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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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Munchh's 24" Conegobbler
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On 9/4/2006
PaulW
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(81.19.nnn.nnn)
That shortdog is a great way to get through a cyber course. Didn't try it with the ZZs, but it rocked with Bertz and Midtracks!
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nice woodworking!
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On 9/3/2006 bara
wrote in from
United States
(69.14.nnn.nnn)
I have to admit, the symetry between the two beveled sides is amazing, considering you did this board at home.........that's impressive.....dig the swallow tail
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bertlemaniac
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On 9/3/2006 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(72.245.nnn.nnn)
nice work there munchh. that's a good way to lighten the load, giving the deck a snappier feel.
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TS misshap
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On 9/2/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(217.43.nnn.nnn)
Had to show you all this one, i made it from an off cut just to keep my tool skills in check.
I put mid-tracks and Reto bertz on it and took it along to my weekly slalom sesh. It went through the cones like stink, so i put my 66mm green zig-zags on it and it was spot on, white khiro bushings and a bit more rider and its the best TS deck i have, it is based on a Larry Bertlemann 'twin fin mid 70's surf board, 24" x 8" i've got it set up with 15" between the inside bolts, but i can have 14 or 16" aswell, everyone who rode it ended the run with a big smile, so im stocked.
Homemades, dont you just luv em!
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speedboard check 1,2
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On 8/26/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
my latest creation checked out super cool on a few progressively faster runs,ending in a 1 mile plus maybe a little ny state park hill,freshly paved,nice 45 mph. My 40 degree homade trucks with pivot bushings on both sides of the bushings were totally stable,i've reduced the bushing cavity so it packs up a bit against the metal in turns,this stabilizes things very nicely,,more later, gotta go.
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moldings for drew: idea
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On 8/24/2006 Derik
wrote in from
Germany
(193.7.nnn.nnn)
Drew,
read the articles in this forum. Check google for selfmade longboards. You will find a lot of information. Usually your first selfmade will cost you more than buying one. There is some try and error especially when it comes to flex, concave, rocker, kicktails ect.
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matirial
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On 8/23/2006
will
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(80.3.nnn.nnn)
if its you first ever homemade bourd could you just stick some trucks on an old shaped bit of old wood for an old school board
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moldings
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On 8/13/2006
drew
wrote in from
Canada
(24.215.nnn.nnn)
i'm trying to start making my own decks. but for one i dont kno how to and exactly what i need and they costs can some one giv some what of an idea?
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generally speaking...
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On 8/10/2006 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(141.156.nnn.nnn)
you gain some, but you tend to loose more in structural integrity. so unless it's pretty it aint worth it in my book. i do get your point though and the glue can provide some stiffness since it is flexed along its width. i did notice that there were some fine examples of marketry lamination in the vintage gear forum.
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not just aestethic?
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On 8/9/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
vertical lamination has some other characteristics besides alternating colored strips.If you were going to make an oak board, you go down to your lumberyard, they have maybe 1/2 inch ,3/4 inch ,and 1 inch, if you seem to think that 5/8 is a god thickness for your weight/ length of wheelbase you might be able to have the board planed down, but you could also cut the board into 5/8 wide strips and glue them together into a 5/8 inch plank,you do need a way to make nice straight and smoothly finnished cuts, my portable table saw would not be good for this, my delta unisaw is perfect.Also most boards at lumber stores have a horizontal grain orientation,i think when you flip that on it's side you get a longer grain run off ratio, that's sort of like the slope/grading of a hill, it's the average angle of the grain when you look at it from the side, the steeper it is, the worse/weaker it is. Also when you glue the strips together the grain you see from the top is interupted,this helps keep the wood from spliting a little,a layer of glass is reccommended though.
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v-lam...
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On 8/8/2006 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(141.156.nnn.nnn)
...looks like strips of wood when viewed from either side (top or bottom), primarily employed for its aesthetic value alternating dark and light colored woods. as herbn indicated it is best to apply some sort of composite laminate on either side or a solid (or horizontal) laminate in between two layers that are vertically laminated.
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vert lam
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On 8/7/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
plywood ply, are layers of wood top to bottom the wood and the glue is horizontal. Strips of wood lined up next to each other i.e. comets, top end G&S,are held together by vertical glue line,vertical lamination. Usually there are layers of glass or some sort of ply to keep things from spliting, so there is usually some horizontal glue layers in a vertical laminate.
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vert
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On 8/7/2006 Nimblybimly
wrote in from
United States
(66.220.nnn.nnn)
what is vertical lamination? I have heard alot about it but dont have a clue what it is.
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not quite home made but home cut
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how to make your deck
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On 8/4/2006
Slidey
wrote in from
United States
(70.149.nnn.nnn)
OK First thing about your deck...make it 11 ply. The shape is not so mportant what is more important: the length, it has to have 30 to 35 inches of separation betwen the trucks (wheel base, also known as WB)if yu want to do downhill and maintain your stability.
For more interesting info you should look in :
http://users.pandora.be/Toothless/Toothless/index.html
http://www.chrischaput.com/speedboarding/
Thoose are best places to learn to make your longboard, also: in the end it will be cheaper to buy a regular longboard and when you have more experience you can make one yourself. Your first home made board will always have some error so im sure youll end up doing 3 to 5 boards to get to your ideal longboard.
Email me if you have any question, i have a lot of experience doing boards.
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home made skateboards
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On 8/3/2006
madtown
wrote in from
United States
(71.244.nnn.nnn)
can any one help me i want to make a deck thats good not to heavy and the right lenght and width ill take any pointers
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shape
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On 8/2/2006 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(216.80.nnn.nnn)
some concave helps but the right amount of convex is better.
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weight
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On 8/1/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
you gotta be a bit heavy, but not to heavy.
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flexy
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On 8/1/2006 Nimblybimly
wrote in from
United States
(66.220.nnn.nnn)
what is a good way to create a deack that is strong with a bit of flex to it?
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the boardz
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On 7/31/2006 duane
wrote in from
United States
(4.238.nnn.nnn)
yes it is a good idea to coat any wood before skinning it, if the fiber only has enough resin in it to wet the fibers, the wood may require more, leaving a poor dry bond.
we tried the "box", a vacuum box with the mold in it, but we rushed it and it leaked, so we just stuck the whole box in the bag. I'll coat it with resin later and round the inner corners with bondo. A vacuum box allows the use of bagging film only to cover the top, and makes hooking up the hose easy.
I also discovered that vinyl ester resin swells polyethylene film; stretch it tight, vacuum it down without wrinkles, and new wrinkles appear as if by magic. The film is swelling, getting bigger, and has to wrinkle.
I gotta get some of the nylon bagging film that stretches 400%, just cover the top of the box tightly, then hit the vacuum, and it conforms without wrinkles
in theory
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carbon boards
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On 7/31/2006 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(216.80.nnn.nnn)
those turned out nice duane... are they the ones that came out of the "box"?
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Balsa
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On 7/31/2006
Terry Whalen
wrote in from
(72.85.nnn.nnn)
Duane,
Nice looking boards!
Did you pre-treat or prime the balsa beam on the slalom board before skinning with the carbon? I've read that some surfboard shapers using balsa as a core will use a light coating to minimize the balsa from sucking up too much resin. Or is this not an issue with vacuum-bagging?
Terry
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Shortening a fibreflex
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On 7/31/2006 1848
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(213.40.nnn.nnn)
Hi there, I have this 33" fibreflex-type board which i want to shorten and use for tight slalom. I'm thinking of something around 25-27", as i like short wheel base.
are there any specifics to consider before i attack the board with my jigsaw? is there a fibre grain to respect or should i just set the finest blade and go for it? also, and even though i am not there yet, is it possible to have wheel wells on a fibreflex or should i consider cut through?
any advice welcome.
thanks
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new carbon boards
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On 7/30/2006 duane
wrote in from
United States
(4.238.nnn.nnn)
My bro and I have collaborated on a couple of new boards. We did the blank lay-ups in my shop, and he did the finishing work
One speedboard 6-ply Canadian maple core with carbon skins vacuumed on, flat-concave, 31" wb, about 41"x11", nice square edges, drop-through
One slalom board with Finnish birch ply and balsa beam, carbon skins, cambered, about 30x8
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about my boards
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On 7/28/2006
Nadu
wrote in from
Peru
(200.106.nnn.nnn)
send me an email ....bernardocastanondelgado@hotamil.com for hte details, i dont know how to post images in this site!!
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