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| Buttboarding (778 Posts)
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Buttboarding Info |
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Buttboard cruiser wheels
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On 7/29/2012 PSR
wrote in from
(184.61.nnn.nnn)
James, Grippens in 78A, or 80A Avalons/Hotspots will give you a good ride. These are "slalom" wheels, and they grip intensely, not 'drifting' wheels. However, the lips can filed/belt-sanded to relieve the 'edginess', retaining lots of grip yet providing some drifting potential. Flashbacks are still viable, but will wear on the outer bearings due to their offset cores (like my old Roadie-Racers did), and I would expect Tunnel Tarantulas to be similar. Now, with bigger wheels, rule out Gumballs, unless you want some 'drift' or want to go down to 75A. Watch your ride height, and wheel clearance with bigger wheels, as rub at speed can induce Huge wobbles, and braking can suffer with a higher ride. Butt boards are hard to adjust in both realms,so.. Big-Zigs in 78A or 80A would be good, Centrax's will increase grip, but feel 'sluggish' in turn initiation (lots of rotational mass!). Seismic's 77mm Speed Vent in 83A or 79A are great, but feel 'edgy' due to the lip shape and bigger core. Your Aluminators are a classic 'keeper', so use them wisely!
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Wheels
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On 7/27/2012
James McC
wrote in from
United States
(74.38.nnn.nnn)
I'm building another buttboard and was wondering if anybody had any wheel recommendations. This is a standard 'Lott' style board and I weigh 160 lbs. (341 kgs.). The hills I'll run on are not super steep (steep is downtown San Fransisco) and somewhat smooth, and I won't be competing (so size isn't an issue) - I just want a good, fun, fast wheel. Any suggestions about size and durometer? I have a brand new set of Power Paw Aluminators that are 70mm - 78A. They'll work, but since I have to buy Randall 180's for this deck, I may as well get new wheels, too. Suggestions?
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Got a buttboard to sell
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On 7/3/2012
Mario
wrote in from
United States
(76.102.nnn.nnn)
I haven't been to NCDSA in a long time, I hope I'm not breaking any rules by posting here. I've been out of racing, probably won't get back into it, and consequently have some neat stuff to sell, including a really special classic luge. Unlike most classic luges, it's concave, which makes it stiffer, lighter, gives you better leverage in turns, and more wheel clearance. It also has wheel wells, you simply won't rub. It's not one of a kind because I made three of them, one for myself, one for Rian James, and one for Mark Johnson. The trucks are R2s but they were modified by Herbn to have hollow 8mm axles threaded through the bore, so the bearings don't run on threads. Because of this, the bearings fit perfectly, no slop whatsoever. The truck hanger has been modified to have a speed ring cut into the face, no washers required on either side. I'd let this go for the right price and to the right person. Someone who is actively racing and needs this.
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New Board
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On 4/29/2009 ButtHead
wrote in from
(173.55.nnn.nnn)
Nice!!@!!
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Wood, bent right...
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On 4/15/2009 Pre-School Rider
wrote in from
United States
(75.68.nnn.nnn)
Did I find my next board?
http://www.sickboards.nl/catalog/popup_image.php/pID/610?osCsid=101d829c15af2dbe3167b8bb1f614277
Click the link, and see for yourself. ;-)
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santabanta
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On 4/29/2008
santabanta
wrote in from
France
(91.121.nnn.nnn)
http://sitesantabanta.net/index.html santa banta
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WTB; ButtBoard
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On 2/4/2008
AJ Powell
wrote in from
Canada
(24.122.nnn.nnn)
I will attend 3 sports at the next MCGFVI,
I need a buttboard, who still sells these?
Im looking for a Classic Lott Racing board, if those aren't available I'll buy Novak's model.
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MCGF
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On 1/13/2008 T Novak
wrote in from
United States
(66.189.nnn.nnn)
For Immediate Release: Backstabbing race organizers WILL steal events away after sabotaging the same event they are taking over the year before. Dr No Racing... as in "No, I will NOT race with Neil Orta." Racers, know the WHOLE story before you register. Stay tuned for the ENTIRE story to be told. It is unbelievable...
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Madison County Gravity Fest VI
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On 1/11/2008
DrNo
wrote in from
United States
(70.182.nnn.nnn)
For Immediate Release: Alexandria, VA --- DrNoRacing, LLC is pleased to announce, the Sixth Annual Madison County Gravity Festival, the longest running major downhill racing event in the United States that will take place July 26th & 27th , 2008. Top international gravity sports athletes from around the globe will be taking part in the unique event that will be held on East Hill Rd. in Munnsville, New York. East Hill Road is known as one of the premier venues for gravity racing in North America because of the challenging corners, high speeds and good pavement. In addition to Pro and AM Street Luge, Pro and Am Downhill Skateboarding, top athletes will compete in Classic Luge, Inline Board, Gravity Bike and Junior classes. Registration will be online at WWW.DRNORACING.COM beginning January 14, 2008 with a $25.00 discount being offered to those that sign up in the first 30 days and will run until July 18th, 2008.
Registration and Tech Inspection will also be offered on site Friday, July 25, 2008 from 12:00pm to 5:00pm. Racers that have registered online are encouraged to check-in on Friday and go through Tech Inspection to save time on Saturday. More information will be released as the event planning progresses, feel free to forward any questions to Events@DrNoRacing.com
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Jonas
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On 12/22/2007 Big Steve
wrote in from
United States
(69.235.nnn.nnn)
Jonas,
We're not too far away from Santa B. We practice at Templin. If you're up for a short drive you're welcome to practice with Christian and Kyle. Often we put the call out and one or two other riders show up.
Let me know if you're up for it.
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Jonas go to Maryhill "Festival of Speed"
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On 9/4/2007
Volcanic
wrote in from
United States
(12.104.nnn.nnn)
www.maryhillfestivalfspeed.com
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socal
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On 8/31/2007 hc
wrote in from
United States
(71.198.nnn.nnn)
jonas,
igsa race - san dimas, ca
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I wanna ride
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On 8/28/2007
Jonas Jungblut
wrote in from
United States
(71.102.nnn.nnn)
Hey!
I used to race at the Hot Heels events in Austria back in '99, '00 and '01 as well as in a couple of races in Berlin, Germany. Then moved to Santa Barbara and got busy with my career and did not compete or ride at all. Today I raced down a steep and freshly paved road on my bike and that feeling came back to me, uhhhhh... now I wanna get back on my board and go fast. Anyone racing in or around Santa Barbara or anyone wanna let me know about some meetings or events not too far away?
Thanks!!!
best
Jonas
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Keep it classic!!
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On 8/22/2007 buttimaan
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(135.196.nnn.nnn)
key word in this is CLASSIC... END OF STORY... The rest is in the hands of the riders to keep it what its meant to be.
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trucks
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On 8/20/2007
wendtland
wrote in from
United States
(65.191.nnn.nnn)
floating axles will not help against anyone. its all in the mind.
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keep it classic!!!
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On 8/20/2007 buttimaan!
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(135.196.nnn.nnn)
Guys i know that they are allowing floating axles these days..but this is not called classic luge for nothing so regardless of what is allowed it is up to the whole group to keep it the way it should be ie: Classic luge!!!!!!!! not wooden street luge...floating axles won't help you against a good rider on a real Classic!
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darren its micah, the kid from twin pines
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On 7/28/2007
micah galusha
wrote in from
United States
(67.181.nnn.nnn)
hey darren i have been trying to get in contact with you and the other guys but i cant get a hold of anyone.if you get this can you give my e-mail (armyrangerme20@yahoo.com) to everyone we used to luge with?
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yo
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On 7/24/2007
wendtland
wrote in from
Canada
(216.9.nnn.nnn)
Sorry for the long delay but I have been very busy. Who is psr seems like he knows what's going on.
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setup
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On 7/10/2007
hc
wrote in from
United States
(71.198.nnn.nnn)
Jordan, not sure what you are asking,
but most people run R2's front and back
I seen people run the 35 plate for the rear.
Make sure you run harder bushings to keep the wobs away.
(randal blue bottom and black top)
here's some more info
http://www.geocities.com/sk8sanjose/luge.html
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Front/rear steering , tightness bias
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On 7/10/2007 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.69.nnn.nnn)
Jordan, I don't agree with More Steering at the rear, but a slightly softer bushing kit does make sense. Better than 3/5th's of your weight is on the front truck laying flat, more when you 'scoot' up to get good braking or sit up for a tight corner. And front truck wheel rub is not pretty at all, so having the front snugged down a bit more makes sense. Steering, though, I'd keep good turning going on up front, but that also depends on how much you'll use the legs as leverage for turns. My trucks are further apart than yours, so my front truck leads my hips a bit. That makes it less tippy in tight turns, and more stable on straights and in braking. All a matter of preference. Just be sure that changes you make are sorted out bit-by-bit, and run up to speed gradually. It takes some laps, but then once it's sorted out, you'll know just how your sled works.
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Truck Adjustment
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On 7/10/2007
Jordan
wrote in from
United States
(24.6.nnn.nnn)
Hey guys, I have decided to do a lott style buttboard as my first one with a wheelbase around 32-34". Ill be running 45 degree crail DH trucks. I have heard of most people adjusting the trucks just like a standup skate but a few seem to make the back turn more then the front by wedging it more then the front and/or putting softer bushings in back... Whats up with that?
My initial plan is to have the front wedged to 52.5 degrees and the back dewedged to 37.5 degrees.... Then I am going to run a harder back bushing and loosen it just enough to keep the back wheels down while leaning.
Sound alright? I just dont get why people would want a stiffer less turny front truck... Seems like thats asking for slides and wobbles (atleast on a standup)...
Thanks
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Bushings
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On 6/30/2007 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.69.nnn.nnn)
Isaac, If you've got Red rads, consider using one at the rear, lower, in combo with a stiff (over 94A) top bushing. You'll be compressing the heck out of it, but it'll keep from wobbling, mostly, while allowing decent turning. Blue rads are good for the rear, imho, as they blend steering with stability. Just be sure to put in a negative-wedge to take too much steering out of the equation.
Look for those Jim-Z's or Blue/Green Stims, as they're really nice to have around.
With Khiro, get 1 each of Red/Yellow barrels, and top/bottom pairings of Black and Purple. Run the stiffer stuff up front (where your weight bias is), and go one notch or so softer at the rear.
BTW, did my 'shoulder' thing make sense?. I hope so. I've seen riders try using the point-the-legs-only thing, and get Way Too far into the turn, or worse, scoot the hips inboard, which Unseats them, while overcommitting to the corner's apex. The shoulders, and Abs, are the key to leaning off-center, but being able to re-center the body. My board actually is 'tilted' nose-down a bit, allowing me to see, but also get the shoulders across without bumping an elbow on the tar. Ah, heck, you'll just have to go ride, then figure out what plays right for you...
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Thanks psr
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On 6/30/2007
Isaac Adler
wrote in from
United States
(66.51.nnn.nnn)
Thasnks a ton psr.
I have a pleantifull supply of radiklas, just not in to correct duro (slalom duros...)
I guess I'll be gettin some khiros.
Thanks again.
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Buttboard addenda
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On 6/29/2007 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.69.nnn.nnn)
Isaac, here's some thoughts on your questions.
With bushings, stiff will reduce the likelyhood of wobbles, as will 'damp' feeling bushings. In standard sizes (conical top, barrel bottom, 1" +- in Diam.) I like Khiros as they're molded well, and come in various height sizing. Yellows(92A?) seem to be a good compromise of stability and steering, though blacks are what I've used on a few 'less turny' setups with good results, but avoidance moves and deep-lean turns are better with a softer bushing. Doh-Doh's barrels (the tops are worthless, too short) are decent too.I should note that Tracker's Superballs are darn good, though seem a bit softer than advertised.
With 'large Diameter' bushings, I found out years ago that Stimulators just ruled, but now they're way pricey; So, there's two alternatives, one a bit hard to get, the other a bit scarcer, but worth having. Radikals come in a variety of durometers, and you can use a softer bushing here, as the diameter width adds stability. Blues or Greens are fine, blacks if you need to just Bomb it. However, Radikals are shaped to Radikal trucks, so you may need to trim them. This is best done on a lathe/drill press using a 3/8" bolt and bastard file (this being the 'common tools' version of trimming. If you've got a Lathe, disregard), and you'll want to just get the bushing down to fit the hanger (roughly 1" diam.) at one end by either making it conical, or a notch-cut 3/16" in height. If you're unsure of how this might work, try downsizing a wornout old bushing first...
The other wide bushing is Jim-Z's that are meant for Bear and Grizzly trucks (landyatchz sells these), and I think that milehighskates has those bushings. They're as close to Stims as you'll get these days, although I saw Stims on sk8kings website recently.
With wheels, ditch the Kryptonics. 3DM's HotSpot will romp on by those, as will Grippens and even Flashbacks.
ZigZags are a bit faster, stickier, but not forgiving of sliding turns (when laying down. Fine if you're standing up), as they regain grip quickly enough to make you countersteer. Grippens seem to be more subtle, sticky still, but not quite as fast as Zigs. Hotspots are quite fast in softer duros, and if you run them inside-out up front, will understeer predictably (same duro F/R), keeping the back end stuck down nicely.
I'd love to help you with Technique, but I've got no good pictures. Just don't 'sit-up' unless it's to brake and/or leverage into a corner's apex. Consider moving the shoulders across to help lean, but slightly lift the inside shoulder early in a turn. This keeps the inside elbow up, but also lets you recover or change line with a 'point the toe' kind of move (either inside or to the outside of a turn). If the inside shoulder is too low, the legs can't move easily nor quickly. Try to stay low, clean, tucked-in when you're not braking or turning, but always be ready to shift the shoulders across the board to correct your line.
Lastly, be aware of your handholds. Check them in a full length mirror if possible. Putting a glove on a wheel, or cocking an elbow down when grabbing the deck will mess up a whole slew of things. It's best if you Know where your handholds are, what they look like before you suck a glove off at 45...
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