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| Bearing Reviews (4976 Posts)
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Movement abec7
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On 5/13/2001 Chazz L.
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
GREAT bearings! they are super smooth and fast they come all lubed and with spacers. At $15.99 they're a must buy!
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The Magically Pointless Spinning The Bearing In Your Fingers Test
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On 5/12/2001 GBJ
wrote in from
(24.18.nnn.nnn)
Bob the Dog, Lubrication is necessary. When you spin a freshly-cleaned, unlubricated bearing; if it tends to spin freely for a long time, it's probably because the inner bearing surfaces are still in good condition, are newly clean and debris-free, and most importantly, are not carrying any weight. When actually in use, your bearings are carrying your body weight, as the interface between your hard axles and softer wheels. Weight=pressure. Pressure=Friction. Friction=Heat. Heat=Material Degradation. In my opinion, you would be best to realize that spinning an unweighted bearing is no test of its' performance under skating conditions.
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oil?
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On 5/12/2001 Bob The Dog
wrote in from
(129.116.nnn.nnn)
After cleaning a set of bearings, they seem to spin longer without oil. Why is oil important or necessary? I dont see it.
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vegetable oils
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On 5/11/2001 todcar
wrote in from
(198.39.nnn.nnn)
tend to get thick and cloudy and lose their desirability
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Cheap Bearing Lube
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On 5/11/2001
Kaylee
wrote in from
(129.24.nnn.nnn)
I was broke and my bearings were dirty. Not wanting to spend like $3 on a little dropper bottle of lube, I thought about what makes a good bearing lube. A nice light oil, right. So I looked around the house and decided on light vegetable oil, in this case soybean oil. Whaddaya know, it worked as well and lasted as long as the most expensive teflon oil I've tried before. Go figure, pennies on the dollar compared to skate lube.
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Powell Swiss Bones
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On 5/10/2001 Grace
wrote in from
(24.26.nnn.nnn)
My bad...maybe I should say I'll switch to bearings that can be completely disassembled to service in the future.
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Swiss
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On 5/9/2001 Adam
wrote in from
(209.86.nnn.nnn)
I have Powell Swiss and also Kryptonics Swiss. Both are single-sided.
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Swiss
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On 5/9/2001 PCB
wrote in from
(207.172.nnn.nnn)
Do Powell Swiss have a shield on each side? I always thought they were open on the side that faces the bearing seat of the wheel. Then again, I’ve never had Powell Swiss.
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Cleaning the bearings...
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On 5/9/2001 Grace
wrote in from
(24.26.nnn.nnn)
Thanks all who helped out with some tips. I have decided to try and clean one of my sets since they have been rolling slower than the other. That way if I ruin 'em no biggie compared to ruining my fav set. I will definitely stay away from anything water based. I do have a lot of acetone around the house for my nail polish. :) In the future though I will probably try a double shielded bearing like the Powell Swiss since they are probably better at keeping grit from getting in there and you can take 'em completely apart to clean.
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krypto swiss
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On 5/9/2001
mrskateboards
wrote in from
(209.240.nnn.nnn)
these bearings rule never waer down i have had em 4 8 mnths and if u spin my wheels they still spin 4 1-2 mins awesome
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Sims Racing Bearings
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On 5/8/2001
john Gilmour
wrote in from
(63.118.nnn.nnn)
Put those Sims bearings to rest. They were just rebadged AZF sdpeed bearings which had way too much play in them for slalom--- though for downhill they were okay. They are however collectible and certainly worth more than what they were new.
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Good bearings
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On 5/8/2001 abc
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
i just bought some inexpensive bearings(abec 3), soaked them in degreaser and sprayed in some slick50 teflon spray, now they are fast as any expensive bearing(mini bearing) that i have used. And another thing, the bearing companies never tell you is that the slightly less precision of the abec3 is actually better than higher rated abec bearings for skating purposes.
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speed washers
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On 5/8/2001 Eric M
wrote in from
(141.152.nnn.nnn)
I think both the "truncated cone" and the "ring" style speed washers probably work equally well. When given the choice I go for the rings (like the Fluid ones) because they're small enough that no part of the washer will touch any part of the bearing except the inner race. I can imagine tightening down on the cone-shaped washers enough such that the washer deforms and contacts the bearing sheild. Not that anyone would crank down on them that much, but hey, it's just my 2 cents.
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Cleaning Bearings
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On 5/8/2001
Brian
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
It's not that nobody agrees on how to clean bearings, rather there are so many ways to clean them. It's just a matter of finding what works best for you and your set-up. Should you clean them? If you want to get the longest life possible out of them then, yes. For your situation where you can't remove the shield I would spray them out well with brake parts cleaner (or soak in the solvent of your choice) and then use something like 3:1 oil which penetrates real easy and will get underneath the shield. Good luck.
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Bearings clean
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On 5/8/2001 Duane
wrote in from
(64.232.nnn.nnn)
To clean bearings, never use water based anything. The following solvents all cut grease / oil / grime well: toluene, xylene (xylol), acetone. All can be bought at Home depot, the acetone at a drug store. Clean the bearings outdoors, to prevent trouble with the fumes. I use several small, glass containers and fill then with a few ounces of cleaner. Soak the bearings for a few hours (or overnite if greased) in the first container. Spin the bearings in the solvent for a while, then go to the next (clean) container and spin them immersed. Repeat with successive clean containers until no more crap comes out of the bearings. Solvent will flash off in a minute or so. Now you can oil them and reassemble if shields were taken off. You can cap and save the solvent containers (it will be obvious which ones are dirtier), but do not store them indoors or where it is hot. I have ruined bearings with sonic cleaners so I do not recommend them.
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Cleaning semi-serviceable bearings?
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On 5/7/2001 Grace
wrote in from
(24.26.nnn.nnn)
I have a question. After reading all the archives I have come to the conclusion that nobody can agree on the best way to clean bearings but hopefully I can get some opinions on whether or not I should bother trying to clean my bearings. I bought some bearings that say Swiss Chrome on them and they are unbelieveably smooth. I don't know who makes them but trust me they are sweet. I think since they have chrome balls that once you get a rolling momentum going they just keep spinning forever cause they are heavier than any bearings I have compared them to. They were quite a steal at about $20 if I remember correctly BUT they are not serviceable since you can't take 'em apart. Should I bother cleaning them if they have a nonshielded side even though I can't take 'em apart? The dudes at the skate shop told me they have some grease in there and I guess that's why even though I was stupid enough to hit some puddles on my first set they still are almost as smooth as the second set. One guy at the shop skates through rain all the time and the outside of the bearings look like hell but they still run smooth! I've had them for about four months now but have been very good about skating in dry conditions and wiping the outside of the bearings with some rubbing alcohol when they look grimey. So should I attempt some preventative maintenance to keep them lasting longer or being that I can't take them apart and they don't cost $80 a set should I just ride them till they break and then get some more? If I should bother trying to clean them what the heck should I use? Isn't a bad idea to break down grease in certain solutions like brake fluid cause then it starts to slow the bearing down? How does that Sonic Turbo Wash kit like Longboards.com carries work? I like the drop in and shake method but it sounds too easy to really work. It states that the kit comes with a citrus degreaser but isn't that water-based? Wouldn't that rust out the bearings if I can't dry them thoroughly? How the heck could I dry the bearings properly if I can't take 'em apart? Have I asked enough questions yet? ;)
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Speed Washers
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On 5/7/2001 Theboz
wrote in from
(216.116.nnn.nnn)
Speed washers should be shaped like a truncated cone so that when mounted between the hangar and inner bearing, and outer bearing and lock nut, the narrow end of the speed washer touches each bearing at the axle, and the wide end of the washer touches the lock nut and hangar.
At least that's the way I mount them.
Tom Bosworth
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what are the best bearings???
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On 5/7/2001 dog
wrote in from
(63.79.nnn.nnn)
is it thease new sins or good old powell or powell ceramics or what, give yr opnions
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Speed washers????????
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On 5/7/2001 sam
wrote in from
(199.108.nnn.nnn)
I remember back in the day the speed washers were like a regular washer bent so that the inner portion of the metal (closest to the hole in the middle) stuck out farther than the rest. That way only that portion contacted the bearing.
I just got back into skating and got some Fluid speed washers and they are simply very small thin washers. They look like the entire washer contacts the bearing. Just curious which type is more effective? (if anyone can understand what the hell i'm trying to say)
Thanks
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silica steels
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On 5/4/2001
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Posted some fairly detailed pics... review to follow soon... HR
http://www.longboard_skating.homestead.com/silicasystems_steel.html
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sims racing bearings
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On 5/4/2001
terence
wrote in from
(165.247.nnn.nnn)
I found an old set of sims racing bearings and I'd like to bring them back from the dead. Any ideas on if and how i can do this? TK
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ABS/Sin bearings
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On 5/4/2001 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
Ground is broken,first set installed minus spacers,he he,the spacers don't fit in spitfire and several other shortboard wheels.I'll need extra long spacers to throw them into my Turbos or Cherrys.
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Sin/ABS
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On 5/4/2001 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
I find them quite quick,i only have them on my carvingest flexy new board,so i don't know about top end,they seem to quick in and out of turns,it may just be my amazing new board though(pat,pat my own back:).Alot of that twitchy quickness left my Randals when i lowered them,they over power the bushings a bit,i think if i made them closer to reg width they might be better when loose.Randal should make a new truck between R1's and R2s in width and turning angle and a bit lower too.Oh well, i digress.
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sin bearings
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On 5/3/2001 andy
wrote in from
(63.79.nnn.nnn)
how fast are thease bearings? are they worth the money? how will they go with my power paw aluminators, and R2's????
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Hizzout
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On 5/3/2001 Andy
wrote in from
(206.210.nnn.nnn)
I began longboarding the way you described it. I didn't care much about the bearings either. What a change though when you finally get something better. Flatland is easier because you don't have to paddle as hard, and the roll is noticably longer. This benefit translates to hills too. You may not be searching for the same reasons as the downhill crew but I think you will be pleasantly surprised if you happen accross some quicker bearings!!
One other thing about bearings. I haven't tried any of the $100.00 ceramics or anything like that. I have a set of Lucky abec 5's I think, and I also buy China Reds on a regular basis (they are cheap and readily available to me). Plus whatever is in my buddies board. They all seem about the same to me (like HerbN said below, it's incremental gains at best between bearings!??). Where I did notice a big difference is when I put any of the ones I mentioned above in my S9 complete. It had greaseball bearings. They either suck, or they are greased versus oiled. Whatever the case, my boards are all easier to ride and much more fun because of it.
Sorry I don't have any opinion about the 7's versus 8's though.
Good luck.
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