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| Bearing Reviews (4976 Posts)
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Hugh R. on Big Island
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On 7/26/2005
Steve in AZ
wrote in from
United States
(192.175.nnn.nnn)
Don't you DARE come home without riding the "loop" in Waikoloa!!
The "town" is just inland from King's Hwy, between the airport and Waikoloa Village (by the Marriott). Take the road where the Blue Hawaiian Helicopter tours is. Here's the map:
http://maps.yahoo.com/maps_result?rezoom=1&name=Sharky%26%2339%3Bs&ed=.OjCrep_0TpNVDgehE1YM9ZJis8xkTSTMbAVZn4PVZQ-&csz=Waikoloa+HI+96738-5532
The road is called Pua Melia St., and you'll want to ride it East (from the Post Office) to West (to the Fire Station). Wear your gear and take a 35-40mph set-up. There is a slight uphill runout at the fire station, but it does get a bit close to the highway at full speed, so be ready to footbrake a bit or at least slow down closer to the end. A ride back up the hill is a good idea, too.
When you're done, go fill up at the grocery store across the highway, and grab some local chow at the mixed-plate stand in the same center. Best poke anywhere.
This is a MUST ride, Hugh. Send me a postcard from that Post Office and tell me that I'm right. Take pictures. Konaweb.com for more info.
-=S=-
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BW II
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On 7/26/2005
hugh r
wrote in from
United States
(24.48.nnn.nnn)
Yes! Soon... I am just about moved back home (couple of more days to get it done) Then to Hawaii to get one of my kids situated at College (and to visit a buddy in Kona and to skate with the guys over at Veteran Skates) Then (when I get home) I can pull out ALL OF THOSE BITCHEN CERAMICS and put a stop watch to them on some HILLS!!!
Real life got in the way of skating for 13 months... skating is positioning it's self to take back control... and I'm helping it! HR
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BWII
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On 7/26/2005 BWII
wrote in from
Germany
(62.180.nnn.nnn)
BWII????????????????????????????????????????????? ????????????????????????????????????????????????? ????????????????????????????????????????????????? ????????????????????????????????????????????????? ????????????????????????????????????????????????? ????????????????????????????????????????????????? ??????????????????????????
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Cursed by the ghost of Frankenstein
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On 7/21/2005 EBasil
wrote in from
United States
(63.206.nnn.nnn)
Hugh,
That's a good tip, and I used oil for pretty much the same purpose. My problem last night (making bearings inspired by you and thanks for the offline input) was that one particular inner race just didn't "like" the ceramic balls. I swapped outer races around, but only have the one final Biltin inner race to use. I recleaned, cursed and even forced the little bastards to fit, all to no avail. The confounding part is that the Biltin and the ceramic donor both spun freely before I got in there. ...I'm off to dig up a new ceramic and Biltin donor bearing.
The other seven are pretty darn smooth feeling. I expect to go 130mph without a tuck and using 60mm wheels on flat ground. Oh, and the hair will grow back on my head, leaving my back forever.
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back together
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On 7/20/2005 hugh r
wrote in from
United States
(68.233.nnn.nnn)
Ebasil... a dab of some heavy duty grease will help keep the balls in place while you try to squeeze all of them to one side of the outer race section and sliding in the inner... the grease can be cleaned out once you've assembled the bearing... then lube as desired... the first few take the longest, but after you've done it a dozen times, it goes much faster! HR
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Changing Balls (in the bearing you freaks)
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On 7/20/2005 EBasil
wrote in from
United States
(207.200.nnn.nnn)
Ben,
To change the balls without damaging the bearing, you take off both shields then press the (hopefully) nylon retainer off the balls. After you do that, you move the balls around to one side of the bearing,all next to each other, and "pop"--out comes the inner race and the whole mess falls apart into the plastic bowl you were smart enough to be working over.
You then lay 7 of the ceramic balls into the outer race while holding it vertically like a rolling wheel, gently slip the inner race through them, then move a few balls around and away from the rest of them to ensure things don't fall apart. Then, lay the bearing down, arrange the balls and snap the nylon retainer back in. Blow some bearing cleaner or alcohol through the bearing, then put one side's shield back on. Add a drop of wonder lube (your choice, and very small drops if they're ceramic balls)then button up the second shield.
Tonight, I spent 30 minutes tearing apart some eBay ceramics and a set of Biltin 3's, then making 7 "ceramic Biltins". I then spent 2 hours trying to make the last one, then simply to reassemble a steel Biltin, mixing and matching parts to try to find a combination that wouldn't bind. I'm still at seven wonder bearings and the 7 feel very smooth. The eighth may receive a ball-peen hammer tuning if I can't figure it out tomorrow night. Oh, it will go together... ha ha!
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8-abec-9 Zoom! Prostyle Skateboard Bearings
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On 7/20/2005
Cody Clark
wrote in from
United States
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
I just recently purchased some 8-abec-9 Zoom! Prostyle Skateboard Bearings on ebay and I was wondering how fast they are. I really didnt even know they existed until 2 days ago. I have some NMB precision speed bearings and some Zero high speed bearings. Are the zoom bearings better? Did I screw myself? I dont even know. I thought about upgrading to some abec 7s but then I saw the 9s. What do you guys think?
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bearings
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On 7/20/2005 Ben
wrote in from
United States
(24.130.nnn.nnn)
how do you replace the balls wihout breaking the bearing
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re: how do you upgrade bearings.....
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On 7/20/2005 Fitz
wrote in from
Australia
(203.164.nnn.nnn)
replace balls with better ones. in my case, steel to ceramic
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Duh!
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On 7/20/2005 Darren
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(62.173.nnn.nnn)
Buy more expensive ones??
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upgrading bearings
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On 7/19/2005 ben
wrote in from
United States
(24.130.nnn.nnn)
how do you upgrade a bearing
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indy, thunder
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On 7/18/2005
slim
wrote in from
United States
(69.110.nnn.nnn)
incase this isn't a troll, i'll answer: there are many thunder and many indy trucks. all made by the same people in the same place. let us know what you are looking for in a truck and maybe someone can make a recommendation. you should try the "truck" topic though, instead of the bearing topic for your post.
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trucks
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On 7/13/2005 Eth
wrote in from
United States
(4.252.nnn.nnn)
witch is better thunder or independent??
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Fastest Bearing
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On 7/13/2005
Fitz
wrote in from
Australia
(203.164.nnn.nnn)
Currently I have a set of Bones Swiss Super 6's that Ive upgraded to ceramic.
Haven't been properly broken in yet (still a bit gluggy with oil) but already quicker and smoooooooth. Can't wait to get the oil cooking and see how these babies go on a cored wheel. They dropped by just under 30% in weight aswell. Bonus!!
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Oust
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On 7/8/2005
slim
wrote in from
United States
(69.110.nnn.nnn)
didn't mean to leave out Oust. I have a set in my Manx slalom wheels and they seem to be plenty fast too. Don't know how much they cost. Also, in the high price field, you can't go wrong with Ninja bearings.
When I'm paying, I put pleasure tools or bones reds in my son's boards, bones reds in my street cruisers, rockets or bones swiss in my serious vert, downhill, slalom boards though I've also used Pleasure Tool ceramics and Oust for slalom too.
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smooth
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On 7/8/2005
slim
wrote in from
United States
(69.110.nnn.nnn)
Is there a way to measure/feel "smoothness" in a bearing? I certainly can't feel it. I can feel fast vs. slow. I can see long unweighted spin vs. short unweighted spin (i.e. spin the wheel with no weight on the board). I can judge the effect on my bank account. But I don't know anything about smooth vs. not-smooth.
Fastest under $10: pleasure tools or minilogo
Fastest for slightly over $10: bones china red (easy maintenance) or double-shield greased old school NMB (slower but no maintenance)
Fastest for $25: rockets
Fastest for $35 that are maybe not quite as good as the cheaper rockets: bones swiss
Fastest for unlimited dough: rocket ceramics, bones ceramics
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Smooth
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On 7/7/2005 Benton
wrote in from
United States
(24.130.nnn.nnn)
anyone have a reccomendation on a semifast but very smooth bearing
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Rattling
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On 7/1/2005
jderik
wrote in from
Germany
(193.7.nnn.nnn)
Hi Jonathan,
I guess it is everything together. The reds bearings seem to have more clearance (tolerance) between the balls and the races. That makes them noiser. But the material of the bearings seems somehow better than the races of my old supermarket Abec 5's. The reds just roll longer. My old bearings were full of heavy grease - the reds are oiled. And last but least I guess one spacer rattles a litte. All Wheel nuts are verry tight exept one. When I tighten that one, the wheel does not spin. So I have to loosen the Nut a little. Hello rattling.
Thank You all, thats my last post abeout ratling ...
Have a nice ride!
jderik
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Rattling
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On 6/30/2005
Jonathan Harms
wrote in from
United States
(165.134.nnn.nnn)
Jderik, are you sure it's the bearings that are rattling when you ride rough pavement? I suppose it's possible, but a more likely culprit is your bearing *spacers*. If they're too narrow, even by a little bit, they don't make contact with the inner race of the bearings, and thus will simply rattle around in between.
Of course, if you're not using spacers, then I suppose it could be bearing-related somehow.
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To grease or not to grease
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On 6/30/2005 jderik
wrote in from
Germany
(193.7.nnn.nnn)
You better go with grease or oil. Bearings are not rust free and if You run them dry, the surface will corrode - that will damage the bearings. Greasing the bearings will put a little slippery film between the balls and the surface, so gliding is easier. Some bearings are greased for a lifetime, others You have to regrease.
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go silent
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On 6/30/2005 jderik
wrote in from
Germany
(193.7.nnn.nnn)
Thank You Chris,
i tried some grease - and quite it goes ...
I'm a sundown sidewalk surfer and like to cruise along the silent way, just to relax.
Got Flashbacks now, and they running so smooooooth with little pushing - love them.
The guys in the store said the softer the wheel, the lower the speed. But when I compare my old gravity super G's 85 A with my new Flashbacks 78A, I have to say that this is not true. The flashbacks roll better with less pushing, and the are a lot faster on rough pavement. I don't like the hard edge on the inside, cause sometimes you get cought by the edges of the pavement stones, if the stones are a little misplaced. The edges of the stones are verry sharp and cut out little peaces out of my wheels.
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Lube or no lube
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On 6/29/2005 Ben
wrote in from
United States
(24.130.nnn.nnn)
i dont use any lube now in my bearings and i was wondering if that has any negitive affect for the bearings but now they seem to be going fast and smooth
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Re: SKF Nice Bearings
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On 6/28/2005
RocknRon
wrote in from
United States
(68.69.nnn.nnn)
The inch NICE series wont work and they are LESS than ABEC 1. The quality and surface is poor. They are for garage doors and low end applications. If its a 5/16 bore 608 you are looking for. They are available. WE sell them in my shop for $1.25 a bearing or so...
They are called a 608N2ZZ. The "N2" Calls out the 5/16" special bore.
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Re: SKF Nice Bearings
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On 6/28/2005
Fitz
wrote in from
Australia
(203.164.nnn.nnn)
Hey greg,
chris chaput had some good input on the whole 7/8" o.d. bearings in the trucks forum not so long ago.
0.25mm or 0.010" might not sound like much but depending on the duro of the wheel hub, it can mean the difference between fitting and not fitting without damaging the bearing shields or races by forcing it in.
At my work we can machine to 0.005 of a millimetre but still put around 0.025mm fitting clearance on parts designed to be replaced.
Heres a tip though. If you still wanna use Imperial standard bearings, put em in a plastic bag (avoid blowing in the bag, nasty moisture) and then into the freezer. Wait 15-20min, go have a coffee.
Get you wheels and put em in hot (not boiling) water. If you don't have a bearing press just use your truck to load up the bearings (scroll back I'm sure someone wrote about it) and make sure your wheels are totally dry before puttin bearings in.
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Bearing Bores
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On 6/27/2005
Geezer-X
wrote in from
United States
(151.200.nnn.nnn)
Actually, as long as the faces of your hangers and nuts are parallel, the axle is straight, and you have well made steel bearing spagers, whether it's 5/16" (or .3125") or 8mm (.315") doesn't matter the most. The whole stack aligns itself parallel to the surface of the axle, and an error of parallelism of a couple thousandths can't be detected by any skater I've met.
8mm axles really help, but only if everything else is in tolerance as well.
And I'm glad to hear that Hugh R is getting things back together. Good luck with that.
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