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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 9/28/2000
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
Herbn, Hugh R, I think both of you should really see if you can find a line on the carbon fiber/kevlar weaved cloth that Richard Landingham uses in his helmets and surfboards. The stuff is practically indestructable, super lightweight (especially with foam cores) and unlike carbon fibre alone, REDUCES vibration. Carbon fiber for all its tensile strength, still has the tendency to vibrate and shatter upon impact. The kevlar that is used in the weave holds the cloth together like those shatterproof windshields and absorbs shock. Check out http://www.lapsurf.com for pictures and more info. I am a composites moron but I have ridden fiberglass, carbon fiber and the carbon fiber/kevlar boards and I like the latter best.
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On 9/28/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
Carbon is supposed produce a snappier flex ,high tensile will do that,these flexier boards are not your(my) max speed boards,for that i think i prefer real solid boards.These are weight/unweight carving machines,and the vertical lamination fine tunes the woods' thickness and makes them more split resistant,and they look cool too.I like to experiment with the new technology,it's used in planes,i don't own a plane,and i don't think i wanna fly a homemade plane no matter who makes it."We choose to go to the moon".
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On 9/28/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
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Herbn,
Other than being very cool and high tech... what else are you hoping to accomplish by throwing composites on your boards (I am not being a wise guy)
I ask this because carbon fiber really isn't any lighter than glass fiber (although it is stronger) It's quite a bit more expensive and I am not really sure what it brings to the table that can't be accomplished with regular glass.
Don't get me wrong, I would love to have boards built with composites... I am just curious about your motivation... HR
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On 9/28/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
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Well,i'm getting ready for the final laminations,the fiberglass,i'm gonna use my template,with the pins in place,and another template on top,reinforced with maybe two 2x4's gotta be careful to keep things flat,no warped 2x4's.I bought a 6 ton contractors jack,it was only 20 bucks and it's got many other applications(a bit of rationalization going on here:)i usually figure if i throw enough money at a problem it'll work out.I'm actually thinking ahead to my next board,a much simpler (sure to work)project with 1/2inch birch,carbon stingers and glass top and bottom.
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On 9/28/2000 The old school drill jigs
wrote in from
(208.192.nnn.nnn)
They have two bars of aluminum that have pins that hang onto the edges of the board ,and center two steel rods that run front to back,the bars with the pins slide front to back and lock in place,so this jig fits on almost any board.Then there's a block, maybe two that have the drill bushings,or guide holes for center punches,which either lets you drill the holes or mark them.I've learned this by deciphering the ancient scrolls i found with the entombed drill jig:)
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On 9/27/2000 roger
wrote in from
(198.206.nnn.nnn)
Nick, That large of a chunk of aluminum is expensive! A milling machine can easly do +/- .005 tolerances. But just found out drill sleeves are about $7 each, yikes!
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On 9/27/2000 Nick
wrote in from
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Chris C, reguarding the link to the diffrent ways of lowering a board (from decks section) I looked with much interest at the picture of the mould you have drawed up to get 3D curves. I take it you would use strips of particle board or something similar, bolted and glued together. Have you ever tried using concrete with steel reinforcing in it to make moulds, or do the wooden moulds with rough top edges work just as well?
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On 9/27/2000 JF
wrote in from
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Are there suppliers that you can order from. I need wood for making decks, but don't think suppliers are nearby.
THANKS!
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On 9/27/2000 Nick
wrote in from
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What would be the disadvantage of using a one inch wooden block over aluminum? I have limited experience with metalwork, what sort of workshop/company would be able to drill perfectly and place inserts into a block of aluminum?
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On 9/27/2000 roger
wrote in from
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It is critical to be able to secure the jig to the board. A block that extends across the full width of a deck would allow for easy clamping (with a piece scrap wood on other side). Perhaps a 1"x4"x12" hardwood block with center marks with hardened steel inserts. Could also glue on a scale to help manually center on wheel bite edges (where centering really counts). The 1" thickness helps keep the drill perpendicular.
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On 9/27/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
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They used to have those a million years ago,(i know,i found the fossilized remains:)
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On 9/27/2000
Misterbill
wrote in from
(158.252.nnn.nnn)
What would a jig be worth? I have drawn up a design that would have provisions for self centering(left-to-right) on symetrical board blanks. Both ends are fixed to provide dead on alignment. Or as close as the CNC lathe can get it say 10/thousandths at most. The design is much more of a production jig than just a DIY hobby tool. If there is interest I could make a few. They would be at least $75 in a complete model that would align and center both trucks at once.
Would it be sufficient to have a series of holes on a fixed plate, or a sliding plate that allows for infinite wheelbase adjustment. I think the adjustable design is better, but it would involve a good deal of additional work. Maybe $25 worth.
Please feel free to give me suggestions. If there is enough interest I could have them available in 10-15 days.
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drilling jig
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On 9/27/2000
roger
wrote in from
(32.100.nnn.nnn)
Here goes again (I've posted this before)...
An aluminum block about an inch thick with six hardened steel inserts is the tool to have. Very usefull one of a kind boards and for converting newschool to traditional spacing.
Anyone with access to mill and precision skills might consider making a short run of these jigs. Or am I the only one that would be interested in buying one?
Roger
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flushers
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On 9/27/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
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Chris C,
Nice job on the flush mount... how's that thing ride?
When you get a chance, check out my top-o-deck rail mount... HR
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drilling jigs
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On 9/27/2000 tony
wrote in from
(63.226.nnn.nnn)
Making a jig to hold the decks would be the easy part, if you were doing production work. One-off decks would still require hand placement and centering.
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drilling jigs
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On 9/27/2000 tony
wrote in from
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When I worked as a machinist, we would routinely make multiple hole drilling jigs. Basically a steel shaft the size of a large drill bit goes through an aluminum plate with steel bearing sleeve. After through the other side of the aluminum plate, the shaft splits into 4 (or more, or less) steel shafts with planetary gears at each end. The angle of the shafts depends on how far apart the holes are from the central drive shaft. Each of these shafts would straighten out (via planetary gear) and go through another aluminum plate with steel bearing sleeves with drill head chucks at the other end. The two aluminum plates would be held in place with steel pins at each corner. You keep the thing loaded with drill bits and attach the whole thing into a drill press when needed. For other applications a third plate would be added at the end of the drill bits that was spring loaded to make sure the bits did not flex while drilling. Not too much money required if you scrounge, but could take a few days of fabrication. Once done, never needs adjusting and lasts. If you are ever around a machine shop that does production work you might catch a glimpse of one.
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On 9/27/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
If you get the castings of the bases straight you are quite straight,drill the two outer holes first(nearer to the ends)then use a straight edge on the bases.I tried connecting the axles to make a hole marking jig out of the actual trucks you're gonna use,that didn't work out to well.If you look at sides of the hanger,the axle usually doesn't seem to be in the middle of the hanger,so lining up the axles should be the ultimate,its difficult,but probabely unneccessary.Lining up the bases is definitely good enough,and a CNC shape around eight precisely drilled holes,is what big industry (mclongboard)will give you,and that's real good too.
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Drilling jigs
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On 9/27/2000 Nick
wrote in from
(203.96.nnn.nnn)
Anyone tried anything in the way of making a drilling jig, or have any ideas for a can,t go wrong way of drilling your own holes?
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On 9/27/2000 Nick
wrote in from
(203.96.nnn.nnn)
Jono, the only maple veneer I,ve found so far is 0.6mm thick and in 10cm wide strips. This would probably work ok, but at $15/metre square she had better be one beauty of a board.
I might try adding a layer each side of a marine ply laminate, and then glass it, but I tell you, I,ll be pissed if this one breaks.
I,ll let you know if I find anything better in the way of veneer.
We do have a good variety of timbers to do the vert lamination thing down here, but I,m not too sure on how you do this and don,t think I have the right tools, but I,m looking into it.
Let me know if you find anything in the way of wide 1-2mm veneer.
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On 9/27/2000
jono
wrote in from
(203.97.nnn.nnn)
hey nick where abouts are you geting your ply from. I have used a marine ply (3*4mm). I got this from a marine suppler in dunedin. I have put one layer of glass on both the top and bottom of the board. I have machined up 8 inserts ( T shaped ) and sunk them into the board for the trucks. This keeps a solid base for the trucks and the bolts wont pull through. If you get hold of some decent venear let me know.
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mounting holes
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On 9/26/2000
kaylee
wrote in from
(158.252.nnn.nnn)
Yeah, when I used to shape my own uncut (and undrilled) shortboards, I always marked the holes first and built the shape around that. That is the most precise way to do it. It seems some longboard companies (to remain unnamed until I speak with them first, probably tomorrow) tend to be a bit sloppy with the holes. I'd rather have them come undrilled and do it myself, so I can meet my own specs. I usually end up altering the wheelbase/tail length on most of my boards anyway. The only exception being my G&S, those holes were as straight as an arrow and the wheelbase settings couldn't be improved on at all. Besides, I'd not feel as bad if I screwed up my own holes than if I paid some company to screw them up for me.
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Out of line
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On 9/26/2000
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
To make matters worse, some trucks and/or their baseplates aren't perfectly centered either. Randal's newer race series baseplates use the old school hole pattern but are a little wide. This hole pattern is supposed to be 2 1/2" apart on center (long) and 1 5/8" apart on center (wide). The width is off by about 1/16" and so perfectly drilled mounting holes would appear to be "off". For years, Independent trucks had some molds that set their hangers listing to one side, you'd have to go through a box of them to find a matching pair that were straight. I am seriously considering including an inexpensive hand drill/bit tool with a deck and "starter holes" and centerline markers so that people could drill the damn holes themselves. A simple rod that is shaped like the one you use to jack up your car, with a drill bit cut in one end and a ball on the other should do the trick. "Buy a board, get drilled for free" sounds pretty tempting? Until then, the solution is pretty simple. 8 Perfect holes are first drilled into the rectangular uncut deck, and the holes are then used to center and hold a template in place while cutting the deck's shape out. This is not a new idea, but one that works. I hate to add cost to a product but not everyone has a drill and a bit but holes in the wrong spot is untolerable.
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Truck holes
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On 9/26/2000 Nick
wrote in from
(203.96.nnn.nnn)
It would be interesting to know just how most companies drill their holes and just how many of them get it right. I read in a new school skateboard making article that most of the big boys use special drills that drill all 4 holes at once, some even do all 8 in one go. For the smaller guy, I guess they would probably use a wooden strip with steel lined holes to drill through or somthing similar.
It appears most shortboards are mass produced with hightec machinary giving near perfect dimensions but a generaly disposable product due to rushed glue curing etc , and most longboards are handcrafted, giving a longer lasting,top quality unique product which may be slightly out in the odd measurement.
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HTML fart
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On 9/26/2000
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
Lets' try this again...
Pictures of the "Flushcut R-II" can be found at http://www.chrischaput.com/hybrid For those familiar with HTML, don't you just love it when your program embeds code for images that no one else in the world can see but the person who created the page? The classic "img src=file:///w:/folder/image.jpg..." code. Since every computer in our house has a "W:" drive mapped to the server, the error goes unnoticed until curious George (Hugh R) goes on the hunt for flushcut technology ;)
Please, no letters telling me that I should be using DreamWeaver or Frontpage or Notepad, etc. I can find ways to screw up using just about any program.
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On 9/26/2000 Nick
wrote in from
(203.96.nnn.nnn)
Hugh, I snaped my latest board today too. The problem over here is all the thin ply(3-4mm) have two very thin veneers on the outside and a thick core of crap, so even with a 4x3mm laminate, your only getting about a 4mm worth of decent veneer and 8mm with of weak low grade cross ply crap.
I think I,m gonna have to look into either importing some veneer, or learning how to vertically laminate my boards.
Has anyone had any experience with Beech veneer. It is availible, but only in thin strips which need to be taped together. Would this be a problem with a crossply and a fibreglass skin?
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