sloppier than i hoped for. i do plan to build more, and hopefully not in such a hurry! the only trucks i have to fit it are old school variflex (yes embarrasing huh?) which are actually surprising lightweight, but horrible turn radius. for wheels i have the original hobie wheels i first skated on back in 77-78, still in great shape not coned yet. anybody know what durometer the basic hobie late 70's wheel was? seems soft.
so, if anyone has a pair of rideable longboard trucks that you want to give to charity.......or sell so cheap it seems like charity....
so enough of all that, here is the deck....
44" long, 9 1/4" wide, 3/4" thick...
before stain and sand
after stain, sand, and my fateful ride!
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tippiness
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On 6/25/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
wouldn't looseness in a low truck make it tippier too, if you've tried the softest bushings and it's not good enough maybe they're just not loose enough. Lowness is faster in just about every type of vehicle,as long as the lowness doesn't interfere with any function, skateboards are governed by physics, they just an excellent tool to manipulate physics for fun. Things can be done that you may not think are possible,but when they are done they are according to the same same physics that govern everything else,the pumping loop for instance.
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Thanks
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On 6/23/2006
Greg Olsen
wrote in from
Canada
(206.172.nnn.nnn)
The Bennetts are really tall trucks and the resulting tippiness is what makes them good slalom trucks I think. Is there a glossary of technical terms you use to describe the geometry of trucks? I wish I had an analytical ability to understand what effect the various positions of elements(axles, pivots, etc) on a truck do to affect performance. I guess experience with a wide vaiety of trucks would do that. The lower pivot of Seismics makes them feel slow to turn correct?
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disipline
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On 6/19/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
ihave no disipline, oh well subtle puns don't(hardly ever) always work.They do steer very well but they are wide/longboard oriented. I consider it super carve,fun skating. Highspeed imaginary cones. Imade a set ,for a friend/ team rider that are narrow. It's gonna be hard to make them as loose and swervy as regular tight slalom trucks, but i think if you can,set up a tight slalom board that's lower there might be(probabely is) a traction advantage and traction = speed, i'm pretty sure. Even just the way a tall board leans towards the cone more than a low board,you straighten out the potential line down through a row of cones.
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Herbn.....discipline?
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On 6/18/2006
Greg Olsen
wrote in from
Canada
(206.172.nnn.nnn)
I asked earlier: Good for slalom or what discipline?
You wonder about the use of that word 'discipline'? In skiing Slalom is a discipline, GS is a discipline, Downhill is a discipline, etc. Maybe it sounds like an old-fashioned term but I don't think it is...or maybe its our British/Canadian english....but again I don't think so....
So if that is close to Radikal geometry why is it not a turning discipline truck?
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tone, foam, damage?
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On 6/18/2006
cnova
wrote in from
United States
(65.91.nnn.nnn)
I've built numerous carbon fiber oil tanks, H2O tanks for various race cars using the same techinque. I've only used epoxy resin. No experience using fiber glass.
Once fully cured, the epoxy resin matrix is not affected by commercially available solvents.
The epoxy is a thermo-setting resin that forms mechanical polymer links.
If you use regular houshold polystyrene insulation, make sure that it is compatable with the epoxy you are using, the epoxy could start eating up the foam as soon as you start laying up the deck.
Hope this helps.
ChiXill Skateboards
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drop through
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On 6/18/2006 cameron J
wrote in from
Australia
(203.164.nnn.nnn)
just found out how to post pics. this is a recent deck i made at home. i hope this works
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disipline?
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On 6/16/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
on most of my trucks the axles do line up with the kingpin but not exactly like Radikals. the axle would go through the kingpin but between the bushings,on the radikals i think the axle might be up/down by the nut or even further, so it swings in relation to the pivot axle. Most of my trucks have minimal offset,.032 or .050 something slight like that, so they're sort of like dh's but not totally flat. the pics on hugh's are old,,like six or eight trucks ago.
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HerbN your trucks...
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On 6/15/2006
Greg Olsen
wrote in from
(206.172.nnn.nnn)
Herbn do your trucks' (your page 11 on the HughR site)axles line up with the kingpin? Is that a Radikal-like geometry? Good for slalom or what discipline? Look nice.
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almost almost done
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On 6/13/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
stayed late today, to finnish up the base and hanger detailing and blending. Axles away from finnishing the second one,i'm gonna leave the part of the axle just inside the hanger fairly solid and thin the deeper parts by the bushings and plug them back up with aluminum or maybe carbon rod. These are unreal.
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1st time glasser
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On 6/13/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.132.nnn.nnn)
Hey guys,
can you use a layer of glass/epoxy on the bottom of a deck, without using any sort of pressure?
If so do i use a roller to get a good flat finnish and is it structurally sound?
I've never used epoxy, so not sure atall?
Thanks.
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YanOs hollow deck
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On 6/12/2006 dkj
wrote in from
United States
(24.20.nnn.nnn)
Yikes! I'll bet it's stiff. I'm going to vacuum a new board with a 1/4 inch Divinycell core. I want a bit of flex and wasn't planning on any interior stringers. For decent snap out of turns do you think I can get away with just the outside stringers (and I was thinking about using spruce with the carbon just for yhe top and bottom of the deck) or should I go with at least one carbon in the middle?
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YanOs hollow deck
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On 6/12/2006
svarteld
wrote in from
Sweden
(193.15.nnn.nnn)
YanO,
I'd just like to say that the hollow "I-beam" deck still works fine after a year, although a bit too rigid. This type of construction might be nice for speedboards, since it's easy to make the deck completely stiff in all directions. The deck has concave, wich can't be seen in this image:
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ascetone, foam, damage?
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On 6/12/2006
ninefeet
wrote in from
France
(212.234.nnn.nnn)
on an ecological point of view, it will affect a lot...
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ascetone, foam, damage?
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On 6/11/2006 Yan0
wrote in from
United States
(67.182.nnn.nnn)
To all you chemically savy: I know that ascetone will eat up a foam like pink board. Will it also damage cured parts? I'm thinking of shaping a core out of foam with spars running from the top to bottom, sortof like an itterated I-beam (I think svarlteld talked about this a while ago). Thinner on the edges, thicker in the middle, etc, etc. If I choose to remove the foam by way of ascetone, will it effect the integrity of the cured deck?
Thanks
yan0
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Wood stain
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On 6/7/2006 Jestah
wrote in from
New Zealand
(222.152.nnn.nnn)
Hi
Getting clean stain lines isnt that hard? use a hot poker knife and burn a cut into the wood. This cuts and seals the fiber and stops the stain running. I would still mask off the side and use a sponge to get get as close to line as you can. Im not sure but maybe just a deep cut with a scalp might be enough if you dont want the black burn line but it can look realy good and give each a nice thin pinline.
Jestah
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new wood
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On 6/7/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.137.nnn.nnn)
Oooh!
I love it when wood arrives in the mail.
Hehehehe.
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