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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 7/16/2000 Nick
wrote in from
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Glen, Paul et al,
Thanks for all the advice, much appriecated.
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On 7/16/2000 Nick
wrote in from
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does anyone have any ideas for a simple, at home, camber bending jig/press? Would it be easier to maybey press the board upside down in a similar manner to a twintipped board and then turn over to ride? If possible, i,d like to have a flat kicktail.
cheers.
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On 7/16/2000 Glen
wrote in from
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Nick, I use two different way of dealing with it.
1. I laminate the fabric/glass onto the deck before it's shaped. finish resin glass coating as described below.
a. then cut out rough shape with bandsaw and finish shape with a router. The Bosch bits have no problem cutting the fully dried expoy resin. Other bits will overheat and dull real fast.
b. I usually then like to seal the edges with a thin coat of epoxy.
2. shape deck first or buy a shaped deck.
a. laydown a thin layer of resin, then place cloth on top and squegee more resin on top. Add glass and more resin, be sure to saturate the glass and cloth. Wait for it to 3/4 dry and cut around deck with a razor blade, much like adding griptape.
b. When fully dry, I use a sander with 220grit to finish shape the edge of the glass/cloth. Like you do with a file when adding griptape.
c. Sand the deck with a random orbit sander loaded with 220 or smoother to knock down resin blobs.
d. add another thin coat of resin.
e. when dry, sand lightly with 220, 300, 400, 600 grit and then buff out with polish.
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On 7/16/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
Plumbers epoxy,cool stuff,for filling in flaws like;extra holes,gaps in the edge ply ect.ect. Maybe even for board repairs later on,has a grey color,thats fairly inconspicuous and it sands well and probabely takes paint nice too.Careful though it dries quick and you'll be left with a round stone of hardened epoxy.
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On 7/15/2000
jonnieo
wrote in from
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They have polyester resin in quart sizes at my local true-value hardware store.
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On 7/15/2000 Nick
wrote in from
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Glen, whats the best way to get a nice even cut around the edge of the board with frabric and glass, if the board has rounded edges? Will the router cut glass/frabric ok or should i use a craft knife when half dry?
Thanks
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On 7/15/2000 Glen
wrote in from
(216.102.nnn.nnn)
Nick, I do the fabric and glass thing all the time. There is an exanmple on Hugh's board building webpage, you can find it in the links section. It works well with both resins.
Morgan, go to a surf shop or boat shop for polyester resin. They sell it in real small quantities. For Epoxy resin, go to a boat shop. West Marine is all over the U.S. and they have it.
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On 7/15/2000
Morgan
wrote in from
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Does anyone know where you could buy a really low amount of fiberglass finish like about a quart?
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On 7/15/2000 FOX Longboards
wrote in from
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What is the thinnest longboard that anyone here has made (that has withstould time) and how did you make it. PLEASE RESPOND!
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On 7/15/2000 paul d.
wrote in from
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Nick, Glen is right about the titebond-2 glue. That stuff is almost the exact same glue
used in the plywood industry.It's what you should use besides just being waterproof is a bonus.
(just don't use it on a boat below the waterline it's not that good!)I should mension that the 20 min.
white glue I use is not the same as a typical carpenters glue. You should
always check a glues shear strength.The glue I use is as strong
or stronger then the wood.I've seen enough mistakes in the shop to know
that there's no hope in hell of opening a glued up joint without breaking the wood..
Herb, is there a good reason (besides the many different kinds trucks) why a skateboards
wheel base isn't axle to axle as are most every other vehicle with wheels. The skate industry isn't
being very accurate, I guess most people just don't care. Just asking.
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On 7/15/2000 paul d.
wrote in from
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Glen that's pretty much the same way i make my decks.I think using a drawing program to set up the center line
and holes is really the best way to start. Even if someone finds it tricky to control the curved lines of a drawing program and prefers to
draw by hand.Actually I think using both a CAD type program and drawing by hand will produce
the best results(I' ve been drafting for over 20 years using both).
To mark the truck holes in a concave or cambered deck I only draw the center line.The truck pattern is drawn on a
5"X7" card (start with the center line that runs off both ends of the paper the longer the paper the more acurate.)Now, I simply line up the center line
of the deck with the center line of the card and tape it down.I then carefully press my pencil on the cross hairs, marking
the holes, just hard enough to dent the wood.I you must always cross measure your points.
I like this method because it's more acurate to draw(be square) on paper the on the actual board.
Herb's method is more acurate for a "Known" pair of trucks
but I don't always know which trucks I'll be using.
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On 7/15/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
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I've found Randles to actually be very precise,especially the newer ones,the tolerance on the kingpin has gotten real good.I may have to try one more time,two strikes on the axle connecting idea ,next time i use larger pieces of 7075 extruded billet, so the chances of them being straight and un warped are better, i may index the mill to,just to make sure the holes are square.I like the template idea,i've wanted to produce some boards again,i can do without the computer though,this is almost all i use my computer for and i have a cad program.
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On 7/15/2000 wakeskater
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
I have to say that herbs got something by alinging the axles and not the holes due to manufacturing trucks are really not machined right 100% of the time
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On 7/15/2000
Ali
wrote in from
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Of course! A snap line. I wish I had thought of that. I'll be using that, either for marking a centerline or two "over-the-hole" lines.
Thanks!
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On 7/14/2000 Nick
wrote in from
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Does anyone have any experience with laminating frabric cloth under fibreglass.Edge longboards appear to be made this way giving beautiful hawian style prints.Anyone have any ideas on frabric ink compatibility with polyester and epoxy resins etc.
< br>
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On 7/14/2000 Glen
wrote in from
(216.102.nnn.nnn)
Herbn,
I lay all of my decks out in Macromedia's Freehand. Unlike Adobe Illustrator, it allows you to chain multiple pages together to make a big paper pattern. This gets my truck patterns laid out to a real fine accuracy. You could also have the patterns printed on transparency at a pro printing shop but it would probably be expensive.
My process isfor building decks is...
1. layout the deck and truck patterns on the computer in Freehand.
2. printout to either long paper or set to print across multiple pages.
3. tape transfer paper to the back of the paper pattern.
4. tack and tape the pattern down to a 1/2" thick piece of particle board.
5. transfer pattern and mounting holes to the particle board.
6. Rough cut out shape using a bandsaw, use a center punch and drill press to drill holes, shape with a belt sander. final shape with vibrating sander. The particle board shapes real well.
7. Lay particle board template on ply or laminated deck. Drill through the holes and bolt the pattern to the plywood.
8. trace the shape onto the skate deck and rough cut, leaving about 1/4" - 1/8" over pattern size.
9. use a router with a flush cutting bit (with bearing) to final shape deck. Use Bosch bits. These last the longest in my experience.
10. remove the template.
11. roundover, and glass or don't glass, finish sand seal and ride.
The trucks have been real straight. Any deviation has been when I decide that I HAVE to ride my new deck right that minute and hand drill the trucks. You could set steel liners in the truck holes on the template if you're afraid of rounding out the holes while drilling. I'm not a real stickler for truck alignment, so for me, this has worked. It should work for people who need real tight tolerences too.
Making the templates is a bit of a pain, but after they're done, I can crank out 10 decks a day, finished.
See if this works for you.
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On 7/14/2000 Pre-School -Rider
wrote in from
(209.198.nnn.nnn)
Ali,I worked off a centerline on a 'square' truck baseplate.I checked the hole placement on this one good baseplate Very carefully,and marked a centerline on it at the front and back edges.Then I used a well placed + measured chalk snap-line down the center of my board,and lined up the base on that line to mark where the holes would go.This also allowed me to play with the wheelbase/axle height before drilling holes.Funny thing,I discovered that Nu-Deal had offset the rear truck by 3mm.
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On 7/14/2000 Paul d.
wrote in from
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I've got a fool proof way to mark the holes but i don't have time to explain now.
I'm writing this as a reminder.
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On 7/14/2000 FOX Longboards
wrote in from
(131.109.nnn.nnn)
Hey Guys,
What is the thinnest board you have made that has remained stable (doesn't bottom out or snap) over the years. And How did you make it?
I looking for ways to make stiff kicktails without a professional press or wood steamer. Any help?
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On 7/14/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
I'm definitely going back to marking and drilling the holes before shaping,just X the marks and line up the template in the middle,flip it and retrace,cut, sand/route, and finnish to your liking,done,GO SKATE!
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On 7/14/2000
Ali
wrote in from
(212.48.nnn.nnn)
Neil, Hugh & Pre-School: thanks for your advice. I'm busy moving at the moment, so it may be some time before I actually do this, but I think some of your advice will come in handy.
There's still one question though:
How do I line up the trucks? They'll be past the kick, which makes it difficult to measure. Any thoughts on this?
I think that, since I want to put some nice graphics on the bottom as well, I'll draw 2 parallel lines on my deck, passing over the mounting holes.
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On 7/14/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
aaargggghhh! I give up,no not on making boards,but the connect the axles to line up the trucks thing, I fixed this board by shifting to the new school holes, lining the bases up with a straight edge and drilling new holes. The board feels sweet,46 inches long ,14plys, 33inch wheelbase , 10.5 wide slightly wide pin tail with the trucks close to the ends so it feels fully under my size 10 feet,with excellent wheel clearence, nice.Now for some final sanding and routing.
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On 7/14/2000 Glen
wrote in from
(216.101.nnn.nnn)
Nick stay away from the white glues. The yellow Tite-bond 2 is a nice waterproof glue. I used it on a verticle laminated deck, you can see pictures on Hugh's web page. I use epoxy resin on most of my projects but I actually think that titebond 2 works better in some situations. Epoxy, because it is so rigid, can sometime crack the surrounding wood on joints. The titebond is more plyable so it tends to work with the wood instead of fighting it. For laying up ply or verticle laminates, I suggest Titebond 2, for glass work or sealing/abrasion proofing a deck the Epoxy can't be beat.
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On 7/14/2000
aftermath
wrote in from
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if i were to, say, lay my own plywood & press it in my basement, where could i get the veneer i'd want to use? i mean, i wouldn't like to use face-grade veneer--it'd be a waste...so where could i find some...i guess..."plywood grade" veneer? i'm guessing they use 1/16" for shortboards. and how much would it be?
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On 7/13/2000 nick
wrote in from
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Evan, most spicies of eucalyptus look to be ok, but make sure it is eucalyptus all the way through, not just on the outside.Check the sides for any gaps/holes which could lead to breakage.Marine quality is usualy pretty good but still check.
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