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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 7/7/2000 Glen
wrote in from
(216.102.nnn.nnn)
The Epoxy resin and sugar will be the best solution but the most expensive. I like West Systems for ease of use.
Next would be the poly resin and sugar combo. It's probably the best bang for the buck finish. Swell Products makes a real nice Poly resin, the polyester resin at Home depot and OSH is pretty crumby. I don't remember the brand but it's in a red can with pictures of boats and cars and stuff.
The varnish or laquer finish will wear out fast. Val Surf made decks like this in the 70's and I remember how fast they'd lose their grip.
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On 7/7/2000 nick
wrote in from
(203.96.nnn.nnn)
Well i tried an experiment with the sugar and polyurethane varnish last night on an old hack board and it looks great.It even hides the little marks where my painted stripes bled under the masking tape underneath.I do wonder however, how durable this will be as i can scratch it with a fingernail at the moment.Today i,m going to try epoxy and polyester resin and also try using salt and whatever other similar things i can find lying around the house.
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On 7/7/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Oak: I have used this wood for lots of projects and have found it to be very durable if you have nice tight grain.
Pick your pieces carefully. Also take a look at some of the boards at winwood or others, to see some of the patterns that they lay their strips into.
Tongue and groove should be very cool. I thought of trying biscuit joints. Has anyone done this? How did it hold up? HR
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On 7/7/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
Tongue and groove sounds like a good idea,how about making the joint a little loose (huh,huh) but just loose enough so that a piece of fiber glass cloth tightens it up? I wish i could get around to making more boards,someone told me that if you barrel cut the strips or set up to trim them to a slight angle that would be excellent for making a concave that would not go away with time,and it wouldn't take a very complex mold to lay the strips into and clamp them ,with not a whole lot of pressure,slow cure epoxy, measured with a gram scale is probabely the best glue,1/2 inch should be good as long as there's some resunably hardwoods in there,is oak good for adding stiffness ,or to brittle?
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On 7/6/2000 nick
wrote in from
(203.96.nnn.nnn)
When making a 58" x 10" vertically lamenated deck, how thick should the pieces of wood be, and what is the best way to join them together.Would 1/2" thick pieces,connected by a tongue and groove joint, glued and clamped overnight, then a layer of fibreglass top and bottom be ok.Anybody have any ideas on this.Cheers
Nick
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On 7/6/2000 Paul d.
wrote in from
(154.5.nnn.nnn)
What ever solid wood you decide to use ,make sure the grain runs the lenght of the board.
Also,maple and oak are good and stiff but that means instead of flexing you might snap the
board.Ash isn't to bad it has long grain and it's flexy. Cherry is close in nature to maple.
But mahogany with long grain is the sweetest.A vert lam. board with a combination 2 or more
woods will make the best flat boards. Russian plywd. or any ply deck (with out fibreglass to help
with the "spring" or "snap")suffer a bit of deadness because of all the glue required.
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On 7/6/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
New Kid,
If I remember correctly, ash is a little soft and might be prone to snapping. Maple or oak should work out well. Depending on your weight, you might be able to get as thin as 5/8". If your heavy you might want to consider 3/4"... HR
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On 7/6/2000 new kid on the block
wrote in from
(24.188.nnn.nnn)
this is another question that popped into my mind... how about ash? how thick should it be for very little flex, if flex at all... 52" long... thanks
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On 7/6/2000 new kid on the block
wrote in from
(24.188.nnn.nnn)
hi, me again. i dont think i will use the kitchen board thing, sounds hard! but i think im gonna go with solid wood. ive been researching and which one would you guys think i should use... hard maple or oak? those are the only ones that say that are relativly hard. do you guys have anyother wood suggestions?
one last thing, i dont have the ply pressing thing for that dude that asked, sorry...
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On 7/6/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
New kid,
As far as the use of the word "ply", it can refer to either the pre-make plywood or to guys laminating their own together (which I am finding is considerably harder to do than it sounds; while keeping is structural integerity anyway)
52" is kind of long for plywood unless its pretty thick with lots of plys. You can concave the deck to help add stiffness. Although solid wood might work better for you if this is going to be a walking deck.
To make it look fancier, you can do the old "kitchen cutting board" technique (vertically laminated strips of alternating types of hardwoods) These make a real nice retro '70's look that I think is starting to come back into style. (I know... never really left if your a real geezer!)
To do the "kitchen" board you will need a planer and a jointer for best results... good luck... HR
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On 7/5/2000
namon
wrote in from
(209.209.nnn.nnn)
New Kid On The Block, do you have a wood compressor to make plys? I want one please. Send me one cheap. Ill even pay for the shipping.
bomb hills
not people
namon
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On 7/5/2000 new kid on the block
wrote in from
(24.188.nnn.nnn)
okay, im thinking about making a 52" x 10" board. i was wondering what wood to use. solid or ply? i want minimum flex (if any). and when you guys say ply, does it mean putting the plys yourself? or buying the already made plywood at a lumberyard?
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On 7/5/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Glen,
I have posted the pix of the "bass boat" finished deck. Looks very cool, although I don't think that the 72 dpi of the web serves it justice... Its in the viewers boards section... thanks, HR
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On 7/4/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
I have added a couple of boards made by Scott M. to my homemade section. They are some nice examples of vertical laminated hardwood... HR
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On 7/4/2000 Kanoa
wrote in from
(38.29.nnn.nnn)
Hey Glen,
If you send the pics to Hugh maybe he can can post those pics on his homemade page so so all of us can see them.
p.s does anyone know what happened to that guy that was going to make and sell Toft reproductions?
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On 7/3/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Hey Glen,
That Bass boat board sounds very cool... I would love to have some more pix! HR
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On 7/3/2000 Glen
wrote in from
(216.102.nnn.nnn)
Metal flake Bass Boat finish shortboard.
A friend just gave me an unfinished shortboard ( actually it's a 34" x 9", a longboard by 70's standards.).I deceided to finish the bottom with resin to seal it, instead of the varnish that is normally used. I deceided that a plain old wood bottom would not be real exciting so I mixed some black coloring into the resin to give a translucent black finish, then sprinkled some silver glitter into the resin. I added a top coat of resin and sanded with 400 grit to know down the bumps but to leave the deeper textures. It's pretty wild, I'll get some pictures tomorrow and post them somewhere.
Hugh, you need more picts for the web page?
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On 7/3/2000
Mike
wrote in from
(64.7.nnn.nnn)
Well I went searching through my garage a week ago and i found my brothers old old school deck (too bad he took the independends off of it)and i found my old pair of gulwing trucks. I decided to sand the board and repair cracks. i then gave it a cool 80's paint job then i used my gulwings and dirtwheels that were laying around and made a tight dirtboard. fun fun fun to ride!
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On 7/2/2000 super hyper mega french frog
wrote in from
(163.187.nnn.nnn)
i wil say it again..use clear uncolored vernish and some little salt...put a lay of the vernish and put the salt on it, mix it on the board with what you find under your hand..then let it dry and put an other lay of clear vernish...when dry you'll see it is really clear and that also super detailed draws appear clearly..aloha..!!
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On 7/2/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
On Clear tape:
I have used it on several boards with mixed results. Your success will depend on several things.
How clear is clear? Some tape is more opaque than otheres.
The colors you use in your graphics. Make a test sample first, then tape over it to see how it will look. Some colors look better than others.
Get the bubbles out. On black tape it is hard to know when you have very tiny air bubbles. But on clear tape, every single pin-head sized air bubble shows up like crazy!
You might want to check back over the archives for some non-tape deck gripping ideas if you are going to be putting a lot of effort into you topside graphics.
Have fun and good luck... HR
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On 7/2/2000
Jonas
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
It depends on the griptape,but most can be seen through pretty well.Probably comparable to wax paper.I have put stickers under some and most recently got a S9 Nosewalker that has the graphics on both sides,that they put clear tape on.My biggest complaint is that clear tape starts looking ugly after collecting some road grime.
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On 7/2/2000
patrick
wrote in from
(195.24.nnn.nnn)
I am going to build a deck with clear griptape. I want to paint something on top of the deck and then stick the tape over it. Does anybody how clear you can see through the tape. Probebly the image should not be to small or detailed.
Has anybody ever done this?
Patrick
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On 7/1/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Dave,
I have a board that I have been contemplating trying that exact idea on. It is quite thick (aprox 3/4") so I was planning on planing (or is that planing on planning?) Any way, I am going to make it thinner, then add a couple of plys, then do the mid-set router idea.
If you end up trying this before me, please post your results and thoughts (I need all the help I can get!)
Thanks, HR
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On 7/1/2000 Blah
wrote in from
(209.132.nnn.nnn)
Jonas is right, Brickman is riding a Hypercarve w/ the computer that gravity sells, tracks stuff like speed and distance I believe.
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On 7/1/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Kanoa, Check my page to see how I have done just what your asking about... HR
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