|
|
|
| Wheel Reviews (7944 Posts)
|
| Wheel |
Review |
|
Pink
|
|
On 8/14/2006 Derik
wrote in from
Germany
(193.7.nnn.nnn)
My pink Powerballs are not more chunkin as my green Flashbacks. They are fast and grippy with a verry predictable drift/slide. The core has a little uneven outside, but the bearings and pacers match perfect with verry tight nuts. Great wheels, no complaints.
|
|
|
|
|
Abec 11 Gumballs
|
|
On 8/14/2006 DT
wrote in from
United States
(68.5.nnn.nnn)
Everybody keeps bitchin about the pink gummies chunking and all. guess what?. chaput delivered what everyone asked for... cheap fast wheels!!!
when you have very fast urethane, you'll have chunking.
it goes hand in hand.
all the haters out there need to stop hating, and love one another.
pink gummies are fast. not as fast as sublimes!
|
|
|
|
|
Gumballs...Pink vs Green?
|
|
On 8/13/2006
Kevin
wrote in from
United States
(72.197.nnn.nnn)
How do the new urathane pink gummies compare to the original greens? If you have ridden both, I'd like to know how they compare as far as speed and grip...
Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
Other way, dude...
|
|
On 8/9/2006
The Durometer Police
wrote in from
United States
(65.127.nnn.nnn)
Harder duro front / softer rear.
Unless you enjoy healing from nasty hippers.
|
|
|
|
|
Wheel duro's
|
|
On 8/9/2006 Don J
wrote in from
United States
(64.115.nnn.nnn)
If using 80a in the back and 75a in the front, is that an advantage for the the back to be harder? May not make that much of a difference? In turns the 75a in front are good, and speed for the 80a in the back, is this correct?
|
|
|
|
|
turning off caps lock...
|
|
On 8/3/2006 the grapes of broth
wrote in from
United States
(70.144.nnn.nnn)
... or maybe learning a little bit more about your equipment and what you are doing before you start bombing 40mph hills
|
|
|
|
|
Wobbles
|
|
On 8/3/2006 Derik
wrote in from
Germany
(193.7.nnn.nnn)
If you are canstantly riding above 40 mph, you should think about harder bushings or dewedging or downhill trucks.
|
|
|
|
|
recommended tightness
|
|
On 8/1/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
well obviously just a bit tighter would've done it, eh? There really isn't a specific tightness formula,it's more of an approach to handling hills, you work up slowly and if you go down hills while constantly carving you may be able to take things right up where those dreaded wobbles start ,and make it, just by carving a bit harder. If you finnish a run and you were drasticly scary close to wobbles you can tighten up or carve more on your next run.
|
|
|
|
|
DOWN HILLING AT MOUNT STERLING KENTUCKY
|
|
On 7/31/2006
VALENTINO
wrote in from
United States
(67.32.nnn.nnn)
I WAS GOING DOWN HILL AT ABOUT 40MPH THEN MY BOARD STARTED TO WOBBLE, SLAM ALL OVER THE HILL. GOT SOME GOOD BUMPS BRUISES AND SCRAPS. WHAT IS BEST RECOMMENDED FOR TIGHTNESS ON TRUCKS FOR DOWN HILLING BUT YET I CAN STILL FAST REACT ON THE STREET? THE WAY I HAD THEM SET WERE AS THEY CAME FROM THE MANUFACTURE. I DIDNT RELIZE UNTIL THE WOBBLING START. HECK OF A TIME TO REACT. IM ALSO RUNNING THE SECTOR NINE NINEBALLS 70MM/75A.
|
|
|
|
|
pinks
|
|
On 7/29/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
rolled them down one of the bigger hills in my immediate a possibly 50 mph if you go all straight and aero,these wheels are WAY fast and really tough to slide, the only slide i did ,except for speed drifts, was a u turn at the bottom to end the ride and they gripped super hard and my feet slid off the griptape a bit My loosy new board was cool for mid thirtys, i definitely need to tighten up just a bit, i actually got a bit of a wobble between a few turns in the real steep sections, also a bit of under steer(front wheels slide)i started to blame it on the wheels but (duh) i just thought of it, i got one yellow hardcore bushin and i put it in the back truck, i either need to move it to the front or put a yellow up there up front too,your looser truck will steer a bit more and so those wheels will slide first.Two thumbs up on chaputs' latest, iwas ran some biltins toopretty nice as fast as anything, but i may not be the best judge of thati've been off the big hills for a bit ,and i'm having a new round of fun scaring the hell out of myself.
|
|
|
|
|
reflex formula
|
|
On 7/27/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
i got a couple of sets of the gumballs in pink, they're a bit lighter ,20 grams for the set, that may not seem like a huge difference but does the lower density make them springier? between the springynes and the weight that could make the difference.
|
|
|
|
|
re:
|
|
On 7/26/2006 dan
wrote in from
United States
(216.17.nnn.nnn)
for downhilling i'd go with 90mm and 78a. good place to start until you know exactly what kinda ride you like. the evo rocks 90mm really well.
|
|
|
|
|
wheels for and evo
|
|
On 7/24/2006
cam
wrote in from
Canada
(24.70.nnn.nnn)
im riding a landyaughts evo and right now i have 78's on it
the ride is so rough and recently the board slides nad drifts every time i try to turn at anykinda speed im thinking i should upgrade to abec11 flywheels 83mm 75a but im not shure about the hardness any ideas????
|
|
|
|
|
UFO's
|
|
On 7/24/2006 chris olden
wrote in from
(75.30.nnn.nnn)
Here's some NOS protos...
|
|
|
|
|
Wide, flat-backed wheels
|
|
On 7/23/2006 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(69.160.nnn.nnn)
While way too big for say, Grentecs or other smaller vintage rides, I've found that once they're worn a bit, and lathed back to true, Flashbacks make for a great near-retro wheel replacement, as they're really close the width of old Krytonics (pre-core, or early C-series). Another biggish wheel that I liked alot (and was translucent Red way before the Dogtown movies) came from Tim Oates, the Payaso Roadie-Racer. It totally has the look of a mid-to-late 70's hoggin' bowl+tunnel riding wheel. I don't know if Tim still makes them? Having re-issue Cubics and Tunnels out is cool, though I'm holding out for UFOs!
|
|
|
|
|
about sliding wheels....
|
|
On 7/20/2006 Mr. Who
wrote in from
Peru
(200.106.nnn.nnn)
Wich wheels are best for sliding in concrete????? ive tried lots of wheels and i laready know that while smaller the wheel and higher the durometer the beter you slide but, wich brand is the best one?
|
|
|
|
|
Grentech
|
|
On 7/18/2006
1848
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(81.178.nnn.nnn)
well...
I knew I would have to endure the wrath of the purist.
my choice was motivated by the fact that the original GT wheels; link below
Click here for link
were almost as wide as high.
originally, probably 56mm diam by 52mm width; they stick out clearly on each side of the board (i don't have any pictures of that). when I tried the board with the krypto TRUE, the whole thing was high and narrow; link below
Click here for link
the advantage of the cambria, beside the fact that i know how they ride (i'm riding trimmed avalon in 78a on my slalom set up) was the fact that they do not look completely out of place.link below
Click here for link
Click here for link
I have been recommended the retro bertz by several people but I think that like the impulse they would be very narrow. I've already had to insert 3mm spacers between truck and wheels to compesate for the very slight offset of the cambrias.
thanks for all the comments, though, and if you have any ideas about these bushings, let me know.
|
|
|
|
|
1848's Grentec
|
|
On 7/18/2006
Steve in AZ
wrote in from
United States
(192.175.nnn.nnn)
Yeah, the Cambrias are a bit overkill for that ride! They're also just a TAD on the big side...you really should be running a 55-60mm wheel, max.
Try a cheap set of either the Kryptonics IMPULSE wheels. They're the clearish-amberish color, and they make a great retro replacement. I really like the Retro Berts in that smaller size.
I'd shy away from the old PowerPaws: the outer lips are just way too mushy for most turns at speed.
If you do find another suitable replacement, I can find a new home for those Cambrias! :-)
-=S=-
|
|
|
|
|
Grentech
|
|
On 7/18/2006 1848
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(81.178.nnn.nnn)
So, I did it...
I went for the spoilt brat option and have splashed out on a set of blue cambria..
now, that's what I call Sidewalk Surfing; what a fantastic little (24"x6") cruiser.
Then again anything on these wheels would make a fantastic ride.
I still need to have a look at the trucks but that's less urgent as they seem to holding nicely.
ride, ride, ride...
|
|
|
|
|
Grentech
|
|
On 7/18/2006
1848
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(81.178.nnn.nnn)
from what I've gathered, i will get a terrible ride out of vintage 70's wheels such as what's on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/POWER-PAW-70s-skateboard-wheels-NEW-Crystal-Red-55mm_W0QQitemZ7250738480QQihZ015QQcategoryZ16263QQcmdZViewItem
and I think I want to ride the stuff. I've checked some of the Krypto slammer on line (cheap option) and in shops, and sellers seem to say that there is no difference of duro among the different colours. judging from what I've seen, the pink ones are way softer than the blue ones for instance but I still don't know the exact duro.
yet, it'd still look slightly anachronical, 80's wheels on 70's board...
ideal would be the retro zigzag in 78a (red translucent) but again at 66mm it feels too big.
i'm relly toying with the idea of getting a set of cambria in 78a or 81a, but again, price wise; it feels a little steep.
i had planned to bring the board to Hove on Friday so that everyone can go about their advice.
i'll see you there then, and we'll talk trucks...
|
|
|
|
|
Grentech
|
|
On 7/18/2006
PaulW
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(81.19.nnn.nnn)
Heh, would LOVE to see that thing fully loaded at Hove...
The Vintage Gear section contains many gearheads who will be happy to pass on their advice.
I think you have to decide whether you're doing a restore, or trying to make a rider than works, with modern equipment.
If going for the former...
Getting something analogous to the original GT wheels aren't so hard to come by. I think you could consider any other "off brand" ruby red wheels from the 70s. The decent ones will be soft and probably a pain to skate, but you can -legitimately- put sealed precision bearings in them, as GT did this too (I think Alpine Sports sold the complete like that as well in the UK).
If you want a rider, you CAN get hold of vintage red Krypto rollerskate wheels from some vendors in the UK. They're about 55mm...talk to Teach? He may have a lead.
The trucks will benefit from getting a once-over too. Replace pivot cups and bushings. On this, I'd think about changing the kingpin for something newer/stronger and modding some new bushings to get it turning.
Or, get some ACS651s on the old style baseplates. I can hook you up with ACS hangers. Your bushings of choice etc.
Pw
|
|
|
|
|
Wheels for Grentech Coyote II
|
|
On 7/17/2006
1848
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(85.210.nnn.nnn)
I found this grentech board, which I promptly aquired, at a boot sale recently.
my first board looked a little like that although this one is obviously older (it's the same age as me exactly!!!). Anyway, i took it home and proceeded to clean it and replace the bearings with a new set, but the board still rides really rough and it's obviously down to the wheels which look and feel knackered... after all they are nearly 30 year old and the duro seems quite hard; harder than 78a, that's for sure.
I tried it with a set of krypto TRUE 65 mm 78a and the board is really nice and sweet to ride (proper sidewalk surfing; I even managed a 20" drop!!!) but it feels very high and narrow and it breaks the look a little bit as the original GT wheels are 55mm and much wider.
I've been looking online for something similar but the closest I find are the Cambria in 62mm which seem very expensive for a board of this calibre (although the lot would look amazing, I'm sure...). I' ve also been recommended the retro bertz in 60mm and 81a as well as the krypto slammer (i can't find the duro for these)in 58mm.
I hate to sound histerical about the whole thing but when i saw that the board was from 7 1977 I felt "right, i got to take care of this thing...".
any ideas on how I could make this board look vaguely similar to the original while keeping it low and wide with the comfort of 21st century ride would be welcome.
if not, thanks for reading, and keep riding.
|
|
|
|
|
avs
|
|
On 7/16/2006
julien
wrote in from
United States
(68.126.nnn.nnn)
Are the turner or the 3dm ones?
I think either way they're 80a. They seem quite a bit softer than they actually are cuz the lip is so thin its easily deformable. But yeah, rounding or even just trimming the lip seems to have good results
|
|
|
|
|
yeah those edges
|
|
On 7/14/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
that's what i was wondering, i got white ones , they seem soft, 75..76..78 a ish, maybe 74a i think i've heard that, maybe i should round over the lips just a bit.
|
|
|
|
|
more padding less pushing
|
|
On 7/14/2006
sc
wrote in from
United States
(65.91.nnn.nnn)
corsa: generally, softer is faster over rough, harder is faster over smooth
|
|
|
|
|
