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| Truck Reviews (15215 Posts)
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revenge
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On 3/14/2007
hc
wrote in from
United States
(168.149.nnn.nnn)
nick, the two trucks rides quite different.
Revenge is a torsion design that offers very tight turning radius, loose resistence and probably unstable at speed.
I tested one a while back, felt quite like my exkate with the bushings shaved to a cylindrical shape (vs a barrel).
Revenge owners, are these trucks adjustable in resistence?
no mention of this on their site.
also, any spare parts offered?
http://www.revengetrucks.com/
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HELP!
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On 3/14/2007
Nick
wrote in from
United States
(128.82.nnn.nnn)
Hey,
I'm kind of new @ this whole longboard-skateboard thing. Now that I have entered the concrete jungle I've bought a longboard. So my question is what trucks are better Revenge Type I or Seismic Trucks?
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Truck worth buying
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On 3/11/2007 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.69.nnn.nnn)
"Machinist", glad you noticed my post. I work at Hypertherm, making the nozzles for plasma cutters on Miyano Abx and Bx six-axis lathes. Your point on investment Vs. production is absolutely valid. Someone will inevitably take a good hard look at how Trucks can be made that are not too crazy in the costs of the production cycle, and make an affordable but better truck. It going to happen. Right now, we've got several 'one off' or 'high end' shops putting blood, sweat, and way too much machine-time into making great trucks for racing in both Downhill and Slalom. The idea is out there. The concepts are fairly clear (Herbn's Stroker-one-off being unclear to those who don't think that far outside of the box) as to what works and why. The big questions are; Why build Skateboard trucks now the way Rollerskates were made in 1930's? ; Why not source out the better quality parts to begin with? ; And, Will that next leap in truck production and quality be done here, in the U.S., or will it too go to China?
It's up to the American Skateboard Industry to decide whether U.S. ideas like Skateboarding stay, or whether they let the initiative go, and hand yet another market niche over to China. The moment is slipping away...
Oh, and $30/truck is just a ballpark figure. Even though I'm poor (just getting in above the poverty line), I'd pay a bit more for good solid fast truck, and trust me, I have (but didn't really get my money's worth). I like what I see from the small producers now in that high-end range, I just can't afford to buy the stuff.
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A quality production truck is it possible?
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On 3/10/2007 The Machinist
wrote in from
Canada
(24.71.nnn.nnn)
I noticed someone's post below stating that a good truck must available for 30 dollars a truck. Right now there isnt really anything on the market that is a professional product as far as standard machine design, or manufacturing go.
Most cast trucks are sand cast, made of 356 casting alloy, have axles made of crappy alloys that are rediculously crooked in the hanger because of extremely poor practices. I belive a truck could be produced that blows the rest of the market out of the water if someone really looked into it.
Axle. First off choose a good material, something tough, stainless and strong. Use half inch rod so you can cast it into place without bending due to shrinkage/poor pattern design(less secondary opps). Shoulder the axle down to 10mm, then to 3/8 of an inch where you cut the threads (so the flat on the nut is actualy on the bearings inner race) Make sure that the shoulder isnt square like a jim Z, a ten thou of an inch radius at the shoulder will increase a shafts strength by 30%. Match the radius to the smallest radius on a bearings inner race you can find (1/32 of an inch) To secure the axle in the casting, make sure its rediculously clean and put two 1/8 deep by 1/2 wide ball nose slots accross the axle. (you could even align the slots with the angle of the baseplate so the axle profile at those parts takes the stress of an impact better) And last but not least gun drill a 6mm hole through the axle, the outside 20% of a shaft does 80% of the work, saves money on shipping and makes the heavy axle lighter. *you could even get a custom extrusion done for the axle material.
Castings. The problems with current sand castings are many. Start with the alloy selection, 356 is the most common aluminum casting alloy in skateboarding but also non-load bearing peices such as transmission cases, pump housings, and countless other cheap products. Go with something with twice the strength in every way (fatigue limit, shear, tensile) and higher machinability and weldability, like ADC12, ADC10 Its a bit more expensive but in volume you can get it for the same price, find a foundry already using it in high volumes. Pattern design right now isnt very good, but sand casting sucks anyway. Go with a high pressure die casting also known as squeeze casting. Very low porosity and good grain structure is easily acheived as well as a super good surface finish out of the die. (easy secondary opps such as coating, barrel finishing) The parts would be rediculously strong and cheap in volume.
Baseplates, idealy you cast all of the holes right into it, fairly easy but even better as a forged part, might take 3 hits and you have the world strongest baseplate. But thats very expensive for the dies to be made. However it is possible with squeeze casting. All your holes would be in the right spots and you dont have to worry about referancing off a casting and drilling it.
Heat treating/stress releaving. There are a few options to ensure that the part is indestructable/properly made, You could start by building your dies properly to put in/ take the stresses out of the part where you want to, and second a post cast heat treat to get rid of residual stresses in the part.
Now here is why no one has done it. How many skaters have the 50 plus grand it costs to get all the dies and tooling done to produce a quality product at a price skaters are willing to pay. No one i know. But after all the tooling was in place you could fire off a set of trucks for around , including hardware, 9 dollars american if you did runs of 5000 sets plus.
And there it is a decent downhill truck accurate and stronger than anything out there, machined or not, and it could retail for between 60 and 80 USD a set depending how eager you were to pay off the tooling haha. Almost everything else in the world is manufactured properly, Why not skateboard parts? Cause were all cheap bastards!!!!
The Machinist
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grizz
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On 3/10/2007 malcolm
wrote in from
Canada
(24.80.nnn.nnn)
grizzlies are good stuff. obviously not high end like the smokies... just make sure you get an extra set of the 10mm bearings incase you lose or break one
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Grizzlys
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On 3/8/2007 Dancin'Dan
wrote in from
United States
(67.40.nnn.nnn)
Has anybody ridden on the Landy Grizzlys? I've read some stuff about the Smokeys, but not the Grizzly. Opinions?
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Re: Double Deck
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On 3/8/2007 8
wrote in from
Canada
(70.67.nnn.nnn)
Click here for link
Interesting. I like the junk look. Sometimes less is more.
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Double Deck 105's - Giammarco
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On 3/3/2007
Raymondo
wrote in from
Switzerland
(62.203.nnn.nnn)
Have a lot at that topic on slalomskateboarder.com :
http://www_slalomskateboarder_com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=1238&highlight=luca+truck
rmn
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Luca's trucks
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On 3/2/2007
cam
wrote in from
Australia
(220.233.nnn.nnn)
What trucks are Luca Giammarco riding? They look like just regular narrow trucks, no fancy radikals or split fires or anything like that. Whatever they are they obviously work?
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Trucks
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On 2/28/2007 Michael
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(87.114.nnn.nnn)
Agreed, the Tracker RTs (stable rear) and Tracker RTx (turny front, wedged) are an excellent intorduction to slalom racing. They help you understand the different turning characteristics of trucks, and will always be useful in any quiver. AND you can winn races on what are pretty much the cheapest kind of trucks that turn you can buy.
1st upgrade to those would be a special rear truck of some sort, say a Splitfire.
Tailtap.com do them.
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nic's trucks
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On 2/27/2007
cam
wrote in from
Australia
(220.233.nnn.nnn)
hey nic, i think that for an entry level cheap slalom truck you cant go past the tracker race track combo (106mm) .thats my personal opinion, other people may think differently.
however, other good trucks at reasomnable prices include, bennets as a front truck for ts, and a 30*105mm seiemic for a back truck.
thats just my thoughts on the topic, hope this is use to you.
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ceap slalom trucks
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On 2/27/2007 nic
wrote in from
United States
(65.44.nnn.nnn)
i need some cheap slalom trucks. trackers? which ones? ?,?
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oops
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On 2/27/2007 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
that typed out wrong, i'd want to charge more for my trucks.
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bears
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On 2/27/2007 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
they don't look horrible,alot of the negative stuff about them couldn't be seen in a pic,i don't much like the ball joint thing even when they're quality.a nice fairly close tolerence delrin bushing is real cool, it doesn't ride metalic harsh and play can be minimal,one is enough if the width is good,not having a ball joint between the bushings is ;lighter ,snappier to center,and perhaps a bit easier to work on. Nice hardened 8mm axles would do nice, i like the 40 degree turning angle my latest trucks are(have been for some time) on that angle as well.over 200 bucks, each? or both? I wouldn't buy them for that much money but i wouldn't sell my trucks for that much either.
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Bear naked
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On 2/27/2007
Jamie M
wrote in from
Canada
(65.93.nnn.nnn)
Check them out here.http://www.landyachtz.com/D27.cfm?PID=257
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where?
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On 2/27/2007 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
where can i see bear trucks? good pics?
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FUK's
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On 2/25/2007 WAX
wrote in from
United States
(67.164.nnn.nnn)
Yes...a while down the road is a high, and the current model will become designated the low...but we are coming into slalom season, and there are a few gadgets I need to whip up after the baseplates...then I will do some highs, but dont hold your breath, it may be late summer
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Fux base compatibility
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On 2/25/2007
JamieM
wrote in from
Canada
(65.93.nnn.nnn)
Wax your hangers wont work with the JimZ base with the stock pivot tube in place.
I do really like the adjustable pivot on the hangers. Some people just don't understand that to take the load off the K/P you need to be able to load the main pivot accurately. The baseplate mounted spherical bearing in other trucks dont do anything except poorly guide the hanger pivot pin. You planning on making a higher axle model?
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TRUX
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On 2/25/2007
WAX
wrote in from
United States
(67.164.nnn.nnn)
The Bears are a poorly executed shot at precision...the machining isnt up to par with any of the other precision trucks on the market..the axles are made from poor quality 12 mm stock, turned down 10, the pins holding them into the hangars look hand drilled, and the bearings in the hangars are cheap... what happens if you go to a race and need new bearings? how many sets of 10mm have you seen in local skateshops.
The new FUKTRUX DH come in 200 and 180mm...Hardened precision ground 8mm axles...USA made bearings in the hangar, and they are compatable with many of the already available baseplates (Randall, Force, Pogo. JimZ..etc)...the FUK plates are next in line after some production sets of hangars are made...
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10mm bearings, ugg
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On 2/25/2007 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
i've ridden those,don't they seem kind of thin and weak? not to mention a bit more play than a 608,you wouldn't bend axles cause you explode bearings,especially with bigger wheels(97mm?)seems to me.Who makes 10mm bearings ,still reflex?maybe if oust made them,maybe if 10mm bearings were 23 or 24mm on the outside possibly with spacers attached then a range of wheels in abec11 pink formula....another dreamed up fantasy board.
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Production trucks
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On 2/25/2007 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.69.nnn.nnn)
Herbn, you'll see at lot of what you've worked out on the new Bear trucks. They're actually pretty sweet looking! I'm not enthused by the 10mm bearings needed, even though it makes sense for the stresses encountered at high speeds. Randal did a decent job with the luge/DH hanger kits. The axles there though were, um, bendable with bigger wheels(or even just New England frost heaves!). Tracker did a nice job with the slalom Offsets too. And those came with stackable precision spacers to change usable axle width.
Still, what would it take, really, to get a cast that tidily set the axle (an 8mm axle, please) in a straight line, with a hanger-to-axle seating that's in parallel with the other end of the hanger? Plastic bits are easy upgrades, as are sourcing good kingpins, nicer washers, and non-chinese stainless locknuts. Someone ought to able to put it together and still have a truck that's under $30/ea .
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Spacers
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On 2/25/2007 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.69.nnn.nnn)
Cam,if you make your own, and they are better than .01" in accuracy in the width, .02" in parallel at that width, and .008" over the axle's O.D., you'll be way ahead of anything 'mass produced', save maybe Biltins.
BTW, Ron's spacers rock.
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RE: spacers
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On 2/24/2007 turb
wrote in from
United States
(67.182.nnn.nnn)
cam , im running rockets in abec 11 gumballs. im using 'bones' spacers inside, the nuts are tight and the wheels spin freely. biltins are good , but a pain to clean . rockin ron is making precision spacers that are going to work the same way for his new line of bearings. check it out. www.ballistechbearing.com
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fixing production trucks
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On 2/24/2007 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
here's my perception of the problem. If you have a milling machine,even a mini(i have a mid) and you have a lathe,some combo machines would probabely do nicely, you could think yourself in circles and figure out a way to straighten out the hole in a regular truck or go just a bit further,and make a truck from scratch. I have made several pairs of trucks and the axle concentricity has been a bit varied, from nearly did nuts perfect to annoyingly "off" which by the way was still way better than any indy or randal i've ever chucked up, or spin tested. I feel that my trucks have been better for reasons other than axle straightness. Sharp edged accurately flat bushing seats,this makes things snap to center SO much better and makes thing go straight too. Snug cylindrical delrin pivots,i've done a variety of diameters i feel the larger diameters reduce presure(less psi)though there is a limit in there somewhere, when the surface area gets to big friction will go up,i don't have the physics to figure that out accurately. I've done ball bearings,mini,not 608's,no shericals either, that was thrilling for a while but not really "all that" for what i do with a truck. Bearings might be cool for slalom but i think for going fast with loose trucks and carving alot, a snug,perhaps minimally loose delrin pivot does fantastic. I've added a second,smaller,pivot on the other side of the bushings for a real solid pivoting action. Lowness, my trucks are bolted onto the bottom of my board and i get the same rideheight as most drop through an dipping deck set ups,the edges of my boards are about a quarter inch off the ground when they're steered all the way with softest bushings, but i usually ride with the next harder bushing at minimal compression. Lightness, between delrin bushing(lighter than bearings) split axles, thinner kingpins,smaller size(lowness is samller) and 7075 aluminum stock, my 180 ish width trucks weigh about as much as a venture 5.0. 7075 is way strong things can be thinner yet still have strength. With two pivots the king pin is quite unstressed, i've used axle stock(8mm) as kingpins without failure,little aluminum tophat shims center my bushings. The 8mm axle stock is neutral hard which means it will almost certainly bend before breaking, they havn't bent yet,i've checked them on the lathe.
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SPACErs
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On 2/24/2007
cam
wrote in from
Australia
(220.233.nnn.nnn)
What are the most precise bearing spacers currently on the market?I easily make them on a metal lathe, but how precise would i be able to get them?
If anyone knows where i can get the best please tell me, or should i just buy biltin bearings and not worry about it?
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