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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 10/6/2000 Nick
wrote in from
(203.96.nnn.nnn)
Interesting technique Chris. I,ve made a kick tail using a similar method, only from a sepetate piece of ply. Felt real nice under foot, and once gripped, you couldn,t even tell.
Have you tried out those moulds (in drawing) yet?
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On 10/5/2000
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
Hey guys, I just finished my "mock" concave speedboard without the use of any molds. The thing feels soooooo good. I'll be running it at barrett Junction the weekend. Check out: http://www.chrischaput.com/design/concave for some pictures!
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On 10/5/2000
Glick84
wrote in from
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Hi! It's been a long time since i've left a post here. I've been really buisy with the cross country season and all. I finally finished my new board! I used 5 ply 1/4in baltic birch. I was origionally just going to use two 1/4in layers, but i tried that and it wasn't quite strong enough. i attempted again with 3 layers and it worked beautyfully. I made a wooden bending jig/mould press. I'm not really sure how to describe it, but i'll put pictures somewhere once i getr them back from the developers. I laminated it together and it worked beautyfullly. This is only the second deck that i have made. the first one was just a solid piece of wood and kinda crappy. It has camber and a kick tail. Imounted independent 215s on it and i love them. I can crank them so far that my old trucks would have lifted off the ground! I'm still having a little trouble getting hte grasp of the coleman slide, but i guess that this isn't the place to write about that.
I'll have pics somewhere soon! :-)
-jon
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On 10/5/2000 tony
wrote in from
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Nick,
Concrete will work for a mold, although not as easily managable as fiberglass. You can use any material for a "master" for the mold that will not be crushed or otherwise distorted by the weight of mold materialwhile curing. Concrete and fiberglass molds can be waxed to release effectively as long as there is no undercut.
Home made mold presses
When I used to make recurve longbows we had two mold pieces (top and bottom) made out of wood that had the contour of the bow on the insides and were flat on outsides. That mold would go between two pieces of plate steel that had large beefy threaded rod at each of the four corners. To lay up, place the bottom mold piece on the bottom plate steel, add material to be formed. Place on top mold piece, add top plate steel and thread wing nuts on each of the four threaded rods and tighten down. Now, I will now add that before placing the top plate steel on , there was a tool that we made out of old firehose, yes firehose, cut into sections slightly longer than the mold. Each of these sections of hose would teminate at a pipe that led to a high pressure ball/cock valve. So...lay the firehose tool across the top mold, add plate steel and tightten within 1/2 inch or so. Connect air compressor line to ball/cock assembly and open valve. MAJOR, evenly distributed pressure over the entire surface area. Let dry and then open valve and take apart in opposite of assembly. I hope this made some sense, if anyone is really interested in trying this, just post and I can work up a sketch or try to find photo or something.
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On 10/5/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(208.192.nnn.nnn)
Fiberglass,Carbonfiber,Kevlar,are strong in tension,so they work best as "skins",cores used between the skins should have a compression rigidity,like foam or really light wood,increasing strength through thickening the core is the most effective,it lowers the leverage that tries to stretch the fibers,actually compressing them against the core,torsion boxes work real well also,dividing the core with vertical sheets of fibers,good stuff.
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On 10/5/2000 Adam
wrote in from
(63.192.nnn.nnn)
With the exception of the Landyahtz glassed "pressed birch" (aka plywood) decks, most glassed decks I've seen use v-lam cores, probably from the snowboard industry. I have two glassed decks: the Landyahtz which is quite heavy, and the Peregrine which is 1/3 the weight and much livelier.
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On 10/5/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
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Nick,
I have found that extra layers of fiberglass in the core section of the board do very little to help prevent snapping.
My opinion would be to use a couple of thin marine plywood peices, either glued or epoxyed together, then layers of glass top or bottom... Maybe throw in a layer or two of veneer too... HR
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On 10/5/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
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If companies used accurately made properly designed "nests" to hold properly cleaned castings things, could be better,but "its only a skateboard" get the multi-driller put that kid from LAxico on it,and things will be off.Chips,forcing dull drills(instead of sharpening or replacing),lack of oiling,ect,ect.
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On 10/5/2000 Dman
wrote in from
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do people and companies really have that hard of a time drilling holes right with basic tool knowledge one should be able to get the same tolorances with a handdrill as a milling machine
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On 10/4/2000 Nick
wrote in from
(203.96.nnn.nnn)
Weak cores...this is the major problem I am having due to limited wood supply. I have got fibreglassing pretty sussed for the outer skins. What I am trying to figure out is if you have to make do with standard type low strength marine plys(I,m quite heavy on my boards), would it be better to make a thin core and add heaps of glass layers, or make a thicker core with less glass layers. Theres nothing more frustrating than snapping a new deck, but I don,t really want to be making inch+ thick tankers that are to heavy to drag back up the hill. If anyone has any tips on maximum strength to weight and thickness for sandwich laminates I would love to hear what you have to say.Cheers
Nick
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On 10/4/2000 Nick
wrote in from
(203.96.nnn.nnn)
Herbn, It sounds like your press is similar to mine. I,ve welded two large rectangles, I put my formers in and use car jacks to pump it up. So far I only have two flat formers to make flat boards. I,m now wanting to try some double kick, camber and concave moulds. I looked at Chris C,s pictures of vert lam wood moulds, would be interested in hearing anyones results using this style of mould. Fibreglass sounds interesting. I reckon concrete, cast into a ply box might be the go. Chuck in some scrap steel for strength. I,m just wondering how to make a mould to cast the concrete mould from??? Anyone got any ideas on this?
Perhaps a mould like Chris C,s male mould could be exagerated, and the gaps could be filled with some sort of filler and sanded, or perhaps a thin layer of ply could be added to the top?
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On 10/4/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(208.192.nnn.nnn)
I've figured that my top plate of my flat press should be strengthend but i don't want to attach a perfectly flat particle board shelf template to a warped 2x4,so bolting some short beams across the template at even spacings then connecting the ends with ply,like transitions only straight,then a little peice of ply on top to place my jack on.Two 2x4 with plywood sides to make a 4x6 or 8 beam to the strongest beams in the ceiling of my basement,should finnish things up.Maybe i'll glass the 1/2 birch ply decks i made before tring the vert lam,just for practice/experience, by the way Chris i looked at your plans,remember that ant and the rubbertree plant,high hopes,i hope it works for you,a friend of mine does some moldmaking,vacuum bagging ect,and he makes negative molds carved out of plaster or wax then painstakingly produces positive molds out of fiberglass,carefully layering it up until it's the thickness of what he wants to make then casts epoxy/carbon plates ,he's had problems with release agents that don't release,among other things,he's also had some very impressive successes.
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On 10/4/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
Paused for a bit on my lamination project,but last night i went to my workshop and routed .375 outcoves,to lower the ride height of my 3/4inch 14 ply homemade The beveled edges of the board gained some real wheelwells,the edges of the outcoves are beveled.While i had the trucks off and disassembled, i replaced the kingpins with unmachined grade five bolts and drilled another pair of mounting holes in the bases,kind of like new school holes on the other end of the base,this shortens the wheelbase .400 but i also clamp the base in my milling machine put a drill in,line it up with the original hole then move over 2.1 inches STRAIGHT,then do the same on the other side,the baseplate holes are in line with each other and the edge of the baseplate.
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On 10/3/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Chris C,
Guess we'll have to call you "Dexter"... (just in case you don't watch cartoons... ask a kid) HR
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On 10/3/2000
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
Just bought a new bandsaw and sliding compound miter saw today. Getting tooled up to produce the first round of Roughcuts. The garage is finally getting cleaned up, organized and dialed in. I feel like a mad scientist with all of his tools in his "laboratory". Next step, molds for concaves.
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On 10/2/2000
Niemsters
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
I have an idea about how to do a kind of "angled" concave instead of a "rounded" concave. Look at the bottom of http://www.chrischaput.com/design for a sketch. You'd need a table saw and some clamps for the glue up.
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On 10/1/2000
Niemsters
wrote in from
(63.28.nnn.nnn)
Hey Cris, or anyone else who would know....
Is there any way to make a board cosistantly Concoaved (not just warped lookng), with out the need of facy equipment? Other than soaking the boad in my pool and putting somethign heavy on the middle? Professionals Steam there boards and have presses right? Anything you know could help, thanks
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On 9/30/2000 Nick
wrote in from
(203.96.nnn.nnn)
I am yet to try vacuum bagging, but have been looking into it. Some good infomation can be found at the following:
http://www.ozemail.com.au/~flyingwing/vacbag/
http://composite.about.com/industry/composite/library/weekly/aa000109htm
http://web2.airmail.net/redmonj/sucker.htm
It sounds like the go for composites as less resin means less weight and increased strength.
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On 9/30/2000
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
I'll ask Richard what he uses. The guy's making boards and helmets with the stuff and he's got to be using something, right?
Tell me about vacumm bagging or whatever techniques there are for squeezing out the excess resin. I believe that it is important to get a high cloth to resin ratio to keep things light. He uses what he call a modified epoxy resin instead of regular epoxy or polyester resin.
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On 9/30/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Actually that was Herbn who had the comments on Kevlar.
My experience with it is limited. The only kevlar I have used was in fiber optic cable buffer tubes. Its configured into long hairlike strands, non-woven. I had success cutting it with very sharp telephone type snips... HR
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On 9/29/2000 Kevlar
wrote in from
(216.102.nnn.nnn)
Kevlar is very cool but as Hugh pointed out, it is very difficult to cut. Even after you cut it, it will always leave a fringe hanging off. Most boat manufacturers and others using the Kevlar or Kevlar/Carbon cut it short of the edge so as to keep the fuzzies away. I rode some Carbon/Wood, Carbon/Kevlar/Wood, and Kevlar/Glass/wood decks that Boards by Castles had made up as prototypes. The Carbon/Kevlar rode very well, the best dampining and memory of all the decks. He tried many ways to smooth the fuzzy edges of the Kevlar off from dipping them in epoxy resin and sanding to trying a blow torch to melt/burn them off. None worked, showing the resiliance of Kevlar but making manufacturing with it harder.
If there is a way to die cut the stuff, I can't imagine a blade that could hold enough edge to last very long.
Best bet may be to rough shape to size and fold the edges an inch from all rails.
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On 9/29/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
I have some Kevlar,its way WAY tough to cut,seems to dull razors in about 3/4 inch,"dull" for Kevlar that is,they still work for other things,the Kevlar gets fuzzy and the weave gets distorted as you cut it. I think production lines of Kevlar stuff might use carbide die cutting to shape the cloth.Chris; i was considering the possibility of making a simple jig for a bandsaw that would let uniform cuts to be made in the strips of a vertical lamination, before being glued into a sheet,these cuts could be close to the top and run lengthwise,for the rather unique purpose of inserting a wedge,hhhhmmmmm.
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On 9/29/2000 Pre-School Rider
wrote in from
(209.198.nnn.nnn)
Smitty,one advantage of vertically laminated wood is that the camber need not be 'stressed+pressed' into the wood,but rather can be cut into it before it's pressed.Vockl Skis use this technique of cutting the strips of wood in their vertically laminated cores to the desired camber arc,resulting in ski that holds it's shape long after others have 'gone flat'. I wish I could copy that technique,but I lack a few tens-of-thousands dollars in tools to make it happen.
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On 9/29/2000
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
Smitty, Check out my sketch of a skateboard press/mold/jig for a rockered board. Adapt it to have only the camber/rocker curves. If there is no concave in the deck, all of the plywood pieces on the bottom would be identical to one another and all of the plywood pieces on the top would be identical to one another. After making the radiused cut with your bandsaw, jigsaw or sabresaw, DON"T SAND THE EDGES. You want to have perfectly fitting male/female pieces so that when you are applying the appropriate downward forces whiles gluing, you dont have any "bubbled" areas that may delaminate later. Check out http://www.chrischaput.com/design and remember to talk to Hugh R before doing anything, he can tell you all the "do's" and some of the "don'ts".
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On 9/29/2000 Smitty
wrote in from
(165.247.nnn.nnn)
I am interested in making a slalom type deck. I was wondering, what advantages vertical laminated decks with camber had over the traditional plywood with camber? How would one go about making the vertical laminated deck with camber, should you glue the laminations together and then put the camber in or should you try to do it all at once. I am planning on making a bending jig to clamp the deck to to set the camber. Also Does anyone know what type of glass to use, when I made my first deck, I used a standard surfboard weave (6oz) top & bottom.
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