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| Truck Reviews (15215 Posts)
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Offsets for the 1000th time
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On 2/12/2007
Geezer-X
wrote in from
United States
(65.127.nnn.nnn)
Offsets are complete and utter bunk, despite whatever success people may have had on them.
The "Idea" is that relocating the centerline of the axle with the axis of rotation of the hanger relative to the kingpin will somehow add traction due to the reduction of the translational component of the hangers motion.
In reality, the offset flexes which loads the insides of the wheels. This is perceived as greater grip. Look at the degree and speed at which the wheels on an offset cone, and that will demonstrate everything to verify this.
The greatest and most predictable grip that can be extracted from a pair of slalom type skateboard wheels is done by holding the wheels as rigidly as possible aligned to one another; coradial and colinear.
That's not an opinion or conjecture, it's a fact.
There's a couple trucks that get this right. #1, the PVD Ground Control truck. Stiffest, straightest truck ever made. Absolutely nothing is more confidence inspiring than a PVD. Aspects of the design are quirky, but for grip it's unrivaled. The SplitFire is excellent. The Radikal rear w/o the trailing arms is very good. TTC-3TC-XTC, all good. Any conventional truck with a good axle and spacers is good.
Offsets flex. All of them. The prevailing mindset remains that they're somehow an advantage, but the reality is that while some are better than others, anything non-offset other than a bone-stock RTS is likely better.
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offset's effect on trucks
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On 2/11/2007 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
i think the effect of offset on a skateboard truck is the opposite of what offset does to a bicycle fork,because of the the way the steering angle is, relative to the ground. A very curved or very offset bike fork has a stabilizing ,return to center, action. SO, a raked skateboard truck should have a destabilizing quickening effect on steering. There are other factors that may increase or minimize this effect. Offsets that place the axle on either side of the bushings and more inline with the steering axis will stabilize and reduce the amount of steering in that truck, this will probabely increase the apparent traction of the wheels mounted on that truck,because when they steer less the wheels are subjected to a lower amount of sideways load.
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imho
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On 2/9/2007 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
i otta remember to use that, maybe i should morph it into imnho. If turniness is the ability to carve a small arc then a slow turning raio with a tremendous amount of lien angle very loose or maybe at the very extremes a very slow turning truck with an alternate bushing(centering tension)system like maybe those carve trucks with springs,or a torsion(twisting) bushing system or even a stroker system,i like them probabely because they're complicated.
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Having your cake without Eating It
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On 2/8/2007 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.69.nnn.nnn)
"Turniness" has two definitions imho;
One is steering action or 'lean-to-arc' ratio. This requires increasing the truck angle (or wedging) to gain a tighter arc for a given amount of lean.
The other definitions of 'turniness' might be in how easy it is (resistance) to initiate a turn. That's usually in the realm of Bushing selection and/or truck kingpin tension.
I've run boards that're 'buttonned down tight' by using stiffer bushings, yet have 'turny' truck set-ups, on up into the mid-50s. (this would usually be a Slalom-ish set-up with stiffer bushings; Wedged up front, dewedged at the rear) The trick there is simply not to 'tip' too deep into a turn.
I've also run boards that are set-up fairly loose (easy to tip into a turn), but are using a stable geometry (dewedged trucks, or trucks with 'stable' geometry angles to begin with), and that kind of set-up can be run into the mid-40's before the wobs come into play. No 'tight' arcs per say, but manuverable and fluid at all but the 'really scary fast' speeds. Best used on longer wheelbased boards.
Herbn's right on about this; It's tough to have both stability and turniness, even with drop-thru's (though a lower CG does help). You've kinda got to know what your style preference is here. If you're into a surfy flowing kind of turn, then use a longer wheelbase, medium bushings, a front wedge, maybe only a hint of dewedge at the rear, but don't expect to bomb straight at terminal velocity.However, slides are way easier on a board that's more even in steering input front/rear, and imho, looser trucks let you lean deeper into setting up for a slide.
If you're doing snappy, technical turns, but want more stability, pick a stiffer bushing set, more wedge up front, and dewedge the rear. That'll 'point+shoot' turns, not wobble as easily, and bomb hills if you know how to subtly shift your weight to the rear a bit. Still, don't expect to be able to to tight turns at speed. But you'll at least be able to do predictable turns at speed. Having the steering bias upfront does mean that you've got to really pay attention to the steering feel of those front wheels. If they start loosing traction, respect that and back off the tightness of your intended line. Let the rear wheels help control your speed by letting them 'drift' a little (which, btw, takes some practice).
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stable and turny
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On 2/8/2007 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
so you want your cake and eat it too,if you wedge the front and "dewedge" the back you may sort of have this.when driving turns with your weight aggressively forward the quick steering wedged front truck may be turny enough for you in cruising mode things may be kind of stabile,it's all sort of relative and depends on your technique. If you did a drop through and wedged both trucks, the lowness would give stability,but the quicker turning truck angle would make things react quicker,stabile and turny,nothing is gonna give you the best of everything
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angel
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On 2/8/2007
nolam
wrote in from
Sweden
(83.226.nnn.nnn)
I have this evo...landyachtz..and have 45 and 40 degree baseplates.. 200 mm hangers.. do I have to wedge or dewedge to make it a stable yet turny ride?
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Seismics/Parks
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On 2/6/2007 Chuck Gill
wrote in from
United States
(192.249.nnn.nnn)
My hangers don't see much coping time (I'm old, I mostly just carve at speed), but I suspect they would hold up very well on metal. The few times I've hit coping haven't seemed to register on the hangers. Which brings up another point...my park riding is more about carve than kickturn these days, and this is why ride Seismics. Otherwise any truck would do...
I initially rode a 45° front & rear set-up. It turned spectacularly but was twitchy at higher speeds. Going 30° rear sacrificed little in the way of maneuverability but made the board feel more stable, as well as more like my slalom set-ups. I reckon it's all a matter of what you are used to. Personally if faced with two 45° trucks I would wedge the front and dewedge the back. Do what feels right to you...
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Seismic Trucks for skateparks
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On 2/5/2007
Blah
wrote in from
United States
(72.197.nnn.nnn)
Hey Chuck, how have you found the Seismic hangars hold up to grinds on metal coping? And is it really necessary to use different pivot angles for front and rear? I only have two 45 degree baseplates, but I have two sets of springs: extra light yellow and light red.
Thanks.
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Seismic Trucks, Park Riding
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On 2/5/2007 Chuck Gill
wrote in from
United States
(192.249.nnn.nnn)
I use Seismics on my park board. Love 'em. 45° front, 30° rear, both wedged. Stable at park speeds, but can turn on a dime (once you get the right springs for your weight/style/etc). I am definitely a minority opinion on this, though.
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Santana
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On 2/5/2007 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.69.nnn.nnn)
I used the 'search' function here, typed in Santana under 'trucks'. Found an old ad picture.This isn't the older, three-holed baseplate model, so it's from '77? Using cut+paste, I doubt the photo will come out, so you'll want to use the "search" for yourself.
On 6/25/2004 Darren wrote in from 62.173.xxx.xxx:
Found this ad last night and look which NCDSA regular features in it.. Hope this don't f#@! up the page formatting! Sorry if it does but it is way cool.. Enjoy Arab!
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trucks
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On 2/4/2007
wearvans
wrote in from
United States
(206.135.nnn.nnn)
mid 70s or late 70s custom signature santana trucks
any pics?
i heard they're floating around some where recently
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Seismic Trucks for skateparks
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On 2/4/2007
Blah
wrote in from
United States
(72.197.nnn.nnn)
Does anyone use Seismic trucks for park riding? I am thinking about trying out some 45 degree 155mm in the park. Also, is it possible to buy replacement hangers for Seismics if I wear them out through grinding?
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180's vs 150's
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On 2/4/2007 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
essentially,180's are perhaps a bit better for going downhill a bit more leverage and a bit slower turning stability and looseness together. 150's are a bit better for level pushing, wheels don't stick out as far,,,, that's about it decide how much of which type of riding you do and/or how important those aspects are,i think 180's sell better in most places.
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150 vs. 180
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On 2/4/2007
Adam
wrote in from
United States
(144.89.nnn.nnn)
Question regarding randals: i have a krown pintail 43" and the stock trucks turn horribly. i want my board to turn on a dime, and i'm pretty much set on getting randals, but i'm not sure if i should get the 150mm or 180mm ones. advice?
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Radikal Bushings
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On 2/3/2007
Eddy Texas Outlaws
wrote in from
United States
(70.115.nnn.nnn)
I have been experimenting more and more with shaving my Radikal Bushings. The trucks react totally different. Any comments, secrets, pics. Come on bros, I have seen some of your set ups. Your Amigo Eddy Texas Outlaws.
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bending axles
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On 2/2/2007
jawes
wrote in from
Sweden
(83.226.nnn.nnn)
yes..they will, after 10 minutes of hard riding.
knock out your old axles...make the hole a little bigger...buy a piece of steel..make your own axles.
or buy my jimz trucks.
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bending axels?
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On 2/1/2007 randal
wrote in from
United States
(69.149.nnn.nnn)
I like rideing huge wheels especaly the abec 11 97mm flywheels. I am useing 10mm axel trucks right now but i like the randl dh trucks better will the randl dh trucks's axels be bent by thease huge wheels?
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PSR - thanks for the HISstory Lesson
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On 1/29/2007
Chris Yandall
wrote in from
United States
(70.167.nnn.nnn)
... but that and a dime might get you a cup of coffee. :D
Love the skate energy pumping thru Adam and the Fish :D
"This aint no disco, this aint no party, this aint no fooling around" - Talking Heads
Skateboarding is an evolutionary feat of folly with definitions yet to be coined. Make it be what it's supposed to be and nothing more or less! And most of all, keep the dialogue going!
cYa
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splitfires
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On 1/29/2007
joseph
wrote in from
Australia
(58.166.nnn.nnn)
thats it the bishings were not flush when i set the things up they where sitting up about 3 millimetres on one side so that'd be it. didnt even know the pivot balls where adjustable. need an instruction manual to go with these trucks for people like me with simple minds (or just lack of thought......)
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splitpivot lock nut
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On 1/29/2007
WAX
wrote in from
United States
(67.164.nnn.nnn)
I dont locktite any of steel pivot balls in, just set the depth so when the hangar sits tight in the pivot cup and the hangar is sitting on the bushing you plan on using the bushing hole should be flush with the kingpin hole...once thats lined up grab a 9/16 wrench and crank the Jam nut tight....I have several splits front and rear and they dont loosen up as long as you crank the nut down....
If you locktite them in and want to switch your hangar to a different baseplate it could be a problem, and we made them with that system to make them compatable with the differences in the individual baseplates...
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lock tite
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On 1/29/2007 joseph
wrote in from
Australia
(58.166.nnn.nnn)
thanks for the replys i'll get some when i actually get some money. wallets still recovering from the board and trucks.
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splitfire
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On 1/29/2007
Rick S
wrote in from
United States
(66.32.nnn.nnn)
Try cleaning the threads and adding some blue (removable) locktite. That was the only way I could keep the lock nut tight.
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SPLITFIRE PIVOTS
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On 1/29/2007
A-Drain
wrote in from
Australia
(60.231.nnn.nnn)
Joseph,
the amount of pivot thread will vary depending on the baseplate. Just make sure the pivot is tight in the baseplate pivot cup and the locknut is done up tight against the hanger to lock the pivot in place.
Cheers
A-Drain
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splitfires
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On 1/28/2007 joseph
wrote in from
Australia
(220.237.nnn.nnn)
so are you meant to see any of the threaded rod or should the hanger almost go to the pivot cup? sorry i'm new to the complicated trucks. used to indys and randalls.
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split ball
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On 1/28/2007
sc
wrote in from
United States
(68.99.nnn.nnn)
It's a lock nut. Adjust the pivot ball post to the proper length, then tighten the lock nut. Make sure and tighten if up again if it loosens. For that matter, if it loosens, then you probably need to adjust the pivot ball post again. Best to just make sure it stays tight.
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