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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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dropped Randals
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On 1/3/2007 Nimblybimbly
wrote in from
United States
(66.220.nnn.nnn)
Lowerd randals (180s) are perfect for smooth wide swooping carves when a hill is steep enough and long so that if it is requierd that you just bomb it, its not a issue. So far I have had no troubles with them.
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r2 on short boards
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On 12/28/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
the main problem with r2's on shortboards is the tallness, with a short board and a 6.5 inch long tail a shortboard tail won't tap/scrap until the angle is real steep and it gets worse as the tail wears down.
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Falcon's interchangeable query
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On 12/28/2006 Pre-School Rider
wrote in from
United States
(75.68.nnn.nnn)
Black Falcon (cool ID!), yup, most everything is interchangable. There are exceptions, of course. The big thing in decks-to-trucks is with regards to the mounting holes, as 'retro' and 'old-school' type boards, and some downhill-specific/race longboards will be drilled with the longer 'old school' truck-hole pattern. Easy enough to fix, usually, just by poking new holes in the deck, or selecting truck baseplates that have both old+new school hole patterns(why you'll see 6 holes on many baseplates now).
As for bearings, really you'll only see that change up on 'dirtboards', where the axle might be a Diameter of 10mm instead 8mm.This beefier axle is for handling the jumping and taller wheels used on Dirtboards.Look for big Rubber Tires as the giveaway telltale sign that the axle/bearing are different.
Ocassionally, there'll be a wheel made that uses a wider spacer between the bearings (Exates, by example) that might not fit on the length of axle left on 'new-school' trucks. There's a few wheels out there (like the big-core Krypto Slaloms) that run Narrow Width (8mm wide, Vs. 10mm wide) cores that used a thinner spacer;those may need extra axle washers to keep from slopping side-to-side on longer axles. Otherwise, the Diameter of the axles, and the bearings used are normal.
The final issue is in wheel clearance, where bigger wheels used on a newschool kickflipper will fit on the trucks, they'll rub on the deck in turns or ollies. Riser pads between the deck/trucks is the oldschool solution, having the board shaped with wheel cutouts is the longboard solution. There's not much stopping you from using newschool wheels on a longboard, other than it'll slow you down (well, and pebbles,gravel,sidewalk cracks will get ya; this is stuff that Longboards just cruise over with the usual big+soft wheels).
Skateboards have evolved, slowly, from their roots as cut-apart rollerskates mounted on a plank. Most stuff from the 70's on is interchangeable with the stuff used now. When mixing/matching parts, pay attention to how the trucks mount, how big/small the wheels are, and the wheel-to-deck clearance if the wheels are big-ish. There's enough accessories(risers,truck parts,wheel choices,deck shapes/sizes) out now that you can build a board to suit with ease. Heck you can even make your own deck (like with a Roarakit).
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Longboard vs Skateboard Wheels
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On 12/27/2006
Black Falcon
wrote in from
Canada
(24.202.nnn.nnn)
I'm putting together a longboard/skateboard hybrid kinda thing. I have longboard trucks (randal 180's), and i saw some pretty cool sector 9 wheels on ebay. Thing is, can I put on skateboard wheels on longboard trucks? and vice versa, can i put on longboard wheels on skateboard trucks? will there be any issues, or do all wheels fit all trucks. same goes for bearings, are their longboard bearings and skateboard bearings, or its all the same?
just wanna make sure before i buy stuff,
thanks in advance
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Customizing trucks
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On 12/26/2006 Ben
wrote in from
United States
(76.169.nnn.nnn)
Can anyone give me tips on customizing trucks. i want to cut some indys down to about the size of midtracks. Any Tips?
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hard to describe
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On 12/25/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
how do my lowered randals ride? let's see the loose alot of that swerve that randals have, the still steer ,alot,but they just sort of point and shoot, sort of track real confident. they have to be really loose to get even a little wobbly,but like randals i've never actually gotten wobbles on either. I havn't gotten wobbles in at least 20 years,just little twitches like "we're about ot wobble,carve you fool".then i carve real hard through the steepest section and the bottom of the hill comes.
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arrrgghhhhh!
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On 12/25/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
i just took to long typing(thinking while typing) a responce and lost it.I'm not retyping,right now. If your board drifts to much in a turn because it's low and you need to lien a lot,shorten the board.tough if your into drop throughs, i just make low low trucks that bolt in a channel on the bottom of the board.
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Herbn R-II 180
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On 12/24/2006 jestah
wrote in from
New Zealand
(202.180.nnn.nnn)
Hi
Herbn can you share what your inline 180's rode like. What have you found would make a better DH truck, other than dropping the hanger angle?
I was considering using a 160mm width as i want to match it with a lowered board and would like to balance the more push (rather than tilt of a top mount) with a truck that is a bit more turny... do you think this is a compromise that will work?
I might be able to stop in NY on my way as i might be going up to Toronto.
thanks
jestah
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lamination... learn by teaching
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On 12/16/2006 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
check out this real good article about board building with roarockit. it's one of the better ones out there.
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landy
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On 12/13/2006 Civ
wrote in from
Canada
(24.141.nnn.nnn)
Im pretty sure that the boards were pressed at a furniture company for a time, you might want to look into that industry, they will have the know how for sure.
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landy-style lowboy
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On 12/13/2006 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.68.nnn.nnn)
I'm really unsure of just what Landyatchz does to create the many-layered, tightly-curved wood shapes of their low-rider decks. However, a vacumn press will bend wood into very complex shapes easily. The thing is, will it cure without warping? One way to go about this is to combine a mechanical form (such as a metal cassette or stiff plastic/hardwood form buck) using a mechanical press, while Also providing vacumn to the blank deck And it's form buck. Line Skiboards did this in the early days, when they were still in Albany. If I recall correctly, a reusable metal casstte was used (this being for Production purposes), and the vacumn seal was by way of a heat-resistant plastic bagging, while the press itself was hydraulic with formed bedways which were heated to 170* F or so. The bags were vacumned by a simple pump at
-12 mb or so. The result was that the epoxy glues got literally pulled into all the voids, and the pressure on the cassette was pretty even throughout. Warpage wasn't an issue here. This might be too complex to do at home, but maybe it'll give you an idea or two? ;-)
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landyachtz laminations
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On 12/12/2006
cam
wrote in from
Australia
(220.233.nnn.nnn)
hi all...
does anyone know how landyachtz laminates their boards, in particular the evo, dh race and urban assault??? what kind of preperation is done to the wood to make it bend so well?does anyone know the glues they use to laminate the boards?what kind of press are they using???could this be done in a vacuum that pulls 20hg???
also has anyone tried building a lowered board similiar to the evo? i am thinking about making one myself instead of a new drop through..any advice???thanks.
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r-2 adaptions
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On 12/6/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
my first longboard hangers(maybe 8 or 9 years ago), were also made to fit randal bases,they are split axle and put the axles on sides of the bushings,the axle line goes through the kingpin,between the bushings,no offset,maybe a little, i don't remember. I'm in the nyc area,north/western suburbs.
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rake
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On 12/6/2006 jestah
wrote in from
New Zealand
(202.180.nnn.nnn)
Hi
cheers herbn after re-reading most of these post around i finally just click thanks to your responce...
What i think im going to do is make a hanger much like the R-2 180 but with about half as much rake and an other set with none. I am also trying to use cc fyre truck principles but am having issues finding bearing that will allow more than 15degress of rotation. Im hoping this will be enough but if its not i will make some bolts that fit in to the 8mm hole but are a bit thinner before and after the bearings to give an extra few degrees.
Where in the states are you based and would you consider a visit from a builder from down under? I have watched your work for many years and admired what you do and would be stoked to meet the man behind the curtain. I hope to get over mid-late 07.
Thanks for the advice and ill post some pic as soon as i get my hangers made... (may take a while with work and all...)
Jestah
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rake
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On 12/5/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
i think the guy the other day summed rake fairly well,it's a leverage on the bushings,and sort of makes a truck dive into corners,it creates a bit of instability,makes a tuck swerve a bit more.This is not that desirable in a dh truck,hence randal dh's have no rake,i've made trucks with minimal,.020 to .040,something like that. I've seen articles on rake in motorcycle magazines,a general diagram of how a change in rake changes the contact patch, a bit of rake increases the contact patch in a turn, that's on a motorcycle though,the tire flattens out a bit on the bottom,that happens a tiny bit on a skateboard,i guess.
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Rake on a truck
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On 12/4/2006 jestah
wrote in from
New Zealand
(202.180.nnn.nnn)
Hi
Herbn or any other tuck experts can you tell me more about rake... what effect does offsetting the axil from perpendicular to the center of the axis of rotation have? Surely it produces a different feel from just changing the hanger angle as by offsetting the hanger is still on the same angle therefore describing the same arc but by having the wheels at a different position will make the board turn differently at the same tilt angle of the board?
thanks
jestah
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making trucks
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On 12/4/2006 jestah
wrote in from
New Zealand
(202.180.nnn.nnn)
Hi
fitz iv been in touch with eddy but he being all the way down there and me being at the top of the north island now makes meeting a little tricky. I have been hoping to ride his quiver for some time!
Herbn im making a truck that will be a bit like CC new truck as he isnt making the dh version for a while. I wanted to know the rotation to make sure i get a bearing that can rotate more than what the truck needs so i dont get bolts snapping. I was going to make the hangers about 160 wide but then have screw in axils that have a ridge to make the total width from 160 up to 180.
jestah
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jester trucks
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On 12/4/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
Your concern for twist sounds like your gonna make sort of a flexbeam type of truck,if you were going to make a mechanical truck the angle of deflection would just "sort of be what it's gonna be" if you look over at the trucks page ,the pictures of the gog's with the snapped kingpins are an example of a mechanical lien angle limit gone wrong.
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re: rake
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On 12/4/2006
fitz
wrote in from
Australia
(220.236.nnn.nnn)
The best way to feel the difference rake angle makes is to ride trucks which are modified like slalom trucks. Indy, Tracker etc. They seem to grip better and don't have that tippy diving turn action like high rake trucks do.
Where abouts in NZ do you live Jester? I got a friend in wanaka with a nice quiver of slalom decks and some exotic trucks aswell. He's always keen to meet up with riders. I'm sure he'd let you try em out.
I'm in the process of making some trucks for downhill aswell (just gotta get my butt into gear!) I made my own baseplate for the rear to suit randal force etc hangers. 30deg works awesome for the rear.
I actually wedge my r7 force truck up front and ride it relatively loose and still don't get wobs at 85km/h. You're spot on using an r1 baseplate out back.
Send me an email. I'd like to talk to you about a legal downhill race we're organising for next year.
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home made downhill trucks
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On 12/3/2006 jestah
wrote in from
New Zealand
(124.197.nnn.nnn)
Hi all
I would like to make my own downhill truck to put on some home made carbon and foam boards.
So what i would like know is how much rotation do you need around the axis of rotation (the axis that is perpendicular to the bottom of the pivot cup, not the hanger angle) . Is 15 degrees enough? I measured my holyes twist a little over 20 but are far too carvey for 45+mph.
I am also trying to understand rake and how it affects the feel of a truck. Can some one please explain a little further? To me it seems to change the hanger angle but is the difference the same as wedging with a hanger that has its axils perpendicular to the axis of rotation?
Long ago i found a web page that had a really good expiation and photos (not chris's web page) It had a photo of the short board truck too. I have searched and cant find it any where... Any one have a bookmark?
I was thinking of a 40/50 base plate combo but what do you guys think? At the moment i ride a R-II 180 up front and a DH with a 180 hanger out back
At the moment I'm just trying to get the angle and size sorted before i worry about making the things...
thanks for the help
jestah
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Compressed multi-ply wood?
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On 11/28/2006
Scotty T
wrote in from
United States
(69.109.nnn.nnn)
Where can I purchase compressed multi-ply wood to cut my own longboard/skate decks? Anyone with this info please help. I want to build my daughter a skate board for christmas.
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birch vs maple
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On 11/26/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
maple is harder,it can take much more abuse. birch is a little lighter though i think it needs to be thicker to hold the same weight,it has a less snappy rebound,if you hit a speed while going fast a birch board would be less likely to bounce you off. Birch is more available, i don't know of a local source for sheets of entirely maple ply. I think birch ply is cheaper by the sheet. Birch sands and cuts easier. If you find a source for any hardwood plywood make sure its that hardwood through and through ,the old posts are litered with many many post of people buying such and such plywood at lowes(or whatever) and finding their new board drags on the ground when they try to ride it. Good birch ply has many layers all the same thickness and will probabely set you back about 12 bucks per longboard,any cheaper is to good to be true.
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Birch vs. Maple
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On 11/26/2006
Daniel M.
wrote in from
United States
(68.212.nnn.nnn)
How does baltic birch compare to maple. do they have the around the same weight and flex and strength or is maple stronger and stiffer?
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re:home made wheels
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On 11/25/2006
yoyo schulz
wrote in from
Germany
(84.178.nnn.nnn)
My friend mentioned a company called Sika, they have a US webpage as well.
http://www.sikacorp.com/
I really don't know what the exact product name is......
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re: homemade wheels
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On 11/25/2006 gahbenshtein
wrote in from
United States
(68.39.nnn.nnn)
anywhere on the net where you could you get the urethane?
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