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| Truck Reviews (15215 Posts)
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bennetts
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On 1/25/2008 skinny bop
wrote in from
United States
(70.246.nnn.nnn)
I heard some geezer guy and richys web-site sells them
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bennett
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On 1/25/2008
hc
wrote in from
United States
(71.132.nnn.nnn)
do anyone know who is selling these moded bennetts?
(ball pivot)
http://calstreets.com/site/images/2008tshirts/benett/bennett%20vector%20kh%20D.jpg
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Paul's Response.....
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On 1/18/2008 Same Guy as before PSR's response to Paul
wrote in from
United States
(65.122.nnn.nnn)
Hmmm, Interesting. Knowing how they work in the setting I'm using them for, that makes sense. Thanks - P
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Slidin' on springs
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On 1/17/2008 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.68.nnn.nnn)
Paul, my 'deep rocker' psuedo-S-camber downhill deck(it's thick birch,steam-bent,with a layer of triax glass on top), when mounted with old German Seismics will push standing slides easily on steep pitches; just 'blip' the turn deeper and add a bit of mid-torso twist while Not Pushing Down, and it'll drift two or four wheels at will. The pivot pins end up being just about at the same height as the bottom of my feet. So, there's traction, if you want it, but also the stability of being at the 'roll center' of the trucks, and the front is steering at around 58*, with the back at 38* or so. Great set-up for twisty hills where your speed will vary as the curves dictate.
I add the 'spring return' factor though, simply because once you're 'down low', the ankles aren't really working at peak response-speed, and Siesmics come back to center pretty quickly, more-so if you're not used to 'em. I've only been 'bucked' a few times, but always when I was low enuff to grab, pendulum, etc, and usually just after one of those pesky frost-heave-leftover cracks snaked under the board.
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Sliding and Not Sliding with Seismics from a Slalomer
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On 1/17/2008 Paul Howard
wrote in from
United States
(65.122.nnn.nnn)
Hmmm, I do almost all my big hybrid, Giant and Super G courses with a 130mm Tracker RT-X on front pos wedged 10 to 15 degrees(depending on the hill), and a Geezerized Seismic 30 degree baseplate/130mm hanger in back. Lately I've started neg wedging my back Seismic about 7-ish degrees and man that thing STICKS the wheels to the pavement in that configuration. However, the few times that I did go into a slide around a cone with that setup, it seemed pretty smooth and controlled but then again, the board slid in a nice 4 wheel drifting slide and the angle of the centerline of the whole setup relative to the direction of travel wasn't very severe either.
But, intentionally pitching the setup into an intentional slide and putting the board closer to perpendicular to the line of travel could be a different story however since that is a pretty grippy rear truck and that's why I use if for slalom riding. Possibly in addition to the spring issue coming into play, the fact that the roll center is much closer to the ground(and farther from your foot) is one of the reasons why PVD's and Seismics make a good grippy truck(more pressure loading on the wheel in the "inside" of the turn, good balance between "inside" and "outside" wheels).
Somehow, I bet with a drop-deck traction would be diminished and slide stability would be increased enough to even things out and make for better sliding even with a seismic. Hard to say though, I'm a slalom geek and not much of a downhill slider. Adios - Paul
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Sliding
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On 1/15/2008 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(64.30.nnn.nnn)
Slidin' with Seismics is really about how well you can deal with the little oscillations that occur. They'll 'jump' on frost-line cracks, too, but otherwise they're pretty predictable. A cool thing is 'squeezing', by pumping down towards the wheels, mid turn, does good things in breaking into a slide easily, as the spring's action will push the wheel beyond it's traction limit. Low-down is where I've encountered 'spring hop', but that's N. New-England roads for ya...They aren't Flat. So, it's a choice/style issue: are you always turning and getting into slides? or are you bombing, and pushing for a down-the-hill-drifter? If you're doing the turns, Seismic might be allright. Bombing, I'd stay with bushing-equipped trucks.
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slide seismics?
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On 1/15/2008 evan
wrote in from
Canada
(142.227.nnn.nnn)
can you slide seismics? there's a second hand board i am looking at buying that come with them on it, but i've heard they spring back pretty feircely, would this be an issue?
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seismics
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On 1/11/2008 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(71.127.nnn.nnn)
if you look to your left, there's a picture of a seismic,the baseplate is different thicknesses at the ends this sort of makes for a wedging effect on a drop through board,also the ribs in the baseplate are pretty close to the holes,you can always grind away a little wood to clear the base and in an extreme caseglue on reinforcements, they make those carbon dropthrough deck strengtheners. If you have an idea and a bit of determination you can make anything fit,alot of things are possible that may never see mass production.
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seismics on dropcarve
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On 1/11/2008 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(71.127.nnn.nnn)
it looks like the board has cuthroughs with a shape that might allow seismics perhaps with just a little fine tuning,seismics are not as tall a truck as randals,combining dropthrough truck mounting with a dropping board contour, and a normal height truck could create clearence problems with the ground. Since the board is shaped for the truck(apparently) it's been done by someone atlandyahcts,perhaps bigger wheels are necessary 83mm flywheels or 85mm speedvents or even bigger.
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quick question
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On 1/9/2008 quick question
wrote in from
United States
(68.237.nnn.nnn)
Is it possible for me to mount seismic trucks onto a landyatchz dropcarve deck?
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ACS refits
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On 1/9/2008 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(64.30.nnn.nnn)
Mattr, you'll be happily suprised to find that the 'retro' truck GF Hurley is using are quite close (not the baseplate mount holes, tho!) to ACS trucks. Those hangers might be the gig?!
Another thought would be E-bay/Silvefish used old Bennett Hi-Jacker or Add+Trak hangers from someone who busted the original baseplates back-in-the-day, they fit perfectly with ACS bases!
There were also some Euro-made truck on Indiana's old store-page. Haven't seen those in awhile, though Vlad might be able to get them? Ask him over on slalomskateboarder . com page, maybe he'll know?
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Cutting down truck hangers
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On 1/7/2008 apryde
wrote in from
United States
(69.235.nnn.nnn)
Thanks alot for the good advise! I definitely don't want to try and get the hanger down to 100mm and then end up with an 70mm hanger after all the "adjustments". I'll see what I can do with what I have. I was just looking to quicken up one of my rides without spending extra $$$ for more tools.
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acs 500
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On 1/7/2008
mattr
wrote in from
United States
(76.28.nnn.nnn)
I have an old board and was having a great time carving around last summer.
Then, One of my ACS 500 trucks broke.
Ive spent the rest of the year trying to find a replacment on ebay;they are just too expensive!
Does anyone have any recommendations for a cheaper alternative modern or otherwise?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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facing,cut-down
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On 1/7/2008 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(64.30.nnn.nnn)
Art, what you're up against is having the right tooling.. In my pre-Machinist days,I'd use some less-than-accurate tools, and still get decent results. So, without a lathe, cutting with a bandsaw would get you to within a few thousandths, IF you you've got the 'center' truely found, but the hanger face won't be even close to perpendicular. So, cut, then file, using whatever guide for the file you can toss together. Then, get a facing cutter that spins on the Axle. The I.D. bore ought to be 5/16" with the overall Diam. being 3/4". McMaster-Carr tools might have that cutter? It still won't be MonkeyWrench perfection, but it'll do.
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cutting down trucks
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On 1/7/2008 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(71.255.nnn.nnn)
i wouldn't trust cutting them down with a handheld hacksaw,a consistant 2.5 or 5 mm off each end and straight too...tall order,especially if you're that critical about your truck set up. You pretty much need a lathe or access to someone who has one. With a lathe you can make a live support for an axle,a bearing holder. then you can spin the whole hanger around the axle and cut down the hanger to right down to the axle without cutting the axle. Even if i was doing a 8mm axle conversion i wouldn't pound out the axle until after the hanger was cut down.
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rockin ron
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On 1/7/2008 hc
wrote in from
United States
(71.132.nnn.nnn)
http://www.skatetechnology.com/Midtrack_Mod_Video.wmv
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Axles
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On 1/7/2008 WAX...
wrote in from
United States
(24.9.nnn.nnn)
Art
both RTX and Bennet use 1 piece axles that go all the way thru...
just pound them out, cut the end of the hangar, and re insert them with some retaining compoumd form Loctite
much easier than filing
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Axle drilling depth?
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On 1/7/2008
ArtPryde
wrote in from
United States
(69.235.nnn.nnn)
Geezer_X, PSR, Richy, Pauliwog.....
I need some expert advise on how far are the axles drilled into the hangers for RTX's and re-issue Bennetts? I have a 110mm Bennett and RTX truck and was wondering,"Why can't I just file down the hanger to 105mm or maybe even 100mm?" I don't have the tools to pull out the axles to find out on my own, and I'm sure that there isn't a definitive answer on how far a hanger can be filed down before the axles becomes unstable, but I thought that you three or others would know how far the axles are "set" into the hangers.
I did read some of Polywog's well-thoughtout posts on the other site, but was still wondering if it would be worth the time to patiently file down the ends of these hangers. Would 87, 88..etc degrees axle to hanger interface really make that much of a difference with the "lower" RPMs and distances slalom riders travel?
Thanks alot,
Art
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RE: Paris vs Bear Grizzly vs Randall II
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On 1/6/2008
Brett H. Nelson
wrote in from
United States
(68.121.nnn.nnn)
Randall II's and Bear Grizzly 1052's and 852's are carving trucks. They can handle speed as well, but you would have to lock down on your bushings. Both truck manufacturers also make downhill versions of those trucks Randal Downhill and Bear Grizzly 1040's and 840's. I have no experience with Paris trucks, but I have a friend who rides them downhill. His setup is a bit stiff in my opinion though.
Both the Grizzly's and the RII's are pretty versatile trucks. If you tune them in with the proper bushing setup, you can get away with going pretty fast on them. However, if you are specifically looking for speed, go with the downhill version of either truck.
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Soft brushings for a Bennett
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On 1/3/2008
Rick
wrote in from
United States
(66.32.nnn.nnn)
The Holey bushings are a good substitute for the stock bushings. I run the Holey reds on my front truck and they work great. I have also tried the softer smoke and they work well too. However, if the smokes turn out to be too hard, you can also run with a set of the Khiro barrel bushings with both the barrel and top brushing below the hanger. The Khiro combination is a little taller than the stock bushing, but if you run the orange or white bushings they still work well. I have also used a cheap thick nylon washer with a single Khiro barrel. These washers are usually available in the US at Ace and Lowe's hardware stores, but I don’t know if they would be easy to find in the UK.
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Paris vs Bear Grizzly vs Randall II
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On 1/3/2008 David
wrote in from
United States
(75.15.nnn.nnn)
What are the differences between the Paris, Bear Grizzly, and Randall II? Is one better for bombing hills or carving or pumping? Someone please help me make a decision.
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soft bushings on bennetts?
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On 1/2/2008 gavin
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(89.240.nnn.nnn)
bought my boy some 4.3 bennetts for xmas, but he's a little too light (he's 4 1/2) to really turn them.
does anyone know of any cheaper alternative (pref available in the UK) to the speed dealer tower extensions that can allow me to pop on some normal bushings?
alternatively, did i read right that holey truck bushings can be slipped straight in?
thanks
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Bear Grizzly vs Randall II
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On 1/1/2008
David
wrote in from
United States
(75.15.nnn.nnn)
Landyachtz recommended I buy the Bear Grizzlys over the Randall II but gave a lackluster answer to my why? I want a truck that can handle pumping and carving but is stable enough for speeds of 35-40mph.
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Double barrel bomber!
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On 12/31/2007
munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.149.nnn.nnn)
Yeah white barrels on the front,
am i right in thinking that the deck has wedging built into the shape, if so i asume the rear is de-wedged when fitted, so you should get away with blue barrels on the back as its going to be nice and stable anyway.
Do yourself a favour and turn your kingpins round aswell if you haven't already, not sure it makes alot of difference, but is alot easier when 'tweeking'
You could use the barrel and cone as they come, the other reason i dont is that i'm quite heavy and the double barrel works better for me.
Have fun.
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bushings- munnchh
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On 12/30/2007 DH_turi_lychtz
wrote in from
United States
(72.220.nnn.nnn)
thanks for the info munnchh!
im riding a landyachtz DH race deck with randal r-2 180mm.
so your recomending me to get those khiro whites?
i just need new bushings because i feel that the yellow bushings the randals come with are not so stable. they feel wobbly at times.
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