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| Bearing Reviews (4976 Posts)
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sliding
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On 9/7/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
These guys slide pretty hard from some fairly high speeds... (and DT's not a little guy either!) I would imagine that the horizontal force on the bearing/axel is great and they are bending inside... HR
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Esplane?
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On 9/7/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
how are you killing bearings sliding?
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Speed Cream: $1.50 for 16oz
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On 9/6/2000 Ant
wrote in from
(63.195.nnn.nnn)
Okay, heres a cool find. My roommate just got his board yesterday night. This morning he applied some kraft mayonnaise to his abec 3s and he clamined it went faster. I dont know if it really worked, but i dont know if i wanna give it a try. ill let you guys do the research. let me know how it works.
Ant
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Swiss vs China ; Ninja 7s vs Ninja 3s
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On 9/6/2000
DT
wrote in from
(24.4.nnn.nnn)
First I feel both companies bearings are extremely close in performance.
If you do a lot of high speed sliding or your starting to get into sliding, go with the cheaper Chinas or Ninja 3s. Before i hurt my shoulder i was going through a set of bearings every week or two. Now i too go to Big 5 and buy the 16 pack of Boss 3s for my slider. They are really close in performance just a little bit slower.
Then again if you got the extra money go with the Swiss or Ninja 7s
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China vs. Swiss
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On 9/6/2000
Hamm
wrote in from
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
I want to echo what Chris said. China Bones are probably the best bearing you can buy for the price. I have them in almost all my wheels. But every now & then you stumble across a deck or set of wheels that you want to treat a little more special so you lace it up with Swiss Bones.
This week I have 6(i think) boards built. My flagship(favorite) contains Swiss Bones, China in the rest.
Late
Dave
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Bones
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On 9/6/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(208.192.nnn.nnn)
Both are Powell so they are not imitators,imitations is pushing it, produced in a factory located in a country whose economy produces lower priced products is about the size of it,both bearings are made for Powell,the Swiss are better.I own a set of Swiss Ceramics,broken in, and waiting for a special occasion.
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Swiss vs China
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On 9/6/2000
Chris S
wrote in from
(208.164.nnn.nnn)
Jeffs,
I have both and here are my thoughts. China Bones are great bearings, and Swiss are better. For me, it comes down to the application. While I would love to have Swiss in every board I own (and if I had more money I would), for most stuff I just can't justify the extra price. I use Swiss Bones on boards that I am going to be racing, in hopes that it will give me an edge. Otherwise, I stick with China Bones, helluva good bearing for the price.
Hope this helps,
Chris
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Swiss bones vs. China bones?
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On 9/5/2000
Jeffs
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
Politics aside, has anyone compared "real" Swiss bearings to the Chinese imitators? Being financially challenged, I've got "red" bones in both sets of my longboard wheels. If money wasn't an issue, I'd buy the Swiss ones hands down. However, reality rears it's ugly head and that extra $20.00 matters to me. I know this is a loaded question, but, what can I say? Thanks
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Clinkers
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On 9/1/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
Why would they "start clinking" if the spacers were to short all along.
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roller blade bearings
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On 9/1/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Travis,
I buy the different rollerblade bearings for some of my decks and have good luck with them. I would recommend the ones made by Bauer (I think that's how it's spelled) or the ones made by Code 3. I use the ABEC 5's and 7's and have found them to be smooth and long lasting. (I would say fast, but I don't want to start a riot!)
Anyway, I wait for them to go on sale at the local Big 5, and have gotten them for as cheap as $13 for a set of 16. They may not be Swiss bones, but they do work well for me and mine. My two cent... HR
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clinking bearings
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On 8/31/2000 rene
wrote in from
(216.101.nnn.nnn)
It may be your bearing spacers...!
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tRue green 5's
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On 8/31/2000 Travis
wrote in from
(165.248.nnn.nnn)
Yesterday I bought tRue bearings, for my board, which has abec 1's in it. well, i put them in, and they go slower than my 1's. I thought it was a good deal, 16 bearings for $20. They are roller blade bearings, but would that matter?
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Clinking bearings
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On 8/28/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
Well,there are not a whole lot of things it cold be,There are 8 different parts in a bearing, if it has snaprings holding the sheilds on,those would probabely not make any noise,and you would see from the outside if they were loose.They races probabely wouldn't make noises either,so that leaves balls and retainers,if the balls were broken(huh,beavis,"he said broken balls")you would probabely grind to a stop pretty quick.So my guess is your retainer(s)is starting to break and the loose bearing is clanking into its neighboring bearing,plan on needing new bearings soon,unless ninja sells replacement retainers.
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ninja 7
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On 8/26/2000
david
wrote in from
(209.179.nnn.nnn)
recently i have been hearing a weird clinking sound from two of my bearings, its almost like a small piece of metal is in them. even after soaking them in paint thinner and lubing them up they still make that sound. any theories?
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nyc bearings
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On 8/25/2000 nick
wrote in from
(203.96.nnn.nnn)
Has anyone heard of or tried nyc bearings. Are they any good?
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abec 5 pig bearing
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On 8/22/2000
umit ozcan
wrote in from
(145.117.nnn.nnn)
These bearings are great. They are easy to clean and keep spinning. i have them over a year now. Back then i didn't know to much about bearings so i took them out of the box and into my s9 wheels. I used to skate when it rained or when the streets where still wet. My bearings where fully rusted. I tried to lubricate them. The shit didn't work. It made me angry so i threw one of the bearings as hard as i could against the floor, repedetly. In the end the bearing fell apart and i was like, great now you broke it, but when i looked at the debri i saw you could put it together again. This is wat makes the pig bearings so cool. They have an outer bearingshield held on its place by a piece of coilsteel, no inner bearingshield but a plastic spacer you can easily take out with a small screwdriver. When you take those two out, push the ball to one side and pop the inner ring out. Wash all the parts with some (zippo) gasoline to get rid of the old oil and rust (i swear it works my bearing wouldn't even budge when they were rusted). Put the bearing back together again and use a little bit of sowing machine or teflon oil to lubricate the surfaces. Just enough to cover the metal surfaces with a film of oil. This sould take you +/- 15 min per bearing. The bearings will keep on spinning and that makes all the difference. Always use oil. One time i tried to not use the oil. My bearings kept on spinning even longer but the next day they didn't budge. There is always some moisture in the air wich has a corroding effect on the metal surfaces. This will cause the surfaces to swell microscopicly and thighten the bearing.
question: has anyone tried to use carbonpowder in their bearings, does it even work?
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Loose Ball Bearings
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On 8/21/2000
Kaylee
wrote in from
(158.252.nnn.nnn)
Loose ball bearings had more bearings per wheel, and a different race geometry to prevent seizure,if mine are representative of most old ones. Actually, they were never super fast, and the mere thought of riding Swiss without a retainer gives me road rash. Don't do it.
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loose bearings
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On 8/21/2000 Mikw G
wrote in from
(64.7.nnn.nnn)
the way i ment loose bearings is that it had no bearing retainer
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loose bearings
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On 8/21/2000 Mike G
wrote in from
(64.7.nnn.nnn)
My dads old homemade board from the late 50's has loose bearings and belive it or not the bearings go faster than some of my bearings but i wouldnt ride this board down any hill because of it, and of coarse the clay wheels would die.
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Retainer
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On 8/21/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
Techniqually,the retainer is the plastic piece that separates the balls, and thats kind of scary(riding with them removed),the bearings may seem to spin real free with them out but that's just because of sloppier tolerances and no weight, things could just jam up and come apart if you rode the bearings like that,very dangerous.
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Swiss Bones
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On 8/21/2000
Chris
wrote in from
(208.164.nnn.nnn)
Jake,
I take it that by retainer, you mean the spacer that goes between the bearings in the core of the wheel. The spacers that come with Swiss Bones fit Powell wheels but not most of the wheels you find on longboards, ie, Kryptonics, Gravitys, etc. You do want to keep spacers, but if the ones you are using are making the wheels slower, you should probably get rid of them until you can find some proper fitting ones. The spacer should be the same width as the inner bearing seat on your wheels. With one bearing properly seated in the core, the spacer should come up flush with where the other bearing would sit. Spacer come in 1 mm size increments, so if it looks wrong, it probably is. The right spacers will make your bearings run faster, smoother, and last longer. A lot of skate shops don't use spacers, but they make lots of money off of selling bearings that wear out quickly.
For more info, do a search on spacer on this site. Lots of posts on the subject.
Chris
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bones swiss
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On 8/19/2000
Jake
wrote in from
(24.16.nnn.nnn)
ok my brother's bones swiss are excruciatingly slow, maybe one third of the speed of mine (also bones swiss). we noticed that the bearings are faster w/o the bearing retainer. would it be ok to skate on the bearings w/o the retainer in there? why or why not?
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Indy bearings
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On 8/15/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(208.192.nnn.nnn)
Really oilly close tolerance plastic sheild one side metal sheild held in by snap ring otherside. Those areusually pretty good, they seem smooth havn't tried them,and havn't sold any yet,they seem ok. I've had good luck with gold sheild speedemons.
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BFS
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On 8/14/2000
Ed
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
Does any1 know about the Independent bearings, are thay good or bad and are the speed demons good.
bomb hills not people
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Bearing Seals
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On 8/14/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
they're mostly for keeping dirt out,minimal lube, that which will cling to the internal parts is the most effective,fastest lubrication,a fully sealed oil bath bearing would have a lot of friction,with a lot of care bearings can be cleaned and relubed and will last pretty long, for fun use.For racing ,drag racing where small margins make winners a fresh set of cleanly broken in bearings are probabely the fastest.Brands and ABEC can be debated until facial blueness sets in,i wish i had a situation for timing and comparing(which would mean a lot more riding also)but i don't.I think that if your bearings seem to be a little gritty ,its probabely to late to have really fast bearings again, but wetting them with triflo,or speedcream will revive them most of the way.Then i like to turbo clean them ,using compressed air from the back(unsheilded)side you get the bearings to spin up to dentist drill speeds,most of the lube/grit will spin/blow out,then i add a drop or two of lube and reinstall.Cleaners ,solvents introduce elements into your bearings and chemical reactions that may cause a slight but unnecessary surface micro oxidation(dryness does the samething),clean with lube and if you got it, compresssed air.
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