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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 8/14/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
RooX,
I have hear the guys who do this using the patterned cloth just as they would a layer of glass. If it is on a flexy deck or going to help in adding strength, I would suggest applying the cloth and glass under pressure... HR
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On 8/12/2000 RooX
wrote in from
(24.64.nnn.nnn)
hey all, wondering about the steps to put a fabric on the bottom of my latest board. Ive been thinking about just saturating it with resin and letting it harden the ndoing a coat of fibreglass over top. Does ths sound right? will it work and will the glass stick to it? (i think it should)
cheers all,
RooX
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On 8/12/2000 Big Steve
wrote in from
(155.13.nnn.nnn)
I've made two boards recently. Being a really big guy I went with
5/8" 14 ply. It holds by weight very well. Anyway the reason
I seek higher knowledge is to improve truck mounting. When I made
my board I started off by drawing a center line on the ply, aligned my paper
plan and used 3M 77 spray glue to hold it. I then cut out the plan and true up
the sides with a belt sander. I have yet to decide if I want to router the
next one out from a template....
I then align the trucks up as close as I can for square with a few crude
measurements and then eyeball then for straightness. Surely there must
be a better way to align the trucks? Any assistance is welcomed.
Let me just say that cars do part when they see 350 pounds of rolling thunder coming down the street!
Adios.
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On 8/12/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Rob K,
If you ever get to the LA area you can check out Far West Plywoods in Northridge... they have 14 ply maple and 14 ply birch. The maple is beautiful and about $80 for a 4x8 sheet. The birch is nice and about $30 for a 5x5 sheet.
I don't think they ship but they may. If you need a number shoot me an e-mail and I will get that to you...
You might try some of the furniture/cabinet making mfg's in your area too... HR
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On 8/11/2000
namon
wrote in from
(4.4.nnn.nnn)
HerbN, your on a mean streak today hahahahahahhaha
namon
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On 8/11/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
Sounds like a joke,like you're making boards just to smell the glue.You should drop your mobile home on your mold for laminating pressure have a few of those trailerpark hotties over for extra presure.
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On 8/10/2000
Chupp Messing
wrote in from
(63.30.nnn.nnn)
I'm working on a composite deck made from carbon fibre and insulating foam.
Does anybody know how I can protect the sides? I tried gluing some automobile siding which is made for Recreation Vehicles.
The board has bouncy tendencies, but I'm going to bolt on another peace of wood to stiff it a might.
I think I can race this board, but I want good graphics.
Does a kick tail warp help with keeping the board on the ground at higher velocities? I'm using leathers but they are too tight.
My next board will be made at my work. They have a cutter that will cut anything. I'm going to make one using the latest plastics like polypropelene or sandwich it with paneling from our basement.
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On 8/10/2000 Stinky
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
I was wondering if anybody has tried to use IPE or " African Iron wood" in the construction of a longskate. I have worked with it, building decks, and it is by far the strongest least flexible wood ever. my 3200psi power washer barely dents ipe, but cuts holes in everything else.
seemed like a good idea....
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On 8/9/2000
rob k.
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
i live in antioch california,(east bay)
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On 8/9/2000 R.
wrote in from
(132.239.nnn.nnn)
Has anyone tried or contemplated making a _cambered_ board out of bamboo? I see by the posts that Hugh R. and some others have expressed some interest in the material... According to the promo materials of both bambuboards and some bamboo flooring companies, the vertlam bamboo seem pretty ideal for skateboards in terms of strength and flex, and also have the advantage of not being a product of rain forest clear-cutting (here in So Cal it's actually more like a weed). Sort of like the cabinetmaker's hemp, I guess. So I was wondering if anyone has enquired as to the feasability of doing this at home, price-wise and material-wise. I imagine it would be simple enough to buy a flooring board from one of these companies and cut it up, but I was wondering how the bamboo vertlam would hold up under a bending jig, whether it would take enough water to bend, etc (bambuboards has no cambered models). Any ideas? FYI: Amazingly enough, there's even a company that makes surfboards (li'l shredders and big old tankers alike) out of bamboo. Don't ask me how. Very expensive, but very very interesting idea and a lot better for shapers and surfers if you can afford it. Endorsed by Sonny Garcia, Hawaiian tube-master.
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On 8/9/2000
RooX
wrote in from
(24.64.nnn.nnn)
hey all, after a long summer of work and riding im taking the day to build another board for my quiver. I have all the downhill and surf style boards i need so im starting to make a slalom board.. something just to zip around on at campus. So here are my questions im looking at making it like the sector 9 cosmic 1 and i dont have a bending jig. I have been told that they are not necissarily needed and i could just find something that will bend it in the shape i need and just tie the board down with twine and it will give me the desired effect. So my first wuestion is do i need the bending jig or will my twine idea work? Secondly, after the bending is done will it stay bent if i dont glass it... i could just imagine this great board going flat after a week of riding... not what i want to happen. And lastly, will the board perform as well without the glass, im thinking it would loose its snap back and just sag. help me out mates.
Cheers
RooX
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On 8/9/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Rob K, what area are you in... HR
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On 8/9/2000 rob k
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
where would someone find 14ply plywood at?
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On 8/8/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(208.192.nnn.nnn)
I was think'n(oh oh!);the castings of a truck,particularly the baseplate, are cast really symetrically as far as i can tell.Then the various holes are drilled in;kingpin, pivot,mounting bolts.I just disassembled a random, brand new Randle and took out my digital calipers(double oh,oh!)the pivot is very close,only.005 off,the kingpin is close but off by a little more than that(its a little hard to find a consistant spot to measure),the mounting holes though are definitely off.Measuring to the edge of the casting starting clockwise, right of the pivot measured boardside,(.176old school),.176,.148,.212,.174,(.167old school)the problem is on the holes on the kingpin side ,this inaccuracy is not that bad (+/-.032)in the skateboard industry,Indy,Venture,Tensor all show similar inaccuracys,though you would think a truck that promises high speed stability and is probabely ridden at a much higher average speed than any of those other trucks,would be more concerned about straightness,by the way they ARE stabile,while rolling like a old pick up truck.If you bolt these trucks on a perfectly drilled board,sector 9s are quite accurate in their drilling (+/-.010)you will get a board that rolls crooked;stabile,nice carving,but still crooked. Now, this post is in homemade boards boards for a reason,i shape my new boards using only the two outer truck holes,then i take the set of Randles,i plan to use,bolt the bases down using the two holes in the board, (kingpins in place,inverted)then line up the bases by the side edge(remember,the castings are very accurate)tapping them until they line up straight ,then i drill the holes, put the bolts through, tighten them up,and never take that board apart.I know my current board,prototype no.1 using this method, rolls real fast and stabile,it could be its thick 14 ply construction,the bearings,or the wheels.My Exskate Easyrider 70mm may be just the right size for the hills i'm riding ,but i know that not having to steer,a little,continuously has got to speed you up just a little,and or make you a little less sketchy.I figure that this would be a good way to sell boards also,$100.00 for board and trucks +shipping.Or just make your own,correctly.
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On 8/5/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(208.192.nnn.nnn)
my 3/4 inch 14 ply homemade has demonstrated to me the contrast between a speedboard and a carving board,this stiff solid heavy board is definitely the fastest most stabile board i've ever riden,it drifts consistant tracks perfect ect but it just doesn't like to be carved through tight deep carves,at low speeds, it makes a set of r2s take on more r1 characteristics,it's fun to haul ass, but my Sector 9 concave pin out turns it at slow speed any day,even though they have the nearly the same wheelbase,a unintentional, good for comparison, coincidense.
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On 8/4/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
hohum,big gaps between customers today. That talk of 1400 dollar shogo kubos got me thinkin.An air beam type longboard ,i've seen them done for water(surfboards),they could be really cool,constructed like a airplane wing,but filled at the edges some glass or carbon inside,recessed truck mounting cause it would have to be kind of thick.
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On 8/4/2000
Chris
wrote in from
(208.164.nnn.nnn)
Kanoa,
If it's supposed to look like a Harley, shouldn't it be chrome grab rails and trim instead of brass.
Just a thought.
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On 8/3/2000 Kanoa
wrote in from
(38.29.nnn.nnn)
soon will start making boards that look like Harley Davidsons, I thought about making one out of different types of exotic woods and clear coating it like a Criss Craft boat then attaching polished brass grab rails and trim.
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On 8/3/2000 Kanoa
wrote in from
(38.29.nnn.nnn)
Hey Herbn post a pic on Hugh's site of your board when it's done, I gotta see this!
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On 8/3/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(208.192.nnn.nnn)
Just ordered ,the billet and aluminum tubing for my adjustable concave tube frame deck.The tubing will be six feet long,though i don't think i'll go that long.Truck position will be adjustable,the trucks will be mounted on clamps that could be slid up and down on the frame.
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On 8/2/2000
Nick
wrote in from
(203.96.nnn.nnn)
Hey Spanky,
I,m a NZ boardbuilder, you can email me at the adress above.
Where abouts do you get your veneer from in NZ? I,ve tried everywhere with no luck.I,ve been using fijian maple, but it isn,t really even maple, they just call it that.IF you know of any maple or similar veneer(1-1.5mm)4"x10" I,d be stoked.
Fibreglass is definetly the go in stiffening up a board without adding too much thickness.
Good luck.
BTW, Where are you from in NZ?
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On 8/2/2000 matt
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
does anyone know where i can get marine grade maple plywood in 24" x 4' sheets i don't want to pay for the larger sheet. i'm in the sf bay area, near walnut creek.
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On 8/2/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Spanky,
Here are some ideas you can try...
1- Add concave to the deck... this is a good way to stiffen up a thin board
2- Add fiberglass to the deck... this will also stiffen the deck and can be done on the top so you will keep your nice veneer showing on the bottom. Can even be done on your deck now (just have to buy new grip tape)
3- Build your board around a core piece of material. Maybe some very thin ply or aircraft grade foam. Maybe even some very thin maple (not completly sure about that one for strength though, haven't tried it yet)
Good luck and post some pix... HR
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On 8/2/2000
spanky
wrote in from
(210.55.nnn.nnn)
hi
i REALY need to get in touch with a New zealand bord builder!!
because i have now made two boards : the first was not worth riding but the second is amazing its 60" long !! 7 (ran out of veneer) layers of maple (i have tryed a new lamanation graning which has 1 cross grain 4 45 angled grained & 2 long grand ) while being strong ( i had it on 12" blocks with me on the mddle & it touching the ground) it is tooooo flopy !!! i was wondering if anyone has any ideas on how to stiffin it ?? i am going to bolt a chanled aluminium stroinger to the botom & use it like raisers but i want something for my next board which will be flat.
any help will be great
Spanky ( long story but it stuck so ??)
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On 8/1/2000 Nick
wrote in from
(203.96.nnn.nnn)
I,ve found a sourse of narrow 1.5mm veneer in NZ.They can sow it up on a machine to get the width I need.Does anyone have any experience with doing this?
Will narrow strips of veneer, sowed together down the middle be strong enough once glued and pressed with a couple of cross plys?
Thanks.
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