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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 9/3/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Herbn/anyone else,
Any of you guys ever used bisquets to help hold your vertical laminates together? I am thinking about them at the nose and tail for a little added strength... any thoughts? HR
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On 9/3/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(208.192.nnn.nnn)
I think i'm gonna use yellow carpenters glue for the vertical laminations,because the glue doesn't really add strength and the carpenters stuff is usually stonger than the wood (even the oak/maple?)epoxy is just kind of sloppy,hard to clean,and possibly hazardous healthwise?I'm gonna order carbon fiber prepeg .062 rod (prepeg means factory glue soaked,hardened of course) this stuff sounds easy to work with,i think laying it into crossgrain grooves between the 5/16 vertical laminates along with a 5 oz. layer of s glass should make a nice cross grain,most of the grooves will be in the front and back of the board,perhaps some lengthwise carbon stingers top and bottom would look nice against the lighter woods and would add carbon strength/spring and techness.
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On 9/1/2000
rob k
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
i put the first coat of polyurathane on today. i would have to say the board is looking pretty badass. i can't wait untill it is done.
later,
rob
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On 9/1/2000 nev
wrote in from
(12.72.nnn.nnn)
rob,drill the template perfect for the trux,oversize the holes to insert metal sleeves.
this is dropped onto the" board to be",centered on a stringer(if verical laminated),clamped,drilled.bolt the boards together,remove the clamps and it is all sound.
then outline the new board,allowing for wild cutting&routing.
the router is set up with a bullnose bit(for a 1/2 round shaped edge)and ive put the bearing on the shaft of the bit,this then runs off the template, voila board-o perfect-o
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On 9/1/2000 Lono
wrote in from
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HughR has good info on his site. in the links.
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On 9/1/2000
Neil G
wrote in from
(198.169.nnn.nnn)
Has anyone tried doing the laminating? Most people seem to be just using plywood and then soaking/bending it to get any camber or concave. How much pressure do you need to apply to horizontally laminate wood?
Neil
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On 9/1/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
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The glue seams run vertically,as opposed to horizontal plys, a butcher block or fancy cutting board would be vertically laminated.I bought maple last night at Home Depot ,and ash and 1/4 inch oak(for stingers),at True Value(Benjamin Bros). Added to the sitka spruce,this should be a nice variety of wood grains,i wish i could find some nice dark walnut,oh well next time,i'm gonna finnish my clamping frame tonight.
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On 8/31/2000 Blah
wrote in from
(209.244.nnn.nnn)
Okay, I must ask. What exactly is vertical lamination (as Fibreflex says in the ads)?
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On 8/31/2000
rob k
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
got some acrylic paint and did one side. it looks cool. it has like a beach bleach look. it will probably smooth out when i put the polyurathane on it. thanks for the tip herbn.
later,
rob
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On 8/31/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
I won't be using polyester resin, i got thes stuff called polyepoxy resin that supposedly hardens in a two step process and is considerably stronger,i have long fiber S-glass also (30% stronger 15% stiffer)if it comes out good I'll get carried away and add prepeg carbon rod .067 diameter, i have .062 kerf saw blades, so all i have to do is ripcut light grooves in the deck surface and lightly coat the carbon,it'll press in ,and dry,sand and done, no clamps even necessary.Aircraft Spruce . Com is a very dangerous cataloge for a homebuilder.
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On 8/31/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
One thing I always thought looked cool was colored glass for laminates. Doesn't add near as much strength as another layer of wood, but does look good.
Some guys are using a mono-directional composite cloth that is reported to add more strength than a layer of veneer. I have never tried it myself...
I have found using glass and standard poly resin as an internal layer doesn't give much bang for the buck... HR
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On 8/31/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
First ,the surface of my laminates probabely won't be surfaced with a powerplaner,so the glass/epoxy will fill gaps,slight as they might be. Second , some impact resistance. I know its not optimum for tension, but if i can find a dark ply for the middle i'll throw that in too(taperkick DH board:)
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On 8/31/2000
Freepup
wrote in from
(207.81.nnn.nnn)
I've just stumbled on this board as a resource. I'm looking to make my own longboards and i need a bit of advice.
1. What is a good length for a cruising (not necessarily downhill) longboard for a guy who's 6'2", 220, if i use 11 ply Baltic Birch? I was thinking around 44"
2. What would be "standard" truck widths for this kind of cruising?
3. Assuming I don't want to make "cut-outs" above the wheels, how does one create those graded wheel wells/divots (excuse my use of terminology) in the board above the wheel?
Thanks for all your help. Please feel free to post replies here or in my e-mail, freepup@hotmail com.
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On 8/31/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Herbn, On your laminate sheets... what are you hoping to accomplish with the glass layers in the deck? As opposed to top and bottom... HR
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On 8/31/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
Pearl paint is a source around here, try any good art store. I just cut the sitka spruce up for my vertical lamination attempt,that stuff is perfect one tiny flaw in one strip,nearly flawless very straight grain,i got a carbide saw blade that is speced as making smooth cuts in wood. The top and bottom finnish of the wood is the glued edge so it should be fine, no surface planing needed, i gotta find some nice harder woods for variety,I'm making two sheets of vertical laminates and put fiberglass between them and top and bottom,should be nice,i hope.
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On 8/31/2000
rob k
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
where would somebody find acrylic artist's paint? would it be at like kelly more, or ben franklins, etc.?
later,
rob
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On 8/31/2000 waxfoot
wrote in from
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RojerJ - A bro of mine used to make skateboards and had a machinist friend of his make a killer jig for drilling holes. As I recall it was a 1" block of aluminum, with hardened steel inserts (I think) just like you were thinking. Then adjustment clamps that, when tightened down, would center the pattern on the board perfectly (assuming you made your board straight). I'll have to try and get ahold of him and see if he'll either send me a drawing or sell it to me. I'll bet Hugh would be interested too.... Didn't Herbn mention something about being a machinist...? Perhaps somebody else....
aloha
waxfoot
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On 8/30/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
Just had an idea(oh no not again:0) .I think Hugh is gonna like this one,It's for through mounting trucks.If you have a board thats done,either homemade or not, bolt the metal or wood lowering plates on FIRST make sure they're big enough,it doesn't really matter if they're perfectly straight,then drill through the existing holes in the board,which puts mounting holes in the lowering plates about as accurate as the original holes in the board,now remove lowering plates mark them or make them different enough so they can't be mixed up,or bolted on backwards or upsidedown and cut away the part of the board that the trucks were bolted to. There you go,you could screw it up but it's tough.
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On 8/30/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(208.192.nnn.nnn)
Use Acrylic artist paint,and moist and dry paper towels to rub and blend the colors,way cheap too.
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On 8/30/2000
rob k
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
to solve the problem of the angled cut, i cut the whol board in one direction. this way if it is off, it will be hard to tell once it is routed and sanded. the next one i did turned out nice. this is going to be the one i keep for myself. i marked the truck holes and have to drill them today. does anybody know what the average price is on the red, green, blue stain at homedepot?
later,
rob
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On 8/29/2000
rogerj
wrote in from
(198.206.nnn.nnn)
Anyone make, or know where to get a drilling jig?
I'm thinking of a 1" thick block of aluminum with hardened steel inserts to drill mounting holes perfect every time.
What do the production shops use?
rogerj
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On 8/29/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Rob k,
On your next deck you will want to cut your deck out slightly larger than your stencil. If you have anything but the top-notch jigsaws, the blade will cant to one side. So cut large, then shape with a block and paper to the desired size.
I have experienced the same problem myself... HR
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On 8/28/2000
rob k
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
got my wood today. traced my stencil, and started cutting with my jig saw. i didn't notice it for a while, but the bottom of the saw was tilted, and cutting the wood at a slant.so, no part of my board is cut at a slant. i will re cut it, but it won't be perfect. i'll probably just sell it, and nobody will know. thats how making a first board goes though. i think i fixed the problem. i put loc-tite on the screw that holds the bottom from tilting, and tightened it down a lot. i'll try again tomarrow.
later,
rob
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On 8/28/2000
tony
wrote in from
(216.160.nnn.nnn)
I am preparing to make some decks. I am going to use bending and laminating tech developed from making return boomerangs, putting precise bends in thin plywood and then reinforce with carbon fiber, kevlar, or fiberglass. I was considering using the same ultra-thin plywood. Ultra-thin is Finnish Birch and comes in range 2.0 mm 3 ply, 3.0 mm 5 ply, all the way to 6.0 mm (aprox 1/4") 12 ply. Has anyone used this for decks? If so, how did it turn out?
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On 8/27/2000
DOOBIE
wrote in from
(63.252.nnn.nnn)
my wood shop teacher is gonna let me make a longboard. it'll be coool, I was thinking of cutting strips of maple and birch(kinda getting a striped pattern going) going lengthwise and glue them. tell me what you think.
DOOBIE
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