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| Wheel Reviews (7945 Posts)
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Wheels for Max
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On 10/29/2000 Goomer
wrote in from
(63.195.nnn.nnn)
Hey Max,
I think you should get the Cherry Bombs for your board.
Goomer
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Slider Wheels
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On 10/29/2000
Kaylee
wrote in from
(65.0.nnn.nnn)
I'm in the process of setting up a slider deck. I was planning on going with some Bones Bombers in either 85a or 90a, but I'm wondering if anyone has recommendations or opinions on a wheel that might slide better than the good ol' BB. Grip is not a factor as I already have carver boards for that. I want to do long slides, colemans, 360 slides and other variations. I did a search and that's a broad topic to search. If the Bombers are the way to go, does anyone have an opinion if the 85a or the 90a better for those types of slides?
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exkate easy riders
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On 10/29/2000 clayton
wrote in from
(130.212.nnn.nnn)
Any reviews on exkate's easy riders? comparisons between easy riders and cherryboms would also be very helpful helpful.
thanks, clayton
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Turbos, Cherries and stuff
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On 10/29/2000 tn
wrote in from
(209.208.nnn.nnn)
My turbos don't have any impurities. In anycase, they are true as hell. Regrading price of Cherries, it's like this: How many other manufacturers are making a good 8omm wheel? Nobody. Which also helps explain the price.
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Kaspian Maine Roads
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On 10/29/2000
Kurt
wrote in from
(63.232.nnn.nnn)
Kaspian, If you live near Portland stop by Moose County Music & Surf 610 Congress St. Ride the Kwiksplit, that'll smooth things out.
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Paws
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On 10/28/2000 Pre-School Rider
wrote in from
(209.198.nnn.nnn)
Kaspian,that wobble you got has probably little to do with any one brand of wheel.I've warped most everything I can get my hands(almost said paws) on.New England tarmac has no mercy.The urethane core(Centered bearing)S-9's or Madrid swingers work pretty well,while they last..Look at Gravity Super-g's,Hyper Mundos,76mm Fu-Manchu's,Livewire Revolvers,and Krypto's 76mm Racer as possble replacements.None of these have the width,and grip to compare with the Paws,but they all feature large vented cores,so they stay stable in hard side-load situations.Payaso's Roadie Racer(Red,78A)has been a good wheel for me,with minor wear on the inside edges being it's only worry.I'll toss in Exate Cherry Bombs as a possible choice,as they're well made,but they're too rough and slick for some hills(unless sliding a hill is your gig).Bring any defective wheel to your local shop's attention,and then also the company that made it.It's not always the skater's fault when things go awry!I always check my wheels to see what I can expect to do with them.If they wobble right out of the box,they often get sent back whence they came.If they develop problems after a while,I'll retire them,while contacting the makers.In some cases,it's sloppy pours or machining that create the wobs in a wheel.If it's been awhile since I got them(and I wore 'em down),I may take them to the lathe myself to straighten things back out.A seperated core is always an issue I consider too serious to ignore,and too broken to fix.Just go get new wheels,but look around before you buy.
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Power Paw 74a wobble
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On 10/28/2000
kaspian
wrote in from
(208.244.nnn.nnn)
Thanks for the feedback on this problem. Interesting to hear someone else is having the same experience with an almost-new set of wheels.
I was about to order a new set, so as to have some "spares" to swap out with, but I wonder now if I ought to get a different type of wheel. My reason for wanting the super-grippy 74a Paws is that the roads here in Maine get pretty funky in winter -- buckled with frost heave, gritty with sand and rock salt. But if this type of riding is going to play havoc with the wheels, maybe I need something tougher. Any favorites? I'm not a hard rider in terms of extreme speed, power slides or the like -- but I do like to get out all year long and hit the local hills, blemishes and all. Would a center-bearing wheel (like Sector 9's) be more resistant to getting knocked off the rim?
Thanks again.
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Cost of urithane
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On 10/28/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
I was always under the impression that the cost of polyurithane had very little to do with the price of the wheel,definitely not proportional.I figured it was the cost of running the machines,the length of the production run,you know,if sector can afford to make 100,000 wheels and somebody else can only do 1000,Sectors' gonna get a better price.Or core materials may change price,like a hard urithane core is gonna be pricey,all plastics are different,and production volumes apply to cores as much as they do to tires,then you know there are different price factors,like team,rent,paying off loans(sharks) that started the company,ceramic bearings for biker:)ect. ect. ect.The price difference between Powells smallest wheel and their biggest is slight compared to that of Exskates,Cherrys are worth it,and maybe that's why they cost so much,kind of like divorce:)
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Urethane
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On 10/28/2000 nugwop
wrote in from
(195.204.nnn.nnn)
Oh realy I don't think urethane is so expensive, or is it?
Where can i get the Bombs or M-80's for best price.
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exkate wheels
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On 10/28/2000 DT
wrote in from
(24.4.nnn.nnn)
Twice the money gets you twice the urethane.
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Exkate wheels
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On 10/28/2000 nugwop
wrote in from
(195.204.nnn.nnn)
How the H... can the Cherry bombs be twice as expensive as the Turbos? weard!
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exkate turbos
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On 10/27/2000
tropicalian
wrote in from
(150.131.nnn.nnn)
I just recieved my new longboard from www.evmg.com, the flywood 48" model. It came complete with exkate trucks and the 76mm red turbos. I really dig the wheels so far, but upon close inspection I have noticed some impurities, perhaps from the urethane not cooling correctly. Has anyone else had this problem? Should I even worries about the impurities as far as chunking and delamination goes? Thanks for any help guys.
*Jays
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d2s
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On 10/27/2000 DOOBIE
wrote in from
(64.20.nnn.nnn)
I know this isnt an original idea, but I want exkate to make these and then I'll buy some R2 trucks... so I could have an R2-D2 setup, then make an nosewalker board so I'd have a Luke nosewalker with R2-D2's... whoever said this earlier had a good idea
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Exkate Turbos
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On 10/27/2000 tn
wrote in from
(209.208.nnn.nnn)
Sick fast. Large core makes them nice and responsive for a 78A. Well built at a decent price. Great deal.
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Roadie Racers
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On 10/26/2000 Pre-School Rider
wrote in from
(209.198.nnn.nnn)
Yup,I put those pups on my newly aquired Barfoot today(had to re-paint the luge anyway,so the wheels were just laying there),and instantly remembered why I got these in the first place! I took them to the Sunbowl,and just bombed G.S. turns down it's 8% grade! 70mm x FAT with 78a 'thane is a very good thing!
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Roadie Racers
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On 10/26/2000 Cranker Sore
wrote in from
(63.57.nnn.nnn)
The Roadie Racers are still the only of their kind, since 1993. Companies come and go. The small ones with vision and desire remain. For all the riders wanting top end speed, there are wheels for you. For those who like to smash slappies, land airs INTO carves, and hook four foot diameter turns,.. there are, and will always be, The Roadie Racer from Payaso. Payaso has a way of doing things, not like the other guys.
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Power paw wobbles
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On 10/26/2000 RooX
wrote in from
(142.66.nnn.nnn)
actually im suffering from the same problem... one of my white 74's seems to have slipped a little off the core or something and is now sending vibrations through my board. its strange as they are pretty new still.
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Paw Wobble
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On 10/26/2000 Pre-School Rider
wrote in from
(209.198.nnn.nnn)
Kaspian,I suspect that you may have pulled the tire off the rim.Soft urethane wheels that were around before they made harder cores would take only so much side-load and heat before they'd 'pop'right off the bearings.With a cored wheel,it's the bond between the core and the urethane of the 'tire' that gets stressed.Look for any indications of separation between the core and the urethane.If this isn't the problem,check the bearings,and how they're seated within the core.Being from a more southerly part of New England,I know what frost heaves can do to skate equipment,and I've tweaked wheels,trucks,boards and body parts on those little irregularities that NorEastern paving has.You ought to try streetluging on some of this stuff!That's why my sleds are Chromoly + fiberglass,not aluminum!
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Aluminator ticking
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On 10/26/2000
roger
wrote in from
(198.206.nnn.nnn)
My aluminators also had that ticking sound. At first I thought it was the springs in the Seismic trucks until I moved them to another setup. I too removed and cleaned the bearings (Swiss Bones), but I also put a thin film of oil (speed cream) on the outside for easier inserting and removing. Sound was still there at first, but now that I think about it, it has not been making any noise for a while.
I suspect that the thin oil film on the outer bearing seat helped them settle into place within the hub. It sure does make them easier to place and remove!
Roger
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"Wubble wubble wubble"
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On 10/26/2000
kaspian
wrote in from
(208.244.nnn.nnn)
I'm not sure if this is a wheel question or a bearing question, or maybe a truck question.
I just got a Landyachtz Chief, purchased as a complete with Randal-II's, Power Paw 74a's, and China Reds. I love the setup. But this afternoon I was riding around on some tricky asphalt, a long sloping driveway that has melted and frozen and buckled in the bizarre Maine climate, so that riding it is a bit like water-skiing in a choppy wake (i.e., lots of fun if you can hang on). Something strange happened that felt like a wheel rub, which dumped me to the pavement (though I wasn't making any radical turn at the time).
Afterward, I checked the board, and one of the wheels has developed a wobble when I spin it with my hand. It hasn't loosened up -- that is, there is no lateral "give" when the wheel isn't spinning -- but when spinning, it is visibly off-axis. You can hear a sound like "wubble wubble wubble" and feel the slight perturbation through the body of the board. The wheel stops spinning after several seconds, while the other wheels continue to spin madly for much longer.
Any ideas as to what I've done, or what I should do next? Should I dismantle the wheel-and-bearing assembly and put it back together again? One of the reasons I bought this board as a complete was that I don't feel totally competent to deal with nuts & bolts issues like this. But I guess if you're a skater you eventually have to become a bit of a mechanic, nicht wahr? Thanks for any wisdom you can offer this relative newbie!
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PP Aluminator
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On 10/26/2000 Leroy
wrote in from
(128.193.nnn.nnn)
Oh yeah, they're the red translucent 78a aluminators
And, sorry Kaylee, no strange discoloration going on with my wheels. (They do, however, like to chunk...) but let's not get started on that whole translucent vs. solid / color thing again... ;)
L
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PP Aluminators
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On 10/26/2000 Leroy
wrote in from
(128.193.nnn.nnn)
Any one else out there with aluminators experiencing a "ticking" sensation. I'm pretty sure it's caused by the bearing slipping and shifting in the bearing seat as the wheel rolls. The sound is not present when the board is not loaded... It's definitely not because of the bearings (I've switched the bearings into kevlar/urethane core wheels and have not heard any ticking) and the ticking is not occur in any particular bearing/aluminator or any combination thereof. If I take the bearings out and put them back in (reseat them), the ticking goes away for a little while, but then comes back. It occurs with both the spacers that come with the aluminators AND the spacers that came with the bearings. The bearings, by the way, are china reds... Anybody had this problem? Any comments?
L
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Power Paw 70mm 74a Orange
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On 10/26/2000
Kaylee
wrote in from
(209.43.nnn.nnn)
My Paws have been wearing in strangely. You know how riding normal white wheels on asphalt turns the contact patch to black? And then riding them at a park or in a ditch will turn them back to white? Well, one of the front wheels is black like I expected. The other front wheel is still bright orange, not a hint of discoloration. Then, both back wheels have this black and orange swirl thing going on. At first, I though I rolled through something sticky like spilled soda and the dirt was sticking to that, causing the swirl. But the patterns have stayed after about a month of use. It's like they tried to put some kind of anti-discoloration chemical into the wheels, and it didn't get mixed in completely. Some parts of the wheel are absorbing the dirt, and some are staying as orange as when I first got them. Is anyone else noticing this? I think it's kinda cool, like the old slick flipper decks where you scratched off the top graphic to reveal a different underneath graphic, hidden gimmicks. They should work with this and make wheels that have all sorts of designs once they get dirty, and are a solid color when clean. Still, I've never seen anything quite like it. Do you think it will create any performance issues, or is it purely cosmetic?
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Cherry Bombs/M-80's
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On 10/26/2000
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
Cherry Bombs and M-80's are both 78a and both 82mm tall (diameter). The M-80 is 1/4" wider than the Cherry Bomb (maybe 80mm wide?)
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M-80
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On 10/25/2000 roger
wrote in from
(198.206.nnn.nnn)
I always thought the M-80 name was a pyrotechnic pun and it's approximate diameter.
… and Geenglos Turbos is spanish for "fast whiteboys" ;)
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