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| Wheel Reviews (7945 Posts)
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Krypto 76mm
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On 8/14/2000 todcar
wrote in from
(209.179.nnn.nnn)
I've got some and they are super lively - if you check manu's site and the archives i think you'll find that the Fu Manchus are considered kind of slow. i know that the Rogers brothers ride the new kryptos on both luge and speedboard and have had good results. Personally, I find them very fast though prone to coning - I was pointing this out to "Looney" at dump road. I have the smae cone problem with my 70mm 82a kryptos also. BUT, if you want a fast smoooth big wheel with predictable grip I think these may be the best wheels (with turbo wheels very close) out there.
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high risers
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On 8/14/2000 Lono
wrote in from
(205.179.nnn.nnn)
Toooo tall. Just use the angled risers [softees?]. Rasp out some [minimal] wheel wells.
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Riser info/ideas for XT S/S or 8ballz
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On 8/14/2000 The Man With A Plan
wrote in from
(128.193.nnn.nnn)
I was thinkin about doin some angled riser action with
some big rubber wheels (for campus-type applications).
Do any of you think it would be feasible to 3/4" - 1"
of risers AND THEN throw on urethane angled risers
I've got layin around? Is this just kinda a hair-brained
idea or is it okay?
Thanks
sK
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Krypto 76mm
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On 8/14/2000
Hamm
wrote in from
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
Danny,
I like the krypto's super cool bright flo red color because it takes my back to my youth and the krypto's of yesteryear.
Hows that for a technical response.
Dave
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Krypto race
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On 8/14/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(208.192.nnn.nnn)
I seem to remember that theres a disclaimer by Kryptos that states that their wheels are not designed for over 25 mph,are Krpto-races for flat ground pushing races?
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Krypos vs Gravity
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On 8/14/2000
Danny Connor
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
Hey Hamm,
With your words of wisdom being said, which wheel do you think is better? I want to get them with purposes of mostly high speed carving and sliding. I've got a Freeride senorita lovejoy deck, R-2's and some 70mm, 78a kryptonics sample wheels (Greg from Freeride hooked 'em up for me). Basically, I just want to be able to go faster and do some carves and slides with less wear over a long period of use. I usually am strictly a 78a guy, but I think harder wheels wouldn't cone or wear as fast. I need to spend my money on my stand-up race stuff, but gosh darnit, it's just too fun. Are there any other wheels that anyone else would suggest that would suit my purposes? Thanks a ton fellas.
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Krypto Race Wheel
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On 8/13/2000
Hamm
wrote in from
(63.29.nnn.nnn)
Danny,
The Krypto 76mm is the exact same mold(shape) and core as the Gravity FuManChu(and several other brands) that has been on the market for over a year. Kryptonics admits this but claims to use a different formula. My buddy has the Krypto's and I have the Fu's and I cannot tell a bit of difference. That being said, this is a great wheel! Its fast and durable. Is holding up against cuts, abrasions, and chunking better than other 80a wheels I've used. My only beef is that I wish the contact patch was a bit wider. If traction is the call of the day I switch to my Super G's because the contact patch is a good 2-3mm wider. Also, the core takes 8mm spacer, so make sure you know where to find those 1st.
Late
Dave
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Krypto 76mm
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On 8/13/2000 Pre-School Rider
wrote in from
(209.198.nnn.nnn)
Danny,I don't know what is in the 'thane on the 80A version,but I've got the 78A,made for Livewire.They are really fast,and wear reasonably well.My Revolvers are doing quite well,having been run up through 45 m.p.h. a few times,with no meltdown.I was concerned with the width(kinda narrow)for the purpose of traction,but they stick pretty fair,and slide only when provoked.On a scale of 1-10,for use in Downhilling,I'd give them an 8.I've read at Lonecore's site that the Orange 'thane is faster,and wears better than my black 78A's,so that could be what Krypto is using on their version.
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Kryptonics Race wheel
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On 8/13/2000
Danny Connor
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
Hey fellow slope skaters,
Has anyone had any experience with these fairly new, 76mm, 80a wheels. They seem pretty promising, but I don't know. I'm always iffy on trying products that I don't already know how they perform. I need to get over that! Thanks.
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sticky
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On 8/13/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
The Orange Aluminators are similar in ride to my white ones... but they are prettier...
Of regular wheels 74a is the softess I know about. One of the compaines that makes dirt wheels has some rubber slick type wheels that are probably even softer, though I have never ridden them. However I have heard they are extra slow... I am sure someone here has a set... HR
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Sticky wheelz
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On 8/13/2000 Gunnar
wrote in from
(193.217.nnn.nnn)
Ok Hugh, just another nice colour then.
Do anyone know what the lowest (softest) durometer available on the market is
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orange aluminators
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On 8/12/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Gunnar,
The set I have are 78a... very sticky and smooooooth... I love these wheels!!! But then again I am a real power paw fan... HR
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Krypto Spacers
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On 8/12/2000
Hamm
wrote in from
(63.27.nnn.nnn)
Mike,
I'm pretty sure the 10mm is the right spacer for that wheel.
Try this; press the bearings in without spacers, make a mental note of how far in they sit, then take them out and put them back in with the spacers. If you can't press them in as far, then the spacer is too big and you may need to find some 9mm.
I'm fairly confident that the only Krypto that takes 8mm is the big red 76mm.
Let us know what you find out.
Dave
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kryptonic
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On 8/12/2000 Mike G
wrote in from
(64.7.nnn.nnn)
I just was searching through my skateboard part box and found spacers that were old but would work fine. I measured them and they were 8 mm so i put them on and they were perfect so i began to ride and it made this rattling noise. (i have r-2's but i fixed the problem of the rattling from the truck) so i knew it was not the truck and i saw that the spacers were a little big for the axel. they will work fine but noisy. too bad the local skate shop doesnt have bearing spacers only the ones that come with china and swiss bones. looks like i gota buy some online and pay for shipping..
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Route 70 Kryptos
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On 8/12/2000 Pre-School Rider
wrote in from
(209.198.nnn.nnn)
Mike,you may have the 'narrow' core Kryptos,and they do take an 8mm spacer.If your wheel is mounted on the axle,nut tightened correctly,using the 10mm spacer,And you can still shove the wheel side-to-side,it's time to change spacers.
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kryponic
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On 8/12/2000 Mike G
wrote in from
(64.7.nnn.nnn)
Woops i mean the bearing sorta popped out of the hub on the last sentence
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Kryptonic Route 70's
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On 8/12/2000
Mike G
wrote in from
(64.7.nnn.nnn)
i just picked up these wheels and i am using 10mm bearing spacers and they seem realy tight. should i go with 8mm? They seem to work fine but when i hold it in my hand and i move one of the bearing the other one moves aswell. Should this happen? and also when i was putting in my bearings in the wheel when i pressed hard the other bearing move.
Thanks
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Grippy wheels again
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On 8/12/2000 Gunnar
wrote in from
(193.216.nnn.nnn)
Is there only me that would be interested in urethane wheels around the 100mm size, don’t tell me that it will be to heavy, just make a big aluminium hub, and a thinner urethane layer (or rubber, I don’t know witch could be stickiest but on rock climbing shoes it’s rubber)
Are there any pix on the Aluminator’s hub’s without the urethane on it, I’m just curios do anyone know how It’s constructed,
In what durometer is the orange Aluminators?
Haven’t anyone tested the Summit slicks yet, I asked them about the size and durometer but got no answer, do anyone know
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aluminators
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On 8/11/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Hey Dave/others,
I found the trick to getting the bearings into the aluminum hub is to line them up perfectly flush and then use the ol' two thumb press.
If the bearings are the slightest bit angled when you try to push them in... it will be a nightmare. But if you can get them just right, they push in real nice with thumb pressure.
Also, you will want to ensure that there is no residual aluminum build up left over from the milling process. If there is, it needs to be removed before trying to insert the bearing. Usually a finger nail is enough to do the trick, but if more pressure is needed, a hard peice of plastic will do it. Don't use anything metal or irrepairable to the hub may result... and that would really be a drag because these wheels are not cheap...
Hope that helps... HR
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Aluminators
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On 8/11/2000
Hamm
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
Hugh(or anybody else),
I'm ready to get me a set of those OJ Aluminators too. I've heard that its a real bitch pressing the bearings into that aluminum hub. Any tips?
Dave
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beautiful orange ones
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On 8/11/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Hey Dave,
I just finished mounting them on a Landyachtz DH board. I used some Randal downhill trucks too. It got kind of late to test it out tonight, so hopefully tommorow evening I will give it a spin.
I have also just finished shrinking some pix... but it's pretty late... so I will probably put them up in the morning... have fun... HR
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Orange Aluminators
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On 8/10/2000
Hamm
wrote in from
(63.27.nnn.nnn)
Hugh,
Which one of your new decks are you going to marry these to?
Dave
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Orange Aluminators
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On 8/10/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
"Santa in the big brown truck" visited my house today and dropped of a package of some of the best looking wheels that I have ever seen! They are REALLY orange... almost flourescent... let me go try them out with the black light, hold on... YES... very cool...
I will take some pix of them under the black light... (hopefully it will show up) and post them on my site...
Oh happy day... HR
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NOS
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On 8/10/2000
Kaylee
wrote in from
(158.252.nnn.nnn)
NOS, as used on ebay, means New Old Stock. As in unused, but sitting in the back room for a decade.
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NOS
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On 8/10/2000
GBJ
wrote in from
(205.177.nnn.nnn)
I could be revealing myself to be a total idiot, because I've never asked anyone else; but I've always understood NOS to mean New, Old-School. As in, unused, but ancient.
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