|
|
|
| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
|
| Topic |
Home Made Boards |
|
|
|
On 9/25/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Made (and broke) a pretty cool design today. Actually my brother Rooney's design.
Top of deck aluminum rail (spline) that randal longboard trucks mount on through the deck. Fairly low CG, although not quite as low as a full top mount. This is closer to a flush mount (misses as a true flush by 0.125"...) The rail is what actually mounts to the board.
Poor choice of wood (Paul and I told you so... don't listen to those wood guys, what do they know) So never, never, and I mean never use Poplar for a skate deck!
We will be re-shaping a deck out of maple or oak sometime this week. I have a few pix up on my site that show the building process (just ignore the wood being used!) Off of the NCDSA links page... HR
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 9/25/2000 Nick
wrote in from
(203.96.nnn.nnn)
Looking at pics of the G&S kicktail I noticed there are lines across where the tail bends up. Could it be they have cut 3 swallow triangler slits out across the length of the board, filled with epoxy, and bent up into a kick before laminating with fibreglass/epoxy? Could be a way to get kicks on vert lam boards, then again could be a weak spot.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 9/23/2000 nick
wrote in from
(203.96.nnn.nnn)
Bill, i,ve been researching vacuum bagging lately as i,ve been having problems with wrinkles in the bottom layer of my fibreglass laminate boards. I,m making cambered boards which relax a little when I take them out the press. I then glass each side and put back in the press, however this re-bending seems to wrinkle the bottom layer of glass.
Has anyone else experienced this? I suppose I could make a second less curved press for the glassing, but I recon vacuum bagging may be the go. It supposedly gets rid of all air bubbles, and makes a great laminate with a smooth finish and allows you to get to about a 50/50 resin to cloth ratio(by weight) ensureing maximum strengh without excess weight.
I,ve found an on line sight with instructions for a vacuum bagging system made from an old fridge(the cheap little sucker) and supposedly you can use rubbish bags. I believe some sort of breather cloth is needed to soak up excess resin and allow air bubbles to escape.I think peel ply is used as a release sheet.
Could anyone add to this/correct me if i,m mistaken on anything etc.
Nick
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 9/22/2000
MisterBill
wrote in from
(158.252.nnn.nnn)
Sorry Hugh, I am not the Bill for whom you seek. However, if you were to pick my brain you would find some ooey-gooey stuff inside.
Good Questions are welcomed anytime, Good answers are not "garaunteed," on what I don't know I can ask around. I have great friends working on the cutting edge of carbon fiber technology that are generous with their experience.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 9/22/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Mr. Bill,
Is this Bill A. ? Of the stars and stripes fame? I know its a long shot... If it is, give me a call man... I am very close to needing to pick your brain... HR
If it is you, sorry I've been out of touch, but I figure no new is good news!!!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 9/21/2000
MisterBill
wrote in from
(158.252.nnn.nnn)
Has anyone heard of using a vaccuum bag to get full permeation when using resin/glass and epoxy on wood. I know that it is used frequently in the lay-up of carbon fiber. A heavy poly bag lined with mold release wax should allow you to let the resins "go off" and then peel off the bag. Trim the excess as you normally would. There is no need for the vaccuum bag after the resin "goes off". This has been a great technique for carbon fiber ( with a few changes, like a bake in the oven and no trimming) and has worked time and again.
Bill
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 9/21/2000 Nick
wrote in from
(203.96.nnn.nnn)
Up until now I,ve only used wooden moulds to get 2-dimensional curves.
I,m thinking of using concrete with some re-inforcing scrap steel, moulded inside a plywood box.
Does anyone have any ideas on how to cast the female mould?
I,m thinking of making a male to cast the female out of wood and fibreglass, but not quite sure how I should go about this.Any ideas would be appriecated.
Herbn, I,ve heard of guys using epoxy in a double lay up. First the two surfaces to be joined are coated in a thin layer, much of which impregnates/fills/soaks/grabs the wood. then while still not cured, a thicker layer of epoxy with some collidal silica is added and the pieces are put together and clamped. This supposedly stops too much glue been absorbed by the wood resulting in a starved joint.
Nick
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 9/21/2000 Nick
wrote in from
(203.96.nnn.nnn)
Paul,
the uni-directional cloth i use has nylon cross fibres to hold it all together which do not disolve with resin. (i wish they would cause they leave wonky lines across my boards)
Has anyone tried making a board with narrow veneer which must be joined/taped to get the required width?
This is all I can find in NZ, would it be ok with a cross ply and some fibreglass bi-directional cloth each side?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 9/21/2000 Paul d.
wrote in from
(154.5.nnn.nnn)
Using warped or curved solids shouldn't be a problem in a vert lam deck deck. Cause even the stiffest strips will straight up when clamped. When I say clamped I mean use every one in the shop that fits.
Anything out of place gets planed down any way when the glueing is done. As for good glue not doing its job, it could the wood is not
cured properly and not oils.
About glass over cloth: does nylon work or will it melt in contact with the epoxy?
is cotton better or is there a best type of cloth?
Would velum paper (drafting paper not mylar) work instead of rice paper ?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 9/21/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
It really is not really wood type specific,i almost have them all done,i think its pressure in general or pressure points from slightly bowed wood strips,maybe i need to get a straight cutting tool for my shaper,use it as a planer.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 9/21/2000 nev
wrote in from
(12.72.nnn.nnn)
Herbn,
what woods are you having trouble with?ive found with some woods that you have to use acetone(or similar) on the strips first,this gets rid of the oils,i was also using the urea-formaldahide glues
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 9/19/2000 Nick
wrote in from
(203.96.nnn.nnn)
When using epoxy to laminate, I,ve heard of adding q-cell or some other sort of thicknessing compound to make a thick paste. Have not tried this yet, waiting until I run out of multibond. Has anyone had any experience with this?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 9/19/2000 Nick
wrote in from
(203.96.nnn.nnn)
Been trying to find rice paper with no luck so far, its amazing how hard it is to find things in NZ. Would it be the same stuff used in asian resturants? A local surfboard shaper said he screenprints onto tissue paper and could get some things done for me, but really I want to do it all myself. Would it be possible to print off a computer printer onto tissue paper, perhaps if the leading edge was glued to a sheet of regular paper? Maybey surface tissue fibreglass cloth might work?
Nick
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 9/19/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
Been having trouble withepoxy gluing wood,i think it's either over clamping or just not the right glue,i'm gonna switch to sipler "titebond" carpenters glue and save the epoxy for the glass.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 9/18/2000 Nick
wrote in from
(203.96.nnn.nnn)
How would adding camber or rocker to a flat board affect its performance, flex, turning etc
cheers
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 9/17/2000
waxfoot
wrote in from
(63.10.nnn.nnn)
Glen - I'm interested in using a printer to put graphics onto rice paper - I always used to screen print them. I'm assuming you're just using a normal bubble-jet type or related printer. Are you using any special kind of ink? I'm assuming you've played around with it enough to find out which inks run when they come in contact with resin....
mahalo
waxfoot
Nick - rice paper, like Glen mentions, is the same exact method that they use to put sponsor/shaper/board company logos on surfboards. The rice paper laminate is put down on the shaped board, and the glass is layed on top. The resin can easily soak through the rice paper so adhesion between fiberglass and board is complete, and it has the added benefit of becoming clear when saturated. On an old, yellowed board you can sometimes see the outline of the laminate underneath the glass. Regarding where to get this magical rice paper I've tried two places. First I tried an art store - sure enough they had some, but it was really fibery and I had problems with ink running the fibers. Second try - I went to Fiberglass Santa Cruz and talked to the owner about the laminates. Sure enough, he had some of the *right* rice paper and sold me a sheet. Bingo - it worked like a charm. I screenprinted my logo onto it, like I think they usually do. So my advice is to go to your local surfboard factory and ask very very nicely. Usually they try to squeeze as many logos as they can onto one sheet of paper, but there sometimes are big enough scraps that you could use for a skateboard. They might even have some blank sheets, or be able to tell you who does their screenprinting for them and you can then talk to them. Notice I said surfboard factory as opposed to shop. The retail shop is unlikely to have the materials, unless you go to a shop where the factory is connected to the retail shop. Good luck!
waxfoot
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 9/17/2000
Ryan M
wrote in from
(165.236.nnn.nnn)
I was just thinking reaaaly hard about how much some decks could really use more concave, and how to go about changing their rather flat situation.
1)Is there an easy way to press concave? Heat, steam?
2)What about adding wood strips drilled to the TOP of the deck, like plastic rails only tapered more? I'm guessing that it would give enough extra leverage there, kinda like old block kicktails like sea breeze...Thanks!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 9/17/2000 Nick
wrote in from
(203.96.nnn.nnn)
Glen, what exactly is the rice paper usually used for and how and where is it sold. Is it like big sheets of tobacoo paper or somthing?
Nick.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 9/17/2000 Glen
wrote in from
(216.102.nnn.nnn)
For clear graphic transfers-use your computer to print your graphic on rice paper and then use resin to laminate it in. The rice paper turns clear in the resin and all you have left is a nice graphic.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 9/17/2000
Glick84
wrote in from
(144.92.nnn.nnn)
Hi!
Jack, There are so many options for longboards that you would need to be a little more specific before we could help you much. You should check out HR's board building site at:
http://www.hugh308.homestead.com/
Also, i had an idea for how to put graphics on boards without having to do a screen print, of by hand. ( i suck at painting by hand) You know the iron on t-shirt transfer things? Well, if you've every used them you know that you iron them on and then pull the white backing off. Would it work to print the graphic, and without ironing it peel off the back and lay it between layers of fiberglass or polyurathane? I think it might go pretty clear. I'll have to try it and see how it works. If any of you have a comment about it, please post a message or e-mial me!
-jon
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 9/15/2000
jack (Paris.)
wrote in from
(164.138.nnn.nnn)
i'd like to know the bases to make my own longboard!
Does any of you guys can help me?About trucks,wood,wheels...
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 9/15/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(208.192.nnn.nnn)
Reglued my top sheet,it worked fine did a test groove and inlay with the carbon,also cool,by preshaping one of my laminated sheets i can save on glue,glass ect and never trim more than 5/16 thick wood with my router.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 9/14/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
My experience with carbon is less than a week old,i'm gonna do a test on some scrap wood,before i cut grooves in my edgeglued deck material.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 9/14/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
Well the second sheet is pressed,for some reason it also came up with a dry seam ,actually two,not a big deal now that i've experienced this before,just mix up a little more epoxy rewet the seams put the parts back in the mold and press just tight enough to make close seams.The best way to spread glue even and smooth is to be wearing latex gloves and use your fingers evenly glue both sides of each strip,also on the first pressing i tried to spread the glue on all the edges at once outside the mold,it got a little hectic,from now on i'll just take the strips out of the mold one at a time coat edges with glue ,slide them back in,i used less than 32 grams of epoxy(had some left),the top sheet seems much stronger side to side,with no spruce,even though the lay-up of the laminates is somwhat different,i think i'll cut a little off the end and glue a bit on the other end of the top sheet just so none of the seams line-up exactly,the sheets are pretty much nice and flat,one layer kevlar between sheets should do it.So;steps to completion;reglue dry seams,belt sand, cut grooves for carbon stingers,mark and drill holes(outer ones only)preshape one sheet,make captive sleeves for outer bolt holes,final gluing(carbon stingers,top,middle,and bottom,kevlar middle,S glass top+bottom)yeah ,it's a "little" out of control,all it's gonna do is roll down hills,but man will it be cool!I've even considered looking up a place to ornamental vineer inlays,like a wavey strip of exotic woods,like Rodney Jesse's custom Brewer,am i the only one that remembers that?:)I've seen the Skateboarder covers on web sites, how can we get the entire mags,i wanna revisit my missing pages:?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 9/14/2000 tony
wrote in from
(63.226.nnn.nnn)
Herbn, when you said that it came on a spool I understood. What you have is not prepreg rod, but what we called "carbon graphite yarn tow" Depending upon the size 3 to 12 thousand carbon fibers have been bound with an epoxy compatable material to make it easier to handle and work with. If you have 12k, it is difficult to throughly saturate with resin but can be done, just give it extra attention. If you have 6k, it is easy to work with, it wets out nice.
Waxfoot, and other interested glassers. Monteray Bay Fiberglass in Santa Cruz was sold in 1997?. At that time they changed the name of the MBF store in Bingen Washington to Fiberglass Supply. Bingen is across the Columbia River from Hood River, Oregon and they supply all of the windsurfer builders there. Same cool folks though. The phone number is 509 493 3464. Give them a ring if you need supplies or the texts we were discussing. I am not sure if they have a web site. I have some experience with exotic laminates and will help out as I can.
|
|
|
|
|
