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| Bearing Reviews (4976 Posts)
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ceramic rockets
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On 9/6/2006 dan@csu
wrote in from
United States
(70.56.nnn.nnn)
rockin ron kindly sent me a modified set of ceramic rockets with bigger diameter balls to cater to downhill. this labor day weekend i had a chance to get them up to speed (50mph-ish), and to be honest, they weren't any faster than biltins. HOWEVER, I still have some tuning to do- consider they are still in their break-in period, and that i was using spacers, but not steel presision ones- there was still some play. so it will be interesting to see if the pain of aligning the rockets perfectly will pay off. so far though, due to integrity in high speed slides and ease of use, biltins are still on the top of my list... to be continued!
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Vintage Skateboard Bearings
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On 8/29/2006
DonDilludio
wrote in from
United States
(68.84.nnn.nnn)
I need to find vintage skate bearings, wheels, and trucks at a decent price. Mostly bearings though. If you know anywhere to get those small little single bearings for cheap, let me know. If you know where to get cheap vintage wheels and trucks, let me know more. I make my own longboards and vintage boards and I need parts.
Brd.
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press
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On 8/28/2006
slim
wrote in from
(71.146.nnn.nnn)
JBH, as mentioned, I used the axle method for 25 years and still use it sometimes. But as also mentioned, I didn't like the fact that it uses the inner race of the bearing to push the bearing in. Perhaps side loads when skating are worse than that anyway but I figured I'd avoid putting that kind of pressure on the bearing during installation. Also, if one is using spacers, how are you sure the second bearing is going all the way in? Here's what I mean:
The first bearing you push in will go all the way in since you can push the inner race all the way into the center of the wheel a bit and it will drag along the outer race until it hits urethane (or whatever core material the wheel has). Then you put the spacer in and try to push in the second bearing. Since the inner race will once again be leading the charge and will be further in the wheel than the rest of the bearing. But it will stop once it hits the spacer. The rest of the bearing (the outer race) will not be in as far as the inner race was when you were pushing on it. Then you let go and the inner race will flex back inline with the rest of the bearing, leaving a gap between that bearing and the spacer. Then you tighten the wheel nut on and it pushes the inner race back to the spacer but that bearing isn't inline with itself anymore.
Sure, we've all done it that way a million times, but I figure since my method only cost $1 and takes maybe 1 min longer per wheel set, I might as well use it and put my worrying mind to ease, ha!
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re:bearing oil slip
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On 8/27/2006
fitz
wrote in from
Australia
(211.31.nnn.nnn)
make sure you use the oils mentioned as these are synthetic based and won't do any harm. this isn't the case if you use petroleum base oil as it deteriates the thane over time.
My fave method on hard wheels is to dunk em in hot water for a minute to soften em up. But make sure they're completely dry before your bearings go in.
How do you skin a cat?
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Bearing press?
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On 8/27/2006
JBH
wrote in from
United States
(70.246.nnn.nnn)
Slim, I admire your ingenuity, but seriously, next time, just try this: Put one small drop of bearing oil (Speed Cream, Rocket Propellant, etc.) in the bearing seat of the wheel and smear it around with your finger. Put the bearing on the axle, put the wheel on the bearing, push down, and presto! Your bearing will POP into place just as easy as you please. Takes just a couple of seconds, and has no downside that I can see. Try it, you'll like it.
Then again, tomato, tomahtoe... :-)
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Slalom Rockets?????
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On 8/27/2006 Paul Howard
wrote in from
United States
(64.5.nnn.nnn)
Hey, Thanks! - P
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fit
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On 8/26/2006 chris olden
wrote in from
(75.24.nnn.nnn)
hey Slim,
Thanks for the tip on how to put bearings in.
Works like a charm!
chris olden
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fit
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On 8/23/2006
slim
wrote in from
(71.146.nnn.nnn)
what do you mean by "won't fit?" i suspect you just mean they are difficult to install because the bearings are surely the correct size for the bearings (spacers do come in different widths though so you may not be able to use certain ones and get the bearings all the way in). You may need to use a bearing press to install them. If you don't have access to one, here's my poor man's bearing press directions, that I previously posted elsewhere:
==============================================================
I really want a bearing press but decided that if I was going to spend $40-50 I'd rather spend it on a new deck (or ten pints of Guinness)... So I got to thinking and here's what I came up with to accomplish my goal of getting bearings properly installed into my son's rock-hard, uncored Spitfires. Total cost: less than $1.
At the hardware store I purchased a stainless 5/16" bolt (same size as a skateboard truck axle) that is 2 1/2" long, a matching nut, and two washers that will fit on the bolt and have an outside diameter at least as large as a skateboard bearing. This rig also utilizes two junk bearings that I don't need anymore.
Basically what you do is put the washer on the bolt, then one of the junk bearings, then the good bearing you want to install. Put this in one side of the wheel, then put in the spacer if you want one, then the other good bearing, the other junk bearing, the other washer and the nut. (in the pics I didn't use spacers because my son doesn't care about them).
Here's what that will look like (imagine the wheel being between the sets of bearings in this pic):
Then just tighten it all together. You may need to use two skate tools if your fingers can't hold one side from turning. You'll feel when the bearings have seated all the way - don't go too crazy. Take the bolt out and you are ready to skate. Takes 30 seconds or less per wheel.
FYI, the reason I use the junk bearings is that they will be pushing on both the inner and outer race of your good bearing and avoid putting stress on it.
For the last 25 years I've always just pushed the bearings in using the truck axle, but recently decided that I didn't like the fact that this would be pushing on the inner race only and dragging the outer race along for the ride. Same problem with the bearing tool on the pictured skate tool: it doesn't reach the outer bearing race. So in this poor-man's set up I used junk bearings to insure pressure is on the entire good bearing.
The washers are just for the hell of it and to insure that even pressure is on the whole assembly. It might be possible to skip the junk bearings and just use the washers but I couldn't find any that were big enough to reach the outer bearing race but still small enough to still fit inside the skatewheel bearing area - the one's I found are just a little too large, thus the need for the junk bearings. If you can find metric washers with an 8mm inner hole (or bit bigger) and 22mm outer diameter, you'd be all set (and could buy a bolt that's a bit shorter too if you wanted).
Have fun... - Slim
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bearings
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On 8/23/2006
joel
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.135.nnn.nnn)
myworld industries tnt bearings wont fit in my new elemnt thiftwood wheels 52mm
why???
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speed demons
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On 8/22/2006 Sean
wrote in from
Brazil
(201.25.nnn.nnn)
somebody know this bearings?
it is good or this is another generic one?
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Hey Dan
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On 8/15/2006
RocknRon
wrote in from
(70.141.nnn.nnn)
I sent you a Ceramic Rockets with a differnet ball size. Ceramic Rockets are geared for acceleration in skateparks. But, because of all the Slalom customers now, Im going to add an option so you can specify for skatepark or Slalom use, and we will install the appropiate size ball. With standard Ceramic Rockets there will be end play after you tighten the axle nut down. This is done by design for skatepark use. However, for Slalom, we will install a larger ball that will have little to no end play after tighning the nut down. This will also give the bearings more top end and slightly less acceleration. As soon as I can get into my FrontPage, Ill update my website and add that option. I stock 3 different balls sizes for Ceramic Rockets now depending on what you kind of ride you are looking for. Sorry it took so long. I did not forget about you.
No this is not our Downhill Rocket. The Downhill Rockets will be ball-less. Anticipated by the end of the ye
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Rockets
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On 8/15/2006
Daniel
wrote in from
United States
(68.17.nnn.nnn)
Hey, I have been getting these cheap ceramics on ebay, but after reading this forum I ordered some of the steel rockets....I would just like to say that in my opinion if you are spending less than $60.00 I don't think you can beat the rockets! I have not tried everthing out there, but They are tighter as far as play goes, and they spin like my ceramics, I got an extra set of shields, and very good care instructions that will make it take even longer for me to kill them and order again! And all that for well under $30.00, with shipping! The company seems to be run by a cool honest guy! what the heck is going on!!!!!!! I'm afraid of what his ceramics must be, and I can't wait to see the no-ball bearing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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re: sleeves
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On 8/12/2006
fitz
wrote in from
Australia
(220.236.nnn.nnn)
i heard a review saying how other companies have made the sleeves to suit that style bearing and how they're not as good esp. if you wanna clamp down the wheel nut tight. I've already made moves toward getting some made enough for one set. I'll show some pics and tell you how they go. Reason why i need em is because a bought a set of ceramic bearings (not ninja brand) that size for a quarter the price. solid si3n4 balls.
Q ueensland
A nd
N orthern
T erritory
A irline
S ervice....
are always hiring,(huge company) but you need a really good security clearance like ex army or something.
Heaps of other work available in sydney though, just depends what skills ya got.
Skate hard man and lemme know when your out here. We're always happy to show skating visitors a good party.
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Fitz
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On 8/11/2006 steve
wrote in from
United States
(12.172.nnn.nnn)
What is diferent from the the original ninja sleaves and the ones I just bought?
And why do you need them? Do they go bad?
Also is Qantus Hiring? I need a good job next to some good surfing.
Hope I spelled Qantis right, I know they don't use the U after the Q.
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mini-mizers
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On 8/11/2006 steve
wrote in from
United States
(12.172.nnn.nnn)
I haven't had time to break-in my First set of minnies,Just 5 min session.
I like the way they line up and slide in and out with ease out of the sleaves.
I bought a pair of Randal CompII's. I'll probably use them for the floating axles.
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rockin ron
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On 8/11/2006 dan
wrote in from
United States
(71.212.nnn.nnn)
yo man i got the package today! i was beginning to forget about it. are they the same ceramics that are avaliable for sale or are they dh protos? hopefully i
ll get to try em out tomorrow...
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re steve
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On 8/9/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
you want a wheel that would take an oversized bearing ,then sleeve it down to standard 608's, you'll need a time machine and head on back to 79 for some pacers, or those other big bearing wheels ,lemon juice, ufo's too but maybe only the 4 inch.
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re: mini miser sleeves
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On 8/9/2006
fitz
wrote in from
Australia
(211.31.nnn.nnn)
thats exactly what i'm after man. if anyone out there has original ninja "mini-miser" bearing sleeves let me know. I need a set of 8. I found inline stores (in the us) that sell them individually but only ship within america. I got a quote to have them made but even at mates rates it quite expensive. can anyone can help me out?
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biltin removal
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On 8/6/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
you don't,once they're in they're biltin,he he no actually they should come out pretty much like regular bearings,,as you torque/twist the bearing to an angle they may push the other bearing out a tiny bit(thousandths)and this may seem like a tiny bit of extra drag, on a hard tight fitting wheel like a darkstar or a spitfire hardline, or a ricta (60mm burnquist,best multi trick sliding wheel)the difficulty of bearing removal is already pretty bad sometimes,but build up those limp wrists and stop wining ,it can be done,no special tool.
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mizer type bearing collar
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On 8/6/2006 steve
wrote in from
United States
(66.42.nnn.nnn)
Soneone needs to produce a wheel that would take a mini-mizer type collar that would work with 608 bearings.
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black panthers
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On 8/4/2006 dylan
wrote in from
United States
(68.236.nnn.nnn)
the worst bearings ever broke on me in a week and the abec 3 are the only ones that lasted me a month. if you like broken bearings get these but if not get lucky or bones
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Removing Biltins
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On 8/2/2006 Bob
wrote in from
Germany
(62.134.nnn.nnn)
How can I get Biltins out of the wheel (for cleaning) ? Do I need a special tool?
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Precision spacers--new batch
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On 8/2/2006
Jonathan Harms
wrote in from
United States
(165.134.nnn.nnn)
To get the best performance out of whatever bearings you choose, get yourself some precision spacers. See Vendors' Corner for more info.
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Best Bearings
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On 7/28/2006
cad
wrote in from
United States
(206.135.nnn.nnn)
Yep!
Best Bearings!
ROCKET NATION!!
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Re: seized bearing
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On 7/18/2006 PoolHog
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(62.255.nnn.nnn)
Just got an e-mail from Ron, he's promised to send me over a new set of Ceramic Rockets no charge. Now that's what I call good service. I'd like to say thanx to him on this forum, and that I wish there were more like him. Over here in the UK, it's difficult (though it is starting to get easier)to get product from "smaller" companies, so it's good to know that we'll get looked after.
Thanx again Ron
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