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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 8/25/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
sorry...
dech really means "deck"... apparently I am trying to invent a new language! HR
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On 8/25/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Nick,
I would suggest using a jointer to true up all the edges that are to be glued. They are expensive to buy. You may be able to find someone in your area who will let you use theirs. Or possibly a woodshop that will do the work for you. Some high schools have wood shops that may do the work for a few dollars.
Once the pieces are laminated you should run the dech through a planer. Same advice on getting that work done too...
As far as cutting the strips, that should probably be done on a table saw... HR
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On 8/25/2000 nick
wrote in from
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Could anyone please give me some advice/info on preparing the strips of wood for a verticle laminate board. I,d like to try a 60" board, 1/2" thick, and 10.5" wide. I,m going to wrap the whole thing in fibreglass.
What I need to know is how to go about cutting/preparing the strips to the desired size, what tools are required etc.
thanks in advance
Nick
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On 8/24/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
My adjustacave tubeframe,and billet clamp board is coming along freakishly stunningly cool, if i do say so myself 11 hours in my machine shop already put it above what most sane people would consider paying for a deck,i gotta make the lowering bars next,then i'll connect the two middle clamp assemblies to stiffen up the board a little.Oh well, a picture would be a thousand words, in this case three or four pictures might do it.
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On 8/22/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(208.192.nnn.nnn)
Where did my post go?I get 14 ply for 25 bucks which is 24x48,enough for two boards at a True Value hardware in this area 1/2 inch,8 ply is 20 bucks and they were out of 5/8 (could be 11 ply)they're right across ton from me,i bought oak and my first skill saw(which cut some early boards and many transitions,and two by fours) from the same store over 20 years ago!
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On 8/20/2000
rob k
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
what is the average price everybody pays for 11 ply birch? one wood place said they could get it for $41. i checked at home depot to see if they could order it for cheaper and they are going to call me back.
later,
rob
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On 8/20/2000
Patrick
wrote in from
(195.24.nnn.nnn)
Hey Herbn,
can you give me the internet adresses of the Kanoa Kid and Scott?
thanks
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On 8/18/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Hey first timer,
I would suggest using a solid piece for the board your describing. Find some nice hard wood with tight grain. Pick the thickness according to your weight... take your time and have fun... HR
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On 8/17/2000 mr first timer
wrote in from
(24.188.nnn.nnn)
hi,
i read what you told the other guy about their first board, but i want one that is kinda functionable. i was wondering what would be the best type of wood for a easy to make first time board. im planning on something around 52" long and 10" wide. im gonna put good parts on it so i can use the same trucks and wheels for the next board (im thinking r2s, china bones bearings, and krypto 70mms) any suggestion on the wood? i looked around and cant find any plywood with more than 7 plys, should i go solid? thanks for all your help.
mr first timer...
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On 8/17/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
Just checked Hugh's site,real cool,Kanoa and Scotts homemades are particularly interesting to me,How did they clamp the laminate and is any fiberglass involved to keep them from spliting?
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On 8/17/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
I made the crosslinks between the clamps for the two sides of the concave halves,the frame got much stronger,i think the brackets that will hold the flat middle of the board are next.This thing looks straight off a b-2 bomber,even more futuristic than the Stroker deck,can't wait to semicrome the tubing,i need to get a buffing wheel ,to finnish this one off.
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On 8/17/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
James,
Rogeri is right about not going for perfection on the first one... don't rush the job at all. Really take your time on ensuring that the two sides are mirrored immages of each other.
Cut your board slightly larger than your desired size and sand it down by hand... be careful not to remove too much material! Have fun with it! HR
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On 8/17/2000
rogerj
wrote in from
(198.206.nnn.nnn)
For very first attempt, practice with particle board. If you have a router you can use it as a template to transfer shape. Check out scraps at a carpenter, even Home Depot has cheap scrapes of particle board and some hardward plywood. Don't try to go for "perfection" the first go at it.
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On 8/16/2000
James
wrote in from
(63.27.nnn.nnn)
What it the best type of wood to use on longboards ie Baltic, fir etc. This is my first attempt to make a board so any advice is needed
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On 8/16/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
I use acrylic paints,its a little risky you might get watery weak paints that don't work to well,but stick with primary colors and blend them yourself,use wetted/damp paper towels.The weather has been sucking,so i've been gettin work done on my tube frame adjustable concave,its gonna be a three part standing surfaces with adjustable angle and raisable flat.Still very light with 2024 maintubes and a torsion box down the middle around the clamps.
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On 8/15/2000 James
wrote in from
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What is the best way to finish a home made board ie colors and or stains. What do the big manu's use.
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On 8/15/2000
cmc
wrote in from
(207.41.nnn.nnn)
Herbn, save the pics from the camera to your pc as jpegs. You should be able to select the file type when saving. Then email to the site adding the selected pics as attachments.
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On 8/15/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(208.192.nnn.nnn)
How do i contribute pictures to your site,I have some pics,they're on C-200Photo imaging and HP Photo Printing,downloaded from a friends digital camera,on my computer.
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On 8/15/2000 dwake
wrote in from
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I too use the sides of the truck for alingment. It is the best way.
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On 8/15/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Big Steve,
When I align my trucks I start by mesuring the center of my board in sevral places along its length. I then draw a center line down the length of the deck.
If the holes in your base plates are perfectly aligned then you can use a square and ruler to set up your holes to drill. If they are not, then you must center your trucks on the drawn line and mark one set only. Drill the other ones after you have the truck base plate mounted.
Placement of trucks is purely up to how your riding stlye is. Place them closer for easier and more responsive kick turning. Place them farther towards the ends for extra wheel base. It all depends on your style.
Hope this helps... there are probably better ways to do this, but it works for me... HR
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On 8/15/2000 Big Steve
wrote in from
(155.13.nnn.nnn)
No response to my last note. Can anyone share some insight on how
to properly align trucks? Is there a perferred distance to mount from nose or tail?
These boards are general cruising boards 48" long.
Thanks for the help.
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On 8/14/2000 waxfoot
wrote in from
(32.100.nnn.nnn)
sorry about the 2 huge double replies guys - having computer problems
waxfoot
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On 8/14/2000 waxfoot
wrote in from
(32.100.nnn.nnn)
Aloha RooX -
From what I know from the surfboard industry the cloth simply goes under the layer of fiberglass, and they are saturated with resin at the same time. Two reason's on this - depending on what type of resin you are using, some resins don't stick to each other. Laminating resin will stick to laminating resin, but sanding resin has a wax that floats to the top in curing so it cures hard and not tacky and you can sand it without gumming up your sandpaper. Second reason - if you lay each layer up separately, that means more resin, and more weight to your board. Lightness being important in surfboards. You would definitely want to put fiberglass over the patterned cloth as the cloth does not have the strength or durability that the fiberglass does (and, as you would find out if you dripped some on your clothes, makes your clothes quite brittle). For your patterned piece of cloth, thinner (lighter weight?)is better I think, so it is easy for the resin to penetrate and not leave dry spots (and potential de-lam problems) where there was no adhesion to the wood core of your board. You also might want to do a couple of things with the cloth. Pre-washing it would probably be a good idea so any excess dyes wouldn't bleed when you saturated everything with the resin. Also, saturating a test piece of the cloth to see how it is going to react with the resin would probably be a good idea. When adding the catalyst to the resin, you probably want to make sure that you don't add too much and that the resin goes off too quickly. I would imagine that slower is better, so you have the time to make sure that everything is saturated. I would also take the tip from Hugh of compressing everything once you got it all saturated to squeeze the excess resin out and make sure you got a good bond between board, cloth, and fiberglass. When laying everything up I would have both the cloth and fiberglass hang over the edges of your board, as things tend to shrink a bit. Make sure you trim it when evreything has gone off and is stiff enough to not be runny or gummy anymore, but not so hard you need to break out the grinder to trim your edges. Too early and you can pull the fiberglass 'threads' and make a 'run' in the whole thing, and too late and you'll never get your razor blade to cut it. You'll know what I'm talking about when you see it - it's almost 'rubbery' - solid, but not rock hard. Apologies on the length of all this, and hope I'm not repeating too much of the obvious or what you already know - I used to make my own surfboards and all this stuff gives me a charge and I tend to go on forever. Good luck with everything.
waxfoot
ps - (and you thought I was done) Two books that I have found extremely useful in my surfboard building days are "Essential Surfing" by George Orbelian, and "The Ding Repair Scriptures" (can't remember author, but printed in Soquel - near Santa Cruz I think). E.S. is a lot more about surfboards and what makes them tick so to speak, but there is some info on mixing resin and catalyst. You should be able to find the book in the library. I think a more informative (and really well written) book for fiberglass work is the 'Scriptures. Again, it's geared toward surfboard repair, as the title suggests, but there is invaluable info on mixing resins, and the different types of resins and how they work together. I believe I also found this one at the library, and figured it was useful enough to buy my own copy. I think I got them both at a shop in Santa Cruz called Monterey Bay Fiberglass (with locations in So-Cal and.... Oregon? Washington?). The easiest one to find is the 'Scriptures (and is probably the only one you need anyway) as you can find it in just about any surf shop, right next to the ding repair kits. I believe the latest printing has it with a yellow cover with I believe a wizard with a surfboard or something along those lines. It's a relatively thin paperback (only 1/2" or less) and as I recall pretty cheap. Well worth the money. Alright, I'm done for the moment - the keyboard is starting to smoke. ha ha. Good luck and aloha.
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On 8/14/2000 waxfoot
wrote in from
(32.100.nnn.nnn)
Aloha RooX -
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On 8/14/2000 waxfoot
wrote in from
(32.100.nnn.nnn)
Aloha RooX -
From what I know from the surfboard industry the cloth simply goes under the layer of fiberglass, and they are saturated with resin at the same time. Two reason's on this - depending on what type of resin you are using, some resins don't stick to each other. Laminating resin will stick to laminating resin, but sanding resin has a wax that floats to the top in curing so it cures hard and not tacky and you can sand it without gumming up your sandpaper. Second reason - if you lay each layer up separately, that means more resin, and more weight to your board. Lightness being important in surfboards. You would definitely want to put fiberglass over the patterned cloth as the cloth does not have the strength or durability that the fiberglass does (and, as you would find out if you dripped some on your clothes, makes your clothes quite brittle). For your patterned piece of cloth, thinner (lighter weight?)is better I think, so it is easy for the resin to penetrate and not leave dry spots (and potential de-lam problems) where there was no adhesion to the wood core of your board. You also might want to do a couple of things with the cloth. Pre-washing it would probably be a good idea so any excess dyes wouldn't bleed when you saturated everything with the resin. Also, saturating a test piece of the cloth to see how it is going to react with the resin would probably be a good idea. When adding the catalyst to the resin, you probably want to make sure that you don't add too much and that the resin goes off too quickly. I would imagine that slower is better, so you have the time to make sure that everything is saturated. I would also take the tip from Hugh of compressing everything once you got it all saturated to squeeze the excess resin out and make sure you got a good bond between board, cloth, and fiberglass. When laying everything up I would have both the cloth and fiberglass hang over the edges of your board, as things tend to shrink a bit. Make sure you trim it when evreything has gone off and is stiff enough to not be runny or gummy anymore, but not so hard you need to break out the grinder to trim your edges. Too early and you can pull the fiberglass 'threads' and make a 'run' in the whole thing, and too late and you'll never get your razor blade to cut it. You'll know what I'm talking about when you see it - it's almost 'rubbery' - solid, but not rock hard. Apologies on the length of all this, and hope I'm not repeating too much of the obvious or what you already know - I used to make my own surfboards and all this stuff gives me a charge and I tend to go on forever. Good luck with everything.
waxfoot
ps - (and you thought I was done) Two books that I have found extremely useful in my surfboard building days are "Essential Surfing" by George Orbelian, and "The Ding Repair Scriptures" (can't remember author, but printed in Soquel - near Santa Cruz I think). E.S. is a lot more about surfboards and what makes them tick so to speak, but there is some info on mixing resin and catalyst. You should be able to find the book in the library. I think a more informative (and really well written) book for fiberglass work is the 'Scriptures. Again, it's geared toward surfboard repair, as the title suggests, but there is invaluable info on mixing resins, and the different types of resins and how they work together. I believe I also found this one at the library, and figured it was useful enough to buy my own copy. I think I got them both at a shop in Santa Cruz called Monterey Bay Fiberglass (with locations in So-Cal and.... Oregon? Washington?). The easiest one to find is the 'Scriptures (and is probably the only one you need anyway) as you can find it in just about any surf shop, right next to the ding repair kits. I believe the latest printing has it with a yellow cover with I believe a wizard with a surfboard or something along those lines. It's a relatively thin paperback (only 1/2" or less) and as I recall pretty cheap. Well worth the money. Alright, I'm done for the moment - the keyboard is starting to smoke. ha ha. Good luck and aloha.
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