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| Wheel Reviews (7944 Posts)
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Matt's old/new wheels
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On 11/15/1999 PreSchoolRider
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
That site,OLDSCHOOL.COM/ ,has some good stuff on it,Matt.T-Bones in a 95A fly on ramps,and 93A is fast enough to scare kickflippers.If you are going to shoot hills,go with the 93A as they ride smoother.Alternate choices are Schmitt saw blades,95A or 93A,and the big Santa Cruz Bullets,in 92A or 95A.There's a scary fast Bullet,the 80mm,88A Road weapon,but I feel it's too specialized to be an all-arounder,so I use it for downhilling(not sliding my turns,tucking)and on older luges.Glad you found that site,it's a fave of mine.Ride On!
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Sliding Wheels
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On 11/15/1999 Matt
wrote in from
(207.252.nnn.nnn)
Thanks Pre. I was thinking the Powell Peralta T-Bones. Here is a link http://www.oldschoolskates.com/info1.htm, not sure if it will work. They are 67 mm and offer 97 98 95 and 93 duros. Keep in mind I am a big guy, so I probably don't want ones that are too hard. What do you think. How bout those locations? Did you come up with anything?
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Retreads
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On 11/15/1999 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
Didn't think of the retread, cool,still gotta see the price on that,sounds great thou. Hey! the bigger wheels should probabely share the same core, so I'll upgrade to 80mm tires?!
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Aluminators
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On 11/15/1999 rene
wrote in from
(216.101.nnn.nnn)
Hey guys, thanx for skating the wheels this past weekend, sounds like your having fun, as for the retread idea, we already have that worked out, what happens is soon, you will be able to send your worn wheels to longskate.com and buy a new set at a disc. as we can reuse the core,(as long as you don't go all the way thru the urethane to the core and damage it) so don't toss those worn alloys and we will have that program going soon, still got to get the site up, yes I have a whole slew of sizes with varying cores that will give you more core less urethane or vise versa, just need to take it one step at a time, but keep the rating good or bad comin... DT get your butt to my shop and I'll show you some cool stuff...:)
cya, René
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aluminator slides
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On 11/15/1999 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
True, I love slide skills,and I feel as though sliding skills are what lets you get fast, have fun ,and live to talk about it in a positive way. Lately I have been sliding less and speed carving more,every run still ends in a sliding u-turn or exit into a driveway,runoff (flatground) is boring.I actually own a gram scale (and all I deal is skateboards)and aluminators are within 2 grams of regular Powerpaws, replacable treads would add weight to the core though I've thought up, and drawn some interesting interlocking two piece cores that could secure the "tire"with a tiny bolt keeping weight gain to a minimum, the initial cost would be rough,weight lost in the wallet,is not benificial. Also has anybody noticed that big longboard wheels,for the most part don't cost that much more than the littlest stupid 47mm street-tech trick wheel,its not even greed, its that most of the actual cost of a wheel is the price of the mold and running/maintaining the molding machine the size of the wheel factors in but not in a big way,so guess what?the tire still has to be molded ,so it would cost almost as much as a tire(plastic cores are cheap)you would probabely spend like 7 bucks a tire. Cherry Bombs are extremely,extremely tough the full width plastic core does an excellent job of supporting the urithane against coning and such and flat spots are mostly a matter of technique ,wheelrub during slides,doesn't that just sound so nasty,you can't blame any urithane for that.Well I downhill on boards that can not rub,open wheel,I got pretty good tech, so all Cherrys gotta do is cover the occasional screwup,they're definitely great wheels.I agree with DT on the Powerpaws especially on the emergency slide ,my slide on the Powerpaws was not really all that fast with very little weight on the wheels,minimal damage(wear) occurred. later
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retreads
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On 11/15/1999
mike
wrote in from
(207.41.nnn.nnn)
those people who make the wheels with the aluminum core should also make them so that
they could be easly retreaded. once you have the core, you just buy a whole bunch of
"treads" and somehow slip on a new tread when your old ones ware out. they would have to
work out the fastening problem. how would you keep the tread tight on the hub?
herb, what do you think?
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Sliding Aluminators
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On 11/14/1999
Carlo Medina
wrote in from
(207.215.nnn.nnn)
DT
Knowing your habits, no wheel will last long with you!!
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Herb N.....cherry bombs and flatspots
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On 11/14/1999 DT
wrote in from
(24.4.nnn.nnn)
i was just curious on how your cherry bombs are holding up as far as "flatspotting". Have you slid them at high speeds (35+ mph) and how did they handle, react, or flatrspot? Also if you dont mind me asking....what is your hight and weight.
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Power Paw Aluminators
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On 11/14/1999
DT
wrote in from
(24.4.nnn.nnn)
I got to take a handful of runs on these fine wheels, and let me tell you, these are sticky. Not to mention, they accelerate extremly fast due to their light weight. Yet they are still strong due to an aluminum(did i spell that right? a-lue-men-um?) core. They held there lines very well. I only had two complaints which aren't that big of a deal. 1.they cost $60 smackers (i know, i know, i know all about economics and how much it takes to make a new "cutting edge" wheel with an aluminum core) 2. the core is big which is good and bad: the good is it makes them lighter, which equals quicker acceleration. the bad is there is not a lot of urethane on them, which means they wont last too long(see pont #1). Which brings another point: these are not sliding wheels. i'm sure i could ruin a set in one power slide at or above 35mph. but i would never slide these (except in the case of emergency).
All in all, i would give these a 9.5 out of 10 in the quality department; and a 9 out of ten in the performance department. (and i know Rene just mentioned it) but i would buy several pairs of these right away if they were bigger like a 76mm (and still the same size core and price) If these were made in a size 82mm or 85mm, they would give cherry bombs a run for there money if not replace them as the pinnacle downhill wheel.
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Power Paws - Aluminators
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On 11/14/1999
Carlo Medina
wrote in from
(207.215.nnn.nnn)
Well.....I've had these wheels for a few days now, using them on some local stuff, but I finally had the chance to really work them on Sunday and give em' a run for their money. The usual group met the the SJC Dumproad as planned. I can say that these wheels are one of the fastest designs to date. I was particulary impressed with their "hold" on the asphalt. You could almost hear them attempting to break loose - but refused. During a few hard carves I was able to drift the tail a bit to scrub speed, but always remained in control without the feeling of "loosing it". These are the Pirelli of skateboard wheels hands down. Keep up the good work Rene and lets see some larger sizes in varying durometers. I will anxiously await them...
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Yohimbi
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On 11/14/1999 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
Gatehill Road
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Powerpaws
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On 11/14/1999 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
Took them for a couple of major rides today,I'm have a instant brain tumor on the name of the hill,it starts im Harriman State park in N.Y.state its about a mile long,thats big for these parts a little rough in parts,but real cool,to long to do again without a shuttle, three rides including one from the mellow very top.These wheels are perfect for preliminary rides excellent traction for cuttin speed when things get sketchy, the last ride was almost a bomb,and a car caught up at the bottom ,I thought I'd do them a favor since there was no other traffic and slide to an early stop in the uphill lane,(let them by).Well ,I over compensated for the actual traction and got put on my butt for a second until I got the second glove down in the emergency butt saving two handed coleman slide. Nothing has traction when most of your weight is on your glove.
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Power Paw
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On 11/14/1999
rene
wrote in from
(216.101.nnn.nnn)
Hey Herb & Carlo, thanx for the good news/ideas, the spacers I include with the wheels, do have halos that help you center while you assemble the wheels, whatever you are useing currently must have a larger halo thats the prob. So get some of the spacers with the smaller halo and your golden, as for the larger wheels, Yes I have been working and testing some larger versions, don't want to let the cat out of the Bag just yet!! But I do have a larger alloy core in a 4 spoke version that we have tested and some cool stuff is on the way, I just need more people to buy the Aluminators so I can have a bit more $$ for R&D, if ya no what I mean.....
Take it easy people ...
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sliding wheels?
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On 11/14/1999
drew
wrote in from
(169.233.nnn.nnn)
has anyone tried doing lots of slides on 100 duro wheels?
I had a set if 85 duro bones bombers, and flatspoted all 4 of them in one run, so I moved on to the 95a bones bombers. I flat spoted them too, but only got a flatspot on one wheel. Has anyone tried a harder wheel? do the 100 duro wheels flat spot easily?
I am doing colman slides at speed, getting about fifteen feet of slide. Anyone know of a hard wheel (100 duro) of decent size (60+ mm)?
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Aluminators
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On 11/13/1999
Carlo Medina
wrote in from
(207.215.nnn.nnn)
Rene - Owner of Power Paw
Thanks for the post and personal e-mail. It was greatly appreciated. As Herbn mentioned, I believe the issue involves the use of the self-centering spacers with the raised flange. These may not be the appropriate ones to use since your wheel design is unique and unlike the competition. Any suggestions for the rest of the skaters in regards to this issue?
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Herbn's wheels
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On 11/13/1999
Steve
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
Herbn, your trucks are coming along rather nicely, how about a side project? If you make your fantasy wheels, I WILL BUY THEM!!!! So will the rest of the world. You've got the machining skills, and there must be someone out there who has the urithane skills to match. Don't hold out on us!
steve
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Aluminators/spacers
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On 11/13/1999 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
I didn't say not to use spacers ,just not those selfcentering ones ,(I forgot who makes them)they have a raised ridge that keeps the spacer hole and the bearing hole lined up,with just a little clearence to not rub on the inside of the wheel.These wheels rule really fast hills excellent traction,I wish they were bigger.Heres a fantacy wheel;80-85 mm, larger centerset aluminum core, powerpaw urithane or how about a range of formulas 76a,80a,84a available as a racers box set.
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Old school wheels
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On 11/12/1999 PreSchoolRider
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
Matt,I can't give you a specific wheel to go find until I know what size,hardness,width you are looking at,and what you'll likely be using them for.Here's some general tips for the 80's vintage stuff.Bigger than 65mm will roll over stuff,smaller than that won't,unless it's soft.Durometer mattered greatly then,mostly 'cause harder thanes of the era had little "bounce" to them.The usual cutoff for still having some resilience was 95A.Any harder,and teeth start to rattle in your head on average tarmac.Some companies,such as Schmitt Stix,Powell,Santa Cruz had 97A wheels that retained some resilient qualities.92A to 95A durometers were considered All purpose,IE,ramp,pool,street,were slidable,and moderately fast on tarmac.92A to 88A was still hard enough to use in pools,a little slow on ramps,easier to cruise with on tarmac,and starting to approach grippiness,with width being a factor in slide-ability.This durometer group had the widest variety in size and shape,and in resilience.Wheels softer than 93A haven't changed greatly,and much of what's on longboards now are remolds of 80's generation wheels,in the softer durometers.What has changed in the last decade is the formulas in wheels from 95A up to 101A.The newer wheels in these hardnesses have better resilience than the ones from the 80's,and of course been sold in smaller sizes to assist in ollie/flip based tricks.If sliding a longstick is the main focus,go with bigger wheels,in the 93A to 97A hardness arena,softer if you're on rough tar.I hope this helps you out.SK8 on!Peace.
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Aluminators
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On 11/12/1999
rene
wrote in from
(216.101.nnn.nnn)
Hey guys, we have been using spacers in those wheels for about 1 yr. The spacer makes the wheels carve better, you won't loadup one bearing, use a Fix Stix Wrench to install the bearings, and if you need to pull out your bearings just use a bearing removal press, or a screwdriver will work, just pull the wheel off the axle, then put the screwdriver inside to slide the spacer over a bit while the wheel is flat on a bench/floor, then tap on the driver so you only hit the inside race of the bearing, tap on the oppisite side of the bearing and it will pap out, I have done it this way for a long time, once the bearing pops you can use the 10mm side of the fix stix to tap out the other by hitting the spacer that will inturn push out the bearing, its pretty simple but you can e.me if you have problems...Enjoy the wheels they are fast!
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Sliding Wheels
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On 11/12/1999 Matt
wrote in from
(207.252.nnn.nnn)
I was checking oldschoolskates.com for some big older harder wheels for sliding. Can anyone recomend a set? One question with regards to harder wheels. Do you really have to worry about road quality. In other words will I get pitched if I run over a grain of sand or what?
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Spacers in Aluminators
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On 11/12/1999
Carlo Medina
wrote in from
(207.215.nnn.nnn)
Your absolutely right Herbn. I attempted to install the spacers supplied with the wheels without success. Only one bearing would seat properly and the spacer caused the other to go in sideways. This scared the hell out of me since I did not want to deform the hub in any way. With care I was able to remove it. Forget the spacer.....the hub configuration is plenty strong and the bearings are plenty secure in the machined hub.
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Ditto
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On 11/12/1999 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
Totally agree, also if you have those self-centering spacers don't use them ,if they work you won't be able to get the bearings out.
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Aluminators
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On 11/11/1999
Carlo Medina
wrote in from
(207.215.nnn.nnn)
These wheels rock! 4-warning......since the hub is machined aluminum, use care when installing the bearings. Care MUST be taken. Line them up properly. There is a chance of deforming the hub in the process if you are careless or rushed. I was careful to say the least. At $65 smacks a set, use care on the bearing installation and removal. You will deform the hub and render the wheel useless. Their performance is exceptional.....worth the wait and money spent.
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Channel One
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On 11/11/1999
jens
wrote in from
(195.204.nnn.nnn)
I ride some blue 65mm Channel One wheels. Does anybody know anything about these type of wheels?
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Aluminators
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On 11/9/1999 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
Got em in my grubby hands,these things look cool,things of teenage fancy, mags on my skateboard at last,The second set is for sale.
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